作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學者、歷史學家、語言學家和翻譯家，以他關于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂

Chapter 2

Tastes and Smells of the City

城市的味道和氣息

Constantinople and its environs

君士坦丁堡及其周邊地區(qū)

The 'New Rome' was set in a landscape of unrivalled beauty. It lay at the meeting place of two continents, as we are reminded in reading an early Byzantine poet's appreciation of a palace on the shores of the Bosporus, just north of the city:

Where the land is cut in two by the winding channel whose shores open the way to the sea, our divine emperor erected this palace for his most illustrious consort Sophia. oh far-ruling Rome, thou lookest from Europe on a prospect in Asia the beauty of which is worthy of thee.

? ? ? ? ? “新羅馬”位于無與倫比的美景中。它位于兩大洲的交匯處，正如我們在閱讀一位早期拜占庭詩人對博斯普魯斯海峽沿岸一座宮殿的欣賞時所提及的那樣，就在城市的北部：

? ? ? ? ? 蜿蜒的河道將陸地一分為二，河道的海岸通向大海，我們神圣的皇帝為他最顯赫的妃子索菲亞建造了這座宮殿。噢，遙遠的羅馬，你從歐洲看亞洲的前景，其美麗值得你。

There were many nearby beauty spots to delight those who lived in Constantinople. Liutprand, on his second mission, was summoned to a meeting with the emperor Nicephorus eis Pegas 'at the Springs', half a mile west of the city, where there was a monastery, a palace and a royal park running down to the shore of the Sea of Marmara. For Liutprand it was an uncomfortable occasion (he had a headache and hadn't wanted to go) but most visitors found this a beautiful place. Russian pilgrims, in 1390 and after, made special excursions to these famous springs, which were sacred to the Virgin. They were told of the miraculous little fish that swam in those healing waters, fish that also figure in later legends - according to which, they had been intended for a monk's lunch: he dropped them into the pool in shock when told of the capture of Constantinople, and their descendants lived there ever Since.

? ? ? ? ? 附近有許多美麗的景點，讓居住在君士坦丁堡的人們感到高興。柳特普朗在他的第二次任務中被傳喚到在城市以西半英里處的斯普林斯，在那與皇帝尼斯福魯斯·艾斯·佩加斯會面，那里有一座修道院、一座宮殿和一座皇家公園，一直延伸到海岸邊，那里是馬爾馬拉海。對于柳特普蘭來說，這是一個不舒服的場合（他頭疼，不想去），但大多數(shù)游客都覺得這是一個美麗的地方。1390 年及之后的俄羅斯朝圣者專門游覽了這些著名的溫泉，這些溫泉對圣母來說是神圣的。他們被告知在那些治愈的水域中游泳的神奇小魚，這些魚也出現(xiàn)在后來的傳說中——據(jù)傳說，它們是為僧侶準備的午餐：當?shù)弥刻苟”け还ハ輹r，他震驚地把他們扔進了水池，他們的后代從此一直住在那里。

Fishermen brought their produce ashore daily to many small harbours near the City; the harbour of Region or Rygin, where you could buy grey mullet, was only a stone's throw from the 'Springs'. The enthusiasm for fish at Constantinople fully matched that at classical Athens, as we are reminded by an amusing exchange in the satirical squib Timarion. The hero, unexpectedly visiting Hades, is accosted by a resident:

? ? ? 'Welcome, newly-dead!' he said. 'Tell us the news among the living. How many mackerel do you get for an obol? Bonitoes? Tunnies? Picarels? What's the price of oil? Wine? Wheat, and all the rest of it? And I forgot the most important thing: how's the whitebait catch? I used to enjoy shopping for whitebait when I was alive - I liked it better than sea bass.'

? ? ? ? ? 漁民每天將他們的農產品帶到城市附近的許多小港口?？梢再I到灰鯔魚的Region或Rygin 港口距離僅一箭之遙。 君士坦丁堡對魚的熱情與古典雅典完全一致，正如諷刺的啞炮蒂馬里昂的有趣交流提醒我們的那樣。英雄出人意料地拜訪了哈迪斯，他被一位居民搭訕：

? ? ? ? ? “歡迎，新死的！” 他說。 '告訴我們在生者中的消息。 一個obol你能得到多少鯖魚？鰹魚？金槍魚？皮卡雷爾？油的價格是多少？葡萄酒？小麥，以及所有其他的？我忘記了最重要的事情：銀魚抓得怎么樣？我活著的時候喜歡買銀魚——我喜歡它勝過鱸魚。

One of the royal gardens near Constantinople is allowed to speak for itself in a poem by Arabius: 'I am rich in waters, gardens, groves, vineyards, and the generous gifts of the neighbouring sea. Both fisherman and farmer offer me pleasing presents, from sea and land. Those who rest in me are soothed either by the song of birds or the sweet call of the ferryman.'! The poet allowed himself a smile as he thus characterized 'the sweet call of the ferryman', but he knew that he was only slightly embellishing the truth. The waters around Constantinople were crisscrossed by ferry services, an everyday essential for the suburbs and satellite cities of the great capital.

? ? ? ? ? 君士坦丁堡附近的一個皇家花園被允許在阿拉比烏斯的一首詩中為自己說話：“我擁有豐富的水域、花園、小樹林、葡萄園和鄰近海域的慷慨饋贈。漁夫和農民都為我提供了來自海洋和陸地的令人愉悅的禮物。那些在我心中安息的人，要么被鳥兒的歌聲，要么被擺渡人的甜蜜呼喚所撫慰！詩人微笑著形容“擺渡人的甜蜜呼喚”，但他知道自己只是在稍微修飾一下事實。君士坦丁堡周圍的水域縱橫交錯，渡輪服務是這座偉大首都的郊區(qū)和衛(wèi)星城市的日常必需物。

In its last years, Christian Constantinople is frequently said to have been a rather empty city, and for this reason more fruitful than the big cities of Western Europe. 'This city of Constantinople is made up of villages; there is much more open space than buildings,' reported Bertrandon de la Broquiere. Bertrandon, a Burgundian noble, travelled East for political reasons in 1432. His observation parallels that of Brocardus, titular Latin Archbishop of Smyrna, who wrote a manual for prospective Crusaders about a century earlier. Brocardus has to admit that Constantinople is a very big city (his readers would, after all, be familiar with earlier and impressive descriptions such as that of Geoffroi de Villehardouin) but he skilfully plays down the dangers.

? ? ? ? Although the city is large, only a modest number of people live there in relation to its size. Barely a third of the city is inhabited. The rest is made up of gardens or fields or vineyards or waste land. The population consists of fishermen, merchants, artisans and cultivators. The nobles are few in number: they are as weak as women and as fearful as Jews.

? ? ? ? ? 在其最后幾年，基督教君士坦丁堡經(jīng)常被認為是一個相當空曠的城市，因此比西歐的大城市更有成果?！熬刻苟”み@個城市是由村莊組成的”，Bertrandon de la Broquiere（貝特朗東·德拉布羅基埃）說，這里的開放空間比建筑物多得多。勃艮第貴族 Bertrandon 于 1432 年出于政治原因前往東方。他的觀察與有名的士麥那拉丁大主教 Brocardus 的觀察相似，后者在大約一個世紀前為未來的十字軍編寫了一本手冊。布羅卡杜斯不得不承認君士坦丁堡是一座非常大的城市（畢竟，他的讀者會熟悉Geoffroi de Villehardouin（貝特朗東·德拉布羅基埃）等早期令人印象深刻的描述），但他巧妙地淡化了危險。

The circuit of its great walls was so extensive that it is possible Constantinople always gave this impression to the open-minded traveller. Those walls may always have enclosed a fair proportion of market gardens and vineyards among the buildings. Earlier descriptions, however, suggest the opposite; the impression we get from them is of an overcrowded city.

? ? ? Constantinople itself is squalid and fetid and in many places afflicted by permanent darkness, for the wealthy overshadow the streets with buildings and leave these dirty, dark places to the poor and to travellers. There murders and robberies and other crimes of the night are committed. People live untouched by the law in this city, for all its rich men are bullies and many of its poor men are thieves. A criminal knows neither fear nor shame, for crime is not punished by law and never comes entirely to light.

? ? ? ? ? 其長城的環(huán)路如此廣泛，以至于君士坦丁堡可能總是給思想開放的旅行者留下這種印象。這些墻壁可能總是將相當比例的市場花園和葡萄園包圍在建筑物中。然而，較早的描述表明相反。我們從他們那里得到的印象是一個人滿為患的城市。

? ? ? ? ? 君士坦丁堡本身又臟又臭，在許多地方都受到永久黑暗的折磨，因為富人用建筑物遮蔽了街道，把這些骯臟、黑暗的地方留給了窮人和旅行者。那里有謀殺、搶劫和其他夜間犯罪。這座城市的人們生活在法律面前，因為那里的富人都是惡霸，許多窮人都是小偷。一個罪犯既不怕也不知道羞恥，因為犯罪不受法律懲罰，也永遠不會完全暴露出來。

Odo's view of the street crime of Constantinople was not universally shared. Liutprand of Cremona, in his early Antapodosis, tells a lively (though unlikely) story of how the emperor Leo VI the Wise had been caught out by his own excellent night watch arrangements and, as a result, had spent a night in prison. Liutprand himself, on the later visit reported in his Embassy, had cause to regret the efficiency of Constantinople's state security.

? ? ? Guards were placed to prevent myself and my people from leaving my house. Any poor people of Latin speech who came asking charity were seized and killed or imprisoned. My Greek interpreter was not allowed to go out, even to buy food. We had to send the cook, who did not know Greek and could only speak to the shopkeeper with signs or nods: he paid four nummi for supplies that the interpreter had bought for one. If any friends sent spices, loaves of bread, wine, or fruit, the guards smashed the gifts on to the ground and drove the messengers away with their fists.

? ? ? ? ? 奧多對君士坦丁堡街頭犯罪的看法并未得到普遍認同?？死啄{的柳特普蘭德在他早期的 Antapodosis 中講述了一個生動（盡管不太可能）的故事，即智者利奧六世如何被自己出色的守夜安排所逮捕，并因此在監(jiān)獄中度過了一夜。柳特普蘭德本人在其大使館報告的訪問中，有理由對君士坦丁堡國家安全的效率感到遺憾。

? ? ? ? ? 警衛(wèi)被安置在我的房前，以防止我和我的人離開房子。任何來請求施舍的說著拉丁語的窮人都被抓獲、殺害或監(jiān)禁。我的希臘翻譯不被允許外出，甚至連買食物也不被允許。我們不得不派廚師來，他不懂希臘語，只能用手勢或點頭與店主交談：他花了四塊錢買了口譯員買的東西。如果有朋友送來香料、面包、酒或水果，守衛(wèi)就會把禮物砸在地上，用拳頭把他們趕走。

未完待續(xù)！