作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學(xué)者、歷史學(xué)家、語言學(xué)家和翻譯家，以他關(guān)于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂?

Meat, eggs, milk and cheese

肉、雞蛋、牛奶和奶酪

?Once I trod the Roman road in hunger and thirst. On that road a smell of roast meat assailed my nostrils, stirred up my entrails, reawoke my hunger. I followed the smell and landed in a butcher's shop, and found roast meat turning on a big spit. I began to sweettalk the shop-woman:

? ? ? 'Mistress, lady, madame fa charcutiere, honoured helpmeet of the master-butcher, give me a little offal, a tiny bit of udder, a slice of your generous spitted meat, a goaty slice from the tough side, the skinny side, the lean side ...

? ? ? ?I saw the lovely woman; I saw the lovely meat; I did not know that my attempt was doomed and my arts fruitless; I did not know that she was planning treachery. She took me by the hand, she fetched me a stool, she laid a table for me and said,

? ? ? 'Sit down, effendi, I sit down, bachelor of law, sit down, doctor of philosophy ... '

? ? ? ? ? 有一次，我在饑渴中走在羅馬路上。在路上，一股烤肉的味道撲鼻而來，攪動著我的內(nèi)臟，喚醒了我的饑餓感。我順著氣味來到一家肉店，發(fā)現(xiàn)烤肉冒出香氣。我開始和女店員交談：

? ? ? ? ? “女主人，女士，熟肉小姐，屠夫大師的榮幸助手，給我一點內(nèi)臟，一點乳扇，一片你慷慨施舍的肉，一塊山羊肉，從堅硬的一面，瘦的一面， 瘦邊...

? ? ? ? ? ?我看見了那個可愛的女人； 我看到了可愛的肉； 我不知道我的嘗試注定要失敗，我的藝術(shù)沒有結(jié)果； 我不知道她在策劃什么。 她拉著我的手，給我拿來一張凳子，給我擺了一張桌子，然后說：

? ? ? ? ? ?“坐下，effendi，我坐下，法學(xué)士，坐下，哲學(xué)博士……”

She laid the table for me, she gave me a napkin, she set me a plate laden with sliced meat. I sent down the first mouthful, and the second, and the third, and I was just bending my head to cut a fourth piece when suddenly (where could she have hidden the smelly, shitty missile?) she threw a sausage at my head and said,

? ? ? ‘Eat that, handsome master, bachelor of law, master of philosophy, sluicer of offal and entrails! Why don't you drink your own ink rather than eat our humble meat?’

? ? ? ? ? 她為我鋪好桌子，遞給我一張餐巾紙，給我端了一個裝滿肉片的盤子。 我吃了第一口，第二口，第三口，我正低著頭切第四塊，突然（她把臭臭的東西藏在哪里？）她把一根香腸扔到我的頭上，然后說，

? ? ? ? ? ?‘吃那個，英俊的大師，法律學(xué)士，哲學(xué)大師，內(nèi)臟和內(nèi)臟的清理者！ 你為什么不喝你自己的墨水而不是吃我們不起眼的肉呢？

We have seen the anxiety expressed in the Book of the Eparch that the butchers of Constantinople should get fresh meat at the best price. We shall see the variety of domesticated animals that came to be sold, some of them from great distances, at the annual fairs at Constantinople and Thessalonica. The author of the fourth Prodromic Poem gives us the consumer's perspective, and tells us that the hot meat shops of the city already offered slices of meat roasting on a spit - something not far different from souvlaki - to those who could face the shopkeeper's biting wit.

? ? ? ? ? 我們已經(jīng)看到《紀元之書》中表達的焦慮，即君士坦丁堡的屠夫應(yīng)該以最優(yōu)惠的價格獲得新鮮肉類。 我們將在君士坦丁堡和塞薩洛尼卡的年度集市上看到出售的各種馴養(yǎng)動物，其中一些來自很遠的地方。 第四首《前奏詩》的作者給了我們消費者的視角，告訴我們城里的熱肉店已經(jīng)為那些可能面對店主尖酸刻薄的人提供了烤肉片——這和烤肉串沒什么兩樣。 .

The dietary texts show that ox, buffalo, goat, sheep and pig all provided meat for Constantino po Ii tans to eat. They show also that finer distinctions were normally made - veal is distinguished from beef; male and female goat are distinguished from one another (female is nearly always preferred, and male was often considered too rank to eat) and from kid. In one text, the best mutton or lamb is said to come from one-year-old castrated males. By contrast, the dietary texts say rather little about everyday things like sausages, which seem to belong to less serious literature such as popular verse and saints' lives. We have to learn the Greek for a 'string of sausages', seira salsikion, from the Lift of St Simeon Salos: in one of the more engaging anecdotes of this lively life, the saint is seen 'taking a string of sausages around his neck, and holding mustard in his left hand, and so dipping them and eating them'. Yes, the dietary texts do confirm that mustard went well with pork. This meat 'produces an excess of moisture and phlegm in the body, but its moisture is neutralized' if eaten with mustard. Another meat preparation that was familiar in Constantinople, yet seldom occurs in the texts, is apokti, cured dried meat. This happens to be mentioned in the meticulous Book of Ceremonies of Constantine Porphyrogennetus. Offal is catalogued assiduously by the dietary authors; head, brain, bone marrow, lung, liver and heart are all evaluated and are in general classed as nourishing, especially liver. Brain, however, is 'emetic' (some modern readers might agree) and should therefore be eaten with pepper or mustard. Even spleen is listed, though not favoured.

? ? ? ? ? 飲食文本顯示，牛、水牛、山羊、綿羊和豬都是君士坦丁·波伊坦人菜譜上的肉類。這表明，人們通常會做出更精細的區(qū)分——小牛肉與牛肉有區(qū)別；公山羊和母山羊是有區(qū)別的（母山羊幾乎總是首選，公山羊經(jīng)常被認為等級太高而不能吃）和小山羊。在一篇文章中，據(jù)說最好的羊肉或羊肉來自一歲大的閹割公羊。 相比之下，飲食文本很少提及香腸等日常用品，它們似乎屬于不太嚴肅的文學(xué)作品，例如流行詩歌和圣徒的生活。我們必須從圣西蒙薩洛斯的電梯中學(xué)習(xí)希臘語中的“一串香腸”，seira salsikion：在這個生動的生活中更引人入勝的軼事之一中，可以看到圣人“將一串香腸掛在脖子上”，左手拿著芥末，然后蘸著吃?！?/span> 是的，飲食文本確實證實芥末與豬肉很相配。 如果與芥末一起食用，這種肉“會在體內(nèi)產(chǎn)生過多的水分和痰液，但它的水分會被中和”。另一種在君士坦丁堡很熟悉但很少出現(xiàn)在文本中的肉類制備方法是 apokti，即腌制的干肉。 這恰好在君士坦丁·波菲羅根圖斯細致入微的禮儀書中提到。飲食作者對內(nèi)臟進行了認真的分類； 頭、腦、骨髓、肺、肝、心都評價，一般歸為滋補，尤其是肝。然而，大腦是“具有催吐性的”（一些現(xiàn)代讀者可能會同意），因此應(yīng)該與胡椒或芥末一起食用。甚至脾臟也被列出，雖然不受歡迎。

Game animals eaten at Constantinople included the deer of Europe and the gazelles of Asia Minor; wild goats, wild boars and even bears from the Greek and Balkan Mountains; and, perhaps most commonly, hare. Rabbit, however, was at this date still unfamiliar east of Italy. There were also wild asses, the onagroi of Asia Minor and the Levant, though the ungrateful bishop Liutprand was not impressed by 'what they claim to be wild asses" - indeed, the donkey meat proudly served at the Palace came from a herd long maintained in an imperial hunting park and therefore, in the truest sense, not wild at all.

? ? ? ? ? 在君士坦丁堡，吃的獵物包括歐洲的鹿和小亞細亞的瞪羚；來自希臘和巴爾干山脈的野山羊、野豬甚至熊；而且，最常見的是野兔。然而，兔子在這個時期仍然不屬于意大利東部。還有野驢，小亞細亞和黎凡特的野驢，雖然忘恩負義的主教柳特普蘭德對“他們自稱是野驢”并沒有留下深刻的印象——事實上，在皇宮自豪地供應(yīng)的驢肉來自長期維持的一個皇家狩獵公園里的牛群，因此，從最真實的意義上說，這一點也不野生。

Chickens were the commonest of the birds that Byzantines ate. This is the best and lightest of all meats, according to one of the dietary writers, and 'chicken soup cures coldness in the intestines' (for dietary opinions on meat see especially text 2 section viii). Also familiar were duck, goose, quail, pigeon, partridge, peafowl, crane, thrush and many other smaller birds. The eggs of hens, ducks, geese, partridges, peahens and those of small birds are separately evaluated from a dietary point of view. Eggs were the basis of a recipe for a souffle or mousse, incorporating minced chicken and sometimes scallops, which seems to have been in use for several centuries.

? ? ? ? ? 雞是拜占庭人吃的最常見的禽類。根據(jù)一位飲食作家的說法，這是所有肉類中最好、最清淡的，而且“雞湯可以治腸胃寒”（有關(guān)肉類的飲食意見，請參見第 2 節(jié)第 vii 節(jié)）。 同樣熟悉的還有鴨子、鵝、鵪鶉、鴿子、鷓鴣、孔雀、鶴、畫眉和許多其他較小的鳥類。從飲食的角度對母雞、鴨子、鵝、鷓鴣、孔雀和小型鳥類的蛋進行單獨評估。雞蛋是蛋奶酥或慕斯配方的基礎(chǔ)，其中加入了碎雞肉，有時還有扇貝，這似乎已經(jīng)使用了幾個世紀。

Neither milk nor butter had been favoured foods in the classical world. In fact both were commonly seen as typical of wild northern barbarians; civilized Greeks and Romans had turned their milk into cheese. Byzantines were just as enthusiastic about cheese, which some already called prosphagion, the relish par excellence. I Breaking with tradition, however, Byzantine dieticians are prepared to look afresh at milk. Milk is the first food dealt with, under the heading 'Foods that produce good humours', in the handbook 'Humoral and Dietary Qualities of Foods' translated in chapter 6:

? ? ? ?Of all foods the one that is most productive of good humours IS best quality milk, particularly from healthy animals, and if drunk immediately after milking. It should be taken before any food or drink, and nothing else should be eaten until it has been digested and passed through. If even a little of anything else is mixed with it, it goes to decay and so does the milk. A good way is to drink it early in the morning, freshly milked, to eat nothing with it, and to walk quietly about. Initially it moves the bowels, but then gives nourishment; it is not itself excreted but settles the digestion (text 3 section i).

? ? ? ? ? 在古典世界中，牛奶和黃油都不是最受歡迎的食物。 事實上，兩者都被普遍視為北方野蠻人的典型特征。文明的希臘人和羅馬人把他們的牛奶變成了奶酪。 拜占庭人同樣對奶酪充滿熱情，有些人已經(jīng)將其稱為 prophagion，這是一種出類拔萃的美味。 然而，拜占庭營養(yǎng)師打破傳統(tǒng)，準備重新審視牛奶。 在第 6 章翻譯的《食物的體液和膳食質(zhì)量》手冊中，牛奶是第一個涉及到的食物，標題為“產(chǎn)生良好幽默感的食物”：

? ? ? ? ? 在所有食物中，最能產(chǎn)生好心情的一種是最優(yōu)質(zhì)的牛奶，尤其是來自健康動物的牛奶，如果在擠奶后立即飲用。 它應(yīng)該在任何食物或飲料之前服用，在它被消化和通過之前不要吃其他東西。 哪怕是一點點別的東西混進去，它也會腐爛，牛奶也會腐爛。 一個好方法是一大早喝新鮮擠奶，不吃任何東西，然后安靜地走動。 最初它會移動腸道，但隨后會提供營養(yǎng)；它本身不變成排泄，但會消化（文本 3 第 i 節(jié)）。

Milk also has an important place, alongside butter and (of course) cheese, in the handbook 'Categories of Foods'. Milk is 'cold and moist'; butter is moist and 'suited to those with a rather hot temperament ... Young cheese without salt is nourishing and good to eat ... other cheeses are all bad, except those made of buttermilk' (text 2 section x). Bad they may have been, but they were eaten. The following quick survey of cheesemaking techniques is attributed to the late Roman author Berytius. Evidently abridged from the now-lost original, it forms part of the compilation on farming, Geoponica, which was put together at the orders of the emperor Constantine Porphyrogennetus in tenth-century Constantinople - and was probably chosen as being still relevant to contemporary practice.

? ? ? Most people curdle cheese using what some call juice and others rennet; the best is from kids. Roast salt also curdles milk, and the fig tree's sap and green shoots and leaves, and the hairy inedible parts of globe artichokes, and pepper, and the rough lining of the stomach of the domestic hen, found in its droppings ... Milk keeps for 3 days if, the day before you transport it, you pour it into a jar, boil it, and transfer it into another, stirring it with a fennel stalk or reed while it cools. If you sprinkle a little salt into the cheese it stays 'fresh' for longer, dipped in warm honey, or warm water with safflower seed. Cheese keeps if washed in drinking water and dried in the sun and put up in earthenware with savory or thyme, the cheeses kept apart from one another so far as possible, then sweet vinegar or oxymeli poured over until the liquid fills the gaps and covers them. Some keep cheeses in sea water. Cheese keeps white in brine. Harder and sharper-tasting if smoked. All cheese seems to last longer if kept in [dried] pulse, especially grass-pea or pea. If it is harsh or bitter from age it is to be soaked in raw barley meal (i.e., milled from unparched barley) and water, and the scum removed.

? ? ? ? ? 在“食品類別”手冊中，除了黃油和（當然）奶酪之外，牛奶也占有重要地位。 牛奶“又冷又濕”； 黃油是濕潤的，“適合那些性情比較熱的人……沒有鹽的新鮮奶酪營養(yǎng)豐富，很好吃……其他奶酪都不好，除了酪乳制成的奶酪”（文本 2 第 x 節(jié)）。它們可能很糟糕，但它們還是被吃掉了。 以下對奶酪制作技術(shù)的快速調(diào)查歸功于已故的羅馬作家 Berytius。 它顯然是從現(xiàn)已丟失的原版中刪節(jié)的，它構(gòu)成了農(nóng)業(yè)匯編的一部分，Geoponica，它是在十世紀君士坦丁堡的君士坦丁·波菲羅根塔斯皇帝的命令下整理的——可能被選為仍然與當代實踐相關(guān)。

? ? ? ? ? 大多數(shù)人用一些人稱之為果汁和其他的凝乳酶來凝乳酪?？钧}還能凝結(jié)牛奶、無花果樹的汁液、嫩芽和葉子、洋薊、胡椒的毛茸茸的不可食用部分，以及家母雞肚子的粗糙內(nèi)壁...... 牛奶可以保存 3 天，如果在運輸前一天將其倒入一個罐子中，煮沸，然后轉(zhuǎn)移到另一個罐子中，冷卻時用茴香莖或蘆葦攪拌。 如果你在奶酪中撒一點鹽，它會保持“新鮮”更長時間，蘸上溫蜂蜜，或加了紅花籽的溫水。奶酪如果在飲用水中清洗并在陽光下曬干，然后放在帶有咸味或百里香的陶器中，那么奶酪會盡可能地分開。緊接著倒入甜醋或羥甲基醋，直到液體填滿縫隙并覆蓋它們。有些人將奶酪放在海水中。奶酪在鹽水中保持白色。 如果將其熏制，味道會更濃烈。 如果保存在[干]豌豆中，所有奶酪似乎都可以保存更長時間，尤其是草豌豆。如果它因陳年而變得粗糙或苦澀，則將其浸泡在生大麥粉（即從未干燥的大麥碾磨而成）和水中，然后去除浮渣。

Athotyro, a type of cheese, is mentioned but not described in the third Prodromic Poem. Adamantios Korais, whose commentary on the Prodromic Poems was published in 1828, says that in his time athotyro was a speciality of Paros and Antiparos. The name denotes a whey cheese, and probably it always did. In some parts of Greece a(n)thotyro is made to be eaten fresh; elsewhere, for example on Lesbos and at Iraklio, it is a hard, dried, blue-rind cheese. The way they do it on Lesbos is reported by Diane Kochilas:

? ? ? Anthotyro Lesvou: These are the hard or semihard, blue-rind, fezshaped, aged whey cheeses made from sheep's milk and traditionally used for grating ... Local custom dictates that the cheese, once airdried, be dried even further in a low oven. The cheese ages for anywhere from two months to a year. When it is just a few months old, it is still soft enough to be eaten as a table cheese, and although this is not generally the tradition, it is delicious and buttery.

? ? ? ? ? Ahotyro 是一種奶酪，在第三首前奏詩中被提及但未描述。Adamantios Korais（阿達曼提歐斯·科萊），他對前奏詩的評論發(fā)表于 1828 年，他說在他那個時代，athotyro 是帕羅斯和安提帕羅斯的特產(chǎn)。這個名字表示乳清奶酪，可能一直都是這樣。在希臘的某些地方，a(n)thotyro 被制成新鮮食用； 在其他地方，例如在萊斯博斯島和伊拉克利奧，它是一種堅硬的、干燥的藍皮奶酪。黛安·科奇拉斯 報道了他們在萊斯博斯島的做法：

? ? ? ? ? 萊斯沃斯島的安托蒂羅：這些是硬質(zhì)或半硬質(zhì)、藍皮、fez 形、陳年乳清干酪，由羊奶制成，傳統(tǒng)上用于磨碎……當?shù)亓?xí)俗規(guī)定，干酪一旦風干，就要在低烤箱中進一步烘干。 奶酪的陳化時間從兩個月到一年不等。 當它只有幾個月大的時候，它仍然足夠柔軟，可以作為餐桌奶酪食用，雖然這不是一般的傳統(tǒng)，但它既美味又黃油。

未完待續(xù)！