漢服火起來了！“后浪們”為什么癡迷傳統(tǒng)服飾？丨夜聽雙語

圖文來自：中國日報雙語新聞?

特別聲明：本號本號除原創(chuàng)文章外，其余文章均為原作者觀點，發(fā)布主要是為了方便大家互相交流。

不知道你是否注意到了，近幾年，穿漢服的人越來越多了。

城市中心區(qū)有人穿著漢服逛街，景區(qū)有人穿著旅游，就連課堂上也不乏漢服的身影。

CNN、路透社等外媒紛紛報道了這一漢服熱。

Hanfu, meaning “Han clothing,” is based on the idea of donning costumes worn in bygone eras by China’s Han ethnic group. Some of the most popular styles are from the Ming, Song and Tang dynasties.?

漢服意為“漢族的服飾”，也就是穿過去的漢族服裝。漢服最流行的款式來自明朝、宋朝和唐朝。

圖源：網(wǎng)絡(luò)、中國裝束復(fù)原小組

About three-quarters of hanfu customers are between 16 and 24 years old.?Members of this generation often see it as a way to rediscover and engage with their country’s traditional culture.?

大約四分之三的漢服消費者年齡在16至24歲之間。這一代人經(jīng)常把漢服看作是重新發(fā)現(xiàn)和接觸中國傳統(tǒng)文化的一種方式。

漢服的樣式也非常多。它的主要元素包括腰帶、設(shè)計復(fù)雜的領(lǐng)子等等。

The main features of hanfu include collars, upper garments in the style of a skirt, jade ornaments and a sash, according to Wen Run, professor of textile design and industrial economics at Donghua University.?

東華大學(xué)紡織學(xué)院紡織品設(shè)計與產(chǎn)業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)系教師溫潤稱，漢服的主要特征包括領(lǐng)子、裙?fàn)钌弦?、玉飾和腰帶?/p>

Materials such as brocade and yarn, along with traditional craftwork, including embroidery, are also hallmarks of the attire.

織錦緞、紗線等材料，以及刺繡等傳統(tǒng)工藝也是漢服的標(biāo)志性特征。

圖源：中國裝束復(fù)原小組

CGTN的文章認(rèn)為，現(xiàn)代年輕人能從穿漢服中尋到傳統(tǒng)文化之美。

It has seen a resurgence in recent years, despite some initial public resistance. It's pretty exciting to see young Chinese people building up their self-confidence and developing their individuality to show the world what they love. For more Chinese, this dress code might become a good starting point to further explore the beauty of the country's traditions.

近年來，盡管最開始有反對的聲音，但漢服仍然流行了起來?？吹街袊贻p人樹立自信，發(fā)展個性，向世界展示他們的熱愛，這是頗令人興奮的事。對于更多的中國人來說，這一著裝可能會成為進(jìn)一步探索中國傳統(tǒng)之美的一個良好起點。

漢服的愛好者們表達(dá)自己喜愛的方式不盡相同，有人寫了一本書，有人上課也穿。愛好者之間會互稱“同袍”。

Yang Na is one of those hanfu enthusiasts who have been dedicated to the revival of the costume for over a decade. As a media professional, she wears?hanfu, talks about it and has even written a book about it, titled "Hanfu Returns."?

楊娜是一位漢服愛好者，她致力于漢服的復(fù)興已經(jīng)超過十年。作為一名媒體從業(yè)人士，她穿漢服，聊漢服，甚至還寫過一本書，書名是《漢服歸來》。

Song Xuan, a student from Harbin, in northeast China's Heilongjiang Province said, "hanfu is my daily outfit. In the summer, I wear it just like this. In the winter, I'll put a warm sweater inside and a down coat outside.

來自中國東北黑龍江省哈爾濱市的學(xué)生宋璇說：“漢服是我每天的行頭。夏天，我就這樣穿。冬天，我會在里面穿一件暖和的毛衣，外面穿件羽絨服。”

Hanfu enthusiasts refer to themselves online as?tongpao, which literally means wearing the same type of gown as a symbol of comradeship.

漢服愛好者在網(wǎng)上稱自己為“同袍”，這個詞字面意思是“穿著同一種衣服”，象征著同志情誼。

2020年3月，穿著漢服逛北京玉淵潭公園的女孩們 攝影：中國日報記者 鄒紅

漢服文化的興起也帶動了經(jīng)濟(jì)的發(fā)展。2018年的數(shù)據(jù)就顯示，當(dāng)年的漢服市場就已經(jīng)超過了10億元。有的漢服愛好者每年花在漢服上的開銷就有3000-5000元。

有趣的是，《長江七號》里的演員徐嬌自己創(chuàng)立的漢服店在2018年就賣出了價值1000萬的漢服。

徐嬌

There were more than 2 million hanfu enthusiasts in China in 2018, according to a survey by the market consultancy iMedia Research, a year-on-year rise of nearly 73 percent. The total value of the hanfu industry exceeded 1 billion yuan.

據(jù)市場咨詢機(jī)構(gòu)iMedia Research的調(diào)查，2018年中國漢服愛好者超過200萬人，同比增長近73%。漢服產(chǎn)業(yè)總產(chǎn)值超過10億元。

Deng, who also joined a hanfu club at her high school, said she spends about 3,000 yuan to 5,000 yuan ($432 to $720) on the attire every year.

高中時就加入漢服俱樂部的鄧小姐，說她每年在漢服上的花費大約在3000元到5000元（約合432到720美元）。

Hanfu company Zhiyuji, founded by actress Xu Jiao in 2016, did over RMB 10 million ($1.4 million) in sales in 2018.

由演員徐嬌于2016年創(chuàng)立的漢服公司在2018年銷售額就超過1000萬元人民幣（約合140萬美元）。

漢服的復(fù)興不僅是在中國，更是延伸到了國界之外。越來越多的外國友人也開始沉迷漢服。

As the main organizer of the association, Li Siting, president of the Hunan Hanfu Culture Promotion Association, often communicates with her counterparts from different places. Last November, she attended the 7th Chinese ritual and music conference in Wuhan, the capital of Hubei province, which was the first time she met overseas Chinese culture lovers from Japan, France, Argentina and other places.

湖南漢服文化促進(jìn)會會長李斯婷是協(xié)會的主要組織者，她經(jīng)常與各地同行交流。去年11月，她參加了在湖北省會武漢舉行的第七屆中華禮樂大會，這是她第一次見到來自日本、法國、阿根廷等海外地區(qū)的中華文化愛好者。

圖源：網(wǎng)絡(luò)

還有一位文化人物與漢服相關(guān)。他就是詞作者方文山。他牽頭發(fā)起了在浙江嘉興嘉善西塘鎮(zhèn)舉辦的漢服文化周。

圖源: Simon Song

“Hanfu is the perfect bridge for young people to connect with Chinese culture and identity,” said Fang Wenshan, a lyricist who started the?Hanfu Culture Week in Xitang seven years ago.

七年前在西塘創(chuàng)辦漢服文化周的作詞家方文山說：“漢服是年輕人與中國文化以及中國身份聯(lián)系的完美橋梁?！?/p>

漢服熱并不是沒有爭議。其中之一就是到底該叫“漢服”還是“華服”——后者據(jù)稱更能涵蓋“中國傳統(tǒng)服裝”這一范圍。

不過，正如CGTN的文章里說到的，漢服的興起縱使伴隨爭議，但也的確為現(xiàn)代街頭增添了一抹傳統(tǒng)的亮色。

圖源：漢服薈

After 16 years of development from the so-called "fantastical dress" to daily attire,?hanfu has been through quite the change in status.

經(jīng)過16年的發(fā)展，漢服從所謂的“奇裝異服”到日常著裝，經(jīng)歷了相當(dāng)大的地位變化。

Whatever the controversies behind the new trend, some traditional beauty on modern streets will indeed add a bit of vitality and diversity to urban life.?

不管這股新潮流背后有什么爭議，現(xiàn)代街道上出現(xiàn)一些傳統(tǒng)美確實會給城市生活增添一點活力和多樣性。

Note

bygone /?ba?ɡ??n/ adj 很久以前的；以往的

sash /s??/ n 腰帶；飾帶

brocade /br??ke?d/ n 織錦緞

yarn /jɑ?rn/ n 紗線

embroidery /?m?br??d?ri/ n 繡花；刺繡圖案；刺繡品

hallmark /?h??lmɑ?rk/ n 特征；特點