作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達(dá)爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學(xué)者、歷史學(xué)家、語言學(xué)家和翻譯家，以他關(guān)于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達(dá)爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂

Some Byzantine spices

一些拜占庭香料

Saffron was grown in several Mediterranean localities, though its historic origin was said to be the limestone depression of Corycus near the coast of Cilicia (south-eastern Turkey). The expansion of Islam eventually brought into Muslim control not only Cilicia but also the historic plantations of saffron in Iran and in Kashmir; the Byzantine Empire, however, continued to demand saffron, which was henceforth imported. The reader will learn in chapter 6 that saffron 'is cold and dry, is bad for the stomach, causes pain and heaviness in the head, is soporific, and cheers the heart' (text 2 section vii). With such a range of powers it will not be in everyone's daily diet but must be available to the careful physician to prescribe whenever a heart might need cheering.

? ? ? ? ? 藏紅花生長在地中海的幾個地區(qū)，據(jù)說它起源于西里西亞（土耳其東南部）海岸附近的科里庫斯的石灰?guī)r洼地。伊斯蘭教的擴(kuò)張，最終不僅讓穆斯林控制了西里西亞，而且還控制了伊朗和克什米爾歷史悠久的藏紅花種植園；然而，拜占庭帝國一直需求藏紅花，藏紅花因此被其常年進(jìn)口。讀者將在第 6 章中了解到藏紅花“性寒、干燥、對胃不利、導(dǎo)致頭部疼痛和沉重、催眠、振奮人心”等功效（文本 2 第 vii 節(jié)）。 藏紅花擁有如此廣泛的功效，這使得它不會出現(xiàn)在每個人的日常飲食中，所以必須讓細(xì)心的醫(yī)生在病人急需“振奮”心臟時開出處方。

Mastic, frequently used in baking bread and cakes in Constantinople, is produced in only one location in the world, the island of 'Chios, where the Saint and Martyr Isidore is buried. This island produces mastic, good wine and all kinds of fruits,' asserts the Russian traveller Daniel. Chios no doubt continued to manufacture and export medicinal mastic oil and mastic wine, as it had done in Roman times; but a large proportion of the annual production of mastic was probably exported from Chios in pure form, to be used in cookery and to be chewed, for mastic is the original, natural and health-giving chewing-gum of the Mediterranean world. Chios fell to Genoa in the fourteenth century, and mastic then became a staple of the Genoese economy. One of the impulses for Christopher Columbus's exploration was the hope of discovering a new source of mastic, a hope that was fated to be disappointed. Nowadays mastic ouzo and liqueur, successors to the old medicinal products, are still produced on the island and remain a favourite with discriminating drinkers in Greece. Some Greeks still like the flavour of mastic in toothpaste and chewing gum, but peppermint and spearmint, heavily sweetened, have tended to supplant it - a bad thing for dental health.

? ? ? ? ? 君士坦丁堡經(jīng)常用于烘烤面包和蛋糕的乳香，僅在世界上的一個地方生產(chǎn)，即圣徒伊西多爾 (Saint and Martyr Isidore) 埋葬的希俄斯島。這個島出產(chǎn)乳香、優(yōu)質(zhì)葡萄酒和各種水果，俄羅斯旅行者丹尼爾斷言。毫無疑問，希俄斯繼續(xù)生產(chǎn)和出口藥用乳香油和乳香酒，就像在羅馬時代所做的那樣。但乳香年產(chǎn)量的很大一部分可能是從希俄斯以純凈的形式出口的，用于烹飪和食用，因?yàn)槿橄闶堑刂泻Ｊ澜缭?、天然和有益健康的口香糖。希俄斯?14 世紀(jì)落入熱那亞手中，然后乳香成為熱那亞經(jīng)濟(jì)的主要產(chǎn)品?？死锼雇懈ァじ鐐惒继剿鞯膭恿χ皇窍Ｍl(fā)現(xiàn)一種新的乳香源，但這種希望注定要落空。如今，作為舊藥材的繼承者的乳香茴香酒和利口酒仍然在島上生產(chǎn)，并且仍然是希臘挑剔的飲酒者的最愛。一些希臘人仍然喜歡牙膏和口香糖中乳香的味道，但重度甜味的薄荷和留蘭香往往會取代它——這對牙齒健康不利。

A third typically Byzantine aroma is that of storax, recommended by Hierophilus the Sophist (it must be the best storax, of course) in a 'dry soup' required for reasons of humoral theory to be taken in January.' The pilgrim Daniel was told of the storax harvest in southwestern Asia Minor and describes it with some admixture of fantasy.

? ? ? From Samos to Rhodes it is 200 versts, and from Rhodes to Macrie 60. This last town, and the country round as far as Myra, produces black incense [some MSS. red] and benzoin. This is how it comes: it runs from a tree like a sort of pith, and is collected with an iron blade. The tree is called zygia and resembles alder. Another small tree, resembling the aspen and called raka [some MSS. stourika, stiouriaka, i.e., storax] is gnawed under the bark by a fat worm, a sort of big caterpillar. What it has gnawed, resembling wheat bran, falls from the tree and collects on the ground like the resin of cherry trees. It is collected, mixed with the product of the first tree, and cooked together in a cauldron. That is how they prepare the benzoin incense, which is sold to merchants in skins.

? ? ? ? ? 第三種典型的拜占庭香氣是 storax，由智者 Hierophilus 推薦（當(dāng)然，它必須是最好的 storax）在“干湯”中，因?yàn)轶w液理論的原因需要在一月份服用。 朝圣者丹尼爾被告知在小亞細(xì)亞西南部收獲了 storax，并用一些幻想來描述它。

? ? ? ? ? 從薩摩斯到羅得島是 200 俄里，從羅得島到麥克里是 60 俄里。這最后一個城鎮(zhèn)，以及遠(yuǎn)至邁拉的鄉(xiāng)村，都生產(chǎn)黑香 [一些 MSS。紅色]和安息香。 它是這樣來的：它像一種髓一樣從樹上跑出來，用鐵刀片收集。 這棵樹被稱為zygia，類似于榿木。 另一種類似白楊的小樹，叫做 raka [一些 MSS。 stourika, stiouriaka, i.e., storax] 在樹皮下被一條肥蟲啃咬，一種大毛蟲。它咬過的東西，像麥麩一樣，從樹上掉下來，像櫻桃樹的樹脂一樣聚集在地上。它被收集起來，與第一棵樹的產(chǎn)物混合，并在大鍋中一起煮熟。他們就是這樣準(zhǔn)備安息香的，然后用皮子賣給商人的。

Like these three, balsam of Mecca, the resin of Commiphora Opobalsamum, was also produced within Byzantine frontiers - but only down to the time of the earliest Islamic conquests, in the seventh century. This is because, although it is native to southern Arabia, there had been plantations of the precious tree in Egypt and in Palestine, the latter very ancient and associated in legend with the Queen of Sheba's visit to Solomon. Palestine, in fact, became the main economic source of balsam of Mecca to the Roman Empire. Pierre Belon, the last recorded observer of the manufacture of fish sauce in Constantinople, was also the last person who saw balsam growing at 'Materea' (al-Matariyah) near Cairo. Merchants told him that this was transplanted and maintained at Cairo at great cost and trouble, and that the ordinary trade balsam all came from Arabia - which is evidence that by his time the balsam groves of Palestine were a thing of the past. Perhaps they were finally ruined by the Crusades. However, that may be, balsam of Mecca came to Constantinople from Muslim territory after the seventh century, which explains why the Book of the Eparch, around 895, refers to balsam under its Arabic name barzen, which was evidently by then the normal trade term, instead of the classical Greek balsamon. The latter word certainly remained familiar, because of its use in the Bible, but eventually ceased to have a specific everyday meanimg.

? ? ? ? ? 像這三種香脂一樣，麥加香脂，無花果的樹脂，也在拜占庭邊境內(nèi)生產(chǎn)——但直到最早的伊斯蘭征服時期（在七世紀(jì)）。這是因?yàn)椋m然它原產(chǎn)于阿拉伯南部，但也在埃及和巴勒斯坦種植了這種珍貴的樹，后者非常古老，傳說與示巴女王訪問所羅門有關(guān)。事實(shí)上，巴勒斯坦成為羅馬帝國麥加香脂的主要經(jīng)濟(jì)來源。皮埃爾·貝?。≒ierre Belon）是君士坦丁堡最后一位有記錄的魚露生產(chǎn)觀察員，也是最后一位在開羅附近的“Materea”（al-Matariyah）看到香脂生長的人。商人告訴他，這是在開羅移植和維護(hù)的，其付出了（遇到）巨大的代價與麻煩，而普通的貿(mào)易香脂都來自阿拉伯——這證明了在他那個時代，巴勒斯坦的香脂樹已經(jīng)存在。也許他們最終被十字軍東征摧毀了。然而，很有可能是，麥加的香脂在七世紀(jì)之后從msl領(lǐng)土來到君士坦丁堡，這就解釋了為什么在 895 年左右的《大紀(jì)元》以阿拉伯語?barzen 來指代香脂，這顯然是當(dāng)時的正常貿(mào)易術(shù)語，而不是古典的希臘香脂。后一個詞當(dāng)然很熟悉，因?yàn)樗谑ソ?jīng)中使用，但最終不再具有特定的日常含義。

Sugar, ginger and sandalwood came to the Byzantine Empire from India, though their original habitats were much further east. Spikenard, apparently a very popular aromatic in Constantinople, also came from India, aloeswood from south-east Asia. Nutmeg, mace and cloves came from the far-off Spice Islands of eastern Indonesia, where no Byzantine - so far as we know - ever went. Cinnamon came from Sri Lanka or southern China: most likely, at least by the ninth century, supplies of cinnamon came from both places, since the Book of Ceremonies and Simeon Seth, both quoted above, recognize more than one quality. Nowadays the cinnamon of Sri Lanka, the inner bark of Cinnamomum zeylanicum, is universally recognized as the best.

? ? ? ? ? 糖、姜和檀香木從印度來到拜占庭帝國，盡管它們的原產(chǎn)地在更遠(yuǎn)的東部。 Spikenard，顯然是君士坦丁堡非常受歡迎的香料，也來自印度，來自東南亞的沉香木。肉豆蔻和丁香來自遙遠(yuǎn)的印度尼西亞東部香料群島，據(jù)我們所知，沒有拜占庭人去過那里。 肉桂來自斯里蘭卡或中國南部：很可能，至少到 9 世紀(jì)，肉桂供應(yīng)來自這兩個地方，因?yàn)樯厦嬉玫摹秲x式書》和西緬賽斯都承認(rèn)不止一種品質(zhì)。 如今，斯里蘭卡的肉桂，即肉桂的內(nèi)層樹皮，被公認(rèn)為是最好的。

Whatever may be said of the effect of possible monopolies, it remains the fact that all such spices as these were inevitably very rare and extremely costly. The slowness and the real and reputed dangers of travel, whether by land or by sea, ensured their extremely high price. They were commodities quite as valuable in their way as gold, silver and precious stones. It is not surprising that when Byzantine troops invaded Persia, in 626, spices had an important place among the booty that was taken.

? ? ? In the palace at Dastagerd the Roman soldiers found ... goods which had been left behind: aloes and aloeswood of seventy or eighty pounds; silk; so many linen shirts as to be beyond counting; sugar, ginger, and many other goods ... In these palaces they also found countless numbers of ostriches, antelopes, wild asses, peacocks and pheasants. Huge lions and tigers lived in Chosroes' hunting grounds.

? ? ? ? ? 無論如何評論對可能的壟斷所產(chǎn)生的影響，所有這些香料都非常稀有且極其價值，這仍然是一個事實(shí)。無論是陸路還是海路，旅行的緩慢和真實(shí)而著名的運(yùn)輸威脅確保了它們極高的價格。 它們是與黃金、白銀和寶石一樣有價值的商品。 毫不奇怪，當(dāng)拜占庭軍隊(duì)于 626 年入侵波斯時，香料在掠奪的戰(zhàn)利品中占有重要地位。

? ? ? ? ? 在達(dá)斯塔格德的宮殿里，羅馬士兵發(fā)現(xiàn)了……遺留下來的貨物：沉香和沉香木，重達(dá)七十或八十磅； 絲綢; 亞麻襯衫多得數(shù)不勝數(shù)； 糖，姜，還有很多其他的東西……在這些宮殿里，他們還發(fā)現(xiàn)了無數(shù)的鴕鳥、羚羊、野驢、孔雀和野雞。 巨大的獅子和老虎住在喬斯羅斯的狩獵場。

But prices are fixed by the interplay of supply and demand. Supply difficulties ensured that, if they were wanted at all, the price would be high. But why were they wanted? Why, for example, was it thought necessary to use cinnamon, pepper and sugar in cookery?

? ? ? ? ? 但是價格是由供求關(guān)系決定的。供應(yīng)困難確保了貨物價值，如果他們需要，貨物價格會很高。但是為什么需要它們？例如，為什么認(rèn)為有必要在烹飪中使用肉桂、胡椒和糖呢？

未完待續(xù)！