(書籍翻譯)拜占庭的味道:傳奇帝國的美食 (第二十九部分)


作者生平:
? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達(dá)爾比(Andrew Dalby)是一位古典學(xué)者、歷史學(xué)家、語言學(xué)家和翻譯家,以他關(guān)于食物史(尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國)的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達(dá)爾比的第一本美食書籍,獲得了 Runciman(朗西曼)獎(jiǎng),他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會(huì)年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium :The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會(huì)圖書館獲得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂?

[iv] Foods that are good to eat and strengthening
既好吃又使身體強(qiáng)壯的食物
?[8] Relatively astringent dates, [apples,] quinces, [green] olives, kolymbades, and even more so olives preserved in vinegar, astringent raisins, bunches of grapes put up in jars, walnuts with figs.
[Artichoke,] mustard, radish, boiled turnips [thoroughly cooked], cress, young shoots of butcher's broom, grape-hyacinth bulbs [which also serve as appetizer, capers].
Lemon peel taken as digestive.
Astringent wine.
Absinthe and aloes.
? ? ? ? ? ?[8] 相對(duì)較澀的棗子,[蘋果]榅桲,[綠]橄欖,kolymbades,保存在醋中的橄欖,澀葡萄干,放在罐子里的葡萄(可能是腌制的),核桃與無花果。
? ? ? ? ? ?[洋薊]、芥末、蘿卜、煮熟的蘿卜[徹底煮熟]、水芹、金雀花的嫩芽、葡萄藤球莖[也可作為開胃菜、辣椒]。
? ? ? ? ? ?檸檬皮可作為消化劑服用。
? ? ? ? ? ?澀酒。
? ? ? ? ? ?苦艾酒和蘆薈。

[v] Foods that are difficult to eat
很難吃的食物
[9] Beet, which causes stomach ache when too much is eaten.
Undercooked turnip is difficult to eat, but if well-cooked it is easy to eat.
Blite, orach unless eaten with vinegar, [fish sauce] and olive oil, [fenugreek,] sesame.
Cold milk gives acute pain to those whose bowels are in a cold condition; those in a hot condition it turns to smoke in the stomach.' It is harmful to those with fever.
Melons, if not fully ripe, fill up those who are choleric. Rather than breaking down, however, they are useful as an emetic, if eaten in quantity, as long as one of the foods that produce good humours is not eaten with them.
Brain is difficult to eat, and has an emetic effect, as does bone marrow. Black, astringent wine has a pleasant acidity and has an emetic effect, [whether it is young or mature.]
? ? ? ? ? [9] 甜菜,吃多了會(huì)引起胃痛。
? ? ? ? ? 未煮熟的蘿卜很難吃,但如果煮熟了就很好吃。
? ? ? ? ??Blite,orach,除非與醋、[魚露]和橄欖油、[葫蘆巴]、芝麻一起吃。
? ? ? ? ? 冷牛奶給那些胃寒的人帶來劇烈的疼痛;那些胃熱的人,牛奶會(huì)在胃里加劇疼痛。而且它對(duì)發(fā)燒的人有害。
? ? ? ? ? 瓜類,如果沒有完全成熟,吃了容易鬧心。不過,如果吃得多,它們反而可以作為催吐劑,只要不和產(chǎn)生好心情的食物一起吃就行。
? ? ? ? ? 腦子很難吃,而且有催吐性,骨髓也是如此。黑澀的葡萄酒具有令人愉快的酸度,不過也可能有催吐的作用,[無論它是青澀還是成熟的]。

[vi] Foods that break up residues and clear the digestion
能分解殘?jiān)?、幫助消化的食?/span>
[10] Barley, fenugreek, watermelon, sweet raisins, broad beans, chickpeas (especially black gram), capers (especially if eaten as a starter with honey vinegar or oil and vinegar), beet liquor and beet itself if eaten with mustard or vinegar, sorrel, grape-hyacinth bulbs, onions, garlic, [leeks, Levant garlic]. These, boiled two or three times, lose their sharpness.
Cream also thins the residues.
Figs break up the residues: hence, when eaten by those with kidney diseases, they often produce sandy urine.
Dried figs, almonds, pistachios, cabbage, honey, honey vinegar.
Light wines: if the humours are cold, old and watery wines constipate.
If there is a blockage, take fish sauce with water, and fine, light, white wines, and cooked onion and garlic. As flavourings, and especially in winter, use pepper, oregano, savory, pennyroyal and mustard. Rocket, celery, parsley, radish, mint, five-spice mixture, dill, cumin, anise, carrot: all these flavourings will go with the foods mentioned.
? ? ? ? ? [10] 大麥、葫蘆巴、西瓜、甜葡萄干、蠶豆、鷹嘴豆(特別是黑的)、辣椒(特別是如果作為開胃菜與蜂蜜醋或油醋一起吃的話)、甜菜酒和甜菜本身(如果與芥末或醋一起吃的話)、蘇木、葡萄球莖、洋蔥、大蒜、[韭菜、Levant大蒜]。這些東西,煮兩三次就會(huì)失去其鋒利性。
? ? ? ? ? 奶油也能使殘留物變薄。
? ? ? ? ? 無花果可以分解殘?jiān)阂虼?,有腎臟疾病的人食用后,往往會(huì)產(chǎn)生沙質(zhì)尿液。
? ? ? ? ? 無花果干、杏仁、開心果、卷心菜、蜂蜜、蜜醋。
? ? ? ? ? 清淡的葡萄酒:如果體質(zhì)偏寒,陳年的水酒會(huì)造成便秘。
? ? ? ? ? 如果有堵塞,可服用魚露加水,以及精細(xì)、清淡的白葡萄酒,還有煮熟的洋蔥和大蒜。作為調(diào)味品,尤其是在冬季,可使用胡椒、牛至、香菜、菥蓂和芥末?;鸺⑶鄄恕W芹、蘿卜、薄荷、五香粉、蒔蘿、小茴香、八角、胡蘿卜:所有這些調(diào)味品都可以與上述食物搭配。

[vii] Foods that block the digestion
阻礙消化的食物
[11] Milk that has only a little cream is not healthy if one takes too much of it, since it harms the kidneys and produces kidney stones. Fresh and dried figs, taken after the meal, block the liver; but, mixed with oregano, hyssop or pepper and eaten before the meal, they are particularly healthy. Honey water is unsuitable to those with weak digestions. Fresh dates, and anything made with pasta or durum wheat, block the digestion, enlarge the spleen and also cause kidney stones. Wheat meal with milk, and sweet types of wine, block the digestion and build up intestinal wind.
? ? ? ? ? [11] 少量奶油的牛奶,如果喝多了就不健康,因?yàn)樗鼤?huì)傷害腎臟并易產(chǎn)生腎結(jié)石。新鮮無花果和干無花果在飯后食用會(huì)阻塞肝臟;但如果與牛至、牛膝草或胡椒混合后在飯前食用,則特別健康。蜂蜜水不適合消化不良的人。鮮棗和任何用面食或硬質(zhì)小麥制成的食物都會(huì)阻礙消化,甚至?xí)U(kuò)大脾臟,也會(huì)導(dǎo)致腎結(jié)石。小麥粉加牛奶和甜酒,會(huì)阻礙消化,導(dǎo)致腸脹氣。

[viii] Foods that move the bowels
易活躍腸道的食物
[12] The first water from boiling lentils, [also from cabbage,] especially if flavoured with olive oil or fish sauce. Cooking liquor from hard-shelled seafood, such as lobsters, crabs and the like: if, after cooking them, you flavour the liquid with olive oil or fish sauce, as explained, or with pepper, it will loosen the bowels. Similarly, the cooking liquor of sea urchins, shellfish and snails, also of old domestic fowls. Whole meal loaves, because they contain a lot of bran. Water from cooking fenugreek, boiled with not too much honey, is useful; it purges all who have unhealthy humours in their digestive tract. Only a little honey is wanted in the boiling, because of its pungency. Kolymbades olives with fish sauce, taken before the main course. Cream with a little of the best honey. If you want to make the suggested liquids more strongly purgative, add plenty of salt. The meat of very young animals purges better than that of old ones. Beet, sorrel, garden mercury; also the liquor from boiling these, with salt. Young cheese with honey. Orach, blite, gourd, melons, figs, juicy sweet grapes, mulberries, any of these taken without any addition and eaten before food will purge the bowels. Eaten afterwards they will also eliminate any bad humours found in the system. The gourd does likewise, as do green walnuts, and also dry walnuts that have been steeped in water and shelled. Fresh plums, and dried plums steeped in honey water, whether they are eaten by themselves or taken together with the syrup, purge effectively. Drinking sweet wine [on an empty stomach] and not immediately taking a meal, but allowing it to work for a while. Fresh cherries, apricots, fresh peaches and all fresh juicy fruits, because they prepare the system for purging, but also because the humoral quality of these foods is in the middle of the range and they have no bitterness or alkalinity.
? ? ? ? ? [12] 煮扁豆的第一道水,[也包括卷心菜的水,]特別是如果用橄欖油或魚醬調(diào)味。來自硬殼海鮮,如龍蝦、螃蟹等的烹調(diào)液:如果在烹調(diào)后,用橄欖油或魚露調(diào)味,如前所述,或用胡椒粉調(diào)味,會(huì)倒胃。同樣,海膽、貝類和蝸牛以及老雞的烹飪液也是如此。全餐面包,因?yàn)樗鼈兒写罅康柠熎ぁV蠛J巴的水,與較少的蜂蜜一起煮,是很有用的;它可以凈化所有消化道中不健康的體液。煮的時(shí)候只需要一點(diǎn)蜂蜜,因?yàn)樗写碳ば浴olymbades橄欖加魚醬,在主菜前食用。奶油加少量最好的蜂蜜。如果你想使這里所提到的液體具有更強(qiáng)的凈化作用,可以加入大量的鹽。年幼動(dòng)物的肉比老的動(dòng)物的肉更能好。甜菜、蘇木、還有煮這些東西的酒,加鹽。嫩奶酪加蜂蜜。濱藜, 藜草, 葫蘆, 瓜類, 無花果、多汁的甜葡萄, 桑葚,在這些不加任何東西的食物前吃,都能凈化腸道。之后再吃,它們也會(huì)消除身體系統(tǒng)中的任何不適感。葫蘆、青核桃也是如此,還有浸泡在水中并去殼的干核桃。新鮮的李子,以及用蜂蜜水浸泡過的干李子,無論是直接吃還是與糖漿一起服用,都能有效地凈化腸道。飲用甜酒[空腹],不立即進(jìn)餐,而是讓它發(fā)揮一段時(shí)間的作用。新鮮櫻桃、杏、新鮮桃子和所有新鮮多汁的水果,因?yàn)樗鼈儗?duì)人身體系統(tǒng)有好處,而且還因?yàn)檫@些食物的體液質(zhì)量處于中等水平,它們沒有苦味或堿性。

[ix] Foods that settle the digestive system
使消化系統(tǒng)穩(wěn)定的食物
[13] Astringent dates, astringent raisins, unripe mulberries, blackberries, the fruit of the azarole; more so, myrtle berries, sloes. Astringent apples, whereas the sweet ones, and those that are rather sweet than sharp, move the bowels: the same is said of pomegranates and of pears. Milk, once it has been boiled and the cream taken off. Lobsters, crabs [pagouria, karkinotl, crayfish, if boiled and the liquid drained off, get the digestion under control; similarly with oysters, mussels and the like. Lentils and cabbage, boiled twice, then (in both cases) returned to the second water and boiled vigorously till they soften; the cooking water from these also settles. Rice, broomcorn millet, [foxtail millet.]' Fried eggs. Astringent wine, white wine.
? ? ? ? ? [13] 澀棗、澀葡萄干、未成熟的桑葚、黑莓、杜鵑花的果實(shí);更多的是桃金娘漿果、蘇子。澀的蘋果,而那些寧甜勿澀的蘋果,會(huì)使腸胃蠕動(dòng)過度:石榴和梨的情況也是如此。牛奶,被煮沸并去掉奶油的那種。龍蝦、螃蟹[pagouria, karkinotl, 小龍蝦],如果煮熟并瀝干液體,可以控制消化;同樣,牡蠣、貽貝等也是如此。扁豆和卷心菜,煮兩次,然后(在這兩種情況下)放到另一盆準(zhǔn)備好的水中,開大火煮,直到它們變軟;這些的烹調(diào)水也會(huì)沉淀。大米,糜子,谷子。煎雞蛋。澀酒,白酒。


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