作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達(dá)爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學(xué)者、歷史學(xué)家、語言學(xué)家和翻譯家，以他關(guān)于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達(dá)爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎(jiǎng)，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會(huì)年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會(huì)圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂?

?

Fruits and vegetables

水果和蔬菜

The long and careful list of fruits in the dietary texts (see especially text 2 section iv) is a sign of the range of cultivated fruits in the Byzantine diet and of the importance accorded to them. To the wealthy, who had their own orchards in or near Constantinople, fresh fruit was an everyday luxury. A Russian traveller wrote:

? ? ? In the precinct of St Sophia there are wells, and the Patriarch's garden, and many chapels. All kinds of fruit for the Patriarch: melons, apples and pears, are kept there in a well: they are placed in a basket on the end of a long rope, and when the Patriarch is to eat they pull them out, quite chilled. The Emperor eats in this way too.

? ? ? ? ? 飲食教科書中有著長而仔細(xì)的水果清單（特別是文本2第四部分），這表明拜占庭飲食中栽培水果的范圍以及對(duì)其重要性。對(duì)于在君士坦丁堡或附近擁有自己果園的富人來說，新鮮水果是一種日常奢侈品。一位俄羅斯旅行者寫道：

? ? ? ? ? 圣索菲亞區(qū)有水井、族長花園和許多小教堂。給族長的各種水果：瓜、蘋果和梨，都放在井里：它們被放在一根長繩末端的籃子里，當(dāng)族長要吃的時(shí)候，他們把它們拉出來，很冰涼?；实垡彩沁@樣吃的。

Almost unknown to the classical menu, the lemon became an important fruit in the Byzantine period. It is called kitron in classicizing texts: this was the classical name for the citron, at first applied to the lemon as well. It has a new name, lemoni, in the colloquial, and it was already used for making a conserve or 'spoon sweet' with honey and spices, to dia kitrou, a luxury food with excellent dietary qualities. 'It warms the stomach and aids digestion,' says Simeon Seth, 'but is not so good to eat without the spices.' Meanwhile new varieties of fruits were arriving from the East, such as the 'so-called Saracen melon' and the large jujubes that were called 'Edessan', named after an ancient city and religious centre which for many centuries had marked a frontier Between Roman and Persian spheres of influence. Even newer fruits were the aubergine, mazizani or melitzana, and the orange, nerantzi. Both these names are of Eastern origin, though etymologists see them as having reached Greek by way of the medieval Italian of Venice, Genoa or other trading cities. Simeon Seth, casting about for a classical term for aubergine, identifies it with the strykhnos kepeutos or 'garden nightshade' of Galen - not a bad attempt, since both belong to the same genus. Galen's garden nightshade is still used as a fruit in Crete, though elsewhere in modern Greece it has gained the reputation of being poisonous and is avoided.

? ? ? ? ? 幾乎沒有肉還知道拜占庭的經(jīng)典菜單。檸檬在拜占庭時(shí)期成為一種重要的水果。它在經(jīng)典文本中被稱為kitron：這是citron的經(jīng)典名稱，最初也適用于檸檬。它在口語中有一個(gè)新名稱，lemoni。它被用來制作蜜餞或“勺子甜”，用蜂蜜和香料制成，dia kitrou 是一種具有極佳飲食品質(zhì)的奢侈食品?！八梢詼嘏覆?，幫助消化，”西蒙·塞思說，“但如果沒有香料就不太好吃了?！?/span> 與此同時(shí)，新品種的水果從東方運(yùn)來，例如“所謂的撒拉遜甜瓜”和被稱為“埃德?！钡拇髼?，這種大棗以一座古城和宗教中心命名，幾個(gè)世紀(jì)以來一直是羅馬帝國和波斯的勢(shì)力范圍之間的邊界。較新的水果是茄子（mazizani 或melitzana）以及橙子（nerantzi）。 這兩個(gè)名字都起源于東方，盡管詞源學(xué)家認(rèn)為它們是通過中世紀(jì)意大利威尼斯、熱那亞或其他貿(mào)易城市到達(dá)希臘的。 西蒙·塞思（Simeon Seth）為茄子取了一個(gè)經(jīng)典術(shù)語，將其與蓋倫的 strykhnos kepeutos 或“花園茄屬植物”相提并論——這是一次不錯(cuò)的嘗試，因?yàn)閮烧邔儆谕粚?。蓋倫的花園茄屬植物在克里特島仍然被用作水果，盡管在現(xiàn)代希臘的其他地方它已經(jīng)獲得了不好的名聲并被避免使用。

Meanwhile new ways with old Mediterranean fruits were being discovered. The history of modern Greek spoon sweets has not been traced, but somewhere in their prehistory lie the kydonata 'quince conserve or marmalade' and the karydaton 'walnut conserve' of the Byzantine Empire. Quince marmalade is now known all over southern Europe, but the old-fashioned French name for it, cotignac, was borrowed, by way of Provencal, from the Greek.

? ? ? ? ? 與此同時(shí)，人們發(fā)現(xiàn)了使用古老地中海水果的新方法?，F(xiàn)代希臘勺子糖果的歷史尚未追溯，但在其史前時(shí)期的某個(gè)地方存在拜占庭帝國的 kydonata “木瓜果醬或果醬”和 karydaton “核桃果醬”。 Quince 果醬現(xiàn)在在整個(gè)南歐都廣為人知，但它的老式法語名稱cotignac是從希臘語中借用的普羅旺斯語。

The dietary qualities of fruits were worked out in great detail. The recommendation (text 3 section vi) to eat capers before the meal with honey vinegar or oil and vinegar corresponds precisely with one of the favourite ways to use capers, the so-called 'rose of summer', in modern Greece. Aphrodisiac properties were attributed to several fruits, nuts and seeds. Apart from the guidance given in text 3, we may note that pine kernels, taken with honey or with raisins, were 'good for the semen'; so were poppy seeds with honey, but on the other hand poppy seed could cause headache.

? ? ? ? ? 水果的膳食品質(zhì)得到了非常詳細(xì)的研究。建議（文本 3 第 vi 節(jié)）在餐前用蜂蜜醋或油和醋吃刺山柑，這與現(xiàn)代希臘最喜歡食用刺山柑的方法之一，即所謂的“夏日玫瑰”完全一致。狀羊藥（自己意會(huì)）特性歸因于幾種水果、堅(jiān)果和種子。除了文本 3 中給出的指導(dǎo)外，我們可能會(huì)注意到松仁與蜂蜜或葡萄干一起服用，“對(duì)靜夜（自己意會(huì)）有益”；罌粟籽加蜂蜜也是如此，但另一方面，罌粟籽會(huì)引起頭痛。

Among fruits we must deal with table olives, an essential element of the Byzantine diet. It was observed that olives could not be grown more than thirty-eight miles inland, and the consequent difficulty in obtaining olives suffered by any who lived further away from the sea than that was regarded as a serious misfortune. There were many recipes for olives. The phrase-book lists under elaiai several kinds of table olives called for by dieticians: elaiai thlastai, young olives bruised and cured in salt; elaiai di' oxous syntithemenai, olives conserved in vinegar; kolymbades, green olives conserved in brine, a famous and ancient recipe; elaiai oxomelitai, green olives in honey vinegar, especially recommended for the month of March. Recipes for elaiai thlastai, for kolymbades and for olives in honey vinegar are given in the Geoponica, the farming manual compiled from classical sources under Constantine Porphyrogennetus (see chapter 7 for these recipes).

? ? ? ? ? ?在水果中，我們必須處理食用橄欖，這是拜占庭飲食的基本要素。 據(jù)觀察，橄欖不能在內(nèi)陸種植超過三十八英里，因此任何住在離海更遠(yuǎn)的人都難以獲得橄欖，這被認(rèn)為是一種不幸。關(guān)于橄欖，有很多食譜。 短語手冊(cè)在 elaaii 下列出了營養(yǎng)師要求的幾種食用橄欖：elaaii thlastai，用鹽腌制的年輕橄欖； elaaii di' oxous syntithemenai，用醋保存的橄欖； kolymbades，用鹽水保存的綠橄欖，（一種著名的古老食譜）； elaaiai oxomelitai，蜂蜜醋中的綠橄欖，特別推薦用于三月。elaaii thlastai、kolymbades 和蜂蜜醋橄欖的食譜在 Geoponica 中給出，這是根據(jù)康斯坦丁 Porphyrogennetus 的經(jīng)典資料匯編而成的農(nóng)業(yè)手冊(cè)（這些食譜見第 7 章）。

The dietary effects of vegetables are carefully described in the dietary texts. Simeon Seth adds the well-known facts that lettuce was soporific and antaphrodisiac: those wishing to become parents should avoid lettuce. Celery was useful, he continues, because it made women more uninhibited in their sexual behaviour, but it was to be avoided by women who were nursing as it reduced the quantity of milk that they produced. It was also well known that rocket 'is very heating. It produces semen and awakens the appetite for sex. It causes headache' (bad luck).

? ? ? ? ? 蔬菜的飲食效果在飲食文本中進(jìn)行了詳細(xì)描述。 Simeon Seth 補(bǔ)充了眾所周知的事實(shí)，即生菜催眠與催情效果：那些希望成為父母的人應(yīng)該避免生菜。他繼續(xù)說，芹菜很有用，因?yàn)樗古缘男孕袨楦硬皇芗s束，但哺乳期的女性應(yīng)該避免食用，因?yàn)樗鼤?huì)減少乳汁量。眾所周知，rocket（？？？）“很熱”。它產(chǎn)生靜夜（自己意會(huì)）并喚醒性欲。但它會(huì)導(dǎo)致頭痛'（運(yùn)氣不好）。

The dietary authors offer no advice on mushrooms. Such advice is given briefly in the household manual of the Byzantine author 'Cecaumenus', who simply instructs his son: 'Never eat raw mushrooms! They have killed off many a large family.') Various fungi (including the valuable truffle) were certainly eaten, but no author gives a detailed description of the favoured kinds, the poisonous kinds and their names.

? ? ? ? ? 作者沒有提供有關(guān)蘑菇的建議。這樣的建議在拜占庭作家“Cecaumenus”的家庭手冊(cè)中有簡要說明，他只是告訴他的兒子：“永遠(yuǎn)不要吃生蘑菇！ 他們害死了許多家庭。'）各種真菌（包括珍貴的松露）肯定被吃掉了，但沒有作者詳細(xì)描述受青睞的種類、有毒種類及其名稱。

The wild greens that are said (text 2 section v) to produce 'bad humours' will have included borage, purslane, poppy leaves, sow-thistle and star of Bethlehem, among many others; but mallow, with its mucilaginous texture and taste and its additional uses as a food wrapper, generally counts as a garden vegetable rather than one of the wild greens. Wild fruits are also listed in the manuals - some of them not easy to identify. The distinction Between wild fruits and someone else's orchard fruits - the difference Between foraging and serum ping - was observed by some more punctiliously than others, as indicated by a guilty reminiscence of a Byzantine hermit:

? ?? ? ? When I was a little boy, out with the other children, I used to eat rowan-berries and they used to go off and steal figs. Once they ran away and dropped one of the figs, and I picked it up and ate it. Every time I remember this, I sit down and cry.’

? ? ? ? ? 據(jù)說（文本 2 第 v 節(jié)）會(huì)產(chǎn)生“壞脾氣”的野菜包括琉璃苣、馬齒莧、罌粟葉、水飛薊和伯利恒之星（what？這是什么玩樣？）等；但是錦葵具有粘稠的質(zhì)地和味道以及作為食品包裝的額外用途，通常被視為一種花園蔬菜，而不是一種野菜。 手冊(cè)中還列出了野果——其中一些不易識(shí)別。 野生水果和別人的果園水果之間的區(qū)別——覓食和血清之間的區(qū)別——比其他人更嚴(yán)格地觀察到，正如一位拜占庭隱士的內(nèi)疚回憶所表明的那樣：

? ? ? ? ? “當(dāng)我還是個(gè)小男孩的時(shí)候，和其他孩子一起外出時(shí)，我常常吃花楸漿果，他們常常去偷無花果。有一次他們跑了，掉了一個(gè)無花果，我撿起來吃了。每次我想起這件事，我都會(huì)坐下來哭。（這位修士他應(yīng)該不吃無花果吧（自己聯(lián)系上下文猜的））

未完待續(xù)！

新 年 快 樂 ！