正文翻譯
原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://www.ltaaa.com 翻譯：yzy86 轉(zhuǎn)載請注明出處

?

With juicy meat and extra-crisp skin, Thanksgiving turkeys cooked in the manner of ducks are keeping Chinatown barbecue restaurants busy across the United States.

（副標題）以烹制鴨子的方法烹制出的感恩節(jié)火雞有著多汁的肉和超級脆的皮，它讓全美中國城的燒臘店來客盈門。

Roasted turkey hangs next to char siu in a barbecue case at New Yee Li in Dyker Heights, Brooklyn. New Yee Li is one of several shops and restaurant across the United States that offers Chinese barbecue-style turkey for Thanksgiving.

（圖解：布魯克林戴克高地的新裕利（New Yee Li）餐館中，燒烤箱中掛在叉燒旁邊的烤火雞。新裕利是全美若干家提供中式烤感恩節(jié)火雞的店家之一）

2019年11月18日

The three days leading up to Thanksgiving are manic at Kau Kau BBQ Market & Restaurant, a mainstay in Seattle’s Chinatown that specializes in Chinese barbecue. At least two extra cooks are brought on to help clean, brine, dry, baste and roast holiday turkeys 24 hours a day in the kitchen’s already packed ovens: crisp-skinned, five-spice-seasoned birds that Kau Kau makes according to the same process it uses for its roast duck.

感恩節(jié)之前的三天，巧巧海鮮燒臘飯店里簡直忙瘋了，這是西雅圖中國城中一家專做中式燒臘的招牌館子。至少額外引進了兩名廚子，來幫忙清洗、腌制、晾干，刷汁，并在廚房里已經(jīng)塞滿的烤爐里24小時不間斷地燒烤節(jié)日火雞：巧巧制作的皮脆且五香風味的禽，和其烤鴨用的是同一套工序。?

（圖解：店主的祖先是夏威夷華人，巧巧這個名字大致可翻譯為“很棒的食物”）

For that reason, said Richard Chang, who owns Kau Kau with his wife, Lynn Eng-Chang, the restaurant caps orders at about 80 turkeys per year.

與妻子張林恩（英）共同擁有巧巧餐館的理查德·張說，因為這個原因，該餐館每年能勝任的訂單量為80只火雞。

“We have to stop there, because we just cannot do any more,” he said.

“我們不得不止于這個數(shù)字，因為我們做不出更多的了”，他說。

Each place makes its own a little differently. But the main draw of a turkey roasted according to the lengthy procedures of professional Chinese barbecue is juicy, flavorful meat.

每個地方做出來的都略有不同。但這種烤火雞主要的吸引力在于其多汁而味道豐富的雞肉，依據(jù)的是中國專業(yè)燒臘的漫長程序。

“The American way can be dry,” Mr. Chang said. “The Chinese way is moist.”

“美式烤法會很干”，張先生說。“中式烤法則會很濕潤?！?br/>
Rather than filling the turkey’s cavity with a bready stuffing to roast, Chinese barbecue cooks typically fill it many hours ahead with a wet, mushy marinade that may include toasted dry spices, onions, garlic, ginger and plenty of salt, then skewer the cavity shut.

和把面包狀的填料填滿火雞的腔然后拿去烤不同，做中式燒臘的廚師通常會提前好幾個小時，用濕噠噠的糊狀腌汁填滿它，里頭的用料可以包括烤過的干辣椒、洋蔥、大蒜、姜和足量的鹽，然后用釬子把腔體串起來使其閉合。

The technique, known as “inside brining,” allows the meat to marinate while the turkey is hung up to dry out, typically by its neck — a necessary step so the skin will crisp well. The marinade also helps keep the meat moist while it roasts. (Unlike American-style dry-brined turkeys, in which a much drier salt-and-spice rub is applied to the exterior skin, this Chinese-style brine goes solely inside the cavity.)

這種技術(shù)稱為“體內(nèi)腌制”，能讓肉在這只火雞掛起來晾干時得到腌漬，通常是勾在脖子上掛起來，這是必須的一步，這樣雞皮就會很脆。腌漬也有助于在燒烤過程中保持肉的多汁。（這就和美式干腌火雞不同，后者是在外皮上磨搓上一層干得多的鹽和香辛料，這種中式鹵水只會進入火雞腔內(nèi)。）

?

（圖解：艾瑞克（左）和西門（右）兄弟倆，他們說感恩節(jié)是他們一年中最忙碌的時段）

It’s a process that has been refined over the years at Hing Lung, a Cantonese barbecue shop in San Francisco’s Chinatown that is owned by the brothers Eric and Simon Cheung. Their father began working at the shop in the 1980s, learning to become a si fu, or master, of barbecue. He passed that knowledge on to his sons, although the brothers have made slight tweaks to the classic recipes. That includes the shop’s Thanksgiving turkey, which dates back to the time before their father joined the business.

這是興隆小館一直在改良的一道工序，它是艾瑞克·張和西門·張兄弟倆開在舊金山中國城里的一家廣式燒臘店。他們的父親八十年代開始在這家店里工作，學習如何成為一名燒臘大師傅。他把這方面的知識傳給了他的兒子們，雖然這兩兄弟已經(jīng)對經(jīng)典食譜做了一點小調(diào)整。這也包括這家店的感恩節(jié)火雞，可以追溯到他們的父親干起這一行之前的時代。

For their in-demand turkey, the Cheungs apply a dry rub of Chinese spices like star anise and licorice to the cavity, then fill it with a mixture of onions, garlic and celery. The turkeys, like ducks, are then skewered up to close the cavity, scalded with hot water to tighten the skin and clean off any seasoning mixture, coated in vinegar, and hung to dry for 12 hours. There has been much trial and error over the years; turkeys have fallen off their hooks because they were too heavy, and had to be tossed. But the brothers have gotten a handle on the larger bird.

張氏兄弟會給他們廣受歡迎的火雞作腔內(nèi)的干腌磨搓，用的是諸如八角和甘草的材料，然后再填入洋蔥、大蒜和芹菜的混合物。這些火雞就和鴨子一樣，會在之后被串起，好讓腔體閉合，用滾燙的水作焯水處理，以讓皮膚緊致，并洗去覆蓋在醋上的所有調(diào)味用混合物，然后掛起晾12個小時。多年來，一直都會作很多實驗，也會出很多錯；火雞因為太重，從鉤子上掉下來過，然后就不得不扔掉。但兄弟倆已經(jīng)能夠駕馭更大的禽類。

（圖解：興隆小館中的趙先生正在給火雞的頸腔調(diào)味，這有助于給胸部調(diào)味；他還會在掛起晾幾個小時之前，用醋澆透火雞，根據(jù)燒臘師傅的說法，醋能幫助皮膚均勻地變成褐色，并獲得光澤）

To further set themselves apart from other Chinese barbecue restaurants in the area, Eric Cheung created a Southern-style cream gravy to go with their turkey, using the necks, gizzards and liver — a twist he said was inspired by his fondness for chicken-fried steak at places like IHOP.

為了使他們進一步區(qū)別于那個地區(qū)其他的中國燒臘餐館，艾瑞克·張還創(chuàng)造出了一款南方風格的奶油肉汁，以搭配他們家的火雞，里頭用上了脖子、雞胗和雞肝，他說，這一意料之外的進展，靈感來自于他在一些類似IHOP地方愛吃的炸雞排。?

（譯注：IHOP是一家美國煎餅屋連鎖餐廳，專門提供早餐）

While many Chinese-American households choose not to bother with turkey, in some cases it can’t be avoided. About 30 years ago, Chinese-Americans in Chicago started going to Sun Wah BBQ with raw turkeys they had received from their employers as Thanksgiving gifts. Many were totally unaccustomed to using their ovens, let alone for such a large bird, so they asked the restaurant for help. (Ovens are not a typical feature of home kitchens in China, and most Chinese home cooking occurs on the stovetop.)

雖然很多美國華人家庭會選擇不為火雞費心，但在某些情況下這是躲不開的。大約30年前，芝加哥的美國華人開始帶著生的火雞去新華燒烤餐廳，這是他們從自己老板那兒收到的感恩節(jié)禮物。有很多人完全不習慣使用烤爐，更不用說是要烤這么大一只禽，所以他們向這家餐廳尋求了幫助。（在中國，烤箱并不是家庭廚房的標配，而且大部分的中國家庭烹飪是發(fā)生在爐灶上的。）

“Asians in general don’t really know how to cook turkey,” said Kelly Cheng, whose family owns Sun Wah. “That’s just not something we generally eat.”

“一般而言，亞洲人并不太清楚該如何烹制火雞”，凱麗·程說，她家是新華餐廳的主人?！澳歉静皇俏覀兺ǔコ缘臇|西?！?br/>
But at Sun Wah, the professional kitchen and ovens were there. The poultry-roasting wisdom was there. All that had to be swapped in was the type of bird. That, said Ms. Cheng, is what got the restaurant roasting turkeys.

但在新華餐廳，還是有專業(yè)的廚房和烤爐的。也具備烤制家禽的智慧。唯一需要調(diào)換的只有禽的種類。程女士說，而正是那一點，讓這家餐廳烤起了火雞。

Today, the restaurant handles about 120 turkey orders for Thanksgiving. Ms. Cheng, a second-generation member of the business, admitted that it has become a “l(fā)ogistical nightmare,” but said her family loves doing it for their loyal customers.

今天，這家餐廳要應(yīng)付120只感恩節(jié)火雞的訂單。程女士承認，這種情況已經(jīng)變成了“后勤的噩夢”，她是這門生意的第二代成員，但她說，她的家人很喜歡為他們那些忠誠的顧客做這件事。

Their recipe has also gradually changed to adapt to the oversize bird. They started out with a standard five-spice seasoning based on their roast duck, but found it wasn’t enough to flavor whole turkeys, which have a much higher ratio of meat to skin and bone. They added ginger and cilantro to the inside-brine mixture, and boosted the overall seasoning so it was stronger.

為了適應(yīng)這種體型過大的禽類，她們的食譜也已經(jīng)逐漸發(fā)生了改變。一開始，她們用的是標準的五香風味，這是以她們的烤鴨為基礎(chǔ)的，但發(fā)現(xiàn)要給整只火雞調(diào)味這些還不夠，火雞的肉，和皮以及骨頭的比率要高得多。她們在用作體內(nèi)腌制的混合物中加入了生姜和香菜，并提升了整體的調(diào)味強度，所以味道會重一些。

While Ms. Cheng’s brother, Michael Cheng, runs the barbecue operations, she said that the whole family enjoys arguing over how to improve it.

雖然這家燒烤店是程女士的兄弟，邁克爾·程在運營，她說，她們家所有人都喜歡爭論如何對烤火雞加以改善。

For other Chinese-American households, though, the fear of missing out on a national pastime can be a strong motivator. Often, turkey comes at the instigation of the American-raised generation of the family, who grew up learning about Thanksgiving in school, over crafts like hand tracings drawn to resemble turkeys.

但是對于其他美國華人家庭來說，害怕錯過一項全國性娛樂活動也可以是強大的動力?；痣u常常是靠著家庭中在美國長大那代人的攛掇才出現(xiàn)的，他們是在學校里學著感恩節(jié)長大的，還會在工藝品上手繪出很像火雞的東西。

“It’s such an ingrained part of American culture that we wanted to bring home, but to my parents, it was still completely foreign to them,” said Andrew Shiue, the Chinese-American writer behind the blog Beyond Chinatown. “We wanted to take part in this American tradition.”

“這是美國文化中根深蒂固的一部分，我們想把它帶回家，但對我的父母來說，這仍然是徹頭徹尾的外國事物”，安德魯·薛說，他是博客“城里城外”背后的美國華人作家?！拔覀兿?yún)⑴c到這個美國傳統(tǒng)中來?！?br/>
Wilson Tang, the owner of Nom Wah Tea Parlor in Manhattan’s Chinatown, said his family dabbled in roasting turkey at home when he was growing up, with results that were “hit or miss.”

威爾森·唐是曼哈頓中國城里南華茶室的老板，他說，在他的成長過程中，他的家人對于在家烤火雞也有所涉獵，至于結(jié)果那是“不論成敗”的。

Yee Li, on nearby Bayard Street, became his family’s go-to source. The meat was moister than American-style turkey, Mr. Tang said, and the shop would also carve the turkey in neat pieces, just like a roast duck or soy-sauce chicken.

位于擺也街附近的裕利，成了他家人的重要去處。那里的肉比美國風火雞的肉要多汁，唐先生說，而且這家店也會把火雞整齊地切成塊，就像烤鴨或是醬油雞的切法。

（圖解：新裕利是在曼哈頓開了幾十個年頭的裕利衍生出來的，希望能吸引到尋找老派中國城口味的新顧客）

Although Yee Li closed this year after more than 30 years on Bayard Street, John Chan, a scion of the family that had owned the shop, opened New Yee Li in January in Dyker Heights, Brooklyn, filling a niche for classic Cantonese roast meats and other specialties in an area with a growing population of Chinese immigrants.

雖然在擺也街開了三十多年后的裕利會在今年關(guān)張，這個家庭的傳人約翰·陳已經(jīng)成為了這家店的老板，他一月時在布魯克林的戴克高地開了一家新裕利，在一個中國移民人口不斷增多的地區(qū)內(nèi)，填補了經(jīng)典的廣式烤肉和其他特色菜這個專營市場。

Mr. Chan said that when he was young, he tried to avoid working at his family’s restaurant on Thanksgiving because it was so busy with customers picking up their turkeys. Now he is looking forward to continuing the turkey tradition at his new location — though, he acknowledged, it’s not his favorite dish.

陳先生說，在他還年輕的時候，他會盡量避免在感恩節(jié)去他家的餐館里工作，因為顧客們都會忙著去領(lǐng)取他們的火雞?，F(xiàn)在，他期待著在他的新址延續(xù)這種烤火雞的傳統(tǒng)，雖然他也承認，這不是他最喜歡的菜。

“I don’t actually prefer it over my Italian neighbors’ turkey,” Mr. Chan said. “I like how they do turkey, and they tell me they like my turkey.”

“實際上，相比我那意大利裔鄰居做的火雞，我并不偏愛我家的”，陳先生說?！拔蚁矚g他們料理火雞的方法，而他們告訴我，他們喜歡我家的火雞?！?br/>

評論翻譯
原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://www.ltaaa.com 翻譯：yzy86 轉(zhuǎn)載請注明出處

1、Our host this year had already decided on what to serve when this article came out. But he still went to New Yee Li and got orders of this turkey, which he presented to us guests to take home as "leftovers." That''''''''s what I call a supremely considerate host!

（曼哈頓）這個文出來的時候，今年我們的房東已經(jīng)決定上什么菜了。但他還是去新裕利訂了一只這種火雞，這是他送給我們這些客人帶回家去當“剩菜”的。這就是我所說的考慮極周到的房東！

4、This article is an example of why our melting pot of cultures and flavors makes our country stronger. Thank you for highlighting a different and delicious approach to cooking a turkey.

該文是我們的文化熔爐為什么能讓我們的國家更強大的一個范例。感謝你特意揀出了一種烹制火雞的不同且美味的方法。

5、Thank you for this wonderful article, it is the quintessential story of America, how we have adapted from our ''''''''old'''''''' country to create that which is unique, American.

（南卡）感謝寫出這篇美妙的文章，道出了美國故事的精髓，即我們是如何改編來自我們“故”國的事物，然后創(chuàng)造出獨一無二的美國味。

6、This is a lovely article. But it leaves me wondering: how do Mr Li''''''''s Italian neighbors prepare their turkey?

這是一篇可愛的文章。但它卻讓我很好奇：李先生的意大利裔鄰居是怎么制備他們的火雞的？

7、Why did we Americans go through the torture of trying to make juicy turkey when we could have a naturally juicy and flavorful duck or chicken?

既然我們可以去吃天然就多汁且味道豐富的鴨子或雞，那為什么我們美國人還要去遭受這種制作多汁火雞的折磨呢？

8、Here is a bird, supposed to be raised running around but instead was fed and caged in a farm, is not meant to be roasted and served on a table in a festival of "thanks and giving".
Not a happy time for turkey...
How about light a candle on Thanksgiving Day, pray for another year without human suffering, spare the turkey, and have a vegi dinner...

（芝加哥）它是一只鳥，本該四處跑動自由自在地長大，可是卻被關(guān)在農(nóng)場里接受人工投喂，它的存在可不是為了被烤熟然后端上“感激并贈予”之節(jié)的餐桌的。
對火雞來說，可不是一段快樂時光…
這樣如何，在感恩節(jié)中點一支蠟燭，祈禱來年不再有人類受苦受難，放過那只火雞，然后吃一頓全素的飯…

9、Love this piece. However, I don''''''''t know where the writer got the idea that "American-style" turkey is dry brined, because that''''''''s not true.
Liquid brining is a well-established practice throughout the United States. But it''''''''s a pure pleasure to read about this addition to the American Thanksgiving food canon.
I''''''''m going to have to try this!

（紐約）喜歡這篇文章。但我不知道作者是從哪里得到的印象，說“美式”火雞是干腌的，因為這并不是真的。
在全美，用鹽水腌是通行已久的做法。但除了正統(tǒng)的美國感恩節(jié)食物外，能讀到這個也實在是讓人愉悅。
我一定要去試試這個！

10、I will choose roast duck any day over turkey. I made it an habit to have roast duck in NYC Chinatown and also in San Francisco when I lived there for a while. The turkey is nice but at times very dry. The Chinese are the boss when it comes to roast duck.

（佛羅里達）我在任何時候都會選烤鴨，而不是烤火雞。我在紐約唐人街以及舊金山小住的時候，養(yǎng)成了吃烤鴨的習慣?；痣u很好吃，但有時會非常干。說到做烤鴨，中國人是老大。

Happy Thanksgiving to all, and may we all have much to be thankful for.

祝所有人感恩節(jié)快樂，也愿我們所有人都能有很多可以感恩的人和事。

13、I grew up in an east coast Chinatown and this practice was quite common. Many immigrant families did not know how to cook a turkey "American-style" nor did many homes have ovens big enough for a big bird, so the restaurants stepped in. In my memory, these were best tasting turkeys ever! This article also brings back wonderful memories of family members long gone.

（馬薩諸塞）我是在東海岸的唐人街中長大的，在過去，這種做法是相當普遍的。很多移民家庭不知道怎么烹制“美國范兒”的火雞，而且很多家庭也沒有足夠大的烤箱來烤一只大型禽類，所以這種餐館就有機可乘了。在我的記憶中，這些火雞是迄今為止最美味的火雞！這篇文也讓我憶起了有關(guān)那些去世已久的家人的美好回憶。

14、Just buy the roast ducks; more flavor, less hassle.

（紐約）直接買烤鴨唄，味道更豐富，也不會那么費事。

15、As Yakov Smirnoff used to say, "What a country!"

（威斯康星）就像雅科夫·斯米爾諾夫過去常說的，“好一個國家！”

（譯注：雅科夫·斯米爾諾夫（1951-），烏克蘭裔，美國傳奇喜劇演員，于七十年代逃離蘇聯(lián)）