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【簡譯】古代世界的魚露（Fish Sauce）

2022-08-11 15:39 作者:神尾智代 0人讀過 | 我要投稿

古代世界的魚露

The production and trade of fish sauce in the ancient world was a significant and widespread industry, stretching from Britain to the Black Sea. Roman fish sauce, known as garum, was one of the most popular and commonly used ingredients in the Roman pantry. Some historians have even argued that fish sauce, common throughout Southeast Asia today, was introduced to the continental subregion via the Silk Road.

? ? ? ? ? 在古代世界，魚露的生產(chǎn)和貿易是一個重要及廣泛的行業(yè)，它的貿易范圍從英國延伸到黑海。羅馬魚露，被人們稱為garum，是羅馬廚房中最受歡迎和最常用的調料之一。一些歷史學家甚至認為，今天在整個東南亞常見的魚露是通過絲綢之路傳入該大陸次區(qū)域的。

魚露的起源

Not much is known about the earliest fish sauces in Europe. The first recorded fish sauce was produced by the ancient Greeks along the coastline of the Black Sea. The abundant fishery resources of the region may have been a significant factor in Greek colonisation of the area, even as early as the 7th century BCE. Called gàros, it was made by fermenting small fish with salt which produced an amber-coloured liquid.

? ? ? ? ? 關于歐洲最早的魚露，人們所知不多。第一個有記錄的魚露是由古希臘人在黑海的海岸線生產(chǎn)的。該地區(qū)豐富的漁業(yè)資源可能是希臘人在該地區(qū)殖民的一個重要因素，殖民活動甚至早在公元前7世紀就開始了。這種魚露被稱為gàros，是通過將小魚與鹽發(fā)酵產(chǎn)生琥珀色液體而制成。

The Carthaginians were also early makers and traders of fish sauce, producing it along the coast of the Lake of Tunis, in modern day Tunisia. A Punic shipwreck from 5th century BCE, found off the coast of Ibiza, may have been carrying a cargo of fish sauce stored in amphorae made in Gades (modern day Spain) and Tingi (modern-day Morocco). There are many early Graeco-Roman literary references to fish sauce, from writers such as Aristophanes, Sophocles and Aeschylus. The numerous casual mentions suggest it was a commonplace ingredient in the ancient Mediterranean.

? ? ? ? ? 迦太基人也是早期的魚露制造商和貿易商，在現(xiàn)代突尼斯的突尼斯湖沿岸生產(chǎn)魚露。考古學家在伊比沙島海岸發(fā)現(xiàn)了一艘公元前5世紀的布匿人沉船，可能載有儲存在蓋德（今西班牙）和廷吉（今摩洛哥）制造的雙耳瓶中的魚露。在早期的希臘-羅馬文學中，有許多關于魚露的記載，如阿里斯托芬、索?？死账购桶Ｋ箮炝_斯等作家都曾提到過魚露。大量不經(jīng)意的提及表明魚露在古代地中海是一種常見的配料。

古羅馬的魚露

The Roman version of fish sauce was called garum. Many believe it originated from the Greek gàros as contemporary accounts suggest they had many similarities, notably their pungent smell. But they may have been composed of different kinds of fish and manufactured in distinct ways.

? ? ? ? ? 羅馬的魚露被稱為Garum。許多人認為它起源于希臘的gàros，因為當時的記載表明它們之間有許多相似之處，特別是它們的刺激性氣味。但它倆可能是由不同種類的魚、并以不同的方式制造的。

The Romans had a number of different varieties, including garum, liquamen, muria, allec and haimation. It can be hard to differentiate between the different kinds as the names were used interchangeably. Liquamen, for example, became a catch-all term for any fish sauce, though was also used as a specific term for a fish sauce made from the whole fish.

? ? ? ? ? 羅馬人有許多不同品種的魚露，包括garum、liquamen、muria、allec和haimation。由于這些名稱可以互換使用，因此很難區(qū)分不同的種類。例如，Liquamen可以是任何魚露的總稱，但也被用作由整條魚制成的魚露的特定術語。

Below are definitions for the main Roman fish sauces:

Garum?- The term is often ? ? ?used to describe all Roman fish sauces. It may come from the Greek,?gàros.?Garum?began ? ? ?as an elite food made from fish blood and could be extremely expensive. ? ? ?Pliny said that?garum?was 'blended to the colour of old ? ? ?honey wine' (Walker, 300).
Liquamen?- Another ? ? ?general term for fish sauce. Translating as 'liquid mixture', Pliny ? ? ?described it as the sediment of?garum. It is believed to have ? ? ?had a lower status than?garum?and might have been used to ? ? ?extend salt supplies. The fish sauce industry was called?liquaminarium?and ? ? ?a dealer in fish sauce a?liquaminarius.?Liquamen?was ? ? ?made primarily with sardines, herring, shad and eel.
Muria?-?Muria?was ? ? ?the brine filtered out after salting the fish and was usually made from ? ? ?tunny.
Allec?- More of a ? ? ?paste than sauce?allec?was made from leftover sediment. ? ? ?It contained bones and other parts of the fish that did not rot.
Haimation?- A type of?garum, ? ? ?this was the highest quality fish sauce and therefore mainly for wealthier ? ? ?citizens.?Haimation, or 'blood sauce', was often made from the ? ? ?blood and guts of tunny.

下面是羅馬主要魚露的定義：

Garum：這個詞經(jīng)常被用來描述所有的羅馬魚露。它可能來自希臘語，gàros。Garum開始是一種由魚血制成的精致食品，可能非常昂貴。普林尼曾說，Garum是 "混合老蜜酒的顏色"（沃克，300）。
Liquamen：魚露的另一個術語。普林尼將其翻譯為 "液體混合物"，將其描述為Garum的沉淀物。據(jù)說，它的地位低于Garum，可能被用來作鹽的替代品。魚露行業(yè)被稱為liquaminarium，魚露經(jīng)銷商被稱為liquaminarius。Liquamen主要是用沙丁魚、鯡魚、鰣魚和鰻魚制作的。
Muria ： Muria是鹽腌魚后過濾出來的鹽水，通常是用金槍魚制作的。
Allec：與其說是醬汁，不如說是糊狀，Allec是由剩余的魚露沉淀物制成的。它包含魚的骨頭和其他沒有腐爛的部分。
Haimation：一種garum，這是最高質量的魚露，因此多出現(xiàn)在富裕人家的餐桌上。Haimation，或稱 "血醬"，通常用長尾魚的血和內臟制成。

Broadly speaking, Roman fish sauces were made by mixing fish blood, guts and heads with large quantities of sea salt. The mixture was then left to ferment for varying amounts of time. According to Pliny, garum could be made with a variety of fish or shellfish, including maena, murena, tunny, mullet, oysters, and sea urchins, although mackerel was the most popular.

? ? ? ? ? 概括地說，羅馬魚露是由魚血、內臟和魚頭與大量海鹽混合而成?；旌衔锉环胖迷诓煌臅r間段內發(fā)酵。根據(jù)普林尼的說法，garum可以用各種魚或貝類制作，包括尖尾魚、海鰻、金槍魚、鯔魚、牡蠣和海膽，但青花魚是最受歡迎的。

人們的喜愛程度

Garum was popular with every level of Roman society for a number of reasons. It was an important way of preserving fish, which spoiled easily once dead. By adding salt to fish and leaving it to ferment, the growth of mould was prevented, extending the shelf life considerably. It also provided a valuable source of protein and nutrients, especially to the poor. More importantly, however, was a love of the salty, umami taste. According to Pliny, garum was an "exquisite liquid" which was "so pleasant that it can be drunk" (Walker, 300). Not everybody loved fish sauce, however. The statesman Seneca described it as "poisonous fish" which "burns up with stomach with its putrefaction" (Rimas, 51).

? ? ? ? ? 由于一些原因，Garum受到羅馬社會各個階層的歡迎。它是保存魚的一種重要方式，因為魚一旦死了就很容易變質。通過在魚中加入鹽并讓其發(fā)酵，可以防止霉菌的生長，大大延長保質期。它還提供了寶貴的蛋白質和營養(yǎng)物質的來源，特別是對窮人家庭來說。然而，更重要的是，人們對咸味、鮮味的喜愛。根據(jù)普林尼的說法，Garum是一種 "精致的液體"，"味道非常令人愉快，可以飲用"（沃克，300）。然而，并非所有人都喜歡魚露。政治家塞涅卡將其描述為 "有毒的魚"，"用它的腐爛來燒毀胃"（Rimas，51）。

使用方法

Relatively little is known about how garum was used in the Roman world until the 1st century CE, through the works of Marcus Gavius Apicius. Apicius, the renowned epicure, records nearly 350 recipes that use fish sauce. It was added as an ingredient in almost every recipe, including many sweet dishes. It may have also been used as a table condiment, though there is little evidence to support this.

? ? ? ? ? 在公元1世紀之前，通過馬庫斯·加維烏斯·阿庇西烏斯的作品，人們對羅馬世界如何使用魚露的了解相對較少。阿皮基烏斯是著名的美食家，他記錄了近350種使用魚露的食譜。魚露被作為一種調料添加到每種食譜中，包括甜菜食譜。它也可能被用作餐桌上的調味品，盡管沒有什么證據(jù)支持這一點。

Garum was mixed with other liquids to create new sauces, such as oenogarum (fish sauce with wine) and oxygarum (fish sauce with vinegar). The most famous sausage in the ancient world, lucanica, was smoked, spiced and given a salty flavour with the addition of liquamen. Galen, the famed 1st-2nd century CE Roman physician, even prescribed a bowl of lentils and garum for those suffering from diarrhoea.

? ? ? ? ? 人們將Garum與其他液體混合，創(chuàng)造出新的醬汁，如oenogarum（加酒的魚露）和oxygarum（加醋的魚露）。古代世界最有名的香腸，Lucanica，被熏制，加了香料，并通過添加liquamen而獲得了咸味。公元1-2世紀著名的羅馬醫(yī)生蓋倫甚至給那些患有腹瀉的人開了一碗小扁豆和加侖姆的處方。

生產(chǎn) 情況

While the garum industry was not as large as that of olive oil or wine, it was still significant and widespread. Factories dedicated to the production existed across the empire, mainly found in Spain, Portugal, southern France and North Africa. To date, the largest factory uncovered in the western Mediterranean, located at Lixus (in modern-day Morocco). The site included ten factories with a salting capacity of over 1,000,000 litres. By comparison, the largest olive oil factory discovered could only produce one-tenth of this amount.

? ? ? ? ? 雖然魚露產(chǎn)業(yè)不像橄欖油或葡萄酒那樣大，但它仍然很重要。帝國各地都有專門用于生產(chǎn)的工廠，主要在西班牙、葡萄牙、法國南部和北非。迄今為止，考古學家在地中海西部發(fā)現(xiàn)了最大的古代魚露工廠，位于Lixus（在今天的摩洛哥）。該遺址包括十個工廠，鹽漬能力超過100萬升。相比之下，迄今為止所發(fā)現(xiàn)的最大的古代橄欖油工廠只能生產(chǎn)這一數(shù)量的十分之一。

The production of fish sauce could also take place more widely than those of other foods, such as olive oil and wine, which could not be grown in certain parts of the empire. Fish, on the other hand, could be processed near any body of water that had access to a salt supply. While fish sauce was imported to Roman Britain mainly from the Iberian peninsula, archaeological sites near London, Lincoln and York have been identified as possible garum factories. Not always popular, at certain times, when the smell from production became too overwhelming, local governors had to temporarily halt production.

? ? ? ? ? 魚露的生產(chǎn)也可以比其他食物的生產(chǎn)更靈活，如橄欖油和葡萄酒，后者的原材料在帝國的某些地區(qū)不能種植。另一方面，魚可以在任何有鹽供應的水體附近加工。雖然魚露主要是從伊比利亞半島進口到羅馬-不列顛的，但倫敦、林肯和約克附近的考古遺址已被確定有魚露工廠的痕跡。魚露在某些時候，并不總是受歡迎的，當生產(chǎn)的氣味變得過于壓抑時，當?shù)氐目偠讲坏貌粫簳r停止魚露的生產(chǎn)。

Due to varying types of fish and processes used, each location produced a sauce with a distinct taste, colour and consistency. By the time of Augustus (27 BCE – 14 CE), a type of fish sauce made in Cartagena and Cadiz, Spain, called garum sociorum, was considered the highest quality. Garum sociorum could be sold for 1,000 sesterces for 12 pints, the equivalent of over 950 kg (1.05 tons) of wheat in Pompeii in 79 CE or 2,000 loaves of bread.

? ? ? ? ? 由于魚的品種和使用的工藝不同，每個地方生產(chǎn)的醬汁都有獨特的味道、顏色和濃度。到奧古斯都時期（公元前27年-公元前14年），西班牙卡塔赫納和加的斯生產(chǎn)的一種魚露，被認為是最優(yōu)質的。Garum sociorum（這種魚露最初來自迦太基地區(qū)）可以賣到12品脫1000塞斯特，相當于公元79年龐貝城超過950公斤（1.05噸）的小麥或2000個面包的價格。

衰? ? ?落

Some historians believe fish sauce was introduced to Asia by the Romans via the Silk Road, while others maintain that Asian communities independently invented their own varieties. Either or both may be true. Interestingly, in 2010 CE, a team of researchers analysed samples of garum taken from containers preserved at Pompeii. They found that Roman fish sauce from the 1st century CE had an almost identical taste profile to those produced today in southeast Asia.

? ? ? ? ? 一些歷史學家認為魚露是由羅馬人通過絲綢之路傳入亞洲的，另一些人則認為亞洲社區(qū)獨立創(chuàng)造了自己的魚露品種。這兩種說法都可能是真的。有趣的是，2010年，一個研究小組分析了從龐貝城保存的容器中提取的魚露樣品。他們發(fā)現(xiàn)，公元1世紀的羅馬魚露與今天在東南亞生產(chǎn)的魚露有著幾乎相同的味道特征。

In Europe, the fall of the Roman Empire led to heavy taxes on salt, driving up the price of garum. Alongside this, an increase in pirate activity in the Mediterranean meant traditional trades routes were disrupted. Some areas continued localised production, such as the famous colatura di alici fish sauce made in Cetara, southwest Italy. In general terms, however, production almost entirely disappeared across the West.

? ? ? ? ? 在歐洲，羅馬帝國的衰落導致中央對鹽征收重稅，推高了魚露的價格。與此同時，地中海地區(qū)海盜活動的增加意味著傳統(tǒng)的貿易路線被破壞。一些地區(qū)繼續(xù)進行本地化生產(chǎn)，如意大利西南部切塔拉生產(chǎn)的著名的colatura di alici魚醬。然而，從總體上看，整個西方的魚露生產(chǎn)幾乎完全消失了。

References to garum crop up again in later accounts from Byzantium. It is mentioned by Liutprand of Cremona in the 10th century CE, who wrote:

There was a liquor called garum which was once as widely used at Rome as vinegar is now. We found it as popular in Turkey as it ever was. There is not a fishmonger's shop in Constantinople that has not some for sale…

(Dalby, 2010, 68)

? ? ? ? ? 在后來來自拜占庭的記載中，再次提到了魚露。西元10世紀克雷莫納的利烏特普蘭德提到了它，他寫道：

? ? ? ? ? 有一種叫garum的料酒，在羅馬曾經(jīng)像現(xiàn)在的醋一樣廣泛使用。我們發(fā)現(xiàn)它在土耳其和以前一樣流行。在君士坦丁堡，沒有一家魚販子的商店不出售這種液體......

Though garum was probably not as popular as Liutprand claims as it was only mentioned sporadically.

? ? ? ? ? 魚露可能并不像利烏特普蘭德所說的那樣受歡迎，因為它只是被當時的人們零星地提及。

帶有彩繪銘文的魚露瓶，標識其內容物是龐貝生產(chǎn)商 Aulus Umbricius Scaurus 制造的 Garum。

復? ? ?蘇

Since Roman times, and perhaps before, fish sauce has been extremely popular in the southeast Asian countries of Cambodia, Lao, Myanmar, the Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam. Fish sauce had at one point been used widely across Japan, Korea and parts of China but from the 14th century CE soy sauce replaced it as the salt-giving, umami-enhancing ingredient. Today, with the cuisines of Southeast Asia becoming more prominent in the West and with more Westerners travelling to the region than ever before, varieties of fish sauce are regaining their ancient popularity.

? ? ? ? ? 自羅馬時代以來，也許是更早的時候，魚露在柬埔寨、老撾、緬甸、菲律賓、泰國和越南等東南亞國家非常流行。魚露曾一度在日本、韓國和中國部分地區(qū)廣泛使用，但從公元14世紀開始，醬油開始逐漸取代了魚露，成為補充鹽分、增進味覺的配料。今天，隨著東南亞的菜肴在西方變得更加受歡迎，以及越來越多的西方人到該地區(qū)旅行，魚露的使用越來越像古代一樣流行起來。