作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達(dá)爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學(xué)者、歷史學(xué)家、語言學(xué)家和翻譯家，以他關(guān)于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達(dá)爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎(jiǎng)，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會(huì)年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會(huì)圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂??

The Emperors at dinner

晚宴上的帝王

?In Constantinople, beside the sea and facing east, is an imperial residence known as the Constantinian Palace. Its entrance, remarkable and impressive, is from the sea. There are marble steps that run right to the edge of the sea, guarded by marble lions and marble pillars of regal grandeur ...

? ? ? ? ? 在君士坦丁堡，臨海而東，有一座皇宮，被稱為君士坦丁宮。它的入口，面向大海，非凡而令人印象深刻。有大理石臺(tái)階直通大海邊緣，由大理石獅子和富麗堂皇的大理石柱子守衛(wèi)兩側(cè)......

This view of the Great Palace is the preface to the narrative of a diplomatic visit to Constantinople in 1171. The Latin king of Jerusalem, Amalric, was leader of the party. His aim was to gather military and financial support for his shaky Crusader kingdom. To the kings of the West he had sent an ambassador: to the Byzantine Emperor, far richer than any of them, geographically closer, and already linked with the Crusader kingdom by ties of marriage, he applied in person. As a crowned monarch he was accorded the rare privilege of approaching the palace direct from the sea, by the marble steps of Bucoleon.

? ? ? ? Curtains of costly material and no less costly workmanship screened the throne room. Certain great princes welcomed the lord King at this point and led him within. I am told that this was done to maintain imperial majesty while the two made their acquaintance: I am told that among his peers, when only noblemen were present, the lord Emperor greeted the lord King with affable smiles, which, had he done so in open court, would have detracted from his dignity. After the lord King had entered the throne room, the curtains were drawn back in a moment, and we who had been left outside suddenly saw the lord Emperor, seated on a golden throne, clothed in imperial panoply. Beside him was the lord King, seated on a noble throne, though a humbler one.

? ? ? ? ? 這種大皇宮景觀是 1171 年對(duì)君士坦丁堡進(jìn)行外交訪問的敘述的序言。耶路撒冷的拉丁國王阿馬爾里克是該國的領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人。他的任務(wù)是為他搖搖欲墜的十字軍王國提供軍事和財(cái)政支持。他向西方的國王派了使者：親自向拜占庭皇帝提出申請(qǐng)，這位皇帝比他們中的任何一個(gè)都富有，地理上也更接近，且已經(jīng)通過聯(lián)姻與十字軍王國聯(lián)系在一起。作為加冕的君主，他獲得了難得的特權(quán)，可以通過布科倫的大理石臺(tái)階直接從海上接近宮殿。

? ? ? ? ? 昂貴材料和具有昂貴工藝的窗簾遮蔽了這座王室。此時(shí)，幾位皇子迎了上來，領(lǐng)著他進(jìn)去。聽說是為了維持皇上的威嚴(yán)，二人相識(shí)：聽說在同輩之中，只有貴人在場的時(shí)候，皇上就面帶和藹的笑著跟他打招呼。 公開出現(xiàn)，會(huì)減損他的尊嚴(yán)。拉丁國王進(jìn)入大廳后，不一會(huì)兒窗簾就被拉開，被留在外面的我們頓時(shí)看到了坐在金色寶座上，身披皇袍的皇帝。在他旁邊是皇后大人，坐在一個(gè)高貴的寶座上，雖然是一個(gè)更卑微的寶座（相較于王座）。

The narrator is William, archbishop of Tyre and historian of Outremer, of the Crusader states. He has visited Constantinople at least once before and will come here at least once more before he dies. On that last occasion (in 1180) it will be his privilege to attend two imperial weddings, those of the son and daughter of the old Emperor Manuel. In spite of his expressions of conventional distrust for 'the Greeks' and their Byzantine diplomacy, expressions several times repeated in the course of his Historia Transmarina, William (unlike, say, Liutprand of Cremona) is prepared to be impressed by the wealth and the pageantry of the imperial capital.

? ? ? ? He repeatedly honored both the lord King himself and the members of our party with gifts of truly imperial munificence, and showed his concern for our health and welfare by frequent enquiries. The inner regions of the Palace that were closed to all but his personal staff, the altars of his private life, his sacred places never entered by ordinary people, his treasuries and ancestral repositories of everything that is desirable, these he commanded to be thrown open as if for his own household. Relics of the religion, the most precious proofs of the dispensation of our lord Jesus Christ - the Cross, the fetters, the spear, the sponge, the reed, the crown of thorns, the shroud, the sandals - all these he instructed to be shown to us. Every historic and numinous object handed down from the times of the blessed and august Constantine, Theodosius and Justinian, and stored in the treasure chests in his private apartments, was liberally displayed to us. And on holidays he several times invited the lord King, and the whole party, to noble games and entertainments. Among these were presented to us concerts with various musical instruments, and with songs of wonderful sweetness remarkable for their clever harmony; there was also singing by girls' choirs, and some admirable performances by players, not overstepping the bounds of propriety.

? ? ? ? ? 敘述者是威廉，他是十字軍國家的提爾大主教和奧特雷默的歷史學(xué)家。 他之前至少訪問過君士坦丁堡一次，并且在他死前至少來了一次。 在最后一次（1180 年），他將有幸參加兩場皇室婚禮，即老皇帝曼努埃爾的兒子和女兒的婚禮。 盡管他表達(dá)了對(duì)“希臘人”及其拜占庭外交的傳統(tǒng)不信任，但在他的跨海歷史的過程中多次重復(fù)表達(dá)，威廉（不像克雷莫納的柳特普蘭德）準(zhǔn)備好被眾多財(cái)富和帝都的盛況所折服。

? ? ? ? ? 他一再向國王本人和我們國王的成員贈(zèng)送真正的皇室大禮，并通過頻繁的詢問來表達(dá)他對(duì)我們健康和福利的關(guān)心?；蕦m的內(nèi)部，除了他的親信，他的私生活的房間，他從不被普通人進(jìn)入的圣地，他的寶庫和祖?zhèn)鞯膶殠?，這些都被他命令打開。仿佛是為了自己的家。宗教的遺物，我們主耶穌基督時(shí)代最寶貴的證據(jù)——十字架、腳鐐、長矛、海綿、蘆葦、荊棘冠冕、裹尸布、涼鞋——所有這些都是他指示要向我們展示的。從受過祝福和莊嚴(yán)的君士坦丁、狄奧多西和查士丁尼時(shí)代傳下來的每一件歷史和神圣的物品，存放在他私人公寓的寶箱里，這些都被他慷慨地展示給我們。節(jié)假日，他多次邀請(qǐng)國王大人和其他大臣參加高尚的游戲和娛樂活動(dòng)。其中包括演奏各種樂器的音樂會(huì)，以及以巧妙和聲而著稱的美妙甜美的歌曲。還有女子合唱團(tuán)的歌聲，還有雜技選手的精彩表演，但不失禮節(jié)。

In all its visitors Constantinople encouraged the same powerful impression of ancient, legendary, timeless grandeur. It was true. The Great Palace had been there ever since Constantine refounded the city, on the rocky northeastern promontory of the peninsula (the site of the old akropolis or citadel of Byzantion). Yet things did change. In fact, by the time Manuel was Emperor and Amalric paid this visit, the Great Palace was no longer the regular imperial residence, though it was still used on big state occasions such as this. For much of the time the Emperors lived at the smaller palace of Blachernae, close to the inland city wall, less exposed to the elements and to the busy seaway of the Bosporus, less hemmed in by the noisy Hippodrome and the great big city itself Manuel himself had just erected a new hall at Blachernae on whose walls were narrative pictures of the wars of Byzantium.

? ? ? ? ?在所有游客中，君士坦丁堡都給人一種古老、傳奇、永恒的宏偉印象。 這是真的。 自從君士 坦丁重建這座城市以來，大皇宮就一直在那里，位于半島東北部多巖石的海角（舊雅典衛(wèi)城或拜占庭城堡的所在地）。 然而事情確實(shí)發(fā)生了變化。 事實(shí)上，當(dāng)曼努埃爾成為皇帝和阿馬爾里克來訪時(shí)，大皇宮已經(jīng)不再是皇室的常規(guī)居所，盡管它仍然在重大國家場合使用。 大部分時(shí)間，皇帝都住在較小的布拉赫內(nèi)宮殿，靠近內(nèi)陸城墻，較少暴露于自然風(fēng)和博斯普魯斯海峽繁忙的海道中，較少被喧鬧的競技場和大城市曼努埃爾所包圍。他自己剛剛在 Blachernae 建立了一座新大廳，墻上掛著拜占庭戰(zhàn)爭的敘事畫。

In the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, after the catastrophe of the Latin conquest, the Great Palace crumbled, and it was left to the Turkish conqueror Mehmet II to restore it.

? ? ? ? Around the palace he laid out a circle of large and beautiful gardens, burgeoning with various fine plants, bringing forth fruits in season, flowing with abundant streams, cold, clear, and good to drink, studded with beautiful groves and meadows, resounding and chattering with flocks of singing birds that were also good to eat, pasturing herds of animals both domesticated and wild.

? ? ? ? ? 十三、十四世紀(jì)，在拉丁人征服的浩劫之后，大皇宮坍塌，留給土耳其征服者穆罕默德二世去修復(fù)。

? ? ? ? ? 他在王宮周圍布置了一圈又大又美的花園，種滿了各種精美的植物，時(shí)令結(jié)出果實(shí)，流淌著豐沛的溪流，清冷清澈，很好喝，小溪點(diǎn)綴著美麗的小樹林和草地，響亮而喋喋不休。這里放牧著成群的馴養(yǎng)動(dòng)物，也有野生動(dòng)物。

Mehmet was a notable patron of architects and of landscape gardeners. This quotation from the very last historian of medieval Byzantium makes the link between the old Great Palace and what we know now as Topkapl Saray, its direct successor. The park and gardens of Mehmet II, studded as they are with the buildings of Topkapl Saray, were a recreation of the gardens that had given pleasure to the first Emperors of Constantinople.

? ? ? ? ? 穆罕默德是建筑師和景觀園丁的著名資深人士。中世紀(jì)拜占庭最后一位歷史學(xué)家的這段引文將古老的大皇宮與我們現(xiàn)在所知的托普卡普爾·薩雷 (Topkapl Saray) 聯(lián)系起來，后者是它的直接繼任者。 穆罕默德二世的公園和花園與托普卡普爾薩拉伊的建筑密不可分，是對(duì)君士坦丁堡第一任皇帝的花園的再創(chuàng)造。

Among the many Latin loanwords in Byzantine palace jargon was the term for a dining room, Latin trielinium, literally 'three-couch room'. It was so called because, in earlier Roman times, dining rooms had almost universally been laid out with three large couches, arranged on three sides of a square, giving room for about nine diners to recline - and in those times it was always correct to recline to eat. Although the typical arrangement of a dining room had long since changed, Palace custom at Constantinople retained the name triklinon for a dining room, and for several centuries retained the custom of reclining. The Okeanos 'Ocean' dining hall at the palace of Blachernae was sometimes used for great entertainments; and there were three famous dining halls among the buildings of the old Great Palace. One was the Triclinium of Magnaura: 'this building was diligently completed by two Emperors on whom the Cross bestowed the power to achieve good - Heraclius and his son Constantine', so we are told in a verse couplet once inscribed at its entrance and enshrined forever in the great anthology of Greek epigrams.' A second was the Trikonkhos, where there was an ever-flowing fountain. In this hall the Emperor dined in state when the wind blew: perhaps it was less draughty than the other two?

? ? ? ? ? 在拜占庭宮殿行話中的許多拉丁語借詞中，有一個(gè)餐廳術(shù)語，拉丁語 trielinium，字面意思是“三沙發(fā)房間”。之所以這么稱呼，是因?yàn)樵谠缙诘牧_馬時(shí)代，餐廳幾乎普遍布置了三個(gè)大沙發(fā)，布置在廣場的三個(gè)側(cè)面，為大約九位食客提供了斜倚的空間——在那個(gè)時(shí)代，總是躺著吃。盡管餐廳的典型布置早已改變，但君士坦丁堡的宮廷風(fēng)俗仍保留了餐廳的名稱 triklinon，并且?guī)讉€(gè)世紀(jì)以來一直保留著斜倚的習(xí)慣。 Blachernae 宮的 Okeanos 'Ocean' 餐廳有時(shí)被用于大型娛樂活動(dòng)。在舊大皇宮的建筑之中，有三個(gè)著名的食堂。一個(gè)是馬格瑙拉的三棱柱：“這座建筑是由兩位皇帝辛勤地完成的，他們被十字架賦予了實(shí)現(xiàn)善的力量——赫拉克略和他的兒子君士坦丁”，所以被寫在一首詩對(duì)聯(lián)中，它曾經(jīng)刻在它的入口處并永遠(yuǎn)供奉在偉大的希臘警句選集中。第二個(gè)是特里孔科斯，那里有一個(gè)不斷流動(dòng)的噴泉。在這個(gè)大廳里，皇帝在風(fēng)起時(shí)宣布開始盛宴：也許它比其他兩個(gè)更不通風(fēng)？

The third dining hall was the House of the Nineteen Couches, as is here explained by Liutprand: 'There is a hall near the Hippodrome looking northwards, wonderfully lofty and beautiful, which is called Decanneacubita, the House of the Nineteen Couches. The reason for its name is obvious: deca is Greek for "ten", ennea for "nine", and cubita are couches with curved ends'. We are assisted in picturing this banqueting hall by a Muslim hostage, Harun Ibn Yahya, who was detained at Constantinople in 911.

? ? ? ? If you lift the curtain and enter the Palace, you will see a vast courtyard, four hundred paces square, paved with green marble. Its walls are decorated with various mosaics and paintings ... To the left of the entrance is a room two hundred paces long and fifty wide. In this room are a wooden table, an ivory table, and, facing the door, a gold table. After the festivals, when the Emperor leaves the church, he enters this room and sits at the gold table.

? ? ? ? ? 第三個(gè)餐廳是十九榻之家，正如柳特普朗在此解釋的那樣：“在競技場附近有一個(gè)大廳向北看，非常高大而美麗，它被稱為 Decanneacubita，即十九榻之家。 它的名字的原因很明顯：deca 是希臘語的“十”，ennea 是“九”，cubita 是帶有彎曲末端的沙發(fā)。 在 911 年被關(guān)押在君士坦丁堡的穆斯林人質(zhì) Harun Ibn Yahya 協(xié)助我們描述了這個(gè)宴會(huì)廳。

? ? ? ? ? 掀簾入宮，便是四百步方方正方，青石鋪成的大院。 它的墻壁上裝飾著各種馬賽克和繪畫……入口的左側(cè)是一個(gè)長兩百步，寬五十步的房間。 這個(gè)房間里有一張木桌、一張象牙桌，還有一張面對(duì)門的金桌。 節(jié)日過后，當(dāng)皇帝離開教堂時(shí)，他進(jìn)入這個(gè)房間，坐在金桌旁。

This was, as Harun suggests, the banqueting hall that was used on great festival days. On the ninth day of Christmas, for example, the Emperor would be entertained at dinner in the House of the Nineteen Couches with traditional 'Gothic' songs and dances, which are all carefully set out with accompanying translations in the Book of Ceremonies compiled under the direction of the Emperor Constantine VII Porphyrogennetus.

? ? ? ? ? ?正如哈倫所說，這是在節(jié)日期間使用的宴會(huì)廳。 例如，在圣誕節(jié)的第 9 天，皇帝會(huì)在十九榻之家用傳統(tǒng)的“哥特式”歌曲和舞蹈招待皇帝，在君士坦丁七世 Porphyrogennetus 皇帝的指導(dǎo)下編寫的《儀式手冊(cè)》中，所有這些內(nèi)容都經(jīng)過精心編排，并附有翻譯。

In these various dining halls, and (on appropriate occasions) at dining halls of guilds and associations in the city, the Emperors ate. They took krama or lunch, with friends or with the whole senate; they accepted the homage of a deximon, a dinner on return from a journey; they invited the great and good of government, church and city to a grand kletorion or reception.' For how many years were the prescriptions in the Book of Ceremonies followed faithfully, as their compiler, Constantine Porphyrogennetus, surely intended? We have no idea. For the great occasions of the Palace year (and there were many great occasions), every dignitary who deserves an invitation is listed. Every loyal chorus is specified. Exchanges of convivial politeness are laid down to be spoken in half-forgotten Latin, as they must already have been spoken for hundreds of years - and the Latin is spelt out in Greek letters so that the master of ceremonies can read it, even if he will not understand it.

? ? ? ? ? 在這些不同的食堂中，以及（在適當(dāng)?shù)膱龊希┰诔抢镄袝?huì)和協(xié)會(huì)的食堂，皇帝們都會(huì)去吃飯。 他們與朋友或整個(gè)參議院一起吃krama或午餐； 他們接受了惡魔的敬意，旅途歸來的晚餐； 他們邀請(qǐng)了政府、教會(huì)和城市的偉大和善良的人參加盛大的 kletorion 或招待會(huì)。 多少年來，《禮記》中的規(guī)定忠實(shí)地遵照了它們的編纂者康斯坦丁·波菲羅根塔斯的意圖？ 我們不知道。 在皇宮年的重大場合（并且有許多重大場合），每一個(gè)值得邀請(qǐng)的貴賓都被列出來。 每個(gè)忠誠的合唱都被指定。 歡樂的禮貌交流被規(guī)定用半被遺忘的拉丁語說，因?yàn)樗鼈円欢ㄒ呀?jīng)說過數(shù)百年了——拉丁語是用希臘字母拼寫的，以便司儀可以閱讀，即使他 不會(huì)明白的。

未完待續(xù)！