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(書籍翻譯)拜占庭的味道:傳奇帝國(guó)的美食 (第三十一部分)

2022-02-18 16:40 作者:神尾智代  | 我要投稿


封面

作者生平:

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達(dá)爾比(Andrew Dalby)是一位古典學(xué)者、歷史學(xué)家、語(yǔ)言學(xué)家和翻譯家,以他關(guān)于食物史(尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國(guó))的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達(dá)爾比的第一本美食書籍,獲得了 Runciman(朗西曼)獎(jiǎng),他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會(huì)年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium :The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP?記錄可從大英圖書館、美國(guó)國(guó)會(huì)圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂

Text 4 A Dietary Calendar

飲食日歷

The daily regimen involves not only the choice of foods and drinks but also their quantity and the frequency of meals: it involves exercise, sexual activity, baths, massage, the use and selection of soaps and lotions and other medicaments. All of these will vary depending on the climate and the seasons. It was therefore necessary to develop a general monthly regimen which anyone might follow, and that is the purpose of the Fourth and last of these dietary handbooks. The individual Byzantine reader, and most particularly the physician of any well-paying Byzantine patient, would naturally regard this as no more than a general guide, to be adjusted to the individual constitution.

Several versions of this 'Calendar' exist, some of them attributed to a certain Hierophilus the Sophist. This is a translation of the version published by Delatte in 1939. Other versions were published by Boissonade, in 1827, and by Ideler, in 1841-2 (see bibliography).

? ? ? ? ? 每天的養(yǎng)生之道不僅包括主食和飲料的選擇,還包括它們的數(shù)量和進(jìn)餐的頻率:它涉及運(yùn)動(dòng)、性活動(dòng)、洗澡、按摩、使用和選擇肥皂和其他洗劑以及其他藥物。所有這些都會(huì)因氣候和季節(jié)的變化而有所不同。因此,有必要制定一個(gè)任何人都可以遵循的尋常月度養(yǎng)生方案,這就是第四本也是最后一本飲食手冊(cè)的目的。個(gè)別拜占庭讀者,特別是任何醫(yī)治拜占庭病人的醫(yī)生,自然會(huì)認(rèn)為這不過(guò)是一個(gè)普通的指南,而且要根據(jù)個(gè)人體質(zhì)進(jìn)行調(diào)整。

? ? ? ? ? 這本 "日歷 "有幾個(gè)版本,其中一些是歸功于某位希羅菲勒斯(Hierophilus the Sophist)。這是德拉特在1939年出版的版本的翻譯。其他版本由Boissonade于1827年出版,由Ideler于1841-2年出版(見(jiàn)參考書目)。

[1] January

一月

January: sweet phlegm. Take three small doses of fine and very aromatic wine, but not too quickly. Take no food for three hours. Food should be roast lamb served hot, or roast sucking pig, and gravies spiced with pepper, spikenard and cinnamon; seasonings including Eastern caraway, pepper and spices; when roasting pork, baste it with honeyed wine; also eat pigs' trotters and head, jellied, with vinegar. Among birds, chickens, white and brakata pigeons (these are the best kinds) roasted, accompanied by spicy gravy and served hot; also quails and wrens: these if from the wild, being tough, should be well boiled and served hot. Among fish, sar [Diplodus Sargus], fried; also daurade, which like the preceding should be flavoured with spiced sauces. Among vegetables, cabbage and turnips, carrots, leeks, wild asparagus, butcher's broom, bryony shoots, to be dressed with olive oil and fish sauce; and their cooking liquor, to be drunk flavoured with spices. The cabbage is to be cooked with oil and fish sauce. Garlic suits all constitutions this month, cooked in pure olive oil. Those of robust constitutions may also take a 'dry soup',1 with pepper, spikenard, cinnamon, cloves, a little of the best storax, and just enough honey. Among garden herbs eat rocket, leek, celery and little radishes, also rue, mint and lovage. For dips use mustard, aloes, cumin and oinogaron. Among pulses, grass peas and Lathyrus Ochrus: they are to be seasoned with oil and ground cumin. Among fruits, raisins, almonds, pistachios and pine kernels; those of robust constitutions may take quince marmalade and a little lemon; pomegranate, pear, dates, cream blended with honey and spikenard and cinnamon, and durum wheat gruel.

Four baths in the course of the month; soap with sodium carbonate diluted in wine. Make a compound skin lotion by mixing 3 lb. weight aloes, I lb. myrrh, 2 egg yolks; combine these and Apply to the skin. This is the quantity per person. Apply it before you enter the bath,2 and have three bucketfuls [of water 1 poured over you, then sweat, then go into the open air and sponge the ointment off thoroughly. After washing the ointment off, rub down with cooling wine and egg yolks mixed with hot rose oil, then make love.

? ? ? ? ? 一月:甜痰。服用三份小劑量的精細(xì)和非常芳香的葡萄酒,但不要太急。三小時(shí)內(nèi)不要再次進(jìn)食。可以吃些烤羊肉,或烤乳豬,配上用胡椒、辣子和肉桂調(diào)味的肉汁;調(diào)味品包括東方的薺菜、胡椒和其他香料;烤豬肉時(shí),用蜂蜜酒澆在肉上烤;還可以吃些用醋腌制的豬蹄和豬頭肉。禽鳥類中,雞、白鴿和布拉卡塔鴿(這些是最好的種類)燒烤,伴有辛辣的肉汁,趁熱吃;還有鵪鶉和鷦鷯:這些如果是野生的,肉質(zhì)很硬,應(yīng)該好好煮一下再吃。魚類中,有油炸的Sar[Diplodus Sargus];還有daurade,和前面的一樣,可以用香料醬汁來(lái)調(diào)味。蔬菜中,卷心菜和蘿卜、胡蘿卜、韭菜、野蘆筍、假葉樹、牡丹的嫩芽,要用橄欖油和魚醬調(diào)味;它們的烹飪液,要用香料調(diào)味后再飲用。卷心菜要用油和魚露烹調(diào)。本月大蒜適合所有體質(zhì)的人,用純橄欖油烹調(diào)。體質(zhì)強(qiáng)健的人也可以服用 "干蘇打 ",加入胡椒、辣根、肉桂、丁香、少量的最好的石蠟,以及足夠多的蜂蜜。在花園里的草藥中,可以吃rocket、韭菜、芹菜和小蘿卜,還有蕓香、薄荷和野菜。蘸上芥末醬,配上蘆薈、小茴香和油菜。在豆類中,草豆和花園香豌豆:它們要用油和小茴香粉調(diào)味。在水果中,有葡萄干、杏仁、開心果和松子;體質(zhì)強(qiáng)健的人可以吃榅桲果醬和少量檸檬;石榴、梨、棗、奶油與蜂蜜、刺五加和肉桂混合,以及杜倫麥粥。

? ? ? ? ? 在一個(gè)月內(nèi)洗四次澡;用葡萄酒稀釋的碳酸鈉做的肥皂。將3磅重的蘆薈、1磅沒(méi)藥、2個(gè)蛋黃混合在一起,制成復(fù)合護(hù)膚液;將這些東西混合起來(lái),涂在皮膚上。這是每個(gè)人的用量。在入浴前涂抹它,并將三桶水倒在你身上,并用海綿將藥膏徹底洗掉。洗掉藥膏后,用涼酒和蛋黃混合熱玫瑰油擦拭,然后那啥(上面有原文,自己理解,之前沒(méi)過(guò)審,屮)。

蕓香

[2] February

二月

During this month no beet and no wild vegetables must be eaten at all, and among fish no corkwings, and no vegetable soups must be drunk except leek, celery, dill and garlic. Sauces and spices and old and aromatic wines should be taken in moderation. Meats may be eaten as in the previous list, also so-called crustacea, including oysters, crabs, lobsters, mussels, scallops and the like. Among fish, groupers, wrasses, sparaillons, parrot-wrasses, stromataioi, gobies; flavour with mustard. Dips and fruits as for January. Garden herbs and vegetables as for January; also baths, ointments and love-making as prescribed above.

? ? ? ? ? 在這個(gè)月里,根本不能吃甜菜和野菜,在魚類中也不能吃軟木魚;除了韭菜、芹菜、蒔蘿和大蒜,不能喝蔬菜湯。醬汁和香料以及老酒和芳香葡萄酒應(yīng)適量服用。肉類可以像前面的清單一樣食用,還有所謂的甲殼類動(dòng)物,包括牡蠣、螃蟹、龍蝦、貽貝、扇貝等。魚類中,石斑魚、鸚鵡螺、石斑魚、蝦虎魚;用芥末調(diào)味。蘸醬和水果同1月份的做法?;▓@里的草藥和蔬菜同一月一樣;還有上述規(guī)定的沐浴、藥膏和那啥(這里也是,看原文)。

石斑魚

[3] March

三月

Sweet flavours are advisable in food and drink, but in moderation: all excess is inimical to health, but small quantities are safe. Sour and bitter foods should be avoided. All kinds of fish may be eaten except those without scales; bass and grey mullet may be eaten frequently. Among pulses, emmer groats well boiled, rather watery, flavoured with honey, spikenard and cinnamon, eaten with the most aromatic of wine. Soak broad beans and boil them thoroughly with salt and good green olive oil. Also take fenugreek seed, well boiled, cold, seasoned with honey, spikenard and cinnamon; you should wash the fenugreek, rub it in the hands, then boil it until partly boiled down. If it boils down completely it becomes indigestible, constipating and bad for the bowels, but if it is not fully boiled down the same liquor, with the same bitterness, does not block the bowels. Honey will relieve its bitterness. Grass peas and Lathyrus Ochrus, ground; those with robust constitutions may take black-eyed peas, well boiled, with honey vinegar. Among vegetables eat beet, mallow, orach and all kinds of asparagus and mushroom, but not bryony or butcher's broom shoots, because these are bitter. Among conserves eat green olives in brine [kolymbadesl and olives in honey vinegar, but only from time?to time. Sour foods should not be eaten, only sweet. Among fruits those already listed, with dates as wanted. Your sweet wine should be konditon including pepper, cinnamon, spikenard and cloves.

Six baths in the course of the month: for three of these, on Tuesdays, anoint with oil but no myrrh or aloes; for the other three, wash with water, on Fridays. Light, aromatic wines of the colour of olive oil. Moderate sex.

? ? ? ? ? 食物和飲料中的甜味是可取的,但要適度:過(guò)量都不利于健康,但少量是安全的。應(yīng)避免食用酸味和苦味食物。除了沒(méi)有鱗片的魚,各種魚都可以吃;鱸魚和灰烏魚可以經(jīng)常吃。在豆類中,艾瑪糝煮熟后,比較水靈,用蜂蜜、穗花和肉桂調(diào)味,與最芳香的酒一起食用。蠶豆浸泡后用鹽和上好的綠色橄欖油徹底煮熟。還可以取葫蘆巴種子,充分煮熟,用蜂蜜、刺五加和肉桂調(diào)味涼拌;你應(yīng)該把葫蘆巴洗干凈,在手上揉搓,然后把它煮到部分爛。如果它完全煮沸,就會(huì)變得難以消化、便秘和對(duì)腸道有害,但如果它沒(méi)有完全煮沸,配上同樣的酒,保持同樣的苦味,就不會(huì)阻塞腸道。蜂蜜可以緩解其苦味。草豆和花園香豌豆,磨碎;體質(zhì)強(qiáng)健的人可以吃黑眼豆,煮熟后加蜂蜜醋。在蔬菜中,可以吃甜菜、錦葵、蘭花、各種蘆筍和蘑菇,但不要吃荊棘或肉桂的嫩芽,因?yàn)檫@些都是苦的。在蜜餞中,可以吃泡在鹽水中的綠橄欖[kolymbadesl]和蜂蜜醋中的橄欖,但只能時(shí)不時(shí)地吃。酸的食物不能吃,只能吃甜的。在水果中,要吃已經(jīng)列出的那些,還要多吃棗。你的甜酒應(yīng)該是konditon(一種傳統(tǒng)的古羅馬和拜占庭美食中的香料酒,拉丁語(yǔ)大致翻譯成“五香酒”),包括胡椒、肉桂、刺山柑和丁香。

? ? ? ? ? ?一個(gè)月內(nèi)要洗六次澡:其中三次,在周二,用油涂抹,但不要用沒(méi)藥或龍葵;另外三次,在周五,用水洗,配上淡淡的、芳香的葡萄酒,顏色如橄欖油。要保持適度的那啥(這里也是,看原文,不然過(guò)不了審)。

[4] April

四月

This month one should avoid radishes, mint, capers, pepper, basil, savory and all bitter flavours. Among meats choose those that are rich and well-fleshed: lambs that are grass-fed, not suckling, but that have been suckled by their mothers, and they may be young males or castrated; suckling kids: lean meat well boiled. With this take gravy moderately spiced with spikenard, green coriander and a little pepper, and the fruit of safflower because it relaxes the bowels. Avoid pork. Among birds, eat hens, male chickens, white pigeons, ducks and geese; lean meat well boiled. With this take gravy moderately [spiced]. Serve sweetened, while still hot. Sweet food and sweet drinks are the rule. Among fish, bass, syakia, daurade, pagre in a little well-spiced sauce; wrasse, perch, gurnard, scad, oblade, and to speak simply all tender-fleshed scaly fish are to be eaten fried, with a little spiced sauce, no excessive quantity. Avoid all dried pulses, but fresh pulses may be eaten with the meats listed above. Among vegetables eat orach, dill and coriander, all green, and lettuce, which requires moderate dressing in squill vinegar. I Also eat boiled garlic cloves with olive oil and salt, and a little leek. Avoid all dried fruits. Drink highly aromatic, anise-flavoured, and white wines.

Inhale the scents of violets, roses, lilies, wild chamomile and all aromatic flowers, and among 'dry' scents those of musk and attar?of roses. Moderate love-making. Eight baths in the course of the month; soap with Gallic soap. Apply a skin lotion once in the month, with no aloes; it should contain musk, three egg yolks and rose oil.

? ? ? ? ? 這個(gè)月應(yīng)該避免吃蘿卜、薄荷、辣椒、羅勒、咸菜和所有苦味的食物。在肉類中要選擇那些營(yíng)養(yǎng)豐富和肉質(zhì)好的:用草喂養(yǎng)的羔羊,不是哺乳期的,而是被母親哺乳過(guò)的,它們可以是年輕的雄性羔羊或閹割過(guò)的羊;哺乳期的羊:煮熟的瘦肉。瘦肉要用辣子、綠香菜和少量胡椒粉適量調(diào)味,還有紅花的果實(shí),因?yàn)樗梢苑潘赡c胃。要避免吃豬肉。在禽鳥類中,可以吃母雞、雄雞、白鴿、鴨子和鵝;瘦肉要煮熟,肉汁要適量[加香料]。趁熱上桌,可以加一些糖。甜的食物和飲料是餐桌上的必需品。魚類中,鱸魚、西雅圖魚、達(dá)拉德魚、帕格魚加少許調(diào)好的醬汁;瀨魚、鱸魚、古納德魚、斯卡德魚、奧拉德魚,簡(jiǎn)單地說(shuō),所有肉嫩有鱗的魚都要炸著吃,加少許調(diào)好的醬汁,不要過(guò)多。避免食用所有干豆類,但新鮮豆類可與上述肉類一起食用。在蔬菜中,可以吃橙子、蒔蘿和香菜,都是綠色的,還有生菜,需要用乳酪醋適量拌勻。還可以吃用橄欖油和鹽煮的大蒜瓣,以及少量韭菜。避免食用所有干果。適當(dāng)喝些高度芳香的、有茴香味的白葡萄酒。

? ? ? ? ? 聞一聞紫羅蘭、玫瑰、百合、野甘菊和帶有芳香的花朵的氣味,在 "干燥"的氣味中,可以嘗試聞一聞麝香和玫瑰花的芳香。適度的那啥(此處看原文)。在一個(gè)月內(nèi)洗八次澡;用高盧香皂洗浴。每月使用一次護(hù)膚液,不含蘆薈,而應(yīng)包含麝香、三個(gè)蛋黃和玫瑰油。

蒔蘿

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