Sukhothai or Sukhothai Historical Park was the former capital of the Kingdom of Sukhothai (1248-1438 CE), which was founded by King Si Inthrathit (r. 1238-1270 CE) and was the first in a series of independent polities that would eventually coalesce together to form what is present-day Thailand. Sukhothai is located in northeast Thailand and lies 12 km (7.5 miles) from the modern city of Sukhothai Thani and 430 km (280 miles) from Bangkok. At its height, Sukhothai was a magnificent, albeit, small city with elegant temples, palaces, stunning monuments, and waterways. The effervescence of culture in this city during the 13th and 14th centuries CE has left an indelible imprint on Thai art, language, and politics, and Sukhothai is still revered as the birthplace of Thai culture by Thais today. UNESCO declared Sukhothai and the neighboring ruins of Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet as a single UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991 CE.

? ? ? ? ?素可泰（素可泰歷史公園，Sukhothai Historical Park）是素可泰王國（公元1248年至1438年，泰國歷史上的首個有史料可以查證的王國）的古都，該王國由室利膺沙羅鐵（??????????????）建立，是一系列獨(dú)立政體中的第一個，這些政體最終匯聚在一起形成了今天的泰國。素可泰位于今泰國東北部，距離現(xiàn)代城市素可泰他尼 12 公里（7.5 英里），距離曼谷 430 公里（280 英里）。在其鼎盛時期，素可泰是一座宏偉的城市，盡管規(guī)模不大，卻擁有高雅的寺廟、宮殿、令人驚嘆的紀(jì)念碑和水道。公元 13 世紀(jì)和 14 世紀(jì)期間，這座城市文化的蓬勃發(fā)展給泰國的藝術(shù)、語言和政治留下了不可磨滅的印記，如今素可泰仍被泰國人視其為泰國文化的發(fā)源地。公元 1991 年，聯(lián)合國教科文組織宣布素可泰和鄰近的Si Satchanalai（西撒查納來古城）和Kamphaeng Phet（甘烹碧）遺址合為聯(lián)合國教科文組織世界遺產(chǎn)。

素可泰的歷史

The historic city of Sukhothai is located in the modern province of Sukhothai in what is presently northeastern Thailand, near the Yom, which is one of the larger tributaries of the Chao Phraya River. In Sanskrit, Sukhothai means “Dawn of Happiness” or “Emergence of Joy.” Sukhothai was originally a small Khmer city in design and structure with Hindu temples and canals reminiscent of Angkor Wat. It is likely that the Khmer constructed this city at some point in either the 12th or early 13th century CE, and one can still find a few remains of older Khmer structures at Sukhothai. In the 11th, 12th, and 13th centuries CE, the northern and central regions of what is present-day Thailand received an influx of people from what is now south-central China: the Tai.

? ? ? ? ? 歷史名城素可泰位于現(xiàn)今泰國東北部的素可泰府，靠近湄南河較大的支流之一的雍河。在梵語中，素可泰（Sukhothai）的意思是“幸福的黎明”或“喜悅的涌動”。素可泰最初是一座高棉小城，從結(jié)構(gòu)和布局來看，這里的運(yùn)河和印度教寺廟讓人想起吳哥窟。高棉人很可能在公元 12 世紀(jì)或 13 世紀(jì)初的某個時期建造了這座城市，現(xiàn)在人們?nèi)匀豢梢栽谒乜商┱业揭恍┕爬系母呙藿ㄖz跡。公元 11、12 和 13 世紀(jì)，今天泰國的北部和中部地區(qū)涌入了大量來自中國中南部的傣族人。

These people intermarried with local inhabitants, like the Mon and Khmer people, and moved into the area in and around Sukhothai. (To outsiders, these people were known as “Siam,” from which the term “Siamese” is thus derived.) They established muang, tiny “city-states,” which were subordinate to Khmer rule. It is worth noting that these city-states formed a key juncture in history as the Khmer Empire began to decline after years of warfare with neighboring Champa in the late 12th century and early 13th century CE. A political vacuum in the region followed the death of Jayavarman VII (c. 1181-1218 CE), and the Tai quickly began to challenge Khmer political power in the region, asserting first autonomy and then complete independence from their Khmer overlords.

? ? ? ? ? 這些人與孟族和高棉族等當(dāng)?shù)鼐用裢ɑ?，遷入素可泰及其周邊地區(qū)。(外人稱這些人為“暹羅”，“暹羅人”一詞即由此而來）。他們建立了“城邦”（muang，勐，泰語：?????，在泰語中原本意思是擁有城墻的城鎮(zhèn)及其周邊的附屬村莊），隸屬于高棉統(tǒng)治。值得注意的是，在公元 12 世紀(jì)末和 13 世紀(jì)初，高棉帝國與鄰國占城 (Champa)連年征戰(zhàn)，開始走向衰落，而這些城邦正是歷史上的關(guān)鍵時刻。阇耶跋摩七世（Jayavarman VII，約公元 1181-1218 年）去世后，該地區(qū)出現(xiàn)了政治真空，泰族迅速開始挑戰(zhàn)高棉在該地區(qū)的政治權(quán)力，先是主張自治，然后完全脫離高棉統(tǒng)治。

In c. 1238 CE, King Si Inthrathit (also known in Thai as “Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao” and other through other honorifics) united several Thai polities under the control of Thai noblemen into a single kingdom under his suzerainty at the city of Sukhothai. (For this reason, the Thai see him as akin to the “founding father of the Thai nation.”) The exact circumstances of this event are shrouded in mystery and unfortunately historians only have fragments of broken stele and other partial records. What is known is that Si Inthrathit consolidated his rule and defended the Kingdom of Sukhothai against the Khmer. A younger son of Si Inthrathit, King Ram Khamhaeng (r. c. 1275-1298 CE), expanded the boundaries of the kingdom to the south and east, and formally adopted Theravada as Sukhothai's official religion. Ram Khamhaeng additionally sent envoys to China, helping to stimulate trade and enrich Sukhothai.

? ? ? ? ? 約公元 1238 年，泰國國王室利膺陀羅鐵（泰語中又稱“Pho Khun Bang Klanghao”，還有其他尊稱）將多個泰國政治實體統(tǒng)一在泰國貴族的控制之下，并將其置于自己的宗主權(quán)之下（因此，泰國人將他視為類似于“泰國建國之父”的人物）。這一事件的具體情況仍然籠罩在神秘之中，不幸的是，歷史學(xué)家只有破碎的石碑碎片和其他部分記錄。目前已知的是，室利膺陀羅鐵鞏固了自己的統(tǒng)治，并保衛(wèi)素可泰王國抵御高棉人。室利膺陀羅鐵的小兒子蘭甘亨（Ram Khamhaeng，約公元 1275-1298 年）將王國的疆域擴(kuò)展到南部和東部，并正式將上座部佛教作為素可泰的官方宗教。蘭甘亨還向中國派遣了使節(jié)，促進(jìn)了貿(mào)易，提升了素可泰的國力。

Sukhothai flourished over the next 150 years in large part due to its geographic location. Centered almost midway between the Khmer Empire to the southeast and the Burmese Kingdom of Pagan to the northwest, cosmopolitan Sukhothai thrived on commerce and patronage. Sukhothai and the neighboring city of Si Satchanalai (nowadays the Si Satchanalai Historical Park) became centers in the production and exportation of ceramics throughout Southeast Asia. While somewhat similar to Khmer stoneware or Vietnamese ceramics, the artisans of Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai produced pottery with a green-glaze ware, which attracted widespread admiration and can be found as far away as what is present-day Indonesia and the Philippines.

? ? ? ? ? 素可泰在接下來的 150 年里繁榮昌盛，很大程度上得益于其地理位置。素可泰位于東南部的高棉帝國和西北部的緬甸蒲甘王國（緬甸歷史上第一次統(tǒng)一全國的王朝）之間，國際化的素可泰通過貿(mào)易和贊助而繁榮。素可泰和鄰近的Si Satchanalai（西撒查納來古城）（今Si Satchanalai歷史公園）成為整個東南亞的陶瓷生產(chǎn)與出口中心。雖然與高棉石器或越南陶瓷有些相似，但素可泰和Si Satchanalai（西撒查納來古城）的工匠們生產(chǎn)的綠釉陶器廣受贊譽(yù)，遠(yuǎn)在今天的印度尼西亞和菲律賓都能找到遺器。 ??

At the end of the 1300s CE, Sukhothai was one of the largest centers of Buddhism in the world. The successors of Sir Inthrathit and Ram Khamhaeng established beautiful Theravada temples and recruited Buddhist monks from afar to come and live in the city of Sukhothai. Of special note are King Lo Thai (r.c. 1298-1347 CE) and King Maha Thammaracha I or “Lu Thai” (r. 1347-1368 CE). Both were devout Buddhists and patrons of the arts who greatly enhanced the city's beauty through the construction of monumental architecture. During their reigns, a distinct style of Sukhothai art emerged, and Lu Thai wrote Thailand's most notable ancient work, the Traibhumikatha ("Sermon on the Three Worlds") in 1345 CE. Images of the Buddha, as reflected in sculpture or painting, became highly stylized and recognizable by virtue of their grace and elegance at Sukhothai. Sukhothai's temples as well delineate a certain ethereal grace with their bell-shaped stupas and lotus-bud finials. Architects and engineers came to Sukhothai to build exquisite monasteries of brick and decorated them with carved stucco.

? ? ? ? ? 到 14 世紀(jì)末，素可泰已成為世界上最大的佛教中心之一。室利膺陀羅鐵和蘭甘亨的繼任者建立了精美的上座部佛教寺廟，并從遠(yuǎn)方招募佛教僧侶來素可泰城居住。特別值得一提的是羅泰王（約公元 1298-1347 年）和曇摩羅阇一世（公元 1347-1368 年）。這兩位國王都是虔誠的佛教徒和藝術(shù)贊助人，他們通過建造紀(jì)念性建筑大大提升了城市的美感。在他們統(tǒng)治期間，素可泰藝術(shù)出現(xiàn)了一種獨(dú)特的風(fēng)格，曇摩羅阇一世于公元 1345 年寫下了泰國最著名的古代作品《Traibhumikatha》（三世布道）。在素可泰，反映在雕塑或繪畫中的佛像變得高度風(fēng)格化，并憑借其優(yōu)雅和高貴的氣質(zhì)而廣為人知。素可泰的寺廟也以鐘形佛塔和蓮花頂飾勾勒出某種空靈的優(yōu)雅。建筑師和工程師們來到素可泰，用磚砌成精美的寺院，并用雕刻灰泥加以裝飾。

Nonetheless, despite Sukhothai's wealth and fame, a rival Thai kingdom in the south challenged the city's political and cultural primacy in the region of present-day Thailand during the late 14th century CE: Ayutthaya (c. 1351-1757 CE). Lying on an island at the intersection of the Pa Sak, the Chao Phraya, and Lopburi Rivers and close to the Gulf of Thailand, the city of Ayutthaya grew quickly into the center of a vast kingdom that would ultimately absorb Sukhothai in 1438 CE. King Boromaracha I (r. 1370-1388 CE) was the first king of Ayutthaya to challenge Sukhothai, and subsequent kings from Ayutthaya gradually annexed or conquered territories belonging to Sukhothai. The later kings of Sukhothai acknowledged the supremacy of Ayutthaya in 1378 CE, and the kingdom became a province of Ayutthaya in 1438 CE. Inscriptions from Sukhothai in the late 14 and early 15th centuries CE attest to a city and a kingdom beset with internal strife between various noble families, which in large part explains the kingdom's rapid decline. There have been suggestions too that Sukhothai's fortunes fell drastically when the Yom River changed its course, and the production of agriculture in the vicinity of Sukhothai fell.

? ? ? ? ? 然而，盡管素可泰富甲天下，聲名遠(yuǎn)播，但在公元 14 世紀(jì)晚期，南部的一個泰國王國對素可泰的政治和文化地位提出了挑戰(zhàn)：阿瑜陀耶王國（阿育他亞王國、大城王國，約公元 1351-1757 年）。阿瑜陀耶王國位于帕薩克河（Pa Sak River）、湄南河和華富里河交匯處的一個小島上，靠近泰國灣，迅速發(fā)展成為一個龐大王國的中心，最終于公元 1438 年吞并了素可泰。波隆摩羅阇一世國王（Boromaracha I，公元 1370-1388 年）是阿瑜陀耶第一個挑戰(zhàn)素可泰的國王，隨后阿瑜陀耶的國王們逐漸吞并或征服了屬于素可泰的領(lǐng)土。后來的素可泰國王于公元 1378 年承認(rèn)了阿瑜陀耶至高無上的地位，并于 1438 年成為阿瑜陀耶王國的一個省。14 世紀(jì)末和 15 世紀(jì)初的素可泰碑文證明，當(dāng)時的素可泰城和素可泰王國飽受各貴族家族內(nèi)斗的困擾，這在很大程度上解釋了素可泰王國迅速衰落的原因。還有人認(rèn)為，當(dāng)贖罪河（泰語：????????）改變河道，素可泰附近的農(nóng)業(yè)生產(chǎn)下降時，素可泰的命運(yùn)也急劇下降。 ???

Sukhothai gradually diminished in population size and in cultural importance, although its prized ceramics continued to be produced in and around Si Satchanalai. Sukhothai suffered repeatedly over the centuries due to intermittent warfare between Ayutthaya and Burma from the 16th-18th centuries CE, and wars with the Burmese, King Naresuan of Ayutthaya (c. 1590-1605 CE) forced many of Sukhothai's residents to relocate closer to Ayutthaya as a result of depopulation. Modern interest in Sukhothai arose again after the defeat of Ayutthaya and the relocation of the Thai capital to Bangkok in 1782 CE. Thai kings and archaeologists came to Sukhothai to study and admire its ruins in the 1800s and 1900s CE. Many of Sukhothai's renowned statues and other works of art are now at the National Museum in Bangkok, Thailand.

? ? ? ? ? 素可泰的人口規(guī)模和文化重要性逐漸下降，但其珍貴的陶瓷仍在西撒查納來古城（Si Satchanalai）及其周邊地區(qū)生產(chǎn)。幾個世紀(jì)以來，素可泰因阿瑜陀耶國王納黎宣（約 1590-1605 年）在 16 世紀(jì)至 18 世紀(jì)間斷斷續(xù)續(xù)的戰(zhàn)爭而飽受苦難。由于與緬甸的戰(zhàn)爭，素可泰的許多居民因人口減少而被迫搬到離阿瑜陀耶更近的地方?，F(xiàn)代人對素可泰的興趣是在1782年阿瑜陀耶被擊敗以及泰國首都遷往曼谷。19世紀(jì)和20世紀(jì)，泰國國王和考古學(xué)家來到素可泰研究與欣賞其遺址。素可泰的許多著名雕像和其他藝術(shù)品現(xiàn)存于泰國曼谷的國家博物館。 ?

?素可泰遺址

Sukhothai is an impressive and monumental ancient Buddhist city that can only be rivaled in Southeast Asia by Angkot Wat in Cambodia, the Buddhist temples of Bagan in Myanmar (Burma), the Hindu temples of M? S?n in Vietnam, and the ruins of Borobudur and Prambanan in Indonesia. The ruins of Sukhothai in art and architecture reflect the diverse ancestry of the modern Thai people as one finds styles and artistics influences from the Mon, Tai and Khmer peoples. Stylistic overlay from ancient India and Sri Lanka are also quite evident at Sukhothai. The total area of the historic town of Sukhothai is 11, 852 ha of which Sukhothai comprises 7,000 ha., Si Satchanalai comprises 4,514 ha., and Kamphaeng Phet comprises 338 ha.

? ? ? ? ? 素可泰是一座令人印象深刻、具有紀(jì)念意義的佛教古城，只有東南亞能與之媲美柬埔寨吳哥窟、緬甸蒲甘佛教寺廟、越南的美山印度教寺廟以及印度尼西亞的婆羅浮屠和普蘭巴南遺址。素可泰遺址的藝術(shù)和建筑反映了現(xiàn)代泰國人祖先的多樣性，人們可以看到來自孟族、泰族和高棉族的風(fēng)格和藝術(shù)影響。來自古印度和斯里蘭卡的風(fēng)格重疊在素可泰也相當(dāng)明顯。素可泰歷史古城的總面積為11852公頃，其中素可泰占7000公頃，西撒查納來古城（Si Satchanalai）占4514公頃，甘烹碧（Kamphaeng Phet）占338公頃。

Large city walls running 2 km around Sukhothai once acted as a buffer from invading armies, and there were also three earthen ramparts and two large canals (or moats) that encircled the city. 20 medieval temples (Thai: wat) and countless monuments lie within the historic city of Sukhothai, the most impressive of which is undoubtedly the Wat Mahathat, which contains a statue of the Buddha, an old temple, and ornamental pond. Other structures of special interest include Wat Si Sawai, which is one of Sukhothai's oldest temples founded by the Khmer and dates from the late 12th century or early 13th century CE, and the 13th-century CE Wat Si Chum temple, which contains the largest Buddha image in Sukhothai and measures 15 m (49 ft) high and 11 m (36 ft) wide.

? ? ? ? ? 素可泰周圍 2 公里長的城墻曾經(jīng)是抵御入侵軍隊的屏障，城市周圍還有三座土墻和兩條大運(yùn)河（或護(hù)城河）。素可泰古城內(nèi)有 20 座中世紀(jì)寺廟（泰語：wat）和數(shù)不清的古跡，其中最令人印象深刻的無疑是瑪哈泰寺，寺內(nèi)有一尊佛像、一座古廟和一個觀賞池。其他具有特殊意義的建筑包括西沙瓦寺（Wat Si Sawai），它是素可泰最古老的寺廟之一，由高棉人建造，可追溯到公元 12 世紀(jì)末或 13 世紀(jì)初；還有公元 13 世紀(jì)的 西昌寺（Wat Si Chum），寺內(nèi)有素可泰最大的佛像，高15米（49英尺），寬11米（36英尺）。 ??

A unique facet of Sukhothai that is little known or commented on is its amazing accomplishment in hydraulic engineering. The medieval inhabitants of Sukhothai created reservoirs, canals, and sophisticated dams, which permitted increased control of waters during times of drought or flooding. The management of water on a large scale helped Sukhothai's farmers and merchants carry out a variety of activities of an agricultural, commercial, and ritual nature. This, in turn, lead to greater prosperity and more social harmony in the city of Sukhothai.

? ? ? ? ? 素可泰有一個獨(dú)特的方面，鮮為人知或很少被談?wù)?，那就是它在水利工程方面取得的驚人成就。中世紀(jì)的素可泰居民修建了水庫、運(yùn)河和復(fù)雜的水壩，以便在干旱或洪水泛濫時加強(qiáng)對水域的控制。對水的大規(guī)模管理有助于素可泰的農(nóng)民與商人開展各種農(nóng)業(yè)、商業(yè)和祭祀活動。這反過來又促進(jìn)了素可泰城的繁榮與社會和諧。

素可泰的遺產(chǎn)

In the 19th century CE, Thais came to see Sukhothai as the first flowering of Thai culture and an important place in their cultural consciousness. Although the city of Sukhothai flourished for just under 200 years, it undoubtedly left an enduring mark on the subsequent course of Thai history and certainly Thai culture as well. When one thinks of the Thai alphabet, Thai architecture, and Thai sculpture, it is important to realize that they all had their genesis at Sukhothai. Thai school children still memorize the lines from a famous stone inscription that dates to c. 1298 CE and evokes Sukhothai's prestige:

? ? ? ? ? This land of Sukhothai is thriving. There are fish in the water and rice in the fields. The lord of the realm does not levy toll on his subjects. They are free to lead their cattle or ride their horses and to engage in trade; whoever wants to trade in elephants, does so; whoever wants to trade in horses, does so; whoever wants to trade in silver and gold, does so.

? ? ? ? ? 公元 19 世紀(jì)，泰國人開始將素可泰視為泰國文化的第一個綻放之地，并在其文化意識中占據(jù)重要地位。雖然素可泰城只繁榮了不到 200 年，但毫無疑問，它在隨后的泰國歷史進(jìn)程及其文化中留下了持久的印記。當(dāng)人們想到泰語字母表、泰式建筑和泰式雕塑時，必須意識到它們都起源于素可泰。泰國學(xué)校的學(xué)生至今仍能背誦約公元 1298 年的著名石刻碑文，該碑文喚起了素可泰曾經(jīng)的威望：

? ? ? ? ? 這片土地欣欣向榮。水里有魚，田里有稻。君主不向臣民征收貢賦。臣民可以自由地放牧、騎馬和從事貿(mào)易；誰想交易大象，就交易大象；誰想交易馬匹，就交易馬匹；誰想交易金銀，就交易金銀。 ?

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原文作者：James Blake Wiener

原文網(wǎng)址: https://www.worldhistory.org/Sukhothai/