作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達(dá)爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學(xué)者、歷史學(xué)家、語言學(xué)家和翻譯家，以他關(guān)于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達(dá)爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎(jiǎng)，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會(huì)年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會(huì)圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂? ?

Chapter 3

Foods and Markets of Constantinople

君士坦丁堡的食品和市場

?

The market of Constantinople

君士坦丁堡的市場

Although less extensive than the old Roman Empire, for many centuries the territories of the New Rome continued to form the largest political unit in the Mediterranean world. The trade and tribute of this great and varied empire still made its way to Constantinople, as observed by Bartolf of Nangis, a participant in the First Crusade: 'The citizens are continually supplied with all their needs by busy seaborne trade. Cyprus, Rhodes, Mytilene, Corinth and many islands minister to the city; Achaea, Bulgaria and Greece labour to satisfy it, and send it all their finest produce. The cities of Romania, in Asia and Europe and Africa, never cease to send it their gifts. Much external trade also came this way. The produce of the Black Sea, the Sea of Azov and the great Russian rivers flowed to Constantinople, including such delicacies as salt or smoked sturgeon and - first mentioned in late medieval sources - caviar. Along eastern trade routes, making contact with the Byzantine world by way of Trebizond, Mosul, Edessa and Alexandria, rare spices and aromatics reached Constantinople, and these included several exotic oriental aromas that had been unknown or very little known in the Mediterranean world before Byzantine rimes. One such is moskhos 'musk： which Simeon Seth with fair accuracy says came from 'a city called Toupat some way east of Khwarezm'：in other words, it came from Tibet. Others are maker 'mace', moskhokaryon 'nutmeg', santalon 'sandalwood', xylaloe 'aloeswood’.

? ? ? ? ? 盡管沒有舊羅馬帝國那么廣闊，但多個(gè)世紀(jì)以來，新羅馬繼續(xù)發(fā)展成地中海世界最大的政治單位。正如第一次十字軍東征的參與者，南吉斯的巴托爾夫所說，這個(gè)龐大而多樣化的帝國的貿(mào)易和其他國家的貢品仍然流向君士坦丁堡：“繁忙的海上貿(mào)易不斷滿足公民的所有需求。塞浦路斯、羅得島、米蒂利尼、科林斯和其他島嶼都為這座城市服務(wù)； Achaea、保加利亞和希臘在努力補(bǔ)給它，并將他們所有最好的產(chǎn)品送到君士坦丁堡。 位于亞洲、歐洲和非洲交界處的羅馬尼亞的城市，從未停止向它發(fā)送供養(yǎng)。很多對外貿(mào)易也是這樣來的。黑海、亞速海和偉大的俄羅斯河流的產(chǎn)品流向君士坦丁堡，包括鹽或熏鱘魚等美味佳肴，以及—— 在中世紀(jì)晚期的資料中首次提到——魚子醬。沿著東部貿(mào)易路線，通過特拉比松、摩蘇爾、埃德薩和亞歷山大港與拜占庭世界接觸，稀有的香料和芳香劑到達(dá)君士坦丁堡，其中包括幾種在拜占庭之前地中海世界不為人知或鮮為人知的異國東方香料。其中之一是 moskhos '麝香：Simeon Seth 相當(dāng)準(zhǔn)確地說，它來自“花剌子模以東某處名為圖帕特的城市”：換句話說，它來自西藏。其他是制造商'mace'，moskhokaryon'肉豆蔻'，santalon'檀香'，xylaloe'沉香木'。

Not surprisingly in view of its strategic position on the trade routes, Byzantion had been notable for its markets for many centuries before it was refounded as Constantinople. Xenophon, returning with the 'Ten Thousand' to Greece by way of the Black Sea coast, is the first observer to mention the market place of Byzantion. A little later the historian Theopompus, whose theme was the rise of Philip of Macedon, emphasized the unique character of this city.

? ? ? The Byzantians had long been democratic; their city was a port of call; its people all spent their time at the market and the harbour, and were dissipated and accustomed to meeting and drinking in taverns. The Kalkhedonians used not to be a part of that democracy, and in those days devoted themselves to employments and the better life; once they tasted the Byzantine democracy they were ruined by luxury. Previously very sensible and moderate in their daily life, they now became drunkards and spendthrifts.

? ? ? ? ? 毫不奇怪，鑒于其在貿(mào)易路線上的戰(zhàn)略地位，拜占庭在重建為君士坦丁堡之前的多個(gè)世紀(jì)以來一直以其市場而聞名。 色諾芬?guī)е耙蝗f人”從黑海沿岸返回希臘，是第一個(gè)提到拜占庭市場的觀察者。 不久之后，以馬其頓菲利普的崛起為主題的歷史學(xué)家 Theopompus 強(qiáng)調(diào)了這座城市的獨(dú)特性。

? ? ? ? ? 拜占庭人長期以來一直是民主的。他們的城市是?？扛郏凰墓穸荚谑袌龊透劭诙冗^他們的時(shí)間，并習(xí)慣于在小酒館里見面和喝酒。 Kalkhedonians 過去不屬于那個(gè)民主國家，在這些日子里，他們致力于就業(yè)和更好的生活。 一旦他們嘗到了拜占庭式的民主，他們就被奢侈毀掉了。 以前在日常生活中非常理智和溫和的他們，現(xiàn)在變成了酒鬼和揮霍者。

Whatever we make of the prejudices that underlie Theopompus's argument, his view of Byzantion as principally a trading centre is accurate, and it was a character that Constantinople retained. By the time of Justinian we know that the Mese, the 'Middle Street' that ran through the city from east to west, was a busy daily market - and that 'more than 500 prostitutes' conducted their business there according to Procopius. The Book of the Eparch has already been mentioned: this decree of Leo the Wise, compiled about 895, regulated the trading guilds of Constantinople and thus provides a good deal of information about retail trade there.

? ? ? Grocers may keep their shops anywhere in the City, in the broad streets and in the city blocks, so that the necessities of life may be easily procurable. They shall sell meat, salt fish, gut, cheese, honey, oil, legumes of all kinds, butter, solid and liquid pitch, cedar oil, hemp, linseed, gypsum, crockery, storage jars, nails, and in short every article which can be sold by steelyard and not by scales. They shall not sell any article which belongs to the trade of perfumers, soap-merchants, drapers, taverners or butchers……

? ? ? ? ? 無論我們?nèi)绾慰创龢?gòu)成 Theopompus 論點(diǎn)的偏見，他認(rèn)為拜占庭主要是一個(gè)貿(mào)易中心是正確的，而且君士坦丁堡保留了這個(gè)角色。到查士丁尼時(shí)代，我們知道 Mese，即從東到西貫穿城市的“中街”，是一個(gè)繁忙的日常市場——據(jù) Procopius 說，“超過 500 名妓女”在那里開展業(yè)務(wù)。大紀(jì)元之書已經(jīng)被提及：

? ? ? ? ? 雜貨商可以在城市的任何地方、寬闊的街道和城市街區(qū)開設(shè)他們的商店，這樣生活必需品就可以很容易地買到。他們將出售肉類、咸魚、內(nèi)臟、奶酪、蜂蜜、油、各種豆類、黃油、固體和液體瀝青、雪松油、大麻、亞麻籽、石膏、陶器、貯藏罐、釘子，總之所有可以按磅秤出售，不能按秤出售的都行。他們不得出售屬于調(diào)香師、肥皂商、布料商、小酒館或屠夫行業(yè)的任何物品……

The 'broad streets' of Contantinople, mentioned in the regulation just quoted, are a feature that it shared with medieval cities elsewhere. In Greek they are plateiai, a classical Greek name that was adopted into Latin very early and is linked with Italian piazza, French place and Spanish plaza, though in the West these words soon came to denote a square rather than a wide colonnaded street. The importance of these market streets in the everyday trade of Constantinople is specially noticed by two diplomatic travellers, an Arabic-speaking North African who arrived in 1332 and a Spanish diplomat who passed through the city in 1437. The former, Ibn Batuta, fulfilled a lifelong ambition to visit the historic metropolis when he succeeded in being chosen as one of the party that accompanied a Greek princess returning to her homeland from Central Asia. He writes thus:

? ? ? It is one of the customs among them that anyone who wears the king's robe of honour and rides on his horse is paraded through the city bazaars with trumpets, fifes and drums, so that the people may see him. This is most commonly done with the Turks who come from the territories of the sultan Uzbak, so that they may not be molested. In this way they paraded me through the bazaars.

? ? ? ? ? 剛剛引用的條例中提到的君士坦丁堡的“寬闊街道”是它與其他地方的中世紀(jì)城市共有的特征。在希臘語中，它們是plateiai（正方形），這是一個(gè)古典希臘名詞，很早就被拉丁語采用，與意大利廣場、法國地方和西班牙廣場有關(guān)，盡管在西方這些詞很快就表示廣場而不是寬闊的柱廊街道。兩位外交旅行者特別注意到這些市場街道在君士坦丁堡日常貿(mào)易中的重要性，一位講阿拉伯語的北非人于 1332 年抵達(dá)，一位西班牙外交官于 1437 年經(jīng)過這座城市。前任伊本·巴圖塔 (Ibn Batuta) 成功地被選為陪同希臘公主從中亞回國的一員，他實(shí)現(xiàn)了訪問這座歷史悠久的大都市的畢生抱負(fù)。他這樣寫道：

? ? ? ? ? 他們的風(fēng)俗之一是，凡身著王袍騎馬的人，都要吹著號角、長笛和鼓，在城市的集市上游行，讓人們看到他。這最常見于來自蘇丹烏茲巴克領(lǐng)土的土耳其人，以免受到騷擾。他們就這樣帶我穿過集市。

As becomes clearer from the following details of Ibn Batuta's narrative, these 'bazaars' are not yet the vast covered markets familiar from modern Istanbul, including the spice bazaar: they are open spaces, the plateiai or colonnaded streets of the early medieval city.

? ? ? One of the two parts of the city is called Astanbul: it is on the eastern bank of the river and includes the places of residence of the Sultan, his officers of state, and the rest of the population. Its bazaars and streets are spacious and paved with flagstones, and the members of each craft have a separate place, no others sharing it with them. Each bazaar has gates which are closed upon it at night, and the majority of the artisans and salespeople in them are women.

? ? ? ? ? 從 伊本·巴圖塔（Ibn Batuta）敘述的以下細(xì)節(jié)中，可以清楚地看出，這些“集市”還不是現(xiàn)代伊斯坦布爾熟悉的巨大的有蓋市場，包括香料集市：它們是開放空間，是中世紀(jì)早期城市的高臺或柱廊街道。

? ? ? ? ? 城市的兩個(gè)部分之一被稱為阿斯坦布爾：它位于河的東岸，包括蘇丹、他的國家官員和其他人口的居住地。 它的集市和街道都很寬敞，鋪著石板，每個(gè)工藝的成員都有一個(gè)單獨(dú)的地方，沒有其他人與他們共享。 每個(gè)集市晚上關(guān)閉大門，其中大多數(shù)工匠和推銷員是女性。

Incidentally, it is because the Golden Horn turns north-eastwards J.t its mouth - and because, as it happens, Ibn Batuta approached the city from the north - that he places Istanbul 'on the eastern bank' of this inlet. The other part of the city as he describes it consists of Galata and Pera, on the 'western', or rather northern, shore of the Golden Horn.

? ? ? ? ? 順便說一句，正是因?yàn)榻鸾菫硰钠涞淖彀娃D(zhuǎn)向東北方向——而且因?yàn)榕銮梢帘尽ぐ蛨D塔從北方接近了這座城市——他把伊斯坦布爾放在了這個(gè)入口的“東岸”。 正如他所描述的，這座城市的另一部分由加拉塔和佩拉組成，位于金角灣的“西部”，或者更確切地說是北部海岸。

A hundred years later came the visit of the Spanish emissary Pero Tafur. Outside the church of St Sophia, he observed, 'are big markets with shops where they are accustomed to sell wine and bread and fish, and more shellfish than anything else, since the Greeks are accustomed to this food ... Here they have big stone tables where both rulers and common people eat in public' and the last detail suggests that the hot street food so much enjoyed by Manuel I remained a special feature of Constantinople four centuries later.

? ? ? ? ? 一百年后，西班牙使者佩羅·塔弗爾來訪。 他觀察到，在圣索菲亞教堂外，“有大市場，那里有商店，他們習(xí)慣于出售葡萄酒、面包和魚，還有比其他任何東西都多的貝類，因?yàn)橄ＥD人已經(jīng)習(xí)慣了這種食物...... 統(tǒng)治者和普通民眾在公共場合用餐的石桌”，最后一個(gè)細(xì)節(jié)表明，曼努埃爾一世如此享受的街頭熱食，在四個(gè)世紀(jì)后這仍然是君士坦丁堡的特色。

'Fat milk-stuffed suckling kids are rich and nourishing above all other foods,' wrote Constantine Manasses (Moral Poem [9.62.638 Miller]). To those who cared for a varied diet, the range of meat available for purchase in the markets of Constantinople was very varied indeed. Among favoured game were gazelles of inland Anatolia, 'dorkades commonly called gazelia', recommended above all other game by Simeon Seth. There were also the wild asses, of which herds were maintained in imperial parks. They were - says Liutprand - the emperor's pride and joy, though he himself considered them in no way different from the domestic asses of Cremona, and felt sure that any predatory wolf would agree with him. Moreover, it was in Byzantine times that dried meat first became a delicacy in the region - a forerunner of the pastirma of modern Turkey.

? ? ? ? ? 康斯坦丁·馬納西斯（Constantine Manasses）寫道：“充滿脂肪的乳汁比其他所有食物都豐富且營養(yǎng)豐富”。 對于那些喜歡多樣化飲食的人來說，君士坦丁堡市場上可供購買的肉類種類確實(shí)多種多樣。最受歡迎的是內(nèi)陸安納托利亞瞪羚，“通常稱為瞪羚的多爾卡德羚羊”，Simeon Seth 最推薦的其他肉類。 還有野驢，它們被成群地飼養(yǎng)在皇家公園里。柳特普蘭德說，它們是皇帝的驕傲和喜悅之源，盡管他自己認(rèn)為它們與克雷莫納的家驢沒有任何不同，并且確信任何掠食性的狼都會(huì)同意他的看法。此外，正是在拜占庭時(shí)代，干肉首次成為該地區(qū)的美食——現(xiàn)代土耳其的前身。

At this period, and for many years before and after, the central cattle and sheep market of Constantinople was en to Strategio 'at the Commandery’.

? ? ? Butchers must not wait at Nicomedia or other cities for the foreign dealers who come to sell flocks of sheep: they must go to meet them beyond the river Sangarios, so that they will get the meat cheaper. [Local] people who keep sheep are to sell their animals to the appointed butchers and deal through them alone. They are not to hinder country people from coming to town to sell sheep.

? ? ? ? ? 在此期間，以及前后多年，君士坦丁堡的中央牛羊市場一直處于“司令部”的戰(zhàn)略地位。

? ? ? ? ? 屠夫不能在尼科梅迪亞或其他城市等外國商人來賣羊群（賣給屠夫）：他們必須去桑加里奧斯河那邊接他們，這樣他們才能買到更便宜的肉。[本地]養(yǎng)羊的人將他們的動(dòng)物賣給指定的屠夫，并單獨(dú)處理。他們并不是要阻止鄉(xiāng)下人進(jìn)城賣羊。

The swine market, oddly enough, was en to Tauro 'at the Bull'. This meeting-place played an extra part as the centre of sales of spring lamb, a favourite luxury, between Easter and Whitsunday - and was, as it were, prepared for its special spring role by way of a ceremony in which the emperor was welcomed to 'the Bull' with songs of praise on the Feast of the Apostles on the Tuesday after Easter.

? ? ? All those who buy, slaughter and sell swine must do their business en to Tauro 'at the Bull'. Any tradesman who goes outside the City to meet the swineherds and buys from them there, and any who brings swine secretly into the City districts, and any who sells pork at an inflated price, is to be flogged, shaved, and expelled from the guild of pork butchers. Any who takes swine to a nobleman's house and sells them there privately is to be liable to the same punishment. The masters of the guild are to record the names of all swineherds who bring their animals into the city, so that they cannot sell pork to unofficial dealers. All sales must take place publicly en to Tauro.

? ? ? ? ? 奇怪的是，養(yǎng)豬市場對陶羅來說是“公?！?。 這個(gè)聚會(huì)場所在復(fù)活節(jié)和圣靈降臨節(jié)之間作為春季羔羊肉的銷售中心發(fā)揮了額外的作用，這是一種最受歡迎的奢侈品，并且可以說是通過一個(gè)歡迎皇帝的儀式來準(zhǔn)備其特殊的春季角色。在復(fù)活節(jié)后的星期二的使徒盛宴上，人們會(huì)用贊美的歌曲向“公?！敝戮?。

? ? ? ? ? 所有購買、屠宰和出售豬的人都必須在“公牛場”與 陶羅做生意。 商人出城見豬倌，向豬倌進(jìn)貨，偷帶豬進(jìn)城，高價(jià)賣豬肉，鞭笞剃毛，逐出行會(huì)。 豬肉屠夫。 任何人將豬帶到貴族家并私下出售，都將受到同樣的懲罰。 公會(huì)會(huì)長要記錄所有帶牲口進(jìn)城的豬倌的名字，這樣他們就不能把豬肉賣給非官方的經(jīng)銷商。 所有銷售都必須在 Tauro 公開進(jìn)行。

From 'the Bull' the emperor processed, on that same Feast of the Apostles, to the 'arch of the Bakers', en to phourniko ton artopolon. The same route is followed on other occasions; the two landmarks were close together. These bakers of Caonstantinople are the subject of quite special regulations in the Book of the Eparch compiled under Leo VI. The municipal regulations specify with great precision the price to be charged for bread, and also exempt the human and animal staff of bakeries ftom being commandeered for public service.

? ? ? Bakers shall sell bread by weight fixed from time to time according to the price of wheat, as ordered by the Eparch. They are to buy wheat in the Assistant's warehouse, in units corresponding to the amount on which a tax of one gold nomisma is payable. After grinding, proving and baking, they shall calculate the price by adding one keration and two miliaresia per gold nomisma: the keration being their profit, and the two miliaresia the cost of employing the men and the animals who do the milling, and also the cost of fires and lighting. Bakers are never liable to be called for any public service, neither themselves nor their animals, to prevent any interruption of the baking of bread. They must not have their ovens under any dwelling-house ...

? ? ? ? ? 從“公?！被实墼谕粋€(gè)使徒盛宴上加工，到“面包師拱門”，再到 phourniko ton artoplon。在其他場合也遵循相同的路線；兩個(gè)地方靠得很近。君士坦丁堡的這些面包師是利奧六世所編的《大紀(jì)元之書》中有著相當(dāng)特殊規(guī)定的職業(yè)。 市政法規(guī)非常精確地規(guī)定了面包的收費(fèi)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，并且免除了面包店的人力和動(dòng)物員工被征用為公共服務(wù)。

? ? ? ? ? 面包師應(yīng)根據(jù) Eparch 的命令，不時(shí)根據(jù)小麥價(jià)格按重量出售面包。 他們將在助手的倉庫中購買小麥，其單位對應(yīng)于應(yīng)繳納一金諾米瑪稅的金額。 研磨、發(fā)酵和烘烤后，他們將計(jì)算價(jià)格，每個(gè)金硬幣加上一個(gè) keration 和兩個(gè) miliaresia：keration 是他們的利潤，兩個(gè) miliaresia 是雇用進(jìn)行碾磨的人和動(dòng)物的成本，還有燒火和照明費(fèi)用。 面包師永遠(yuǎn)不會(huì)被要求提供任何公共服務(wù)，無論是他們自己還是他們的動(dòng)物，以防止面包烘烤的中斷。他們絕不能將烤箱放在任何住宅下......

The 1600 fishing boats of Byzantium (the statistic comes from the work of a historian of the fourth Crusade, Gunther of Pairis) were officially enjoined to bring in their daily catch each morning to piers and sea beaches within the city walls. The fishmongers were to buy them directly from the boats at anchor, to sell them to the public in one of several market streets through the city. Local fish was only to be sold fresh: salting for export was specifically forbidden, and the selling of offcuts was the regulation way to dispose of any surplus. Wholesale and retail prices were regulated on a daily basis depending on the size of the daily catch; the market inspectors as well as the state took their share. Two measures were supposed to keep the system working and remunerative. The masters of the fishmongers' guild were to go to the Eparch daily at daybreak to report the quantity of white fish brought in; and sale direct to the public from the fishing boats was forbidden. But we know that in practice there was an alternative source - a black market, perhaps. The Prodromic Poems, which may be legitimately taken as slices of Constantinopolitan life (albeit highly coloured) tell of a kephalos tripithamos augatos ek to Rygin, 'a grey mullet of three hands' breadths, with its roe, from Rygin'. Now this 'Rygin' is certainly Region, the first harbour west of Constantinople, just outside the city walls along the north coast of the Sea of Marmara. As confirmation of its status as an extramural (and presumably less-regulated) market for Constantinople we have the observations of Pierre Belon, who visited the city about a hundred years after the Turkish capture and reported that he found melca, caimac and oxygala - in other words, curds, clotted cream and yoghourt - on sale at this same place, 'the last harbour where Constantinople meets Thrace'. The word oxygala survives, slightly altered, in modern Greek xinogalo, which nowadays usually means 'buttermilk' but is also still used (I quote Diane Kochilas) as the name of 'a primitive, deliciously sour, yogurtlike cheese, made by placing raw buttermilk inside a sheepskin and agitating it over several days'. This kind of cheese, made from buttermilk, is specifically favoured by one of the Byzantine dietary authors (text 2 section x) - other cheeses, he states sweepingly, are 'all bad'.

? ? ? ? ? 拜占庭的 1600 艘漁船（該統(tǒng)計(jì)數(shù)據(jù)來自第四次十字軍東征的歷史學(xué)家，帕里斯的岡瑟）被正式下令每天早上將每天的漁獲量運(yùn)往城墻內(nèi)的碼頭和海灘。魚販將直接從停泊的船上購買它們，然后在穿過城市的幾條市場街道之一將它們出售給公眾。當(dāng)?shù)氐聂~只能賣新鮮的：鹽腌出口是被明確禁止的，出售邊角料是處理剩余部分的監(jiān)管方式。批發(fā)和零售價(jià)格根據(jù)每日漁獲量每天進(jìn)行調(diào)節(jié)；市場監(jiān)察員和國家都分擔(dān)了他們的責(zé)任。應(yīng)該采取兩項(xiàng)措施來保持系統(tǒng)正常運(yùn)行并獲得報(bào)酬。魚販行會(huì)的負(fù)責(zé)人每天天一亮就去大紀(jì)元報(bào)告白魚的數(shù)量。禁止從漁船上直接向公眾出售。但我們知道，實(shí)際上還有另一種來源——也許是黑市。 Prodromic Poems 可以合法地被視為君士坦丁堡生活的片段（盡管色彩豐富），它向 Rygin 講述了 kephalos tripithamos augatos ek，“一條三手寬的灰鯔魚，帶有魚子，來自 Rygin”?，F(xiàn)在這個(gè)'Rygin'肯定是某個(gè)地區(qū)，君士坦丁堡以西的第一個(gè)港口，就在馬爾馬拉海北海岸的城墻外。為了確認(rèn)其作為君士坦丁堡的校外市場（可能監(jiān)管較少）的地位，我們有皮埃爾·貝隆的觀察，他在土耳其被俘大約一百年后訪問了這座城市，并報(bào)告說他發(fā)現(xiàn)了 melca、caimac 和 oxygala - 在換句話說，凝乳、凝乳和酸奶——在同一個(gè)地方出售，“君士坦丁堡與色雷斯相遇的最后一個(gè)港口”。 “氧” 這個(gè)詞在現(xiàn)代希臘語“酸牛奶”中幸存下來，略有改變，現(xiàn)在通常意味著“酪乳”，但也仍然使用（我引用 黛安·科奇拉斯）作為“一種原始的、酸味可口的、類似酸奶的奶酪的名稱，通過放置生酪乳制成放在羊皮里，攪動(dòng)幾天”。這種由酪乳制成的奶酪特別受到拜占庭飲食作者之一的青睞（文本 2 第 x 節(jié)）——他一概而論地指出，其他奶酪“都不好”。

So the roofed bazaars of modern Istanbul, including the famous spice bazaar, do not trace their history directly to the medieval city. It was the Turkish conqueror, Mehmet II, in the course of his replanning and rebuilding of Constantinople in the mid fifteenth century, who 'ordered the building of a very large and fine market-place not far from the Palace, surrounded by strong walls, and arranged with beautiful and spacious arcades inside and a ceiling of ceramic tiles and translucent stone'. The same monarch, according to his eulogist, 'erected fine houses, inns, markets throughout the city'.

? ? ? ? ? 因此，現(xiàn)代伊斯坦布爾的屋頂集市，包括著名的香料集市，并沒有直接將其歷史追溯到這座中世紀(jì)城市。 十五世紀(jì)中葉，土耳其征服者穆罕默德二世在重新規(guī)劃和重建君士坦丁堡的過程中，“下令在離王宮不遠(yuǎn)的地方建造一個(gè)非常大而精美的市場，周圍環(huán)繞著堅(jiān)固的城墻， 并在內(nèi)部布置了美麗寬敞的拱廊和瓷磚和半透明石頭的天花板。 根據(jù)他的悼詞者的說法，同一位君主“在整個(gè)城市建立了精美的房屋、旅館和市場”。

未 完 待 續(xù) ！