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【簡譯】古代地中海地區(qū)的葡萄酒

2022-08-12 09:52 作者:神尾智代 0人讀過 | 我要投稿

古代地中海地區(qū) 的葡萄酒

Wine was the most popular manufactured drink in the ancient Mediterranean. With a rich mythology, everyday consumption, and important role in rituals wine would spread via the colonization process to regions all around the Mediterranean coastal areas and beyond. The Greeks institutionalised wine-drinking in their famous symposia drinking parties, and the Romans turned viticulture into a hugely successful business, so much so, that many of the ancient wine-producing territories still enjoy some of the highest reputations in the modern wine industry.

? ? ? ? ? ?葡萄酒是古代地中海地區(qū)最受歡迎的人造飲料。憑借豐富的神話故事、日常消費和在儀式中的重要作用，葡萄酒通過殖民化進程傳播到地中海沿岸地區(qū)及其他地區(qū)。希臘人在他們著名的座談飲酒聚會中將飲酒制度化，而羅馬人則把葡萄種植變成了一個非常成功的行業(yè)，以至于許多古代產(chǎn)酒地區(qū)至今仍然享有一些葡萄酒行業(yè)的最高聲譽。

葡萄?樹種植的傳播

The grape vine, which grows naturally in most geographical areas between 30° and 50° north with annual isotherms of 10-20 °C, was probably first cultivated (as vitis vinifera sativa) in the Caucasus region prior to the Neolithic period. From there the practice of pressing grapes into wine spread to the Near East and Mediterranean. Cultivated in Egypt, Mesopotamia, Phoenicia, and Mycenaean Greece, by the Classical period wine was an important feature of ritual and everyday life. As trade routes were established in the Mediterranean the consumption of wine and cultivation of vines spread from the Black Sea to the North African coast and along to the Iberian Peninsula. Winemaking thus became one of the most visible manifestations of cultural colonization in the ancient world. Indeed, viticulture became so successful in Gaul and Spain that, from the 1st century CE, they replaced Italy as the Mediterranean's major producers of wine. In Late Antiquity, vine-growing spread further to include suitable northern European regions such as Moselle in Germany.

? ? ? ? ? ?葡萄藤在北緯30度至50度之間的大多數(shù)地理區(qū)域自然生長，這些地區(qū)年等溫線為10-20℃；葡萄可能是在新石器時代之前的高加索地區(qū)首次栽培的（作為vitis vinifera sativa）。從那里，將葡萄壓榨成葡萄酒的做法傳到了近東和地中海地區(qū)。在埃及、美索不達米亞、腓尼基和邁錫尼、希臘都有種植，到了古典時期，葡萄酒是正式儀式和日常生活的一個重要特征。隨著地中海貿(mào)易路線的建立，葡萄酒的消費和葡萄樹的種植從黑海蔓延到北非海岸，并一直延伸到伊比利亞半島。因此，釀酒成為古代世界文化殖民化的最明顯的表現(xiàn)之一。事實上，葡萄種植在高盧和西班牙變得如此成功，以至于從公元1世紀(jì)開始，它們?nèi)〈艘獯罄蔀榈刂泻５貐^(qū)的主要葡萄酒生產(chǎn)國。在古代晚期，葡萄種植進一步擴散到有著合適條件的北歐地區(qū)，如德國的摩澤爾。

神話故事中的葡萄酒

According to Greek mythology, wine was invented by Dionysos (to the Romans Bacchus). The god generously gave Ikarios, a noble citizen of Ikaria in Attica, the vine tree. From this, Ikarios made wine, which he shared with a group of passing shepherds. However, unaware of the stupefying effects of wine, the shepherds thought they had been poisoned and so swiftly took revenge and killed the unfortunate Ikarios. Notwithstanding such an inauspicious start to the wine industry, this gift from the gods would become the most popular drink in antiquity.

? ? ? ? ? 根據(jù)希臘神話，葡萄酒是由狄奧尼索斯（對羅馬人來說是巴克斯）發(fā)明的。狄奧尼索斯慷慨地給阿提卡的伊卡里亞的貴族公民伊卡里奧斯一棵葡萄樹。伊卡里奧斯用它釀酒，與一群過路的牧羊人分享。然而，牧羊人不知道酒的迷醉作用，以為他們被毒死了，于是進行報復(fù)，殺死了不幸的伊卡里奧斯。盡管葡萄酒行業(yè)有這樣一個不吉利的開端，但這個來自神靈的禮物顯然已成為古代最受歡迎的飲品。

葡萄樹的種植

The Greeks, in particular, became passionate wine-drinkers, and so demand was always high. They knew that the three essentials of good soil, climate, and type of vine could combine to create differing varieties of grape and taste. While we know of many cultural practices and the mythology involving wine in the Greek world, it was the Romans who have left us the best descriptions of the process of making it.

? ? ? ? ? 希臘人是熱情的飲酒者，因此對葡萄酒的需求總是很高。他們知道，良好的土壤、氣候和葡萄樹的種類這三個基本要素可以結(jié)合起來，創(chuàng)造出不同的葡萄品種和口味。雖然我們知道希臘世界的許多文化習(xí)俗和涉及葡萄酒的神話，但羅馬人給我們留下了關(guān)于葡萄酒釀造過程的最佳記載。

Training vines to grow at the optimum height from the ground (which depends on local temperatures and wind), along a trellis if necessary, the optimum distance from each other, and regular pruning to strengthen the vine were all practices well-known to the Greeks. Vines could be left free-standing, supported with timber props, or even trained to grow up trees (especially the olive). This last method was prevalent in Roman vineyards with the best reputation for quality. Like most branches of agriculture, viticulture was a serious investment and profit margins could be slim indeed if wine was not produced on a large enough scale. As the Roman historian Varro put it, "there are those who claim that the cost of keeping up a vineyard swallows up the profit" (Bagnall, 7021).

? ? ? ? ? 設(shè)置葡萄樹生長在離地面的最佳高度（這取決于當(dāng)?shù)氐臏囟群惋L(fēng)力），必要時沿著棚架生長，彼此之間的最佳間隔距離，以及定期修剪以促進葡萄樹生長，這些都是希臘人熟知的做法。葡萄樹可以獨立存在，只需用木材支撐，甚至可以培育成樹狀（特別是橄欖樹）。最后一種方法在具有最佳質(zhì)量聲譽的羅馬葡萄園中很盛行。像大多數(shù)農(nóng)業(yè)部門一樣，葡萄種植是一項需嚴(yán)肅謹(jǐn)慎對待的投資，如果葡萄酒的生產(chǎn)規(guī)模不夠大，利潤率確實會很低。正如羅馬歷史學(xué)家瓦羅所說，"有人聲稱，維持葡萄園的成本往往會吞噬其所帶來的利潤"（Bagnall，7021）。

釀造葡萄酒

The ancients knew full well the value of fine wines and distinguished their production between new young wines for the masses or armies in the field and more mature wines for the connoisseur. Certain places quickly gained prestige as good winemakers, notably the Greek islands of Chios, Kos, Lesbos, Rhodes, and Thasos.

? ? ? ? ? 古人深知優(yōu)質(zhì)葡萄酒的價值，并將他們的生產(chǎn)區(qū)分為供大眾或軍隊在戰(zhàn)場上使用的新釀葡萄酒和供鑒賞家品嘗的更成熟的葡萄酒。某些地方很快就獲得了良好的釀酒聲譽，特別是希臘的希俄斯島、科斯島、萊斯波斯島、羅得島和塔索斯島。

In Italy, specific vineyards such as Caecuban and Falernian enjoyed a high reputation and were endorsed by such authors as Pliny the Elder, who wrote extensively on the subject. The Alban Hills near Rome, the region of Campania, and Northeast Italy were particularly noted for their quality wines. The industry became highly lucrative and regulations were imposed, as indicated in surviving inscriptions, concerning the sale of wine, its export, and guaranteed quality. Aside from large-scale producers, most estates would have had their own vineyards for private consumption. At Pompeii, for example, two-thirds of villas had vineyards.

? ? ? ? ? 在意大利，特定的葡萄園，如Caecuban和Falernian享有很高的聲譽，并得到了老普林尼等作家的認(rèn)可，他在這個問題上寫了大量的文章。羅馬附近的阿爾班山、坎帕尼亞地區(qū)和意大利東北部地區(qū)因其優(yōu)質(zhì)的葡萄酒而聞名。這個行業(yè)變得非常有利可圖，并且如現(xiàn)存的碑文所示，行業(yè)對葡萄酒的銷售、出口和保證質(zhì)量進行了規(guī)定。除了大型生產(chǎn)商之外，大多數(shù)莊園都有自己的葡萄園供私人消費。例如，在龐貝城，三分之二的別墅都有葡萄園。

Grapes were harvested and then pressed underfoot in large pottery vessels, baskets, stone vats, or on a simple tiled floor which sloped to a collecting channel. The process became more sophisticated with the invention of beam and weight presses which increased the crushing efficiency and which later evolved into even better screw presses from the 1st century CE.

? ? ? ? ? 葡萄被收割后，在大的陶器、籃子、石槽中，或在簡單的瓷磚地板上進行壓榨，地板上有一個傾斜的收集通道。隨著梁式壓榨機和重量式壓榨機的發(fā)明，這個過程變得更加復(fù)雜，但提高了壓榨效率；從公元1世紀(jì)開始，又演變成更好的螺旋壓榨機。

Many vineyards from the Greek islands added sea water to the pressed must to make the wine smoother and increase acidity. Wines were both white and red, the latter gaining its colour from leaving the mash (marc and must) longer before fully pressing out the juice. A redder colour was also achieved by ageing the wine over a few years and even exposing the wine to heat by storing it in lofts built above hearths.

? ? ? ? ? 許多來自希臘島嶼的葡萄園在壓榨出的葡萄汁中加入海水，以使葡萄酒更加順滑并增加了酸度。葡萄酒有白葡萄酒和紅葡萄酒之分，紅葡萄酒的顏色是在完全壓榨出果汁之前將酒泥（酒渣和葡萄汁）放置較長時間而獲得的。通過幾年的陳釀，或?qū)⒕苾Υ嬖诒跔t上方的閣樓上，使酒的顏色更紅。

Wine was fermented in large storage terracotta jars, typically set partially into the ground in open-roofed buildings which had walls with apertures to allow a cool movement of air. When ready, wine was then drained off and stored in clay amphorae for transportation, usually sealed with a clay stopper or resin. Those amphorae destined for export were usually stamped to indicate their origin. Wine was sold in markets and, in the Roman world, dedicated wine shops. The Romans most valued sweet white wines (which would have been much cloudier than today's wines due to the more primitive production process). The Carthaginians had a similar taste, producing a famous sweet white wine made from sun-dried grapes. Wine was considered best as a pure drink without additives, but sometimes more unscrupulous producers and sellers did add substances (anything from spices to honey) in order to disguise the taste of poor wine or wine which had passed its best.

? ? ? ? ? 葡萄酒是在大型的儲存陶罐中發(fā)酵的，通常是將陶罐部分鑲嵌在地面上的敞開式建筑中，這些建筑的墻壁上有孔隙，可以讓空氣流動。準(zhǔn)備好后，葡萄酒被排空并儲存在粘土陶罐中以便運輸，通常用粘土塞子或樹脂密封。那些用于出口的雙耳瓶通常會蓋上印章以表明其來源。葡萄酒在市場上出售，在羅馬世界，有專門的葡萄酒商店。羅馬人最看重的是甜白葡萄酒（由于生產(chǎn)過程比較原始，它比今天的葡萄酒要混濁得多）。迦太基人也有類似的口味，他們用曬干的葡萄釀制出了著名的甜白葡萄酒。葡萄酒被認(rèn)為是沒有添加劑的純飲品，但有時更無良的生產(chǎn)商和銷售商確實添加了一些物質(zhì)（從香料到蜂蜜等任何東西），以掩蓋劣質(zhì)葡萄酒或已過最佳狀態(tài)的葡萄酒的味道。

飲用葡萄酒

Wine was a common, relatively cheap, and everyday drink in both the Classical Greek and Roman cultures. It was drunk on its own and with meals. The Greeks diluted their wine with water (1 part wine to 3 parts water), although the Macedonians scandalously drank theirs neat. This dilution helped prevent excessive alcoholism, which was (at least by the elite) considered a trait of 'barbarian' foreign cultures and which was widely parodied in Greek comedy plays. Drunkenness also crops up in many Greek myths as an explanation for terrible and uncivilised behaviour such as the fight caused by the inebriated centaurs at the wedding of Perithous.

? ? ? ? ? 在古典希臘和羅馬文化中，葡萄酒是一種常見的、相對便宜的日常飲品。它可以單獨飲用，也可以在用餐時飲用。希臘人用水稀釋葡萄酒（1份酒配3份水）——盡管馬其頓人可恥地把他們的酒喝光了。這種稀釋有助于防止過度酗酒，過度酗酒被認(rèn)為是 "野蠻人"文化的特征，并在希臘喜劇中被廣泛模仿。醉酒也出現(xiàn)在許多希臘神話中，作為對可怕和不文明行為的解釋，如皮瑞蘇斯婚禮上醉酒的半人馬引起的戰(zhàn)斗。

Ancient authors warned of the dangers of drunkenness to both mind and body. Aristotle even wrote a treatise On Drunkenness (now lost) and Pliny the Elder famously noted that wine can reveal the truth (in vino veritas) but that such truths are usually better left unsaid. Such learned recommendations, though, doubtless went unheeded by common folk and did not stop such famous names as Alcibiades, Alexander the Great, and Mark Antony gaining a reputation as fierce wine drinkers.

? ? ? ? ? 古代作家警告說，醉酒對身心都有危險。亞里士多德甚至寫了一篇關(guān)于醉酒的論文（現(xiàn)已遺失），而老普林尼則指出，酒可以揭示真相（in vino veritas），但這種真相通常最好不要說出來。不過，這些有學(xué)問的建議無疑沒有得到普通人的重視，也沒有阻止阿爾西比阿德、亞歷山大大帝和馬克·安東尼等著名人物獲得過度飲酒的“聲譽”。

Wine was drunk on social occasions such as the Greek symposium, or drinking party, where elite male citizens would discuss politics and philosophy and be entertained by musicians and courtesans (hetairai). Special drinking vessels developed such as the shallow stemmed kylix which could easily be lifted from the floor by a drinker reclining on a couch. Large pottery vessels known as kraters were made so that wine could be easily mixed with water. The Roman equivalent to the symposium was the convivium where respectable women were added to the guest list and food had a greater emphasis.

? ? ? ? ? 在社交場合，如希臘的座談會或飲酒聚會上，精英男性公民會討論政治和哲學(xué)，并得到音樂家和交際花（hetairai，古希臘妓女的一種）的招待。特殊的飲酒器皿得到了發(fā)展，如淺柄的凱利克斯（kylix），它可以讓躺在沙發(fā)上的飲酒者輕松地從地板上舉起。被稱為克拉特的大型陶器，能讓酒與水更好地混合。與座談會相對應(yīng)的是羅馬人的 "聚會"（convivium），在聚會中，有身份的婦女被加入到客人名單中，食物的種類也更加受到重視。

Besides being a tasty drink and social lubricant wine had other functions such as in the pouring of libations to the gods in religious ceremonies. Wine, often healthier than unreliable sources of water, was also sometimes prescribed as a medicine by ancient doctors. This remedy was to be taken in moderation, though, as the ancients early identified the dangers of excessive drinking including insomnia, memory loss, a distended stomach, character changes, and early death. Wine was a gift from the gods but not to be over-indulged in or one would end up meeting them earlier than one hoped.

? ? ? ? ? 除了作為一種美味的飲品和社交潤滑劑，葡萄酒還有其他功能，如在宗教儀式上向神靈澆灌酒水。葡萄酒通常比不可靠的水源更健康，有時也被古代醫(yī)生作為一種藥物處方。不過，這種補救措施要適度，因為古人很早就發(fā)現(xiàn)了過量飲酒的危險，包括失眠、記憶喪失、胃部膨脹、性格改變和早逝。酒是諸神賜予的禮物，但不能過度沉迷，否則就會提前與諸神相遇。