盤古開天地，女媧摶土造人，第一張披身的毛羽，第一枚骨針，第一架紡輪，“冬日麑裘，夏日葛衣”，“伏羲化蠶為穗帛”……源遠(yuǎn)流長的中華服飾文化自此起始。

Pangu created the world, ?Nuwa kneaded the soil?to create men. The first feather?over person’s?body, the first bone needle, the first spinning wheel, ?”wore clothes of deerskin in winter?and wore clothes of kudzu?in summer”, ”Fuxi raised silkworms to make silk”②…The long - standing Chinese clothing culture began from then on.

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一、“最早服設(shè)大佬”黃帝的“上衣下裳”

FIRST--"The earliest fashion designer" Huang Di’s"Shangyi and Xiachang"

“衣，依也，人所以依以庇寒暑也?！薄夺屆鳌め屢路?/span>

其實山頂洞人都已會用骨針縫衣服了。新石器時代，人們會以羽皮、麻葛、蠶絲為材料制作衣，并有紡墜、紡輪，甚至云南和海南少數(shù)民族中至今還有應(yīng)用的原始織機……

The?Upper Cave Man?already knew how to sew clothes with bone needles.??In the Neolithic Age, people would used?feather skin, hemp, silk as materials to make clothes, and there were?spinning pendants, spinning wheels, and the original loom?that ethnic minorities in Yunnan and Hainan are still seldom use ... ?

當(dāng)時的織造技術(shù)已經(jīng)基本完備，但那時的衣服就是咱小時候披床單的進(jìn)階版，基本愛咋穿咋穿，漢服體系的第一個款式——上衣下裳是誰開創(chuàng)的具體不知，但普遍引用的是一位耳熟能詳?shù)娜宋铮?/span>

At that time, the weaving technology was basically complete, but the clothes at that time were the advanced version of the sheets we wore when we were young, people can dress however they want. We don't know who created the first style of The Hanfu system -- "Yi and chang"(“Yi”is the coat, “Chang”is the dress.“Yi”wearing above and “Chang”wearing down,), but?be considered a familiar figure: Yellow Emperor.

?

“黃帝堯舜垂衣裳而天下治，蓋取諸乾坤?！薄吨芤住は缔o下》

"The Yellow Emperor, Yao and Shun lowered their hands and made?use of clothes to govern their country, because clothes contained the meaning of heaven and earth."??--?《周易·系辭下》

都知道他推算歷法；教導(dǎo)百姓播種五谷；興文字；作干支，制樂器，創(chuàng)醫(yī)學(xué)，他也是漢服體系的第一個款式——“衣裳”的設(shè)計推廣者。上衣下裳有何妙處，黃帝能“垂衣裳而治天下”（就是把手一垂，順其自然）？

We all know that he taught the people to sow grain, promoted writing, made?Musical Instruments, create medicine and so on, but he was also the designer and promoter of the first style of hanfu system.??What is the meaning of "Yi and Chang"，so that Yellow Emperor lowered their hands and made?use of clothes to govern their country?

東漢茍爽的《九家易》回答了這個問題：“衣取象乾，居上覆物，裳取象乾，在下含物也?！鼻翘?，對應(yīng)上衣；坤是地，對應(yīng)下裳。大禮服還要上衣為代表天的玄色，下裳為代表地的黃色。這就不是頭懸神明了，是直接把“天地”穿在了身上啊！

The 《九家易》?by Gou Shuang of the Eastern Han Dynasty answers this question: “Yi”?represent the image of heaven, worn above, and “Chang”?represent the image of earth, worn below.??The formal dress also has a black shirt representing the sky and yellow clothes representing the ground.??There is?not merely a god right above the head, is directly the "heaven and earth" wear on the body ! ?

?天人合一，天地秩序在人身，在人心。自然就可以手一垂，無（佛）為（系）而（治）治（國）啦~

At that time, people believed in deity, who would dare to break the law!?If so, the?Yellow Emperor can put his hands down and let nature take its course.

?

二、連衣裙鼻祖——深衣

SECOND--The earliest one-piece dress?-?”Shenyi”

汩汩的清泉，纖柔的水草，和淑女高挑豐碩的身影。寬袖隨微風(fēng)拂起，三角的裾裹細(xì)細(xì)柳腰，極寬的綢帶纏其上，下裳展開，隨步搖曳。衣袂輕盈，步態(tài)裊裊，端莊古樸，彰顯出頎長的碩人之美，更將古典之美展現(xiàn)到極致。

有人說，深衣是最美的漢服。

The gurgling spring, the soft?float grass, and the tall figure of lady.??Wide sleeves with the breeze, triangular train wrapped in a thin willow waist, extremely wide silk ribbon wrapped around it, the next skirt spread out, swaying with the step. ?The clothes are light, the gait is elegant, dignified and simple, showing the beauty of?the “beauty of buxom lady”, and showing the beauty of the classic to the extreme.?

Some people said,?“Shenyi”?is the most beautiful kind of hanfu.

?

深衣卻是最流通接地氣兒的衣服。都知道在古代，什么人什么場合什么衣服規(guī)矩得很。而深衣，無論你是男是女，出身或尊或卑，辦紅、白事皆可穿，打破著一切界限。

Shenyi?is?the most current and down-to-earth clothing.??We all know that in ancient times there were rules about who wore what on what occasions.??However, Shenyi, no matter you are male or female, can be worn by people of high or low birth, wedding or?funeral, breaking all boundaries. ?

深衣從春秋戰(zhàn)國開始流行。深衣在裁剪時上衣下裳依舊分開做，以尊崇古時的天地秩序，縫制時由“分體裙”接成了“連衣裙”，故分為上衣下裳兩部分，并配有絲絳和大帶作為腰帶。

Shenyi?became popular from the Spring and Autumn period and the Warring States Period.??In tailoring, the "Yi" and "Chang" were?still make?separately, in ordered?to respect the ancient order of heaven and earth. When sewing, the "split skirt" is connected to the "dress", so it is still divided into two parts, "Yi" and "Chang", and is equipped with silk sash and belt. ?

深衣分為曲裾和直裾。曲裾，顧名思義，把上衣的裾也就是右襟接成三角形，再把它繞圈到背后用絲帶系上。下擺交疊錯落，衣襟參差不齊，所以叫曲裾。

There are two kinds of Shenyi: curved train?and straight?train.??The curved?train, as the name suggests, is triangular with the right lappet of the jacket, loop around the back and tied with a ribbon.??Hem overlapping at random, lappet uneven, so called the curved?train. ?

?

長長下擺的分層包裹，長長的衣襟用綢帶繃著顯出腰身。好家伙，視覺修身瘦腰可讓老祖宗玩明白了！

The layering of long hem is wrapped, long lappet?is stretched with silk belt to show slender waist.??Visually?being?taller and making the waist?slender?were brilliantly mastered by the ancient Chinese!

?

等，都在說曲裾，直裾呢？

Wait , all talking about?the curved train, where is the straight?train.

哦，這不重要。當(dāng)時還沒有褲子，直裾的下擺是垂直的，在側(cè)邊，走路一不小心就走光。先秦時期，直裾只落得個“非主流”，下期才是它閃亮登場之時。

Oh, it doesn't matter.??There were no trousers then, and the straight lappet?hem was vertical, on the side, and it was easy to walk naked.?In the pre-Qin period, the straight train only ended up as "non-mainstream", and the next chapter is its shining debut. ?

稍微了解漢服的都知道，漢服穿的是衣服，更是禮儀。穿深衣，還得“講禮儀”。

領(lǐng)口直角，象征地道方正；袖根寬袖口收，象征天道圓融；背后一條直縫貫通象征人道正直；下裳用布十二幅象征一年十二月；據(jù)《禮記》記載“短毋見膚，長毋被土”，短了暴露肌膚，不彳?。￠L了沾上土了，不彳亍！顏色還不能穿錯。父母和祖父母建在的可以用花布鑲邊，只有父母健在的得用青布鑲邊，30歲沒到父親沒了的要用白布鑲邊；“深衣尚素”，還不能花里胡哨……

??????Those who know a little about Hanfu know that hanfu is clothes, but also etiquette.??Wear Shenyi, but also "etiquette".

??A straight slit in the back symbolizes integrity;?Twelve pieces of cloth to symbolize the twelve months of the year;??According to the 《禮記》, it should not be short enough to expose the skin, and not long enough to drag on the ground.??You can't wear the wrong color.??Parents and grandparents built can be bordered with floral cloth, only parents living to be bordered with green cloth, 30 years old not to the father's death to be bordered with white cloth;??Shenyi?should be plain, not fancy...??

?

你暈了嗎？反正我是暈了。

Are you confused? I'm confused anyway.

“這應(yīng)該是一種自由的衣服，具有蓬勃的生命力?！薄度A夏遺產(chǎn) 中國衣冠》

"It's supposed to be a free garment with a vibrant vitality."??-- Huaxia Heritage Chinese Dress

1982發(fā)生了中國古代服飾史上劃時代的大事——湖北江陵馬山一號楚墓的發(fā)掘，這位貴族女子跨越千年，帶我們首次領(lǐng)略了先秦服裝。

這位女子身高跟本人一樣是一米六，隨身攜帶服飾20多件，其中8件是深衣。為什么考古工作者卻皺起了眉頭呢？因為她穿在外面的那件錦面深衣足足又兩米長！一米六的人穿上，是要免費給人拖地?。?/span>

此外，這位女子的深衣下裳的分片數(shù)量有五片的、八片的、九片的，就是沒有標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的十二片的；顏色繽紛斑斕，紋樣是各種奇異華麗的鳥，甚至更繁雜……

好家伙，全是“異端”，雷踩了個遍！

In 1982, an epoch-making event in the history of ancient Chinese clothing took place -- the excavation of the No.1 Chu Tomb in Mashan, Jiangling, Hubei province. This noble woman took us to appreciate the clothing of the pre-Qin period for the first time across thousands of years. ?

The woman was?1.6 meters tall and carries more than 20 pieces of clothing, eight of which are Shenyi.??Why did the archaeologists frown???Because the Shenyi made by brocade that she wore?outside is?two meters long!??The height of her?is 1.6 meters, she's mopping floors for free? ?

Moreover, there were five, eight, or nine pieces of cloth for “Chang”, which was not the standard twelve;?Patterns?are colorful?and exotic birds, even?more?gorgeous... ?

Oh my god! “thunder”?trample all over!

?

然而隨著考古研究的進(jìn)展，人們驚奇，深衣極度風(fēng)靡的時代，竟沒有一件完全符合《禮記》規(guī)矩的深衣?；蛟S一場服飾的革命給深衣帶來了百變的自由，或許《禮記》中的“標(biāo)準(zhǔn)深衣”始終只是一種理想。

正如我們說，規(guī)矩是死的，人是活的。端莊秀雅，又百花齊放，才是深衣有靈魂的美。

However, with the progress of archaeological research, people are surprised that in the era when Shenyi was extremely popular, there is no Shenyi?that completely conforms to the rules of 《禮記》.??Perhaps a clothing revolution has brought changeless freedom to Shenyi, or the standard Shenyi in 《禮記》?has always been an ideal.?

As we say, rules are dead, people are alive.??Dignified and elegant, and Like hundreds of flowers with their own characteristics, is the beauty of the soul of Shenyi.

深衣作為我們最熟悉的漢服之一，到秦漢又繼續(xù)發(fā)展。欲知后事如何，靜待下回分解~

As one of the most familiar “hanfu”, Shenyi continued to develop in the Qin and Han dynasties.??If you want to know what happens next, wait for the next time ?~

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三、先秦時期的女子也戴假發(fā)？淺談那些時尚頭飾

THIRD--The?women in the Pre-Qin period also wore?wigs? Something?about those fashionable headdresses.

就算現(xiàn)在人們打扮來打扮去，絕大多也就是裝飾頭這塊，古人對腦袋的重視程度就不言而喻啦。接下來就為大家介紹先秦時出現(xiàn)的主要頭飾：“髢”、“笄”、“瑱”、“副”、“六珈”。

Nowadays, most people decorate their heads. It is self-evident that the ancients attached great importance to the head.??The authors then introduce the main headdresses?at the pre-Qin period: "di", "ji", "tian", "fu", "Six?Jia"?.

“髢(dí)”，就是假發(fā)，不用說，是用來增發(fā)美發(fā)的。

The "di," which is a wig, needless to say, is used to increase hair volume.

《詩經(jīng)·君子偕老》中“鬢發(fā)如云，不屑髢也”的意思就是黑亮的頭發(fā)像云霞一樣，哪還用戴假發(fā)。

The Book of Songs?said, "Black hair like clouds, no need to wear a wig."?

?

還有一個耳熟能詳?shù)陌l(fā)飾就是“笄”，都說“及笄之年”，笄就是女子十五歲行成年禮時固定發(fā)髻的簪子。梳髻插笄，叫“及笄”，代表這位姑娘可以出嫁了。

Another well-known hair ornament is the "ji", which is said to be "the age to wear the”?ji". The “ji”?is the hairpin fixed in a bun at the age of 15 when a girl performs the rite of coming of age, means the girl is ready to get married.??

除此之外，還有“瑱(tiàn)”——掛在耳上的玉飾。

In addition, there are "tian", which are jade ornaments hanging from the ear.

?

接下來，就是上流社會專屬“奢華高定”

Next, there's "luxury haute Couture" for the upper classes.

?

毛傳：“副者，后夫人之首飾編髮為之。笄，衡笄也。珈，笄飾之最盛者，所以別尊卑?！?/span>

如果女子有幸成為王后或諸侯夫人，她會獲得超級加倍華貴的“副笄六珈”一套頭飾。“副”就是包含髢的頭飾組，還要在上面根據(jù)穿著者的地位配上笄、六珈。

?????is the?superlative kind of `ji,`?used to distinguish between high and low status." ?

If a woman becomes a queen or the lady of a vassal, she will receive a set of luxurious headdresses?called "Fuiji Liujia".??"fu" refers to the headdress group containing “Di”, on which the “ji”and “Xis jia”?are matched according to the wearer's status. ?

剛才提到的珈，就是帶著玉飾的笄。在先秦時期，能戴珈，家世可就不是有錢這么簡簡單單的了，珈的數(shù)量是用來顯示身份的，數(shù)量越多背景就越厚，而“六珈”是侯伯夫人才可以使用的。

Jia, mentioned just now, is the planer with jade ornaments.??In the pre-Qin period, people who could wear jia were not only rich, the number of jia was used to show their status, and the more the number of jia, the more noble the wearer would be. while the "Six Jia" was only used by the queen or the princes' wives.

?“副笄六珈”這一整套下來，再用衡笄（用來橫著通傳過去的簪子）一插，天家富貴這范兒立馬就上來了！

a whole set of?"Fuji liujia" wear on the head, and then use the thwartwise ji?to?fixed, the wearer immediately have a noble aura! ?

?

四、極致的風(fēng)雅——詳解《詩經(jīng)》中的“碩人之美”

FOURTH--Extreme Elegance:?A Detailed Explanation of the “beauty of buxom lady”?in The Book of Songs

一晃間，見兩棵粗糙老樹只見黑褐枝丫，掛著千年如一的皎月，灑下綿綿的柔光。樹后木房中，映著火光，修長的剪影徐徐轉(zhuǎn)向前，帶著青銅器一般的端正凝重，帶著鄉(xiāng)土天地一般的樸實淳厚。始終高傲地挺立著，卻又那么娉婷秀頎。

?Absentminded, I saw two rough old trees only with?black and brown branches, hanging the same bright moon for thousands of years, sprinkle under the soft light.??In the wooden house behind the tree, reflecting the fire, the slender silhouette slowly turned forward, With the same dignified as bronze, with the same simple as the field. ?Always standing proud, yet so graceful.??

?《詩經(jīng)》，是中國古代詩歌開端，真實地反映了西周初年至春秋中葉的社會風(fēng)尚。請諸君與我感受人的詩情與美的畫意。

The Book of Songs, the beginning of ancient Chinese poetry, truly reflects the social fashion from the early Western Zhou Period to the middle of the Spring and Autumn Period.??Please join me in feeling the emotion and beauty of this poem.

?

碩人其頎，衣錦褧衣。齊侯之子，衛(wèi)侯之妻。東宮之妹，邢侯之姨，譚公維私。

手如柔荑，膚如凝脂，領(lǐng)如蝤蠐，齒如瓠犀，螓首蛾眉，巧笑倩兮，美目盼兮。

碩人敖敖，說于農(nóng)郊。四牡有驕，朱幩鑣鑣。翟茀以朝。大夫夙退，無使君勞。

——《詩經(jīng)·衛(wèi)風(fēng)·碩人節(jié)選》

翻譯：

好個修美的女郎，麻紗罩衫錦繡裳。她是齊侯的女兒，她是衛(wèi)侯的新娘，她是太子的阿妹，她是邢侯的小姨，譚公又是她姊丈。

手像春荑好柔嫩，膚如凝脂多白潤，頸似蝤蠐真優(yōu)美，齒若瓠子最齊整。額角豐滿眉細(xì)長，嫣然一笑動人心，明眸一轉(zhuǎn)攝人魂。

好個高挑的女郎，車歇郊野農(nóng)田旁?？茨撬鸟R多雄健，紅綢系在馬嚼上，華車徐駛往朝堂。諸位大夫早退朝，今朝莫太勞君王。

What a beautiful girl, a beautiful cambric blouse.??She was the daughter of The Marquis of Qi, the bride of the Marquis of Wei, the sister of the crown prince, the aunt of The Marquis of Xing, and tan Gong was her brother-in-law. ?

Her?hands were soft as?burgeon, his skin as white as grease, her?neck as graceful as longicorn's larva, her?teeth as neat as a vegetable marrow’s seeds.?Forehead plump and eyebrow slender.?A?smile moving heart, bright eyes a turn to take the soul. ?

What a tall girl, driving beside a field.??Look at the four horses, with their red silk tied to their horses' chews, and the magnificent chariot driving slowly towards the court.??Leave the court early. Do not strain your king today. ?

--The Book of Songs?buxom lady

?簡直是生物愛好者寫美人對不對？別著急，先往下翻。

詩中的女子是嫁給衛(wèi)莊公的齊國公主——莊姜。介紹莊姜身材的“碩人其頎”、“碩人敖敖”中的“頎”和“敖”都是形容高的，而“碩”——高挑壯碩、健美豐滿，是先秦時期女性身材的典范。

“這種對女性壯碩豐滿的贊揚，帶著夏禹前中國母系社會對女性尊重的歷史慣性，行將駛向?qū)徝啦⒉幌嗤奈磥??！薄斗埙炝_綺 中國古代女子服飾時尚》。

另一個原因是，當(dāng)時社會生產(chǎn)力低，人類要面對大自然的腥風(fēng)血雨，女孩子也要有強健的體魄才行！

It's like a biology lover writing about beauty, isn't it???Don't worry. Just keep reading.??

The woman in the poem is zhuang Jiang, a princess of the State of Qi who married Duke Zhuang of Wei.??Zhuang Jiang's figure was introduced in the words "碩人其頎" and "碩人敖敖", where the "頎" and "敖" are both tall , which is the model of female figure in the pre-Qin period. ?

"This kind of praise for women's strength and fullness carries the historical tradition of respecting women in the Chinese matriarchal society before Xia and Yu, and then moves to a different aesthetic future."??-- Fandai Luoqi-Fashion of Women's Clothing in Ancient China??

Another reason was that at that time, social productivity was low, human beings had to face the violence of nature, and girls also had to have a strong body!??

參差荇菜，左右流之。窈窕淑女，寤寐求之。

參差荇菜，左右采之。窈窕淑女，琴瑟友之。

參差荇菜，左右芼之。窈窕淑女，鐘鼓樂之。

——《詩經(jīng)·風(fēng)·周南·關(guān)雎節(jié)選》

翻譯：

左右搖擺的荇菜，在船的左右兩邊采摘。文靜美好的淑女，日日夜夜都思念著她。

參差不齊的荇菜，在船的左右兩邊摘取。嫻靜美好的淑女，彈琴鼓瑟來同她友好。

交叉錯落的荇菜，在船的左右兩邊去挑選。賢良美好的淑女，敲起鐘鼓使她快樂。

Swinging Nymphoides peltatum, picked on either side of the boat.??Quiet and beautiful lady, day and night miss her. ?

Ragged?Nymphoides peltatum, picked on the left and right sides of the boat.??Demure lady, play the harp to be friendly with her. ?

Crossed Nymphoides peltatum, picking on the left and right sides of the boat.??Virtuous lady, beat the bell drum to make her happy. ?

--The Book of Songs?Guan Ju

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靜女其姝，俟我于城隅。愛而不見，搔首踟躕。
靜女其孌，貽我彤管。彤管有煒，說懌女美。
自牧歸荑，洵美且異。匪女之為美，美人之貽。

——《詩經(jīng)·邶風(fēng)·靜女》

翻譯：

嫻靜姑娘真美麗，約我等在城角旁，卻故意躲藏起來，搔頭徘徊心緊張。

嫻靜姑娘真貌美，送我身漆朱的筆。鮮紅筆管有光彩，喜愛它漂亮光澤。

遠(yuǎn)自郊野贈柔荑，誠然美好又珍異。不是荑草本身美，美人相贈情意厚。

Demure girl is so beauteousl, I wait at the corner of the city, but deliberately hide, head wandering nervous. ?

The?lady at ease is pretty. Give me a pen in ink.??Bright red pen tube has luster, love its beautiful luster. ?

She gave me?bulrush?from a distant country, indeed beautiful and rare.??The bulrush itself is not so beautiful, but lover gives affection is thick. ?

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--The Book of Songs?Demure?female

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讀者老爺發(fā)現(xiàn)了嗎？《碩人》中的“手若柔荑”中的“柔荑”的意思是初生的嫩芽，形容手的柔嫩；“齒如瓠犀”中的“瓠犀”的意思是瓠瓜的籽，形容牙齒齊且白；還有“華如桃李”中的“桃”，“參差荇菜”以“荇菜”喻淑女的勤勞品格?！对娊?jīng)》取花草等自然之物，樸素清揚，彰顯著天然去雕飾的自然之美。

在水一方的伊人，湖畔間與愛人以荑草定情的女子，溪水中采荇的佳人……反而處處顯著“素然真率”。毫不著色的至純，正是最迷人的人性之美。

Did you notice that??The Book of Songs take flowers and plants and other natural things, freshness and?simple, highlighting the natural beauty . ?

They were in the water side, or love with catkin grass as a token of love??between the lake, or in the water lettuce picking. Pure and uncolored, it is the most charming human nature their beauty. ?

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?錢鍾書先生曾道：詩經(jīng)中美人如畫像之水墨白描，未渲染丹黃。我們找不到受周禮禁錮的循規(guī)蹈矩的形象。身形不求嬌柔，生性純樸真率，一股撲面而來的野性質(zhì)樸氣息，給人留下無限遐想空間。

屏幕前的你，是否苦苦追求著當(dāng)今框架中的所謂“美”呢？試著自然灑脫一些吧，最令自己暢快的，正是應(yīng)追求的。

Qian Zhongshu once said:The women in?The Book of Songs?is like an ink painting, without fancy colors.??We can't find an image of propriety imprisoned by zhou etiquette.??The shape does not ask for the delicate, the character is pure and simple, a feeling of wild simplicity, leaving infinite imagine space for people. ?

In front of the screen, are you struggling to pursue the so-called "beauty" in today's frame???Try to be free and easy, what makes you happy is what you should pursue. ?

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?先秦風(fēng)尚就告一段落。“秦王掃六合，虎視何雄哉！”伴隨著辣個猛男的到來，又迎來新的秦漢篇章，等待下期會仔細(xì)嘮！

Pre-qin fashion will come to an end.??"sweeping?through six kingdoms, How majestic he?looked?at the six vassal states like a tiger!"??With the arrival of this?eminent persons in history, ushered in a new chapter of the Qin and Han dynasties, please waiting for the next period ~??