作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學者、歷史學家、語言學家和翻譯家，以他關(guān)于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂?

Bread, grains and legumes

面包、谷物和豆類

?The dietary qualities of bread depended on four variables (so Simeon Seth carefully explains): the kind of grain, the making of the dough, the form of oven and the baking process. He later adds a fifth, the length of time between baking and eating: different qualities are allowed to bread which is still warm, to today's bread which is cold, and to bread one or two days old: after that, it is not good to eat.

? ? ? ? ? 面包的膳食質(zhì)量取決于四個變量（Simeon Seth 仔細解釋）：谷物的種類、面團的制作、烤箱的形式和烘焙過程。他后來又增加了一條，即烘烤和進食之間的時間長度：仍然保溫的面包、今天冷的面包和已經(jīng)烘烤后放置一兩天的大的面包，皆允許有不同的品質(zhì)：在那之后，就不好了吃。

One can tell the superior power of wheat, Simeon Seth continues, from the fact that the raw grain can scarcely be broken by the teeth. By contrast with bread made from fine wheat, emmer bread (artos olyrites) was a makeshift when there was no other bread to be found; for example, the people of Thessalonica, almost starving in the course of the siege and sack of the city by the Normans in 1185, managed to keep going on emmer bread and on bran bread baked under the ashes. Again, it was possible to make bread from oats. But oats were 'food for cattle, not people, except when extreme famine dictates that bread be baked from them ... Such bread has an altogether unpleasant flavour' (Simeon Seth, On the Properties of Foods ，p. 137).

? ? ? ? ? Simeon Seth繼續(xù)說：人們可以從“粗糧幾乎不能被牙齒破碎”這一事實中看出小麥的優(yōu)越性。與用優(yōu)質(zhì)小麥制成的面包相比，二粒面包（artos olyrites）是在沒有其他面包的情況下臨時使用的。例如，塞薩洛尼卡人在 1185 年諾曼人圍攻城市的過程中幾乎挨餓，他們設法繼續(xù)吃二粒面包和在灰燼下烘烤的麩皮面包。同樣，可以用燕麥制作面包。但燕麥是“牛的食物，而不是人的食物，除非極度饑荒要求用它們烤面包...... 這種面包有一種完全令人不悅的味道”（Simeon Seth, On the Properties of Foods，第 137 頁）。

One almost-poetic evocation of good bread is due to the enthusiastic compiler of the dietary text De Cibis (see text 2 section i). He calls for white bread 'with a moderate use of yeast and salt, the dough kneaded midway between dryness and rawness', but that is only the beginning. There should be 'a little anise, fennel seed and mastic', additions still favoured by many Aegean bread-makers. Those same aromatics also contribute their flavour to the favourite spirits of modern Greece, ouzo and mastikha, and this is no coincidence: their health-giving qualities are widely recognized. Readers 'with a hot constitution' will not be averse to including sesame, as further instructed; bread sprinkled with sesame seeds, poppy seeds or linseed was familiar in Greece from the very earliest records and was evidently commonplace in the Byzantine Empire. The idea of kneading in a little almond oil - a very good idea - seems to be unique to De Cibis.

? ? ? ? ? 對好面包的一種近乎詩意的呼吁源于飲食文本 De Cibis 的熱心編纂者（見文本 2 第 i 部分）。他呼吁白面包“適度使用酵母和鹽，面團揉在干燥和生澀之間”，但這僅僅是開始。應該放“一點茴香、茴香籽和乳香”，許多愛琴海面包制造商仍然喜歡這樣做。這些同樣的芳香劑也為現(xiàn)代希臘最受歡迎的烈酒、茴香酒和馬斯蒂卡貢獻了它們獨特的風味，這并非巧合：它們健康的品質(zhì)得到了廣泛認可。正如進一步的指示，“體質(zhì)熱”的讀者不會反對加入芝麻；撒上芝麻、罌粟籽或亞麻籽的面包從最早的記錄開始就在希臘很常見，而且在拜占庭帝國顯然易見。 揉入少許杏仁油的想法——這是一個非常好的想法——似乎是 De Cibis 所獨有的。

Bread was the staple food of Byzantium. That evaluation is strongly suggested by the fact that grain comes first in 'Categories of Foods' (text 2) and wheat comes first among grains. Bread likewise comes first in Simeon Seth's On the Properties of Foods - admittedly it is helped to do so by a roughly alphabetical arrangement: the classical Greek word for 'bread' begins with alpha, artos. Epithymo to psomin kai kytalon kai psikhan, 'I love bread, both crust and crumb', wrote a hedonistic and hungry author in one version of the fourth Prodromic Poem. The phrase-book (chapter 8), under classical artos and the colloquial medieval Greek word psomin, lists all the usual types of Byzantine bread. Each had its devotees; each had its moral and dietetic qualities. 'I won't eat the bread they call "white foam", but the not-so-white bread they call wholemeal. This is the kind that grammarians and versifiers like,' to quote once more the fourth Prodromic Poem;' and the grammarians and poets knew, from reading dietary handbooks, that this wholemeal bread was much better for the digestion than any imaginable bread called 'white foam'.

? ? ? ? ? 面包是拜占庭的主食。谷物在“食品類別”（文本 2）中排在第一位，而小麥在谷物中排在第一位，這一事實強烈表明了這種評估。面包同樣在 Simeon Seth 的 On the Properties of Foods 中排在第一位——誠然，大致按字母順序排列有助于做到這一點：古典希臘語中的“面包”一詞以 alpha, artos 開頭。 Epithymo to psomin kai kytalon kai psikhan，“我喜歡面包，面包屑和面包屑”。在第四卷 Prodromic Poem 的一個版本中寫了一位享樂主義和饑餓的作者。短語手冊（第 8 章）在古典 artos 和口語化的中世紀希臘詞 psomin 下，列出了所有常見的拜占庭面包類型。每個人都有自己的推崇；每個人都有其道德和飲食品質(zhì)。“我不會吃他們稱之為‘白色泡沫’的面包，而是他們稱之為全麥的不那么白的面包。這是文法家和作詞家喜歡的那種，'再次引用第四卷Prodromic Poem;' 語法學家和詩人通過閱讀飲食手冊知道，這種全麥面包比任何可以想象的被稱為“白色泡沫”的面包更利于消化。

Close substitutes for freshly-baked bread, for those unable to get this prized commodity, were the ring-shaped loaf boukellaton and the thickly sliced barley bread paximadi, both of them to be discussed when we come to army food. Pasta in some form was known, under the classical name itria, but it was not a major part of the diet. The cereal grains of the Byzantine diet were often eaten in the form of soups and porridges. These were the usual ways to eat pistos or kenkhros, millet, names that were synonymous, for the princess Anna Comnena, with unsatisfactory food. Zeia or olyra, emmer, was eaten in similar ways. Perhaps the most frequently encountered among such products was grouta, emmer gruel, the same as what is called kourkouti in late Byzantine Greek and essentially the same as korkota in dialectal modern Greek. There was also alix, emmer groats, eaten 'well boiled and rather watery, seasoned with honey, spikenard and cinnamon'. There was the rustic standby now called trakhanas - emmer dried and formed into balls with milk or yoghourt, later to be reconstituted as a sourish gruel. Trakhanas was already well known in Byzantium under the names tragana, traganos, tragos, and the oldest recipe for it, from the Geoponica, is quoted in chapter 7. Slightly less of an acquired taste was frumenty, katastaton, which with the addition of ground almonds and sugar became a luxury dessert, quite aside from the virtue (attributed to it in text 2 section i) of 'relieving dysentery'. Rice, orizin, still a relatively rare commodity, was customarily eaten in the form of a dessert - cooked with milk (as Simeon Seth helpfully specifies) and sweetened with honey or with sugar.

? ? ? ? ? 對于那些無法獲得這種珍貴商品的人來說，新鮮出爐的面包的緊密替代品是環(huán)形面包 boukellaton 和厚片大麥面包 paximadi，兩者都將在我們談到軍用食品時進行討論。某種形式的意大利面以經(jīng)典名稱 itria 為人所知，但它并不是飲食的主要部分。拜占庭飲食中的谷物經(jīng)常以湯和粥的形式食用。這些是吃 pistos 或 kenkhros、小米的常用方法，這些名字對于安娜康奈娜公主來說是很熟悉的，但食物并不令人滿意。 Zeia或ollyra，emmer，以類似的方式食用。在這些產(chǎn)品中，最常遇到的可能是 grouta、emmer gruel，與晚期拜占庭希臘語中的 kourkouti 相同，與現(xiàn)代希臘方言中的 korkota 基本相同。還有阿利克斯（alix）、埃默碎粒（emmer groats），“煮得很好，有點水，用蜂蜜、甘松香和肉桂調(diào)味”。有一種鄉(xiāng)村備用，現(xiàn)在稱為 trakhanas（特拉哈納斯） - 將二粒小麥干燥并與牛奶或酸奶一起制成球，后來被重新制成酸粥。 Trakhanas 已經(jīng)在拜占庭以 tragana、traganos、tragos 的名字而聞名，第 7 章引用了來自 Geoponica 的最古老的配方。 后天的味道稍微少一點是 frumenty（？），katastaton，它加上了地面杏仁和糖成為一種奢侈的甜點，但完全沒有“緩解痢疾”的效果（在文本 2 第 i 節(jié)中歸因于它）。大米，還是一種相對稀有的商品，通常以甜點的形式食用 - 用牛奶烹制（如 Simeon Seth 有益地指出的那樣），并用蜂蜜或糖加糖。

The use of pulses, too, reached a high level of sophistication. Like the bread so much enjoyed by the scribe of De Cibis, these staple foods were carefully spiced, full of astonishing flavours. The phrase-book (chapter 8) gives some brief sketches of suitable recipes: see under aukhos 'Lathyrus Ochrus', erebinthos 'chickpea', lathyris 'grass pea', phaba 'broad bean', phasioulia 'black-eyed pea', telis 'fenugreek seed'. The 'Dietary Calendar' (chapter 6 text 4) shows how the spicing was to vary depending on the seasons, in order to keep the human constitution properly in balance. Simeon Seth recommends a soup of 'black chickpeas', turnips and celery, seasoned with almond oil, for anyone afflicted with renal and urinary problems. Of grass pea and L. Ochrus we read that they 'can be seasoned with olive oil and ground cumin'; broad beans might be boiled then 'tossed in salt and the best green olive oil'; black-eyed peas were boiled with pepper or mustard or oregano or caraway, and served with olive oil and vinegar or with honey vinegar. Fenugreek seed or telis, not much eaten by humans these days, was recommended by Byzantine dieticians in at least three forms - as soup; as a dried bean 'steeped, sweetened, and sprouted, eaten as a starter' with a variety of dressings; or 'well boiled, cold, flavoured with honey, spikenard and cinnamon', and in this form fenugreek was ideal as a component of the March menu.

? ? ? ? ? ?香料的使用也達到了很高的復雜程度。就像德西比斯的抄寫員非常喜歡的面包一樣，這些主食經(jīng)過精心調(diào)味，充滿了驚人的味道。短語手冊（第 8 章）給出了一些合適食譜的簡要草圖：參見 aukhos 'Lathyrus Ochrus'、erebinthos '鷹嘴豆'、lathyris '草豌豆'、phaba '蠶豆'、phasioulia '黑眼豌豆'、telis '胡蘆巴種子'。 “飲食日歷”（第 6 章第 4 章）顯示了香料如何根據(jù)季節(jié)而變化，以保持人體體質(zhì)的適當平衡。 Simeon Seth 建議任何患有腎臟和泌尿問題的人都可以喝一杯“黑鷹嘴豆”汁、蘿卜和芹菜汁，并用杏仁油調(diào)味。關(guān)于草豌豆和 L. Ochrus，我們讀到它們“可以用橄欖油和孜然粉調(diào)味”；蠶豆可能會煮熟，然后“加入鹽和最好的綠色橄欖油中”；黑眼豌豆與胡椒、芥末、牛至或香菜一起煮，配上橄欖油和醋或蜂蜜醋。拜占庭營養(yǎng)師推薦了至少三種形式的胡蘆巴種子或telis，這些天被人類吃得不多，而且是做成湯食用；作為一種干豆，“浸泡、加糖、發(fā)芽，作為開胃菜食用”，搭配各種調(diào)味品；或“煮熟、冷、用蜂蜜、甘松和肉桂調(diào)味”，這種形式的胡蘆巴非常適合作為三月菜單的組成部分。

未完待續(xù)！

新?年?快?樂?！