TED演講者：Dan Widmaier / 丹·維德邁爾

演講標(biāo)題：The future of fashion -- made from mushrooms / 用蘑菇打造時尚的未來

內(nèi)容概要：Your closet is likely full of all kinds of materials -- leather, cotton, nylon and polyester, to name a few -- that contribute to fashion's sustainability crisis. Biomaterials investigator Dan Widmaier explains how we could look to nature for sustainable replacements for these much-used materials and introduces a leather alternative made from mushrooms that looks great and doesn't harm the environment. "We can make fashion sustainable, and we're going to do it with science," Widmaier says.

你衣櫥里滿滿當(dāng)當(dāng)?shù)姆椏赡苁怯筛鞣N材料做成的——皮革、棉花、尼龍、聚酯等等，這些材料都造成了時尚的可持續(xù)發(fā)展危機(jī)。作為生物材料方面的研究者，丹·維德邁爾 （Dan Widmaier） 為我們講述了從大自然中為這些常用材料找到可持續(xù)的替代品的方法。他介紹了一種由蘑菇制成的皮革替代品。這種替代品既美觀，又不損害環(huán)境。維德邁爾的理念是：“我們可以用科學(xué)方法讓時尚變得可持續(xù)起來?！?/p>

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【1】I'm a proud lifelong nerd, and I have a PhD in chemistry and chemical biology to prove it, which is why I never thought I'd be that guy standing up here, talking about my love affair with fashion.

當(dāng)了一輩子書呆子,我很自豪。 別不信,我手上還有一張 化學(xué)與化學(xué)生物學(xué)的博士畢業(yè)證書。 我從沒想過我會站在這個臺上, 跟大家分享的卻是 我與時尚潮流的趣事。

【2】And there's someone else in my life who's equally shocked by this turn of events, and that's my wonderful wife, who literally has a degree in fashion.

在我的生活中還有這么一位, 也對我的轉(zhuǎn)變感到吃驚, 她就是我那很棒的妻子, 而且她還真的有個時尚專業(yè)的學(xué)位。

【3】But here I am, standing with these two wallets.

現(xiàn)在我站著這兒, 拿著兩個錢包,

【4】One of these is made out of leather, one of these is made out of mushrooms.

其中一個是用皮革做的, 另一個是用蘑菇做的。

【5】And I'm not going to tell you which one is which.

我是不會告訴你哪個是哪個的。

【6】The average consumer can't tell you the difference - kind of the whole point.

普通消費(fèi)者 也無法告訴你其中的區(qū)別 這就是關(guān)鍵了。

【7】Because even if you hate fashion, you've got an entire room in your house devoted to it.

因?yàn)榫退隳阌憛挄r尚, 你家里可有一整個 為時尚而生的房間,

【8】It's called your closet.

那就是你的衣櫥。

【9】And your closet is full of all kinds of materials - cotton, leather, nylon, polyester - that list goes on and on.

你的衣櫥里裝滿了 各種材質(zhì)的衣服 棉花的、皮革的、尼龍的、聚酯的 講都講不完。

【10】And those materials matter, because those materials are the reason fashion is in the midst of a sustainability crisis.

這些材料很重要, 因?yàn)檫@些原材料 導(dǎo)致整個時尚行業(yè) 卷入了可持續(xù)性發(fā)展的危機(jī)。

【11】This is an industry that makes 100 billion plus items per year.

這是一個每年生產(chǎn) 超過 1000 億件商品的行業(yè)。

【12】When I started my journey, I thought this was going to be a really easy answer.

我一開始以為 這個問題的解決方案很簡單。

【13】We just consume less, we have fewer, better things.

我們減少消費(fèi)就好啦, 我們可以買一些少而精的東西。

【14】But in the last decade, I've come to believe that ignores fundamental realities of both fashion and human nature.

但在過去的十年里, 我開始認(rèn)為這一觀點(diǎn) 忽略了人類和時尚的本質(zhì)。

【15】You see, fashion is not purely functional.

時尚并不只是功用性的。

【16】It's about confidence, creativity, self-expression.

時尚是關(guān)于自信、創(chuàng)造力 和自我表達(dá)的。

【17】It's a pure reflection of our innate desire, as humans, to always want more.

時尚純粹地反映了 我們內(nèi)心的渴望, 作為人類,我們總是想要更多。

【18】And it satisfies our insatiable appetites to discover, buy, collect, show off.

時尚迎合了我們永不滿足的欲望。 我們發(fā)現(xiàn)、購買、 收集、炫耀的欲望。

【19】In truth, fashion is intrinsic to who we are.

其實(shí)時尚就是我們的本性所在。

【20】There is a piece of good news, though.

不過我有一個好消息,

【21】We can make fashion sustainable, and we're going to do it with science, and we're going to do it not by changing the humans, but by changing those materials themselves.

我們可以讓時尚變得更加可持續(xù)化。 通過科學(xué),我們可以做到這一點(diǎn)。 我們不會通過改變 人類行為來做到這一點(diǎn), 而是單純地改變制造原料。

【22】And lucky for us, the answers to all of fashion's materials problems are available today, out there in nature, and it's our job, as scientists, to go find the best inventions from nature's four-billion-year catalog of greatest hits and bring them to the world of design.

幸運(yùn)的是, 所有有關(guān)時裝材料的問題, 它們的答案現(xiàn)在都可以 在大自然中找到。 作為科學(xué)家,我們的工作就是 從大自然 40 億年的歷史中 找到最好的發(fā)明創(chuàng)造, 然后把它們用到設(shè)計(jì)的領(lǐng)域中來。

【23】So I started a PhD, and I actually fell in love with one of these materials from nature.

我當(dāng)時正開始攻讀博士學(xué)位, 然后我就愛上了一種大自然的材料。

【24】And it's this -- it's spider silk.

那就是蛛絲。

【25】It's this fine, elegant, tough fiber that spiders make.

蜘蛛創(chuàng)造出了 這樣精細(xì)、優(yōu)雅、堅(jiān)韌的纖維。

【26】You've probably seen a Spider-Man movie, you know.

你可能看過《蜘蛛俠》的電影,

【27】You may have wanted to make Peter Parker's web slinger.

是不是想模仿彼得.帕克 （Peter Parker）吐絲了？

【28】It's OK -- I did, too; it's badass.

別害羞,我也一樣。 這真是特別酷。

【29】I wanted to recreate that material in a lab, so I started a company, and we did just that.

我想在實(shí)驗(yàn)室里重制這種材料, 所以我成立了一家公司專做這個。

【30】And the very first product we made was this: a tie.

我們的第一個產(chǎn)品 是一條領(lǐng)帶。

【31】I took the very first tie, and I sent it to Stan Lee himself, cocreator of Spider-Man, idol to nerds around the planet, all-around amazing human.

我把這第一條領(lǐng)帶寄給了 斯坦.李（Stan Lee）本人, 他是蜘蛛俠的創(chuàng)造者, 全球書呆子的偶像, 簡直是一個全能的人。

【32】And he loved it.

他超級喜歡這條領(lǐng)帶。

【33】He actually cold-called my phone from a blocked number, and we geeked out over the technology.

他竟然用了一個加密號碼 突然給我打了通電話, 我們就這項(xiàng)科技 展開了技術(shù)宅之間的討論。

【34】And back in those days, almost nobody was working on sustainable materials in fashion.

那時, 幾乎沒有人在研究 時尚界的可持續(xù)材料。

【35】So I excitedly ran off to go talk to designers and fashion executives.

所以我興奮地跑去 跟設(shè)計(jì)師和時尚界的高管交談。

【36】And they thought this was fine, cool, but they couldn't shut up about their problem with leather.

他們認(rèn)為這特別好,特別酷, 但他們對皮革的問題卻閉口不談。

【37】And for really good reason.

這是有原因的。

【38】Leather is one of the most pivotal materials in the fashion world.

皮革是時尚界最關(guān)鍵的原材料之一。

【39】In 2020 alone, the five biggest European luxury houses sold over 50 billion dollars of leather goods.

僅在 2020 年, 歐洲五大奢侈品公司 就銷售了超過 500 億美元的皮革制品。

【40】And the challenge with leather is that today, it's inextricably linked to raising cows, and not just a few -- like, lots of cows.

皮革面臨的問題是 它與養(yǎng)牛密不可分。 我們談的不是幾頭牛,而是許多牛。

【41】And cows, at the global scale, are terrible for our environmental future.

在全球范圍內(nèi),這些牛 對我們的環(huán)境影響都是很可怕的。

【42】And so I left this conversation thinking, "OK, what makes leather leather?"

所以聊完以后我就在想 “為什么皮革之所以是皮革呢？”

【43】And the truth is, nobody loves leather because it comes from a cow.

事實(shí)上, 我們不是因?yàn)槠じ?來自于一頭牛而喜歡皮革。

【44】We love it because it's strong, it's soft, it's beautiful.

我們喜歡的是皮革的 耐用、柔韌和美麗。

【45】It plays from the runway in Paris to a rodeo in Texas.

皮革從巴黎的 T 臺 盛行到德克薩斯的牛仔競技場。

【46】So if we can take cows out of the equation, what's the thing we have to replicate to make a great material like leather?

如果我們要去掉牛這個元素的話, 我們得用什么 來代替皮革這么好的材料呢？

【47】And the answer is microstructure.

答案是微觀結(jié)構(gòu)。

【48】So this is a microscope image of the collagen in cowhide.

這是一張牛皮中 膠原蛋白的顯微鏡圖像。

【49】And it looks like a mess, it's just this jumble of fibers mixed together.

它看起來像一團(tuán)亂麻。 一堆雜亂無章的纖維混合在一起。

【50】At its essence, that structure is why leather is both pliable and strong.

不過說到底,這種結(jié)構(gòu) 就是皮革既柔韌又堅(jiān)固的原因。

【51】Now, contrast that to your closet.

用你衣櫥里的東西舉個例子。

【52】All those materials are what we call knits or wovens.

這些材料都是我們所說的 針織品或編織品。

【53】They look like this under a microscope.

它們在顯微鏡下 看起來是這樣的。

【54】Essentially, you take a single thread, and you loop it around itself, or you crisscross it over itself, and you make a fabric.

從本質(zhì)上來說, 你把一根線繞在自己身上, 或者交叉地纏在你身上, 你就做成了一種織物。

【55】If we want to make a new material with the same amazing properties as leather, we need to go out and find a natural material with the same microstructure as the collagen in cowhide.

如果我們想制造出一種新材料, 一種有著皮革特性的材料, 我們就得找到一種天然材料, 一種與牛皮中的膠原蛋白 具有相同微觀結(jié)構(gòu)的材料。

【56】Now, my brain gets going with this, and I think, "OK, we can grow skin, we can grow pure collagen, we can use plant fibers ..."

我就開始想了, “我們可以培養(yǎng)人造皮, 可以培養(yǎng)純膠原蛋白, 我們可以使用植物纖維......”

【57】Those all fail.

但這些都失敗了。

【58】Quality, cost or scalability reasons tank those ideas.

質(zhì)量、成本和能否大規(guī)模生產(chǎn)的原因 讓這些想法擱淺了。

【59】And that's what brought me to the world of fungi.

于是我就來到了真菌的世界。

【60】I'm going to assume you all know what mushrooms are.

我就當(dāng)大家都知道什么是蘑菇了。

【61】I'm going to show you some mushrooms on the side of a dead tree.

我想給你們看看一些 枯樹邊上的蘑菇。

【62】And I'm much more interested in what's happening just beneath the surface.

這兒有一些更令人興奮的事情 發(fā)生在地底下。

【63】Inside that tree are millions of stringy little strands that are called mycelium, that are eating away at it.

就在這棵樹的里面, 有著數(shù)百萬條線狀物。 這些線被稱為菌絲。 它們不斷地啃噬這棵樹。

【64】They look like this.

它們長這樣。

【65】those are mycelium.

就是菌絲。

【66】They're these long branch networks.

菌絲形成了長長的分支網(wǎng)絡(luò)。

【67】And what they're doing is eating dead stuff in the soil and releasing nutrients to the mushroom and to the ecosystem around it.

它們吃掉土里的死物, 然后把營養(yǎng)物質(zhì)傳遞給 蘑菇和它周圍的生態(tài)系統(tǒng)。

【68】And so now, I'm going to show you side by side.

我現(xiàn)在把它們并排展示給大家看。

【69】Collagen on the left, mycelium on the right.

左邊的是膠原蛋白, 右邊的是菌絲。

【70】We're looking at microstructure; I'm saving you six years of getting a PhD.

這都是微觀結(jié)構(gòu)。 這可能會 幫你省下 6 年的博士學(xué)習(xí)。

【71】We're on to something here.

小有成果。

【72】But to pull this off, we need to do this at the scale of fashion.

但我們的目的, 是得讓它擴(kuò)展至?xí)r尚行業(yè)的規(guī)模。

【73】We need a lot of mycelium. Not a lab, but a factory.

所以我們需要大量的菌絲。 實(shí)驗(yàn)室是做不到的,工廠才能做到。

【74】So that's exactly what we did.

所以我們需要一座工廠。

【75】So here, what you're seeing is our first factory, and you're seeing rows and rows of pure mycelium growing in these trays.

你現(xiàn)在看到的 就是我們的第一座工廠。 一排一排的菌絲 就長在這些架子上。

【76】And those mycelium are eating leftover sawdust, so they're doing what fungi do best in nature - they eat something nobody wants, and they turn it into something useful.

這些菌絲正在吃木屑, 這就是真菌在大自然中 最擅長做的事情 吃掉人們不要的東西, 然后把它們變成有用的東西。

【77】And instead of growing into the soil, these mycelium are growing up in these big puffy clouds that we can easily harvest.

與其讓菌絲長在土里, 我們讓菌絲在這些 綿云一般的環(huán)境里生長。 這樣,我們就可以輕松收獲它們。

【78】And this is where science has to meet design.

這就是科學(xué)和設(shè)計(jì)相輔相成的地方。

【79】We take that material and turn it into something leatherlike.

我們把這種材料 變成類似皮革的東西。

【80】It has to be beautiful, has to be functional.

變成一種美麗且實(shí)用的東西。

【81】And designers need to be able to easily incorporate it into the world of fashion products.

得讓設(shè)計(jì)師能夠輕松地 將它們用到時尚產(chǎn)品中。

【82】The first prototypes were none of those things.

最早的原型遠(yuǎn)沒有這么理想。

【83】But after many thousands of iterations, we have a material, and we call it Mylo.

但經(jīng)過成千上萬次的迭代, 我們終于做出了一種 叫做 Mylo 的材料。

【84】And Mylo does everything we set out for it.

Mylo 做到了我們想要的一切。

【85】It's beautiful, it's functional, but most importantly, it's sustainable.

它很美,很實(shí)用, 最重要的是,它是可持續(xù)的產(chǎn)品。

【86】So when you grow mushrooms, it takes about a little under one square meter of land to grow one kilogram of mushrooms.

如果要種蘑菇, 只需要不到 1 平方米的土地 就可以種植 1 公斤的蘑菇。

【87】Contrast that to cows - takes about 97 square meters of land to grow one kilogram of cow.

相比起來, 每養(yǎng) 1 公斤重的奶牛 需要大約 97 平方米的土地。

【88】And when we're growing Mylo, we're doing this in high-density vertical agriculture, and we power it with 100 percent renewable energy.

Mylo 的種植 是在空間利用率極高的 垂直農(nóng)場里進(jìn)行的。 我們用 100% 的可再生能源 為整個過程供能。

【89】And this is technology.

這都是科技幫助我們實(shí)現(xiàn)的。

【90】We're constantly getting better. Contrast that to the cow.

和早先的奶牛養(yǎng)殖相比, 我們的這項(xiàng)技術(shù)正在不斷地進(jìn)步。

【91】It's about as good as it's going to get, and the cows really don't like it when you stack them up in high-density vertical agriculture.

我們已經(jīng)盡可能地 完善了奶牛的養(yǎng)殖。 但奶牛依然不好受, 因?yàn)樗鼈儾幌矚g被塞進(jìn) 擁擠的垂直農(nóng)場里。

【92】And so the question remains: How are we going to distribute this material at global scale to meet the moment?

現(xiàn)在我們面臨的問題是: 我們該如何把這些材料分發(fā)到全球 并滿足當(dāng)今世界的需求呢？

【93】I have bad news for you here.

我要告訴大家一個壞消息。

【94】Historically, it takes decades for a new material to reach global-scale adoption.

從歷史上看, 一種新材料需要幾十年 才能在全球范圍內(nèi)被采用。

【95】Take spandex, that stretchy fiber.

以氨綸為例, 這是一種富有彈性的纖維。

【96】It's in your blue jeans, your yoga pants.

你的牛仔褲和瑜伽褲里都有它。

【97】Makes your butt look amazing.

很好地修飾了你的臀部曲線。

【98】That material was invented in the 1950s, and it wasn't until the athleisure megatrend 50 years later that it was truly everywhere on this planet.

這種材料是在 20 世紀(jì) 50 年代發(fā)明的, 直到 50 年后的 運(yùn)動休閑風(fēng)開始時興, 這種材料才開始流行起來。

【99】And thank you, climate change - we humans don't have 50 years to wait.

但是由于氣候變化, 人類等不了 50 年了。

【100】We need to solve this problem.

我們得解決這個問題。

【101】We need new materials, and we need them now.

我們現(xiàn)在就急需新的材料。

【102】And this is where fashion can be transformational.

而這正是時尚界可以改變的地方。

【103】So I went out and constructed what we call the Mylo Consortium.

因此,我們創(chuàng)立了 Mylo 聯(lián)盟。

【104】These are fashion brands you know.

聯(lián)合了一些你所熟知的時尚品牌:

【105】Stella McCartney, lululemon, Kering and Adidas.

麥卡妮（Stella McCartney）, 露露樂蒙（Lululemon）,

【106】Normally, fashion brands are renowned for their competitive nature and their desire for exclusivity.

通常,時尚品牌以其競爭性 和對獨(dú)特風(fēng)格的追求而聞名。

【107】But I was able to convince these brands that no one group can solve this problem alone.

但我說服了這些品牌, 告訴他們沒有任何一個組織 能夠單獨(dú)解決這個問題。

【108】And to meet this moment, it was time to act in collaboration instead of competition.

為了達(dá)成這一目標(biāo), 是時候化敵為友開始合作了。

【109】We did just that.

我們就這么做了。

【110】With the idea that we're going to solve this really big problem really fast.

我們想著要盡快解決這個大問題。

【111】And here's a taste of how they're supporting Mylo.

他們是這樣支持 Mylo 的。

【112】Lululemon wove Mylo into yoga and wellness accessories.

露露樂蒙將 Mylo 編織成 瑜伽用品和健身配飾。

【113】Celebrity environmentalist Paris Jackson modeled Mylo in this fashion editorial.

著名的環(huán)保主義者 帕里斯.杰克遜（Paris Jackson） 在這篇時尚專欄中為 Mylo 做模特。

【114】Adidas redesigned the Stan Smith - it's their most iconic style -- with Mylo.

阿迪達(dá)斯用 Mylo 重新設(shè)計(jì)了他們最經(jīng)典的款式 斯坦史密斯 休閑鞋。

【115】And Stella McCartney designed the Frayme Mylo handbag, and debuted it on the Paris runway.

斯特拉.麥卡特尼 （Stella McCartney） 設(shè)計(jì)了 Frayme Mylo 手袋, 并在巴黎的 T 臺上展示了它。

【116】And that little black handbag that you see right there, that's now part of Stella's commercial collection.

你看到的那個黑色小手袋, 現(xiàn)在納入了 Stella 的商業(yè)系列。

【117】And what that means is that this is not some far-off idea that's a dream that may one day be real.

這說明了我們不只是 在做一個飄渺無邊的夢, 這是一個終會成真的美夢。

【118】Mylo's commercially viable today.

Mylo 如今的商業(yè)模式是可行的。

【119】We sell it for 30 dollars a square foot.

它售價每平方英尺 30 美元,

【120】It's about the price of premium calf leather.

和優(yōu)質(zhì)小牛皮的價格差不多。

【121】And this -- this is the tipping point.

這是一個轉(zhuǎn)折點(diǎn)。

【122】This is the first tangible proof that the future of fashion can and will be made with sustainable materials.

這是首個證據(jù)證明未來的時尚 可以且將由可持續(xù)性材料塑造。

【123】And this is our road map.

這是我們的路線圖。

【124】We went looking to nature for a better alternative to leather, and we found that mycelium.

我們嘗試在大自然中 尋找更好的皮革替代品, 然后我們就找到了菌絲。

【125】It was hiding in plain sight.

它在眾目睽睽之下, 卻又是這樣的深藏不露。

【126】And this story, Mylo's story, is just one small example in a much broader movement.

這個有關(guān) Mylo 的故事 只是我們宏大運(yùn)動中的一個小例子。

【127】It's the one I know.

一個我可以分享的例子。

【128】But in the last few years, countless scientists have joined us in this journey of a sustainable materials revolution.

但在過去的幾年里, 無數(shù)的科學(xué)家已經(jīng)加入了我們, 加入了這個可持續(xù)材料革命的旅程。

【129】And in the coming years, I think we're going to see amazing advances that replace all the harmful materials in your closet, in your home and your car.

而在未來幾年, 我認(rèn)為我們將看到驚人的進(jìn)步 你的衣柜、家里和汽車中的 所有有害物質(zhì)會被取代。

【130】And my hope is that, by sharing this journey with Mylo, it can act as a blueprint that these others can follow to more quickly improve this world for all of us.

我希望通過分享 Mylo 的故事, 呈現(xiàn)出一個 其他人可以遵循的模式, 一個可以加速改善這個世界的藍(lán)圖。

【131】Because in my heart, I'm still that nerd from the beginning, and I want to know what else is hiding out there in nature.

因?yàn)閮?nèi)心深處, 我仍然是一開始的那個書呆子, 我想知道大自然中還藏著什么。

【132】I want to know what's the number-one spot on the best-of playlist from four billion years of evolution.

想知道在 40 億年的進(jìn)化過程中, 是什么能在最佳播放列表里常年霸榜。

【133】And the incredible part of all this is that fashion undoubtedly compounded our sustainability crisis.

而不可思議的是, 時尚無疑加重了 我們的可持續(xù)發(fā)展危機(jī)。

【134】But fashion has a golden opportunity to lead the charge, to live with nature, instead of against it.

但時尚界正迎來了一個黃金機(jī)會, 時尚可以選擇引領(lǐng)大家 與自然共存,而不是與之對抗。

【135】And now, and in the future, fashion's not just about making yourself beautiful.

無論何時, 時尚不僅僅是為了 讓我們每個人自己變得美麗,

【136】It's also about making this planet beautiful and livable for generations.

它也是為了讓這個星球變得更加美麗, 讓世世代代長久地生活在此。

【137】Thank you.

謝謝大家。