作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學者、歷史學家、語言學家和翻譯家，以他關于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協會年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂?

Fish and fish sauce

魚和魚露

?This sketch of the medieval markets of Constantinople serves to introduce a quick survey of Byzantine foodstuffs.

? ? ? ? ? ?這張君士坦丁堡中世紀市場的草圖用于介紹對拜占庭食品的快速調查。

Early Byzantion had been a fine place for fish, and so is modern Istanbul. Imperial Constantinople was no different. Empty nets in the Hellespont in the tunny season were rare indeed - and were considered the work of the Devil.? In addition to all the seafood delicacies known to classical Greece, the Byzantines appreciated salted grey mullet roe, ootarikhon (literally 'egg pickle': the Greek word is the source of Coptic outarakhon and thus of Arabic butarkhah and of the modern term 'botargo');' by the twelfth century they had tasted caviar, kabiari, the new fish delicacy of the Black Sea. Still later they imported kippered herrings, rengai, from distant Britain.

? ? ? ? ? ?早期的拜占庭是捕魚的好地方，現代的伊斯坦布爾也是如此。君士坦丁堡也不例外。在金槍魚季節(jié)，赫勒斯龐特的空網確實很少見——這被認為是魔鬼的杰作。除了古典希臘已知的所有海鮮美食外，拜占庭人還喜歡鹽漬灰鯔魚子 ootarikhon（字面意思是“雞蛋泡菜”：希臘詞是科普特語 outarakhon 的來源，因此也是阿拉伯語 butarkhah 和現代術語“botargo”的來源） );' 到 12 世紀，他們已經嘗到了魚子醬、卡比亞里（kabiari），這是黑海的新魚類佳肴。 再后來，他們從遙遠的英國進口了鯡魚，renai。

In surveying the fish (and other foods) detailed in the texts in chapter 6, one keeps in mind that dieticians do not write about foods that nobody eats. They advise, wisely or unwisely, those who have the power of choice. One author thought that 'grey mullet is rather unhealthy' and that 'oily fish ... are poor eating and produce bad humours' and that tuna is 'to be eaten pickled or salted'; we conclude that grey mullet, oily fish (such as mackerel) and (in season) fresh tuna were certainly on the Byzantine menu. Also on the menu were red mullet, as highly favoured as ever it had been in classical times; sea bass, still one of the pleasures of Istanbul; skate, monkfish and also sting-ray and electric ray, the last two less favoured nowadays. Crabs, lobsters and crayfish were sought after; so were octopuses, curled octopuses, squids and cuttlefish. The range of shellfish included oysters, mussels, scallops, cockles and winkles.

? ? ? ? ? ?在調查第 6 章中詳述的魚（和其他食物）時，請記住，營養(yǎng)師不會寫沒人吃的食物。 他們明智地或不明智地建議那些有選擇權的人。 一位作者認為“灰鯔魚相當不健康”，“油性魚……吃得不好，脾氣不好”，金槍魚“腌制或腌制食用”； 我們得出結論，灰鯔魚、油性魚（如鯖魚）和（時令）新鮮金槍魚肯定在拜占庭菜單上。 菜單上還有紅鯔魚，它在古典時期一直備受青睞； 鱸魚，仍然是伊斯坦布爾的特色之一；安康魚，還有黃貂魚和電鰩，最后兩種現在不太受歡迎。螃蟹、龍蝦和小龍蝦受到追捧； 章魚、卷曲章魚、魷魚和墨魚也是如此。 貝類的范圍包括牡蠣、貽貝、扇貝、鳥蛤和海螺。

The fish sauce of Constantinople is very circumstantially mentioned by Liutprand of Cremona. He expresses drily his distaste at being sent a portion of a fat kid of which the Emperor had himself partaken, 'proudly stuffed with garlic, onion, leeks, swimming in fish sauce'. This was not his first encounter with the product. He had been invited to dine at the Palace shortly after his arrival:

? ? ? ?That day he summoned me to dine with him. But he would not place me above any of his own great men, so I sat fifteen places from him and without a tablecloth. Not only did no one of my suite sit with me: they did not even set eyes upon the building where I was entertained. This dinner was quite nasty and unspeakable, drunkenly awash with oil and drenched with another very unpleasant liquid made from fish.

? ? ? ? ? 君士坦丁堡的魚露被克雷莫納的 Liutprand 間接地提及到?！白院赖厝麧M了大蒜、洋蔥、韭菜，在魚醬里游泳”。 這不是他第一次接觸該產品。 抵達后不久，他被邀請到皇宮用餐：

? ? ? ? ? 那天他叫我和他一起吃飯。但他不會把我放在他所知的任何偉人之上，所以我坐在距離他十五位的地方，沒有桌布。 不僅我的套房中沒有人和我坐在一起：他們甚至沒有看到我招待的那棟建筑。 這頓晚餐非常惡心，難以形容，醉醺醺的，沾滿了油，還沾滿了另一種非常難聞的魚制成的液體。

To judge from the way Liutprand puts it, fish sauce (garum or liquamen in Latin), once a familiar flavour across the whole Roman Empire, had clearly been forgotten in the West by the tenth century, for better or for worse. He and his expected readership knew little of it. But Constantinople, as he discovered, retained its liking for garos. In fact it continued to do so until the early years of Turkish rule and the visit of Pierre Belon in the sixteenth century:

? ? ? There was a liquor called garum which was once as widely used at Rome as vinegar is now. We found it as popular in Turkey as it ever was. There is not a fishmonger's shop in Constantinople that has not some for sale ... The garum-makers of Constantinople are mostly in Pera. They prepare fresh fish daily, sell it fried, and make use of the entrails and roe, steeping them in brine to turn them into garum.

? ? ? ? ? ?從Liutprand 的說法來看，魚露（拉丁語中的garum 或liquamen）曾經是整個羅馬帝國熟悉的風味，到了10 世紀，無論好壞，顯然已經被西方遺忘了。 他和他的預期讀者對此知之甚少。但正如其所發(fā)現的那樣，君士坦丁堡仍然喜歡加洛斯。事實上，它一直如此，直到土耳其統(tǒng)治的早期和 16 世紀皮埃爾·貝隆的訪問：

? ? ? ? ? 有一種酒叫做garum，它曾經在羅馬被廣泛使用，就像現在的醋一樣。 我們發(fā)現它在土耳其和以往一樣受歡迎。 君士坦丁堡沒有一家魚販店不出售一些魚……君士坦丁堡的garum 制造商大多在佩拉。 他們每天準備新鮮的魚，將其油炸出售，并利用內臟和魚子，將它們浸泡在鹽水中將它們變成魚腥味。

Fermented fish sauce gives a strong and unmistakable aroma to any food, but, just as with soy sauce, its chief nutritional effect is to add salt. Fish sauce had been an ingredient in hundreds of the Roman recipes of Apicius (salt per se was called for in only three of them). Similarly, salt is seldom mentioned in the Byzantine texts translated in this book, while fish sauce occurs in them frequently.

? ? ? ? ? 發(fā)酵魚露給任何食物都帶來強烈而明顯的香氣，但就像醬油一樣，它的主要營養(yǎng)作用是添加鹽分。 魚露是阿皮丘斯數百種羅馬食譜中的一種成分（其中只有三種需要鹽）。 同樣，在本書翻譯的拜占庭文本中，鹽也很少提及，而魚露卻經常出現在其中。

The recipes for garos in chapter 7 are probably of Roman date, like most of the texts incorporated in the Byzantine farming manual Geoponica, which, incidentally, was compiled in Liutprand's own lifetime. The bishop, when dining at the Palace, may be supposed to have smelt and tasted the result of just such processes as these. The traditional method for making fish sauce as a cottage industry in modern south-east Asia is entirely similar.

? ? ? ? ? 第 7 章中的garos 食譜可能是羅馬日期的，就像拜占庭農業(yè)手冊 Geoponica 中包含的大多數文本一樣，順便提一下，該手冊是在Liutpran自己用一生所編寫的。主教在皇宮用餐時，可能已經聞到并品嘗了這些美食過程的結果。 現代東南亞家庭手工業(yè)制作魚露的傳統(tǒng)方法與過去拜占庭完全相似。

未完待續(xù)！