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(書籍翻譯)拜占庭的味道:傳奇帝國的美食 (第二十八部分)

2022-02-15 16:06 作者:神尾智代  | 我要投稿


作者生平:

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達(dá)爾比(Andrew Dalby)是一位古典學(xué)者、歷史學(xué)家、語言學(xué)家和翻譯家,以他關(guān)于食物史(尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國)的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達(dá)爾比的第一本美食書籍,獲得了 Runciman(朗西曼)獎(jiǎng),他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會(huì)年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium :The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會(huì)圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂??

The next 3?moral and Dietary Qualities of Foods

食物的體液和飲食特性

The purpose of the third handbook in this collection is to ease the task of the physician or the self-prescriber by indexing foods according to their dietary properties.

This treatise Appears, in similar form, in two manuscript compilations. The translation of the sections here numbered [i] to [xxv] is based on De Cibis 5-25. This in general gives the fullest and most coherent text, but it is incomplete at certain points; therefore, selected variants and additions are included, as indicated by footnotes, from De Alimentis 1-24. Sections here numbered [xxvi] to [xxxi] are a translation of De Alimentis 25-31.

? ? ? ? ? 這套書中的第三本手冊(cè)的目的是通過根據(jù)食物的飲食特性編制索引來減輕醫(yī)生或自我處方者負(fù)擔(dān)的任務(wù)。

? ? ? ? ? 這篇論文以類似的形式出現(xiàn)在兩本手稿匯編中。這里編號(hào)為[i]至[xxv]的章節(jié)的翻譯是基于De Cibis 5-25。總的來說,這提供了最完整和最連貫的文本,但它在某些地方是不完整的;因此,如腳注所示,從De Alimentis 1-24中選擇了一些變體和補(bǔ)充內(nèi)容。這里編號(hào)為[xxvi]至[xxxi]的部分是De Alimentis 25-31的翻譯。

[i] Foods that produce good humors

能產(chǎn)生良好滿足感的食物

[5] Of all foods the one that is most productive of good humors is best quality milk, particularly from healthy animals, and if drunk immediately after milking. It should be taken before any food or drink, and nothing else should be eaten until it has been digested and passed through. If even a little of anything else is mixed with it, it goes to decay and so does the milk. A good way is to drink it early in the morning, freshly milked, to eat nothing with it, and to walk quietly about. Initially it moves the bowels, but then gives nourishment; it is not itself excreted but settles the digestion.

To a less degree than milk, hens' eggs are also productive of good humors, whether lightly boiled or simply drunk raw; goose eggs are not so good.

The meats that are most productive of good humors are those of the domestic hen and of the pheasant, and the testicles of cocks. Similarly [the meat of] other birds, I mean partridge, francolin, pigeon, thrush, blackbird, and small birds including wrens. Coarser, less digestible and more sinewy than these is the meat of the peafowl and turtle dove; even coarser that of the wood pigeon, duck and crane; more productive of excrement that of geese, swans and bustards. Of all such, meat that is more productive of good humors comes from birds that are not yet full grown [and fattened;] I that of both old and very young birds is harmful. The very best is of domestic hens and pigeons that feed in the wild, and in general of free-range birds that are fed on relatively dry foods and breathe good fresh air: one should prefer the meat of these, particularly if with tender flesh, from well-kept animals that have been fed to repletion, and one should eat sparingly of others. Kid is the best meat of any of the caprines: it is more harmful if cooked with the skin.

Deep sea and inshore fish, including grey mullet (the best of all of these) and bass; also cartilaginous fish, and gobies, and dogfish, and the rest, except that large red mullet are rather coarse. Moderately productive of both good and bad humours are guitar-fish, sole, plaice. Of all fish the very best are those with a certain stickiness of texture and with a certain unpleasantness in their taste.

Among quadrupeds the meat of well-fattened young pigs, such as are between one and two years old, with the udders and the trotters; less good, the snout and the ears. But the meat of wild animals is more productive of good humours than that of domestic ones.

Well-made white bread; emmer gruel, or the gruel of roughly pounded wheat; hulled barley well boiled. Among legumes, beans. Among fruits, ripe figs and ripe grapes briefly hung. Dried figs, if rapidly dried, produce good humours; if slowly dried, they produce bad humours in the stomach. They are excellent if eaten with walnuts, but those who eat fresh or dried figs with other foods are rather harmed. Chestnuts do not produce bad humours, but they are indigestible; once baked, however, they are digestible. Pistachios and almonds may be taken from time to time.

Among vegetables, lettuce, and to a lesser degree endives, [mallow, boiled gourd if not overcooked.]

Among wines, those that have a good bouquet and are easy to drink.

? ? ? ? ? [5] 在所有的食物中,最能產(chǎn)生良好體液的是最優(yōu)質(zhì)的動(dòng)物奶,特別是來自健康動(dòng)物的奶,而且如果在擠奶后立即飲用,那更好。它應(yīng)該在任何食物或飲料之前飲用,在它被消化之前不應(yīng)該吃其他任何東西。如果有一點(diǎn)其他東西與之混合,它就會(huì)腐爛。最好是在清晨喝下剛擠出來的新鮮奶,不要吃任何東西,并安靜地四處溜達(dá)。起初,它能移動(dòng)腸道,但隨后會(huì)被分解成營養(yǎng)物質(zhì);它本身不會(huì)被排出體外,但會(huì)使消化系統(tǒng)穩(wěn)定。

? ? ? ? ? 母雞的雞蛋也能產(chǎn)生良好的飽腹感,無論是輕度煮熟還是簡單處理后生吃,其程度都比牛奶要低;鵝蛋則沒有這么好。

? ? ? ? ? 最能產(chǎn)生好心情的肉是家養(yǎng)母雞和野雞的肉,以及公雞的下體。同樣,其他鳥類的[肉],我指的是鷓鴣、鴿子、鶇鳥、黑鳥,以及包括鷦鷯在內(nèi)的小鳥。比這些粗糙、不容易消化、有筋骨的是珍珠雞和斑鳩的肉;更粗糙的是木鴿、鴨子和鶴的肉;易沉積更多排泄物的是鵝、天鵝和鴇的肉。在所有這些食物中,對(duì)人體有益的肉來自于尚未完全長大的鳥類;老鳥和幼鳥的肉都是不好的。最好的是在野外覓食的家養(yǎng)母雞和鴿子,以及一般來說以相對(duì)干燥的食物喂養(yǎng)并呼吸良好的新鮮空氣的散養(yǎng)禽類:人們應(yīng)該更喜歡這些肉,特別是肉質(zhì)鮮嫩的禽鳥類,或來自被喂養(yǎng)得很飽的動(dòng)物,人們應(yīng)該少吃其他肉。山羊羔肉是所有山羊中最好的肉,如果帶著皮煮的話反而會(huì)對(duì)身體有害。

? ? ? ? ?深海和近海魚類,包括灰烏魚(所有魚中最好的)和鱸魚;還有軟骨魚、蝦虎魚和狗魚,以及其他魚類,只是大紅烏魚肉質(zhì)比較粗。吉他魚、鰨目魚、鰈魚的產(chǎn)量不高,但也有好壞之分。在所有的魚中,最好的是那些質(zhì)地有一定粘性、味道吃起來有一點(diǎn)不愉快的魚。

? ? ? ? ? ?在四足動(dòng)物中,膘肥體壯的小豬肉,如一到兩歲的小豬,包括肌肉胸和蹄子;較差的是鼻和耳朵。但是,野生動(dòng)物的肉比家養(yǎng)動(dòng)物的肉更能產(chǎn)生良好的滿足感。

? ? ? ? ? 制作精良的白面包;埃默爾粥,或粗搗小麥的粥;去殼的大麥煮熟后。豆類,一般是豆子。水果類,成熟的無花果和成熟的葡萄要懸掛自然晾干。如果是吃那些迅速曬干的無花果干,胃內(nèi)會(huì)產(chǎn)生良好的氣體;如果是慢慢曬干的,那么胃里會(huì)產(chǎn)生不良的氣體。如果與核桃一起吃,效果很好,但那些將新鮮或干的無花果與其他食物一起吃的人反而會(huì)受到傷害。栗子不會(huì)產(chǎn)生壞情緒,但不能消化;不過,一旦烤熟,就可以消化了。開心果和杏仁可以時(shí)常食用。

? ? ? ? ? 蔬菜類,有生菜,還有少量的菊苣,[錦葵,煮過的葫蘆,如果沒有煮過頭的話]。

? ? ? ? ? 葡萄酒類,那些有甜美香氣和容易飲用的葡萄酒。

烏魚

[ii] Foods that are digestible

容易消化的食物

[6] Bread that has been well kneaded and well baked, with proper amounts of salt, flour and water.

[All inshore fish, goby, ray, sting-ray.]

The meat of birds such as partridge and francolin [is not very digestible: nor that of] pigeon, capon, chicken and pheasant. The wings of geese are digestible [and also those of chickens]. Most digestible are [the wings of] plump young birds, scrawny and old ones least so. The livers of geese fattened on cream; the testicles of birds similarly fattened.

Calves are better than older cattle, kids are better than older goats; in both cases, best of all if they have grazed in dry places.

[Soft-boiled eggs; raw eggs.] Among vegetables [lettuce, endive,] mallow and boiled gourd [if not overcooked. Walnuts are more digestible than] hazelnuts.

Sweet wines, drunk before the meal, are better than austere ones.

But all foods that are pleasant to eat are more digestible than those that are unpleasant.

? ? ? ? ? [6] 揉得很好的面包,烤得很好,有適量的鹽、面粉和水。

? ? ? ? ? [所有的近海魚、蝦虎魚、鰩魚、刺魟。]

? ? ? ? ? 像鷓鴣和松雞這樣的禽類的肉不容易消化,鴿子、閹雞、雞和野雞的肉也不容易消化。鵝的翅膀容易消化[雞的翅膀也一樣]。最容易消化的是豐滿的幼鳥的翅膀,而瘦弱和年老的則是最不容易消化的。用奶油養(yǎng)肥的鵝的肝、鳥類的睪丸吃多了同樣容易胖。

? ? ? ? ? 小牛比老牛好,羔羊比老羊好;在這兩種情況下,如果它們?cè)诟稍锏牡胤匠赃^草,那肉質(zhì)就更最好了。

? ? ? ? ? [蔬菜中[萵苣、苣荬菜、]錦葵和煮葫蘆[如果沒有煮得太熟的話],核桃比榛子更容易消化。

? ? ? ? ? 飯前喝甜酒,比普通方法釀制的酒好。

? ? ? ? ? 但所有吃起來愉快的食物都比那些不愉快的食物更容易消化。

松雞

[iii] Foods that are indigestible

不易消化的食物

[7] Goat meat, beef, venison: the worst of these is the meat of Billy goats, likewise that of rams and of bulls. All meat of older animals is indigestible, including offal: trotters, tripe, womb, heart, liver, ears, kidneys, all vital organs, brain, tail, and (when not castrated) testicles.

Geese (except the wings), wood pigeons, thrushes, blackbirds and all meat of small birds that is coarse; and more especially turtle-dove, duck; and most of all peafowl and bustard; and the intestines of all birds.

Snails.

Yoghourt; mature cheese.

Shellfish, lobsters, crabs [pagouria, karkinoi], crayfish, shrimps, octopuses, cuttlefish, curled octopus, squid, skate, ray, monkfish, weever, gobies, rascasse, red mullet, grouper, pagres.

Hard-boiled eggs, oeufs en cocotte, fried eggs.

Boiled wheat, broad beans, Lathyrus Ochrus, the pods and the seeds of black-eyed pea, grass pea, chickpea, rice, lupin, [broomcorn millet, lentils, sesame, chestnuts.

Apples, pears, figs,] unripe sorbs, acid grapes, dates of any kind, carobs, lemons (except the peel), undercooked turnip, undercooked grape-hyacinth bulbs, carrot and all vegetable roots, and leaf vegetables too with the exception of lettuce and endive.

Thick and young wines are indigestible; water even more so.

? ? ? ? ? [7] 山羊肉、牛肉、鹿肉:其中最糟糕的是山羊的肉,同樣還有公羊和公牛的肉。所有年老動(dòng)物的肉都不易消化,包括內(nèi)臟、蹄子、肚皮、子宮、心臟、肝臟、耳朵、腎臟、大腦、尾巴和(未被閹割時(shí))睪丸。

? ? ? ? ? 鵝(除了翅膀)、木鴿、鶇、黑鳥和部分禽類的粗肉;尤其是斑鳩、鴨子;以及大部分的珍珠雞和鴇;以及所有鳥類的腸子。

? ? ? ? ? 蝸牛。

? ? ? ? ? 酸奶;成熟的奶酪。

? ? ? ? ? 貝類、龍蝦、螃蟹[pagouria, karkinoi]、小龍蝦、蝦、章魚、墨魚、卷曲章魚、烏賊、鰩魚、鰩魚、安康魚、威化魚、烏賊、拉斯卡塞、紅鯔魚、石斑魚、pagres。

? ? ? ? ? 水煮蛋,煎蛋。

? ? ? ? ? 煮熟的小麥、蠶豆、Lathyrus Ochrus、黑眼豌豆的豆莢和種子、草豆、鷹嘴豆、大米、羽扇豆、碎小米、扁豆、芝麻、栗子。

? ? ? ? ? 蘋果、梨、無花果、未成熟的蘇子、酸葡萄、任何種類的棗子、胡桃、檸檬(除了果皮)、未煮熟的蘿卜、未煮熟的葡萄籽球莖、胡蘿卜和所有蔬菜根部,葉類蔬菜也是如此,但生菜和苣荬菜除外。

? ? ? ? ? 濃稠和新鮮的葡萄酒不容易消化;水更是如此。

羽扇豆

未完待續(xù)!

(書籍翻譯)拜占庭的味道:傳奇帝國的美食 (第二十八部分)的評(píng)論 (共 條)

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