原文標(biāo)題：
World in a dish
Get to the pint
When it comes to ice cream, the instinct to innovate is misguided
盤中世界
回歸本心
冰淇淋口味劍走偏鋒

Forget flavours like ketchup, pickle and blood. It’s best to keep it vanilla
忘記番茄醬味、腌菜味和血味冰淇淋，最好保持香草口味

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DOES IT MAKE more sense to transform a bottle of ketchup into a handbag or a flavour of ice cream?
將番茄醬改造成手提包或冰淇淋口味，哪個更有意義？

To Anya Hindmarch, a British fashion designer, that is a false dichotomy.
對于英國時裝設(shè)計師安雅·辛德瑪奇來說，二分法不存在的。

She has produced a sequinned bag based on a bottle of Heinz’s finest and an ice cream boasting “the unmistakable taste of sun-ripened tomatoes”. (At ￡3.50, or $4.53, a scoop, the ice cream is marginally more affordable than the ￡1,195 tote.)
她以亨氏頂級番茄醬瓶為原型設(shè)計了一款亮片包，還設(shè)計了一款冰淇淋，塑造成 "陽光下成熟番茄的獨特味道"。（一勺冰淇淋售價為 3.50 英鎊，即 4.53 美元，比 1195 英鎊的手提袋稍微實惠一些。）

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Those left cold by the frozen ketchup at the couturier’s Ice Cream Project in London can plump for a refreshing pea sorbet or an ice cream featuring “mellow cheddar cheese with the ‘chunky, crunchy, bite of Branston’”, a chutney that has appeared in soggy British sandwiches since 1922.

在倫敦的高級時裝店 "冰淇淋項目"，那些對番茄醬味冰淇淋不感興趣的人可以選擇清爽的豌豆冰糕，或者選擇有 "塊狀松脆布蘭斯頓口感“的“醇香切達奶酪”口味冰淇淋。布蘭斯頓是一種酸辣醬，自1922年起就出現(xiàn)在英國三明治中。

The more avant-garde flavours taste unpleasantly accurate: the Branston-pickle option has a vinegary tang that no one really wants in an ice cream.

前衛(wèi)奇葩的口味令人不快：布蘭斯頓腌菜有一種醋味，沒人會喜歡這樣的冰淇淋口味。

Far more palatable are the ones based on Coco Pops, a chocolate-flavoured cereal, and lemon curd.
可可米片味（一種巧克力味麥片）和檸檬凝醬味的冰淇淋更容易令人接受。

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Ms Hindmarch is not alone in experimenting with unusual flavours.

辛德瑪奇并不是唯一一個大膽嘗試不同口味的人。

Heston Blumenthal, a British chef, has long been known for his bacon-and-egg ice cream.

英國大廚赫斯頓·布盧門撒爾的培根雞蛋味冰淇淋早已聞名遐邇。

The Alchemist, a two-star Michelin restaurant in Copenhagen, serves pig-blood ice cream (the blood replaces eggs as an emulsifier).

哥本哈根米其林二星級餐廳 The Alchemist 提供豬血冰淇淋（豬血代替雞蛋作為乳化劑）。

Van Leeuwen, an American ice-cream company, has flavoured its products with mac and cheese, ranch dressing and pizza.

美國公司Van Leeuwen在冰淇淋里添加奶酪通心粉、牧場沙拉醬和披薩。

Nor are such experiments all that new. An ice-cream shop in 18th-century London called The Pineapple was serving Parmesan ice cream.

這樣的嘗試也不是什么新鮮事。18 世紀(jì)倫敦的一家名為 The Pineapple 的冰淇淋店曾供應(yīng)帕爾馬干酪冰淇淋。

The urge to innovate seems to be insatiable.
創(chuàng)新的欲望似乎無止境。

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This may suggest that ice-cream makers need to keep churning out ever-weirder flavours to persuade people to keep slurping.

這可能表明，冰淇淋制造商需要不斷推出更古怪的口味來吸引人們繼續(xù)消費。

Yet the charm of ice cream seems to be more fundamental.

然而，冰淇淋的魅力更多體現(xiàn)在本質(zhì)屬性上。

It has been made around the world, in places with vastly different culinary styles and histories, underlining the universality of its delightfulness.

冰淇淋世界各地都有，各地的烹飪風(fēng)格和歷史大相徑庭，這凸顯了冰淇淋令人愉悅的普遍性。

From Turkish dondurma to Syrian booza, Italian gelato to Iranian faloodeh, Filipino sorbetes to Indian kulfi, Japanese kakigori, Afghan sheeryakh and Indonesian es puter, some iteration of the dessert is made and loved everywhere.
從土耳其的 dondurma 到敘利亞的 booza，意大利的 gelato 到伊朗的 faloodeh，菲律賓的 sorbetes 到印度的 kulfi，日本的 kakigori，阿富汗的 sheeryakh 和印尼的 es puter，每個地方都喜歡制作和享用推陳出新的冰淇淋。

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Vanilla, the classic option—and a derisive synonym for boring—is often touted as having universal appeal, writes Rachel Herz in “The Scent of Desire”.

雷切爾·赫茲在《欲望的香味》中寫道，香草是經(jīng)典選擇--也是無聊的同義詞--人們普遍認(rèn)為香草有魅力。

That, she explains, is because vanilla is one of the volatile flavour compounds present in breastmilk, as well as some formulas.
她解釋說，這是因為香草是母乳和某些配方奶粉中的揮發(fā)性香味化合物之一。

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The pleasure of ice cream is indeed childish. The chimes of an ice-cream truck send a ripple of delight through even the iciest heart.

冰淇淋的樂趣充滿了孩子氣。雪糕車的鈴聲讓最冰冷的心也蕩起愉悅的漣漪。

Childish is a term usually used pejoratively, to describe things that should be put away at the age of maturity.

"孩子氣"通常是一個貶義詞，用來形容那些應(yīng)該在成熟的年齡放下的東西。

Perhaps that explains the drive to make ice cream ever more sophisticated.

也許這解釋了為什么要不斷提升冰淇淋的復(fù)雜度。

H?agen-Dazs was among the first ice-cream companies to market the product to adults.
哈根達斯是最早將產(chǎn)品推向成年人市場的冰淇淋公司之一。

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But the best adult desserts are not that far removed from those enjoyed by children.

但成年人喜歡的甜點與兒童喜愛的甜點并沒有太大差別。

And the joys of childhood are profound.They win out against innovation, however sophisticated the marketing.

童年的樂趣是深遠(yuǎn)的。不管創(chuàng)新多么先進，營銷多么精細(xì)，童年的樂趣總是勝出。

People may come for the Branston-pickle ice cream, but they stay for the Coco Pops.
人們可能會為布蘭斯頓腌菜味冰淇淋而來，但他們會為可可米片味冰淇淋買單。

（恭喜讀完，本篇英語詞匯量548左右）
原文出自：2023年7月15日《The Economist》Culture版塊

精讀筆記來源于：自由英語之路

本文翻譯整理: Irene本文編輯校對: Irene
僅供個人英語學(xué)習(xí)交流使用。

【補充資料】（來自于網(wǎng)絡(luò)）
Branston Pickle冰淇淋是一種非常特別的冰淇淋口味。Branston Pickle是一種英式腌菜，由混合了蔬菜、水果和香料的醬汁制成。它通常被用作三明治或陪伴肉類食品的調(diào)味品。這種冰淇淋將Branston Pickle的口味和冰淇淋結(jié)合在一起。它融合了咸味和甜味，以及獨特的酸辣香料的味道。Branston Pickle冰淇淋展示了創(chuàng)新和大膽的食品組合。它可能不適合所有人的口味，但對于喜歡嘗試新奇食物的人來說，它是一種有趣的選擇。

【重點句子】（3個）
The more avant-garde flavours taste unpleasantly accurate: the Branston-pickle option has a vinegary tang that no one really wants in an ice cream.
前衛(wèi)奇葩的口味令人不快：布蘭斯頓腌菜有一種醋味，沒人會喜歡這樣的冰淇淋口味。

This may suggest that ice-cream makers need to keep churning out ever-weirder flavours to persuade people to keep slurping.
這可能表明，冰淇淋制造商需要不斷推出更古怪的口味來吸引人們繼續(xù)消費。

The pleasure of ice cream is indeed childish. The chimes of an ice-cream truck send a ripple of delight through even the iciest heart.
冰淇淋的樂趣充滿了孩子氣。雪糕車的鈴聲讓最冰冷的心也蕩起愉悅的漣漪。