作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學者、歷史學家、語言學家和翻譯家，以他關(guān)于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂?

Chapter 5 Rulers of the World

第五章 世界的統(tǒng)治者

Legend and reality

傳說與現(xiàn)實

Odo of Deuil, quoted in chapter one, alludes to street crime in the dark alleys of the vast city of Constantinople. His Crusader companions had every reason to be fearful during their stay outside the walls and their occasional visits inside - and not simply because the city they were visiting was far bigger than any other known to them. The time they spent within the frontiers of the Empire had in any case been punctuated by misunderstanding, open distrust, famine, vandalism and military skirmishes. Rather few of them survived to return to the West. The bitter memories of those who did so lived on in memoirs like Odo's. They were of such compelling interest to others that they were fictionalized in legend and poetry.

? ? ? ? ? 第一章引用的“哀慟的奧多”暗示了在君士坦丁堡的黑暗小巷中的街頭犯罪。 他的十字軍同伴們完全有理由在城外逗留和偶爾進城內(nèi)時感到惶恐——不僅僅是因為他們所訪問的城市比他們所知道的任何其他城市都要大得多。 他們在帝國邊境度過的時光無論如何，都被人們誤解和公開的不信任、饑荒、破壞和軍事沖突所打斷。 他們中很少有人幸存下來返回西方。 那些這樣做的人的痛苦回憶，在像奧多的回憶錄中一直存在。他們的事跡對其他人具有如此強烈的吸引力，以至于他們在傳說和詩歌中被虛構(gòu)化。

Most of this book is an attempt to recreate the food culture of medieval Constantinople, as it was really experienced by those who inhabited or visited the city: it is based on what they themselves wrote about it. But there is another history, the history of how Constantinople seemed to those who never went there. It was one of the three most famous cities of the medieval West, rivalling Rome and Jerusalem in the frequency with which it cropped up in epics, verse romances and prose fantasy. The original audience for the histories and memoirs quoted elsewhere in this book overlapped with the audience for romances and fantasies. An untraveled medieval Western reader's mental picture of Constantinople was a composite of real memoirs and imaginary narratives. If we ignore these, we will not realize the true magic of medieval Byzantium - a city more than half way to the edge of the world:

? ? ? They steered their galley before the Isle of Bogie, where no man goes, and there are none but apes. They passed the land of Persie, and that of Femenie; they left Coine to their left, and the land of Babiloine; they saw the tower of Marroc, where King Rabaot was, and the land of Jerusalem, and they navigated the River Jordan. They coasted Costantinoble and left behind them the land of the Griffins, and sailed on till they saw nothing but sea and sky.

? ? ? ? ?這本書的大部分內(nèi)容，都是試圖重現(xiàn)中世紀君士坦丁堡的飲食文化，因為它是那些居住或參觀過這座城市的人真正體驗過的：它是基于他們自己寫的關(guān)于它的內(nèi)容。但還有另一段歷史，關(guān)于君士坦丁堡在那些從未去過那里的人看來的歷史。它是中世紀西部最著名的三個城市之一，在史詩、詩歌浪漫和散文幻想中出現(xiàn)的頻率可與羅馬和耶路撒冷相媲美。本書其他地方引用的歷史和回憶錄的原始受眾與浪漫史和幻想的受眾重疊。一位未經(jīng)歷過的中世紀西方讀者對君士坦丁堡的心目中的畫面是真實的回憶錄和虛構(gòu)的敘述的組合。如果我們忽略這些，我們將不會意識到中世紀拜占庭的真正魅力——一座距離世界邊緣有一半以上的城市：

? ? ? ? ? 他們駕駛著帆船駛向了波吉島，那里沒有人去，只有猿類。他們經(jīng)過了佩爾西和費梅尼的土地。他們把科因和巴比洛因的土地留在了他們的身邊；他們看到了拉巴特國王所在的馬羅克塔和耶路撒冷的土地，他們航行在約旦河。他們沿著君士坦丁堡（Costantinoble）的海岸航行，把格里芬的土地拋在身后，繼續(xù)航行，直到他們只看到大海和天空。

There are many such journeys in medieval romance. Some unexpectedly realistic narratives of land journeys in arid landscapes are closely based on the real discomfort, hunger and danger faced by the ordinary 'people' who were marching eastwards in great numbers on the Second Crusade in 1147. The author of the Roman de Thebes, a French romance of the late twelfth century (supposedly retelling tales from Greek mythology), had either travelled through the Balkans himself on this recent ill-fated expedition or had heard tales from those who had:

? ? ? The people were numerous: they stripped the land bare, and had to go far for their food; they could not find food within three long days' march. The poor people were in great distress, the rich were in distress: they could not beg, they could not steal, and there was precious little food for ready money ...

? ? ? Far off, said [the Bulgars], near Russia, along the bank of the Danube, there is a fertile country, but there is a high mountain in our way. Beyond its summit is a wide plain, well worked, farmed, levelled. There is strong Theleis wine, good meadow grain, strong big grain, and there are wide fields of vines, and orchards enough that we might all live off fruit. There are wide ploughlands and big herds of swine: pigs, sheep, fat deer in the woods, deer and stags, goats and wild boar, and plenty of cattle in the fields ...

? ? ? There was terrible famine in the army, a dearth of flour. Bread was sold for pure gold, a chunk of bread for a marabotin. They lived in agony, some had lost their color: the poor, in their hunger, were sick, sallow and pale.

? ? ? ? ? 中世紀有很多這樣的浪漫旅程。 一些關(guān)于干旱地區(qū)陸地旅行的記錄有著出人意料的現(xiàn)實敘述，這基于 1147 年第二次十字軍東征中，大量向東行進的普通“人民”所面臨的真正不適——饑餓和危險。羅馬德底比斯的作者， 一部 12 世紀后期的法國浪漫小說（據(jù)說是從希臘神話中重述的故事），或者在最近這次命運多舛的遠征中親自穿越巴爾干半島，或者從以下人那里聽到了故事：

? ? ? ? ? 人口眾多：他們剝光了土地，不得不遠行覓食； 在漫長的三天行軍中，他們找不到食物。 窮人苦不堪言，富人苦惱：他們不能乞討，他們不能偷竊，而現(xiàn)錢所剩無幾。

? ? ? ? ? ?[保加利亞人]說，遠處，俄羅斯附近，多瑙河沿岸，有一個肥沃的國家，但我們的道路上有一座高山。 在它的山頂之外是一片廣闊的平原，生存環(huán)境良好，耕地平整。 有烈性的泰勒斯酒，優(yōu)質(zhì)的草甸谷物，結(jié)實的大谷物，還有廣闊的葡萄田和果園，足以讓我們都以水果為生。 有寬闊的耕地和大群的豬、羊，樹林里的肥鹿（雌鹿和雄鹿），山羊和野豬，田野里還有很多?！?/span>

? ? ? ? ? 軍隊里發(fā)生了可怕的饑荒，尤其缺乏面粉。 面包以純金的價格出售，一塊面包以一個marabotin的價格出售。 人們生活在痛苦中，有些人已經(jīng)失去了膚色：窮人在饑餓中生病，臉色蒼白。

But the traveler’s troubles and fears were destined to be forgotten if he reached the Imperial Palace. Its wonders were themselves the stuff of legend, recalled and embroidered repeatedly in the chansons de geste, the epic poetry of medieval France. The Voyage de Charlemagne tells of the famous monarch's wholly fictional crusading expedition to Constantinople and Jerusalem, neither of which he ever visited. There was no Emperor Hugh to welcome him to Constantinople, and no palace that turned when the wind blew.

? ? ? Charlemagne saw the palace lightly turning: the French covered their faces, they dared not look. The Emperor Hugh the Brave came and said to the French:

? ? ? 'Don't be afraid.'

? ? ? 'Sire,' said Charlemagne, 'will it never stand still?'

? ? ? Hugh the Brave said: 'Wait a little longer.'

? ? ? Evening approached; the storm subsided, and the French got to their feet. Supper was ready. Charlemagne sat at table, his brave nobles sat, and Emperor Hugh the Brave and his wife at his side, and his blonde daughter, her face beautiful and pale, her skin as white as a summer flower. Oliver looked at her and fell in love:

? ? ? 'May the glorious heavenly king grant me to take her to France or to the fortress of Dun, where I could do all I wished with her!'

? ? ? He said it between his teeth, so that no one could hear.

? ? ? Nothing that they wanted was denied them: they had plenty of game, venison and boar, cranes and wild geese and peppered peacocks. Wine and clarez was served liberally, and the jongleurs sang and played their viols and their rotes, and the French had a fine time.

? ? ? ? ? 但到了皇宮，那旅人的煩惱和恐懼，注定會被遺忘。 它的奇跡本身就是傳說，在中世紀法國的史詩 chansons de geste 中被反復回憶和提及。 查理曼大帝之旅講述了這位著名的君主完全虛構(gòu)的對君士坦丁堡和耶路撒冷的遠征，但他從未訪問過這兩個地方。 沒有皇帝歡迎他來到君士坦丁堡，也沒有隨風而變的宮殿。

? ? ? ? ? 查理曼大帝看到宮殿輕輕轉(zhuǎn)身：法國人捂著臉不敢看。勇敢的皇帝來了，對法國人說：

? ? ? ? ? “別害怕?！?/span>

? ? ? ? ? “陛下，”查理曼大帝說，“它永遠不會靜止不動嗎？”

? ? ? ? ? 皇帝說：“再等一會兒。”

? ? ? ? ? 傍晚來臨了；風暴平息了，法國人站了起來。晚飯準備好了。查理曼大帝坐在桌旁，他勇敢的貴族們坐在旁邊，皇帝和他的妻子在他身邊，還有他的金發(fā)女兒，她的臉龐美麗而蒼白，她的皮膚像夏天的花朵一樣白。奧利弗看著她，墜入愛河：

? ? ? ? ?“愿光榮的天王賜予我?guī)シ▏谋荆谀抢镂铱梢詫λ鋈魏挝蚁胱龅氖?！?/span>

? ? ? ? ? 他咬著牙說，不讓任何人聽到。

? ? ? ? ? 他們想要的東西都沒有被拒絕：他們有很多野味、鹿肉和野豬、鶴、野鵝和胡椒、孔雀（？。。。）。酒和 clarez慷慨供應，雜耍者在唱歌，邊演奏他們的小提琴邊唱歌，法國人玩得很開心。

There were several marriages between Byzantine and European royalty. These must have caught the imagination of the poets of epic and romance, to judge by the fact that East-West marriages are part of the plot of at least six fictional narratives of the twelfth to fifteenth centuries. The Chanson de Girart de Roussillon, composed around II50, tells of embassies and of an eventual alliance between East and West that was cemented by a dynastic marriage.

? ? ? In the quarter of St Sophia, near the cathedral, [the Emperor] lodged each [French prince] in a noble house. There you would have seen new silk strewn underfoot, and scented many a spice, for he had balsam burning everywhere: no other king matched his wealth.

? ? ? He gave them all they wished at night, and next day sat them in his palace, and they began to talk of their business. But he showed them his strange games, and had his necromancers make a storm of rain and create powerful illusions. When he had fed them with fear, he set up more magic tricks and pleasant games, enjoyable to watch, so that they were distracted until the evening of the next day ...

? ? ? Then they wanted to cross the Arm of St George, but he loaded them with costly spices and mandrake. And when he had shown them the grandchildren of God, he took them to his vaulted chamber, its floor strewn with many-colored gems. He said to each:

? ? ? 'Take all you want.'

? ? ? He wrapped black sable pelts around their necks, he gave them rings, brooches and cups, new silk and purple and samite, and vases full of theriac and balsam.

? ? ? ? ? 拜占庭和歐洲皇室之間有過幾次婚姻。這一定引發(fā)了史詩和浪漫主義詩人的想象，根據(jù)東西方婚姻是 12 至 15 世紀至少六個虛構(gòu)敘事情節(jié)的一部分這一事實來判斷。 Chanson de Girart de Roussillon 創(chuàng)作于 1250 年左右，講述了大使館以及東西方最終通過王朝聯(lián)姻鞏固的聯(lián)盟。

? ? ? ? ? ?在圣索菲亞區(qū)，靠近大教堂，[皇帝]將每個[法國王子]安置在一個貴族的房子里。在那里你會看到腳下散落著新絲綢，散發(fā)出許多香料的香氣，因為他到處都燃燒著香脂：沒有其他國王能比得上他的財富。

? ? ? ? ? 他在晚上給了他們所有想要的東西，第二天讓王子們坐在他的宮殿里，他們開始談論事情。但他向王子們展示了奇怪的游戲，并讓他的死靈法師制造了一場暴雨，創(chuàng)造了強大的幻象。等他把王子們嚇得夠嗆時，又安排了更多的魔術(shù)和愉快的游戲，看的津津有味，讓王子們無法回過神來，直到第二天晚上……

? ? ? ? ? 王子們想越過圣喬治之臂，但他給他們裝上了昂貴的香料和曼德拉草。當他向王子們展示了上帝的孫子們時，他帶他們?nèi)チ怂墓靶畏块g，地板上散落著五顏六色的寶石。他對每個人說：

? ? ? ? ? “隨便拿。”

? ? ? ? ? 他把黑貂皮纏在他們的脖子上，給他們戒指、胸針和杯子、新絲綢、紫色和錦緞，以及裝滿紫檀和香脂的花瓶。

We now turn to the imperial reality. Does it match the magic and luxury of the poets' imaginations?

? ? ? ? ? 我們現(xiàn)在轉(zhuǎn)向帝國的現(xiàn)實。這是否符合詩人想象中的魔幻和奢華呢？

未完待續(xù)！