（補(bǔ)更昨天的）

作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達(dá)爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學(xué)者、歷史學(xué)家、語言學(xué)家和翻譯家，以他關(guān)于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達(dá)爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎(jiǎng)，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會(huì)年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會(huì)圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂

Christmas at the Palace

宮殿的圣誕節(jié)

?Byzantine festivity, as we have seen elsewhere in this book, was generous in scale. At the marriage of the emperor Maurice, in 582, 'the city celebrated for seven days and was garlanded with silverware: deep platters, basins, goblets, bowls, plates and baskets. Roman wealth was spent; a luxury of golden display, secrets of the Household, formed a theatre for all who wished to feast upon visions. Flutes, pipes and lyres sounded, at once carefree and seductive. Many conjurors, all day long, presented their different acts to eager audiences. The actors who abuse whomever they wish presented their satirical plays with rivalry as keen as if engaged in something serious. Chariot-races were performed. The emperor entertained men of rank in the Palace,' so the historian Theophylact Simocatta (History I.IO.IO-II) summarizes the occasion.

? ? ? ? ? 正如本書所說，拜占庭式的慶?；顒?dòng)規(guī)模宏大。 在 582 年莫里斯皇帝的婚禮上，“這座城市慶祝了 7 天，并用銀制作了花環(huán)：深盤、盆、高腳杯、碗、盤子和籃子。羅馬的財(cái)富被花光了；豪華的金色奢侈品展示了家庭的秘密，為所有希望享受這場(chǎng)視覺盛宴的人提供了一個(gè)坐在劇院里般的感受。 笛子、管子和七弦琴響起，既輕盈又扣人心弦。許多魔術(shù)師整天都在向熱切的觀眾展示他們不同的表演。演員們隨心所欲地表演者他們的諷刺劇，就像在從事嚴(yán)肅的事情一樣激烈。 活動(dòng)還包括戰(zhàn)車比賽?；实墼趯m中招待有地位的人，’所以歷史學(xué)家 Theophylact Simocatta (History I.IO.IO-II)?描述了這一場(chǎng)景。

There are no fewer than four descriptions, extending chronologically over three centuries, of how the emperor and his guests dined in the House of the Nineteen Couches on Christmas Day itself. The first description is a theoretical one: it forms part of the Book of Ceremonies, whose compiler was Liutprand's host on the occasion to be described below. Here we are told of the procession in which the emperor was conducted from St Sophia to the Palace; we are told with what fulsome acclaim the monarch was greeted on this special day by those who attended him at dinner, and we find confirmation that his guests would include people from beyond the Empire, including Phrangoi or Franks like Liutprand, and Agarenoi or Arabs like Hamn. But we are not told what went on in the dining hall.

? ? ? ? ? 有不少于四個(gè)描述，按時(shí)間順序延伸超過三個(gè)世紀(jì)，關(guān)于皇帝和他的客人如何在圣誕節(jié)當(dāng)天在十九沙發(fā)之家用餐。 第一個(gè)描述是理論上的描述：它構(gòu)成了禮儀之書的一部分，其編譯者是柳特普朗的主持人，下面將對(duì)此進(jìn)行描述。 在這里，我們了解到皇帝從圣索菲亞到皇宮的游行隊(duì)伍。 我們被告知在這個(gè)特殊的日子里，與他共進(jìn)晚餐的人對(duì)這位君主表示了熱烈的歡迎，我們發(fā)現(xiàn)他的客人包括來自帝國以外的人，Phrangoi 或像 Liutprand 這樣的法蘭克人，以及像 Agarenoi 或像這樣的阿拉伯人哈姆。但我們沒有被告知餐廳里發(fā)生了什么。

The second description comes from Liutprand, on the first of his visits, in 949, when Constantinople still had power to impress him. By that time, so he tells us, the practice of reclining at dinner had become exceptional even at the Palace.

? ? ? ? On the day when our Lord Jesus Christ was born in the flesh, nineteen covers are always laid here at the table. The emperor and his guests on this occasion do not sit at table, as they usually do, but recline on couches: and everything is served in vessels, not of silver, but of gold. After the solid food fruit is brought on in three golden bowls, which are too heavy for men to lift and come in on carriers covered over with purple cloth. Two of them are put on the table in the following way. Through openings in the ceiling hang three ropes covered with gilded leather and furnished with golden rings. These rings are attached to the handles projecting from the bowls, and with four or five men helping from below, they are swung on to the table by means of a movable device in the ceiling and removed again in the same fashion.

? ? ? ? ? 第二個(gè)描述來自 949 年柳特普朗第一次訪問時(shí)，君士坦丁堡仍然給他留下了深刻的印象。在那時(shí)，他告訴我們，即使是皇宮里，吃晚飯時(shí)靠在斜倚的做法也已成為例外。

? ? ? ? ? 在我們的主耶穌基督道成肉身的那一天，餐桌上總是擺著十九張椅子?；实酆退目腿嗽谶@個(gè)場(chǎng)合并不像往常那樣坐在餐桌上，而是斜靠在沙發(fā)上：所有的東西都是用器皿盛的，不是用銀子做的，而是用金子做的。 干糧果子裝在三個(gè)金碗里端上來，這碗太重了，力氣較小的人舉不起來，侍者提著用包著紫布的提籃送進(jìn)來。其中兩個(gè)按以下方式放在桌子上。通過天花板上的開口懸掛三根繩子，上面覆蓋著鍍金皮革，并配有金戒指。 這些圓環(huán)固定在從碗中伸出的把手上，四五個(gè)人從下面幫忙，通過天花板上的可移動(dòng)裝置將它們擺到桌子上，然后以同樣的方式再次取下。

Slightly earlier than this is the narrative of the Syrian hostage Harun Ibn Yahya. The description is made to sound generalized: in fact it is of the one Christmas dinner at which Harun was present, in 911.

? ? ? ? This is what happens at Christmas. He sends for the Muslim captives and they are seated at these tables. When the emperor is seated at his gold table, they bring him four gold dishes, each of which is brought on its own little chariot. One of these dishes, encrusted with pearls and rubies, they say belonged to Solomon son of David (peace be upon him); the second, similarly encrusted, to David (peace be upon him); the third to Alexander; and the fourth to Constantine. They are placed before the emperor, and no one else may eat from them. They remain there while the emperor is at table: when he rises, they are taken away. Then, for the Muslims, many hot and cold dishes are placed on the other tables, and the imperial herald announces: 'I swear on the emperor's head that there is no pork at all in these dishes!' The dishes, on large silver and gold platters, are then served to the emperor's guests.

? ? ? ? Then they bring what is called an organon. It is a remarkable wooden object like an oil-press, and covered with solid leather. Sixty copper pipes are placed in it, so that they project above the leather, and where they are visible above the leather they are gilded. You can only see a small part of some of them, as they are of different lengths. On one side of this structure there is a hole in which they place a bellows like a blacksmith's. Three crosses are placed at the two extremities and in the middle of the organon. Two men come in to work the bellows, and the master stands and begins to press on the pipes, and each pipe, according to its tuning and the master's playing, sounds the praise of the emperor. The guests are meanwhile seated at their tables, and twenty men enter with cymbals in their hands. The music continues while the guests continue their meal.

? ? ? ? ? 稍早于此的是敘利亞人質(zhì) Harun Ibn Yahya 的故事。他的描述聽起來很籠統(tǒng)：實(shí)際上是在 911 年哈倫出席的一次圣誕晚宴。

? ? ? ? ? 這就是圣誕節(jié)發(fā)生的事情?；实叟扇税涯滤沽址斔蛠恚麄兙妥谶@些桌子旁。 當(dāng)皇帝坐在他的金桌旁時(shí)，他們給他帶來了四個(gè)金盤子，每個(gè)盤子都放在自己的小車上。 這些盤子之一，鑲嵌著珍珠和紅寶石，據(jù)說屬于大衛(wèi)的兒子所羅門（愿主福安之）； 第二個(gè)，同樣鑲嵌在大衛(wèi)身上（愿他平安）； 第三個(gè)給亞歷山大；第四個(gè)給君士坦丁。 它們被放在皇帝面前，任何人都不能吃它們。 當(dāng)皇帝在餐桌上時(shí)，他們留在那兒：當(dāng)他起身時(shí)，他們被帶走。 然后，對(duì)于穆斯林來說，許多冷熱菜肴都放在其他桌子上，傳令官宣布：“我在皇帝的頭上發(fā)誓，這些菜肴中根本沒有豬肉！” 這些盤子盛在大銀盤和金盤上，然后端給皇帝的客人。

? ? ? ? ? 然后他們帶來了所謂的演奏器。 它是一個(gè)非凡的木制物品，就像榨油機(jī)一樣，上面覆蓋著實(shí)心皮革。 六十根銅管被放置在其中，因此它們突出在皮革上方，并且在它們?cè)谄じ锷戏娇梢姷牡胤奖诲兘稹?/span> 您只能看到其中的一小部分，因?yàn)樗鼈兊拈L(zhǎng)度不同。 在這個(gè)結(jié)構(gòu)的一側(cè)有一個(gè)洞，他們?cè)谄渲蟹胖靡粋€(gè)像鐵匠一樣的風(fēng)箱。 三個(gè)十字架被放置在兩個(gè)末端和演奏器的中間。 兩個(gè)人進(jìn)來拉風(fēng)箱，師父站起，開始按管子，每根管子，根據(jù)它的調(diào)音和師父的演奏，發(fā)出皇帝的贊美。 客人們同時(shí)坐在他們的桌子旁，二十個(gè)人手持鐃鈸進(jìn)入。當(dāng)客人繼續(xù)用餐時(shí)，他們也在持續(xù)演奏音樂。

未完待續(xù)！