作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學者、歷史學家、語言學家和翻譯家，以他關于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂??

The calendar and the Byzantine diet

拜占庭的飲食日歷

Among the translations in chapter 6, text 4 'A Dietary Calendar', attributed to a certain Hierophilus the Sophist (otherwise unknown), is a very practical piece of work. For each month of the year, January to December, the reader is informed of the ruling or dominant humour and is then advised on the choice of foods and wines, often beginning with a modest intake of spiced wine to start the day. January, the coldest month, requires three doses of aromatic wine; the appropriate meals consist of roast meats or game birds or fried fish, all served hot, and all of them sauced with the hottest spices (pepper, spikenard, cinnamon). Mustard is also recommended.

? ? ? Other aspects of regimen are not forgotten in this calendar. The recommended number of visits to the baths varies little through the year, but different soaps and lotions are specified. Lovemaking is authorized relatively frequently in winter: it is proscribed totally in June (and by implication also in July and August).

? ? ? ? ? 在第6章的翻譯中，文本 4 'A Dietary Calendar'，歸屬于某位智者 Hierophilus（未知），這是一部非常實用的作品。 對于一年中的每個月，從 1 月到 12 月，讀者都會被告知主導的體液，然后會被告知食物和葡萄酒的選擇，通常從適度攝入香料酒開始新的一天。最冷的一月，需要三劑香酒；適當?shù)纳攀嘲救饣蛞拔而B或炸魚，全部熱供應，并用最辣的香料（胡椒、甘松香、肉桂）調(diào)味。當然也推薦芥末。

? ? ? ? ? 在這個日歷中沒有忘記其他方面的養(yǎng)生。建議的浴室訪問次數(shù)全年變化不大，但指定了不同的肥皂和乳液。在冬季，（那啥）相對頻繁（你們懂得QAQ！）：在六月完全禁止（暗示在七月和八月也是如此）。

These recommendations did not exist in a vacuum. Two other imperatives had to be considered by any user of this little handbook, in addition to the health issue to which the author explicitly gives all his attention.

? ? ? ? ? 這些建議并不是憑空出現(xiàn)的。除了作者明確關注的健康問題之外，這本小手冊的任何用戶都必須考慮另外兩個必要條件。

Firstly, fresh foods were not available unchangingly through the year. Quite the opposite: almost all foods were in some way seasonal. It's not surprising that the vegetables Hierophilus prescribes in January are the cabbage, turnips and carrots that have been stored for winter alongside the leeks and wild asparagus that are currently available; not surprising that the list of January fruits consists of dried fruits and nuts, alongside pomegranates (because they store well) and pears (since some varieties do not ripen till early winter); not surprising that the broad beans recommended in March are dried, and therefore have to be soaked and boiled well before being 'tossed in salt and the best green olive oil'. It's quite natural that the reader is enjoined to look out for 'green olives in brine' in March, because early olives cured over the winter will now be ready for eating. It is quite natural that the scent of aromatic flowers is to be inhaled in April. Fruit-growers will work together with Hierophilus to ensure that red cherries are eaten in June, plums and melons in July, sweet apples, peaches and walnuts in September.

? ? ? ? ? 一是生鮮食品全年供應不一。恰恰相反：幾乎所有食物在某種程度上都是季節(jié)性的。 Hierophilus 在一月份開出的蔬菜是白菜、蘿卜和胡蘿卜，它們與目前可食用的韭菜和野蘆筍一起過冬，這并不奇怪；一月份的水果清單包括干果和堅果，還有石榴（因為它們儲存良好）和梨（因為有些品種要到初冬才成熟）；毫不奇怪，三月份推薦的蠶豆是干的，因此在“加入鹽和最好的綠色橄欖油”之前必須充分浸泡和煮沸。讀者很自然地被要求在三月份尋找“鹽水中的綠橄欖”，因為在冬天腌制的早期橄欖現(xiàn)在可以食用了。在四月吸入芬芳的花香是很自然的事。水果種植者將與 Hierophilus 合作，確保 6 月吃紅櫻桃， 7 月吃李子和瓜， 9 月吃甜蘋果、桃子和核桃。

Secondly, the religious calendar enjoined certain observances - some fasts, and also some important feasts - and Christian practice was so universal in Constantinople that we should expect practically everybody's diet to be adjusted to it. We have already heard, from a tenth century Christian observer, of the Christmas dinner enjoyed at the Palace. The bolder of historians may combine these reports with the instructions given for December by Hierophilus the Sophist, or perhaps with the December verse of a doggerel dietary poem by Theodore Prodromus:

? ? ? December: I hunt hares, festival food from the wild; I fill my dishes with tasty partridges, and I celebrate the Feast of the Nativity, the greatest feast of the Word of God. Take generously of all foods, I say, and reject the melancholy cabbage.

? ? ? ? ? 其次，宗教日歷規(guī)定了某些紀念活動——齋戒，還有一些重要的節(jié)日——基督教習俗在君士坦丁堡是如此普遍，以至于我們應該期望每個人的飲食都會適應它。我們已經(jīng)從一位 10 世紀的基督教觀察家那里聽說過在皇宮享用的圣誕晚餐。 更大膽的歷史學家可能會將這些報告與智者希羅菲勒斯 (Hierophilus) 十二月的指示結(jié)合起來，或者可能與西奧多·普羅德羅姆斯 (Theodore Prodromus) 的一首順口溜飲食詩的十二月詩句相結(jié)合：

? ? ? ? ? 十二月：我狩獵野兔，來自野外的節(jié)日食物； 我用美味的鷓鴣填滿我的盤子，慶祝耶穌降生節(jié)，這是上帝圣言中最偉大的盛宴。 我說，慷慨地吃所有食物，拒絕憂郁的卷心菜。

On the subject of cabbage in December, Theodore Prodromus and Hierophilus the Sophist are in perfect agreement. It will help us to picture the Byzantine midwinter diet if we paint in, as a backdrop, the description of the hard winter of AD 763-4. We have an eyewitness report of it from Theophanes the chronicler, who was a boy at the time.

? ? ? It was bitterly cold after the beginning of October, not only in our country, but even more so to the east, west and north. Because of the cold the north shore of the Black Sea froze to a depth of thirty cubits a hundred miles out ... Since the ice and snow kept on falling its depth increased another reentry cubits, so that the sea became dry land. It was travelled by wild men and tame beasts from Khazaria, Bulgaria and the lands of other adjacent peoples. By divine command, during February ... the ice divided into a great number of mountainous floes. The force of the wind brought them down to Daphnousia and Hieron, so that they came through the Bosporus to the city and all the way to Propontis, Abydos and the islands, filling every shore. I myself was an eyewitness and, with thirty companions, went out on to one of them and played on it. The icebergs had many dead animals, both wild and tame, on them. Anyone who wanted to could travel unhindered on dry land from Sophianae to the city and from Chrysopolis to St Mamas or Galata. One of these icebergs was dashed against the harbour of the acropolis and shattered it. Another mammoth one smashed against the wall and badly shook it, so that the houses inside trembled along with it. It broke into three pieces, which girdled the city from Magnauta to the Bosporus and were taller than the walls. All the city's men, women and children could not stop staring at the icebergs; finally, they went home lamenting and in tears, at a loss as to what to say about this phenomenon.

? ? ? ? ? 在十二月的卷心菜問題上，西奧多·普羅德羅姆斯和智者希羅菲勒斯完全一致。 如果我們以對公元 763-4 年嚴冬的描述為背景，將有助于我們描繪拜占庭式的隆冬飲食。我們從當時還是個男孩的編年史家 Theophanes 那里得到了一份目擊者報告。

? ? ? ? ? 10月初之后，不僅在我們國家，而且在東部、西部和北部更是如此。 由于寒冷，黑海的北岸在一百英里外結(jié)冰了三十肘……由于冰雪不斷下落，它的深度又增加了再入肘，使海變成了旱地。 來自保加利亞可薩利亞和其他鄰近民族土地的野人和馴服的野獸在此旅行。神圣的命令下，在二月……冰層分裂成大量的山區(qū)浮冰。 風的力量把他們帶到了達芙諾西亞和希龍，所以他們穿過博斯普魯斯海峽到達城市，一直到普羅蓬蒂斯、阿比多斯和島嶼，填滿了每一個海岸。 我自己就是一個目擊者，和三十個同伴一起出去玩了其中一個。 冰山上有許多死去的動物，既有野生的，也有馴服的。 任何想旅行的人都可以在陸地上暢通無阻地旅行，從索菲亞奈到城市，從克里索波利斯到圣馬馬斯或加拉塔。其中一座冰山撞在了衛(wèi)城的港口上并將其粉碎。 另一座冰山像猛犸象一樣砸在墻上，劇烈地晃動著，里面的房屋也隨之顫抖起來。 它分成三部分，從馬格瑙塔到博斯普魯斯海峽環(huán)繞著這座城市，比城墻還高。 全城的男女老少都忍不住盯著冰山看； 最后，他們悲痛欲絕地回家了，流著淚，不知道該說些什么。

The other great Christian festival, that of Easter, was preceded by the long fast of Lent, during which meat and animal products were forbidden. The date of Easter varied (it was on this very point that the Eastern and Western churches had finally split) but was most often in early April. Lent therefore normally accounted for the month of March, and that is why Hierophilus the Sophist makes no recommendations for meat in March: his readers would seldom have been able to take advantage of them. Lent itself was preceded in Constantinople by e tyrine or e tyrophagos, 'the cheese week', during which you were still allowed to eat milk, butter and cheese, but already not meat. That week began with the Sunday known in the West as Sexagesima, in Constantinople as tes apokreos, the Sunday 'of no more meat'. The end of Lent - in dietary terms - came on 'Great Thursday', the Thursday of Easter week. It was on this day, explains the princess Anna Comnena, 'that we both sacrifice and partake of the mystical Paschal lamb,' known in Greek as Paskha.' Anna borrows her phraseology from the gospels of Mark and Matthew. This domestic feast was followed, on Easter Sunday, by a public festival, in which the Emperor went in procession from the Palace to St Sophia. On this day, so the Muslim hostage Harun Ibn Yahya reported, not water but spiced wine Bowed from the fountain that lay on the route of the procession.

? ? ? On the festival day this tank is filled with ten thousand jars of wine and a thousand jars of white honey, and the whole is spiced with a camel's load of nard, cloves and cinnamon. The tank is covered so that no one can see inside. When the Emperor leaves the Palace and enters the church, he sees the statues and the spiced wine that Bows from their mouths and their ears, gathering in the basin below until it is full. And each person in his procession, as they go towards the festival, gets a brimming cup of this wine.

? ? ? ? ? 另一個重要的基督教節(jié)日，即復活節(jié)，是在四旬期長禁食之前。在此期間，禁止食用肉類和動物產(chǎn)品。復活節(jié)的日期各不相同（正是在這一點上，東西方教會終于分裂了），但最常見的是四月初。因此，四旬期通常是在三月份計算的，這就是為什么智者希羅菲勒斯不建議三月份吃肉的原因：他的讀者很少能夠利用它們。在君士坦丁堡，四旬期之前是 e tyrine 或 e tyrophagos，“奶酪周”，在此期間你仍然可以吃牛奶、黃油和奶酪，但已經(jīng)不能吃肉了。那一周從西方稱為 Sexagesima 的星期日開始，在君士坦丁堡稱為 tes apokreos，即“不再有肉”的星期日。四旬期的結(jié)束——在飲食方面——是在復活節(jié)周的星期四“偉大的星期四”。正是在這一天，安娜·科姆內(nèi)娜公主解釋說，“我們既犧牲又分享了神秘的逾越節(jié)羔羊，”在希臘語中稱為 Paskha。安娜從馬可福音和馬太福音中借用了她的措辭。在復活節(jié)星期天，這個家庭盛宴之后是一個公共節(jié)日，皇帝從宮殿游行到圣索菲亞。在這一天，穆斯林人質(zhì)哈倫·伊本·葉海亞報告說，游行路線上的噴泉不是水，而是五香酒。

? ? ? ? ? 在節(jié)日那天，這個大罐子里裝滿了一萬罐的酒和一千罐的白蜂蜜，整個罐子里裝滿了駱駝的甘露、丁香和肉桂。 水箱被蓋住，沒人能看到里面。 皇上出宮，進入教堂，只見佛像和酒從他們的嘴巴和耳朵里低下，聚集在下面的盆里，直到盛滿。 游行隊伍中的每個人，在節(jié)日時，都會得到一杯滿溢的酒。

未完待續(xù)！