庫納族 庫納族人的手工藝品 一件衣服有可能表達(dá)整個(gè)民族的本質(zhì)嗎?通常不會(huì)，但對(duì)巴拿馬庫納族來說，這里看到的彩色手工紡織品可能是個(gè)例外。翻車魚在古納語中是“衣服”的意思，傳統(tǒng)上，翻車魚會(huì)出現(xiàn)在女性襯衫的前后兩側(cè)。即使在今天，許多庫納族婦女也寧愿穿它們，而不愿穿現(xiàn)代服裝。這些紡織品通常以抽象的幾何圖案為特征，也有來自自然的圖像，如烏龜、花、鳥和魚。過去的庫納族女人們都用同樣的幾何圖案和設(shè)計(jì)來畫自己的身體，到了19世紀(jì)晚期，她們開始把這些圖案編織在布料上，而不是在身上作畫。如今，翻車魚的制作仍主要由女性完成，她們采用一種名為“反向貼花”的復(fù)雜工藝，將多達(dá)七層織物縫在一起，形成一塊板，然后再手工切割，創(chuàng)造出充滿活力的設(shè)計(jì)。但是翻車魚對(duì)庫納族人的重要性遠(yuǎn)不止于時(shí)尚。16世紀(jì)，庫納族人被西班牙殖民者從哥倫比亞趕出，經(jīng)歷了一場艱苦的遷徙，最終定居在巴拿馬的半自治珊瑚群島古納亞拉。20世紀(jì)初，為了“西化”他們，巴拿馬政府反對(duì)他們穿翻斗魚和其他傳統(tǒng)服裝，他們?cè)俅伟l(fā)現(xiàn)自己與當(dāng)?shù)卣l(fā)生了爭執(zhí)。這導(dǎo)致了一場起義，庫納族最終贏得了他們今天享有的政治獨(dú)立。對(duì)許多庫納族人來說，翻車魚不僅僅是一門手藝，更是他們自主權(quán)的象征。

原文:

Is it possible for an article of clothing to express the essence of an entire people? Well, not usually, but for the indigenous Guna people of Panama, the colorful hand-woven textiles seen here may be an exception. Molas, which means 'clothing' in the Guna language, are traditionally displayed on both the front and back of women's blouses. Even today, many Guna women prefer to wear them over modern attire. The textiles often feature abstract geometric patterns, as well as images from nature such as turtles, flowers, birds, and fish. Guna women of yesteryear were known to paint their bodies with those same geometric patterns and designs, and by the late 1800s they had begun weaving them onto cloth instead of painting themselves. Today, the production of molas is still generally done by women, who use an intricate process called reverse appliqué, where as many as seven layers of fabric are sewn together to form a panel, which is then hand-cut to create the vibrant designs.But the importance of molas to the Guna people runs deeper than mere fashion. Forced from Colombia by Spanish colonists in the 16th century, the Guna endured an arduous migration before settling in Guna Yala, a semi-autonomous archipelago of coral islands in Panama. In the early 20th century, they again found themselves at odds with local authorities after the Panamanian government objected to their wearing of molas and other traditional garb as part of an attempt to 'Westernize' them. This resulted in an uprising in which the Guna finally won the political independence they enjoy today. To many Guna, the mola is not just a craft, but a symbol of their autonomy.

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