你的衣櫥里可能裝滿了各種材料——皮革、棉、尼龍和聚酯，僅舉幾例——它們會導致時尚的可持續(xù)發(fā)展危機。生物材料研究員 Dan Widmaier 解釋了我們如何從大自然中尋找這些常用材料的可持續(xù)替代品，并介紹了一種由蘑菇制成的皮革替代品，它看起來很棒并且不會損害環(huán)境?！拔覀兛梢宰寱r尚可持續(xù)發(fā)展，我們將用科學來做到這一點，”Widma ...

I'm a proud lifelong nerd,?and I have a PhD in chemistry and chemical biology to prove it,?which is why I never thought I'd be that guy standing up here,?talking about my love affair with fashion.

我是一個自豪的終生書呆子，?我擁有化學和化學生物學博士學位來證明這一點，?這就是為什么我從沒想過我會成為那個站在這里?談論我對時尚的熱愛的人。

And there's someone else in my life?who's equally shocked by this turn of events,?and that's my wonderful wife,?who literally has a degree in fashion.

在我的生活中還有其他人?同樣對這一事件的轉變感到震驚，?那就是我出色的妻子，?她確實擁有時尚學位。

But here I am, standing with these two wallets.?One of these is made out of leather,?one of these is made out of mushrooms.And I'm not going to tell you which one is which.?The average consumer can't tell you the difference --?kind of the whole point.Because even if you hate fashion,?you've got an entire room in your house devoted to it.?It's called your closet.?And your closet is full of all kinds of materials --?cotton, leather, nylon, polyester --that list goes on and on.?And those materials matter,?because those materials are the reason?fashion is in the midst of a sustainability crisis.?This is an industry that makes 100 billion plus items per year.

但我在這里，拿著這兩個錢包站著。?其中一種是用皮革制成的，?其中一種是用蘑菇制成的。?我不會告訴你哪個是哪個。?普通消費者無法告訴您其中的區(qū)別——?這就是重點。?因為即使你討厭時尚，?你的房子里也有一整個房間專門用于時尚。?它叫做你的衣櫥。?你的衣櫥里堆滿了各種各樣的材料——?棉花、皮革、尼龍、聚酯——?這個清單還在繼續(xù)。?這些材料很重要，?因為這些材料是?時尚處于可持續(xù)發(fā)展危機中的原因。?這是一個每年生產超過 1000 億件商品的行業(yè)。

When I started my journey, I thought this was going to be a really easy answer.?We just consume less,?we have fewer, better things.But in the last decade,?I've come to believe that ignores fundamental realities?of both fashion and human nature.?You see, fashion is not purely functional.?It's about confidence, creativity, self-expression.?It's a pure reflection of our innate desire, as humans,?to always want more.?And it satisfies our insatiable appetites?to discover, buy, collect, show off.?In truth, fashion is intrinsic to who we are.

當我開始我的旅程時，我認為這將是一個非常簡單的答案。?我們只是消耗更少，?我們擁有更少，更好的東西。?但在過去的十年里，我開始相信這忽略?了時尚和人性的基本現(xiàn)實。?你看，時尚不僅僅是功能性的。?它關乎自信、創(chuàng)造力和自我表達。?這是我們與生俱來的渴望的純粹反映，作為人類，?總是想要更多。?它滿足了我們發(fā)現(xiàn)、購買、收藏、炫耀的貪得無厭的欲望。?事實上，時尚是我們所固有的。

There is a piece of good news, though.?We can make fashion sustainable,?and we're going to do it with science,?and we're going to do it not by changing the humans,?but by changing those materials themselves.?And lucky for us,?the answers to all of fashion's materials problems?are available today, out there in nature,?and it's our job, as scientists,?to go find the best inventions?from nature's four-billion-year catalog of greatest hitsand bring them to the world of design.

不過，有一個好消息。?我們可以讓時尚變得可持續(xù)，?我們將通過科學來做到這一點，?我們不會通過改變人類來做到這一點，?而是通過改變這些材料本身來做到這一點。?對我們來說幸運的?是，今天所有時尚材料問題的答案都可以在自然界中?找到，作為科學家，我們的工作是從大自然 40 億年最熱門的目錄中找到最好的發(fā)明并帶來它們到設計的世界。

So I started a PhD,?and I actually fell in love with one of these materials from nature.?And it's this -- it's spider silk.?It's this fine, elegant, tough fiber that spiders make.?You've probably seen a Spider-Man movie, you know.?You may have wanted to make Peter Parker's web slinger.?It's OK -- I did, too; it's badass.?I wanted to recreate that material in a lab,?so I started a company, and we did just that.?And the very first product we made was this:?a tie.?I took the very first tie, and I sent it to Stan Lee himself,cocreator of Spider-Man, idol to nerds around the planet,?all-around amazing human.?And he loved it.?He actually cold-called my phone from a blocked number,?and we geeked out over the technology.

所以我開始攻讀博士學位，?實際上我愛上了其中一種來自大自然的材料。?就是這個——它是蜘蛛絲。?蜘蛛制造的正是這種精細、優(yōu)雅、堅韌的纖維。?你可能看過蜘蛛俠電影，你知道的。?您可能想制作彼得帕克的網絡吊索。?沒關系——我也是；這太糟糕了。?我想在實驗室里重新制作那種材料，?所以我創(chuàng)辦了一家公司，我們就是這樣做的。?我們制作的第一個產品是：?領帶。?我拿了第一條領帶，然后把它寄給了斯坦李本人，?他是蜘蛛俠的共同創(chuàng)造者，是地球上書呆子的偶像，?全能的了不起的人類。?他喜歡它。?他實際上是用一個被屏蔽的號碼打給我的電話，?我們對這項技術大發(fā)雷霆。

And back in those days,?almost nobody was working on sustainable materials in fashion.?So I excitedly ran off to go talk to designers and fashion executives.?And they thought this was fine, cool,?but they couldn't shut up about their problem with leather.?And for really good reason.?Leather is one of the most pivotal materials in the fashion world.?In 2020 alone, the five biggest European luxury houses?sold over 50 billion dollars of leather goods.?And the challenge with leather?is that today, it's inextricably linked to raising cows,?and not just a few -- like, lots of cows.?And cows, at the global scale, are terrible for our environmental future.

在那個年代，?幾乎沒有人致力于時尚界的可持續(xù)材料。?所以我興奮地跑去和設計師和時尚高管交談。?他們認為這很好，很酷，?但他們不能對皮革問題閉嘴。?并且有很好的理由。?皮革是時尚界最重要的材料之一。?僅在 2020 年，歐洲最大的五家奢侈品公司就?賣出了超過 500 億美元的皮具。?皮革面臨的挑戰(zhàn)?是，今天，它與飼養(yǎng)奶牛有著千絲萬縷的聯(lián)系，?而不僅僅是少數(shù)——比如很多奶牛。?在全球范圍內，奶牛對我們的環(huán)境未來是可怕的。

And so I left this conversation thinking,?"OK, what makes leather leather?"?And the truth is,?nobody loves leather because it comes from a cow.?We love it because it's strong, it's soft, it's beautiful.?It plays from the runway in Paris to a rodeo in Texas.?So if we can take cows out of the equation,?what's the thing we have to replicate to make a great material like leather??And the answer is microstructure.

所以我離開這個談話想，?“好吧，皮革是什么？”?事實是，?沒有人喜歡皮革，因為它來自牛。?我們喜歡它，因為它堅固、柔軟、美麗。它從巴黎的跑道到德克薩斯州的牛仔競技表演。?因此，如果我們可以將奶牛排除在外，?那么我們必須復制哪些東西才能制造出像皮革這樣的優(yōu)質材料？?答案是微觀結構。

So this is a microscope image of the collagen in cowhide.?And it looks like a mess,?it's just this jumble of fibers mixed together.?At its essence, that structure is why leather is both pliable and strong.?Now, contrast that to your closet.?All those materials are what we call knits or wovens.?They look like this under a microscope.?Essentially, you take a single thread, and you loop it around itself,?or you crisscross it over itself, and you make a fabric.?If we want to make a new material?with the same amazing properties as leather,?we need to go out and find a natural material?with the same microstructure as the collagen in cowhide.

這是一張牛皮中膠原蛋白的顯微鏡圖像。?它看起來像一團糟，?只是這些混雜在一起的纖維。?從本質上講，這種結構就是皮革既柔韌又堅固的原因。?現(xiàn)在，將其與您的壁櫥進行對比。?所有這些材料都是我們所說的針織物或機織物。?它們在顯微鏡下看起來像這樣。?從本質上講，你取一根線，然后把它繞在自己周圍，?或者你把它交叉在自己身上，然后你就制作了一塊織物。?如果我們想制造一種?與皮革具有同樣驚人性能的新材料，?我們需要走出去尋找一種?與牛皮中的膠原蛋白具有相同微觀結構的天然材料。

Now, my brain gets going with this,?and I think, "OK, we can grow skin, we can grow pure collagen,?we can use plant fibers ..."Those all fail.?Quality, cost or scalability reasons tank those ideas.

現(xiàn)在，我的大腦開始思考這個問題，?我想，“好吧，我們可以長出皮膚，我們可以長出純膠原蛋白，?我們可以使用植物纖維……”?這些都失敗了。?質量、成本或可擴展性的原因會阻礙這些想法。

And that's what brought me to the world of fungi.?I'm going to assume you all know what mushrooms are.?I'm going to show you some mushrooms on the side of a dead tree.?And I'm much more interested in what's happening?just beneath the surface.?Inside that tree are millions of stringy little strands?that are called mycelium,?that are eating away at it.?They look like this.?So you see those white fibrous roots underneath the mushroom --?those are mycelium.?They’re these long branch networks.?And what they're doing is eating dead stuff in the soil?and releasing nutrients to the mushroom and to the ecosystem around it.?And so now, I'm going to show you side by side.?Collagen on the left, mycelium on the right.?We're looking at microstructure;?I'm saving you six years of getting a PhD.

這就是把我?guī)У秸婢澜绲脑颉?我假設你們都知道蘑菇是什么。我要給你看一棵死樹旁邊的蘑菇。?我?對表面之下發(fā)生的事情更感興趣。?在那棵樹里面有數(shù)百萬條?被稱為菌絲體的細小線，?它們正在吞噬它。?他們看起來像這樣。?所以你看到蘑菇下面的那些白色須根——?那些是菌絲體。?它們是這些長分支網絡。?他們正在做的是吃掉土壤中的死?物，并向蘑菇及其周圍的生態(tài)系統(tǒng)釋放養(yǎng)分。?所以現(xiàn)在，我將并排向你展示。?左邊是膠原蛋白，右邊是菌絲體。?我們正在研究微觀結構；?我為你節(jié)省了六年的博士學位。

We're on to something here.?But to pull this off,?we need to do this at the scale of fashion.?We need a lot of mycelium. Not a lab, but a factory.?So that's exactly what we did.

我們在這里做點什么。?但要做到這一點，?我們需要在時尚的規(guī)模上做到這一點。?我們需要大量的菌絲體。不是實驗室，而是工廠。?這正是我們所做的。

So here, what you're seeing is our first factory,?and you're seeing rows and rows of pure mycelium?growing in these trays.?And those mycelium are eating leftover sawdust,?so they're doing what fungi do best in nature --?they eat something nobody wants, and they turn it into something useful.?And instead of growing into the soil,?these mycelium are growing up in these big puffy clouds?that we can easily harvest.?And this is where science has to meet design.?We take that material and turn it into something leatherlike.?It has to be beautiful, has to be functional.And designers need to be able to easily incorporate it?into the world of fashion products.

所以在這里，你看到的是我們的第一家工廠，?你會看到一排排純菌絲體?在這些托盤中生長。?那些菌絲體正在吃剩下的鋸末，?所以它們在做真菌在自然界中最擅長的事情——?它們吃掉沒人想要的東西，然后把它變成有用的東西。?這些菌絲體不是在土壤中生長，而是在這些蓬松的大云中生長?，我們可以很容易地收獲。這就是科學必須滿足設計的地方。我們采用這種材料并將其變成類似皮革的東西。它必須是美麗的，必須是功能性的。設計師需要能夠輕松地將其融入時尚產品的世界。

The first prototypes were none of those things.?But after many thousands of iterations,?we have a material, and we call it Mylo.And Mylo does everything we set out for it.?It's beautiful, it's functional,?but most importantly, it's sustainable.?So when you grow mushrooms,?it takes about a little under one square meter of land?to grow one kilogram of mushrooms.?Contrast that to cows --?takes about 97 square meters of land to grow one kilogram of cow.?And when we're growing Mylo,?we're doing this in high-density vertical agriculture,?and we power it with 100 percent renewable energy.

第一個原型不是那些東西。?但是經過數(shù)千次迭代，?我們有了一種材料，我們稱之為 Mylo。?Mylo 完成了我們?yōu)橹O定的一切。?它很漂亮，很實用，?但最重要的是，它是可持續(xù)的。?所以當你種植蘑菇時，?種植一公斤蘑菇需要大約不到一平方米的土地。?與奶牛相比——種植一公斤奶牛需要大約 97 平方米的土地。當我們種植 Mylo 時，我們在高密度垂直農業(yè)中這樣做，我們使用 100% 可再生能源為其提供動力。

And this is technology.?We're constantly getting better. Contrast that to the cow.?It's about as good as it's going to get,?and the cows really don't like it?when you stack them up in high-density vertical agriculture.

這就是技術。?我們不斷變得更好。與牛形成鮮明對比。?它幾乎和它所能得到的一樣好，?當你把它們堆放在高密度的垂直農業(yè)中時，奶牛真的不喜歡它。

And so the question remains:?How are we going to distribute this material at global scale?to meet the moment??I have bad news for you here.?Historically, it takes decades?for a new material to reach global-scale adoption.?Take spandex, that stretchy fiber.It's in your blue jeans, your yoga pants.?Makes your butt look amazing.?That material was invented in the 1950s,?and it wasn't until the athleisure megatrend 50 years later?that it was truly everywhere on this planet.?And thank you, climate change --?we humans don't have 50 years to wait.?We need to solve this problem.?We need new materials, and we need them now.?And this is where fashion can be transformational.

所以問題仍然存在：?我們將如何在全球范圍內分發(fā)這些材料?以應對這一時刻？?我在這里要告訴你一個壞消息。?從歷史上看，一種新材料需要幾十年?才能在全球范圍內采用。?以氨綸為例，即有彈性的纖維。?它在你的藍色牛仔褲，你的瑜伽褲里。?讓你的臀部看起來很棒。?這種材料是在 1950 年代發(fā)明的，?直到 50 年后運動休閑大趨勢?才真正在這個星球上無處不在。?謝謝你，氣候變化——?我們人類沒有 50 年的等待時間。?我們需要解決這個問題。?我們需要新材料，我們現(xiàn)在就需要它們。?這就是時尚可以變革的地方。

So I went out and constructed what we call the Mylo Consortium.These are fashion brands you know.?Stella McCartney, lululemon, Kering and Adidas.?Normally, fashion brands are renowned for their competitive nature?and their desire for exclusivity.?But I was able to convince these brands?that no one group can solve this problem alone.?And to meet this moment,?it was time to act in collaboration instead of competition.?We did just that.?With the idea that we're going to solve this really big problem really fast.And here's a taste of how they're supporting Mylo.?Lululemon wove Mylo into yoga and wellness accessories.?Celebrity environmentalist Paris Jackson?modeled Mylo in this fashion editorial.?Adidas redesigned the Stan Smith --?it's their most iconic style --?with Mylo.?And Stella McCartney designed the Frayme Mylo handbag,?and debuted it on the Paris runway.?And that little black handbag that you see right there,?that's now part of Stella's commercial collection.?And what that means is that this is not some far-off idea?that's a dream that may one day be real.Mylo's commercially viable today.?We sell it for 30 dollars a square foot.?It's about the price of premium calf leather.

所以我出去建立了我們所謂的 Mylo Consortium。?這些都是你知道的時尚品牌。?Stella McCartney、lululemon、開云和阿迪達斯。通常，時尚品牌以其競爭性質?和對排他性的渴望而聞名。?但我能夠說服這些品牌?，沒有任何一個團體可以單獨解決這個問題。?為了迎接這一時刻，?是時候合作而不是競爭了。?我們就是這樣做的。?我們的想法是，我們將很快解決這個非常大的問題。?以下是他們如何支持 Mylo 的體驗。?Lululemon 將 Mylo 編織成瑜伽和健康配飾。名人環(huán)保主義者巴黎杰克遜?在這篇時尚社論中模仿 Mylo。?阿迪達斯與 Mylo 一起重新設計了 Stan Smith——?這是他們最具標志性的款式。?Stella McCartney 設計了 Frayme Mylo 手袋，并在巴黎 T 臺上首次亮相。你看到的那個黑色小手提包，現(xiàn)在是 Stella 商業(yè)系列的一部分。這意味著這不是一個遙遠的想法，它是一個有朝一日可能成為現(xiàn)實的夢想。Mylo 今天在商業(yè)上是可行的。我們以每平方英尺 30 美元的價格出售。這是關于優(yōu)質小牛皮的價格。

And this -- this is the tipping point.?This is the first tangible proof that the future of fashion?can and will be made with sustainable materials.?And this is our road map.?We went looking to nature for a better alternative to leather,?and we found that mycelium.?It was hiding in plain sight.?And this story, Mylo's story,?is just one small example in a much broader movement.?It's the one I know.?But in the last few years,?countless scientists have joined us?in this journey of a sustainable materials revolution.?And in the coming years,?I think we're going to see amazing advances?that replace all the harmful materials in your closet,?in your home and your car.And my hope is that, by sharing this journey with Mylo,?it can act as a blueprint that these others can follow?to more quickly improve this world for all of us.

而這——這就是轉折點。?這是第一個有形的證據，證明時尚的未來可以并且將會由可持續(xù)材料制成。?這是我們的路線圖。?我們去大自然尋找更好的皮革替代品，?我們發(fā)現(xiàn)了菌絲體。?它藏在了眾目睽睽之下。?而這個故事，Mylo 的故事，?只是更廣泛運動中的一個小例子。?這是我認識的那個。?但在過去幾年中，?無數(shù)科學家加入了我們?的可持續(xù)材料革命之旅。?在接下來的幾年里，?我認為我們會看到驚人的進步?，取代你衣櫥里的所有有害材料，?在你的家里和你的車里。?我希望，通過與 Mylo 分享這段旅程，?它可以作為其他人可以遵循的藍圖，?為我們所有人更快地改善這個世界。

Because in my heart,?I'm still that nerd from the beginning,?and I want to know what else is hiding out there in nature.?I want to know what's the number-one spot?on the best-of playlist from four billion years of evolution.?And the incredible part of all this?is that fashion undoubtedly compounded our sustainability crisis.But fashion has a golden opportunity to lead the charge,?to live with nature, instead of against it.?And now, and in the future,fashion's not just about making yourself beautiful.?It's also about making this planet beautiful and livable for generations.

因為在我心里，?從一開始我還是那個書呆子，?我想知道大自然中還隱藏著什么。?我想知道在 40 億年的演變過程中，最佳播放列表中的第一名是什么。?而這一切令人難以置信的是，時尚無疑加劇了我們的可持續(xù)發(fā)展危機。但時尚有一個千載難逢的機會來引領潮流，與自然共處，而不是反對它。現(xiàn)在和未來，時尚不僅僅是讓自己變得美麗。這也是為了讓這個星球變得美麗宜居，世代相傳。