文章來源：《經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)人》Jul 15th 2023 期 Culture 欄目 Get to the pint

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Does it make more sense to transform a bottle of ketchup into a handbag or a flavour of ice cream??To Anya Hindmarch, a British fashion designer, that is a false?dichotomy.?She has produced a?sequinned?bag based on a bottle of Heinz’s finest and an ice cream boasting “the unmistakable taste of sun-ripened tomatoes”. (At ￡3.50, or $4.53, a scoop, the ice cream is marginally more affordable than the ￡1,195?tote.)

將番茄醬改造成手提包或冰淇淋口味，哪個(gè)更有意義？對(duì)于英國時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師安雅·辛德瑪奇來說，二分法不存在的。她以亨氏頂級(jí)番茄醬瓶為原型設(shè)計(jì)了一款亮片包，還設(shè)計(jì)了一款冰淇淋，塑造成 "陽光下成熟番茄的獨(dú)特味道"。（一勺冰淇淋售價(jià)為 3.50 英鎊，即 4.53 美元，比 1195 英鎊的手提袋稍微實(shí)惠一些。）

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Those left cold by the frozen ketchup at the?couturier’s Ice Cream Project in London can plump for a refreshing pea?sorbet?or an ice cream featuring “mellow?cheddar?cheese with the ‘chunky, crunchy, bite of Branston’”, a?chutney?that has appeared in soggy British sandwiches since 1922.?The more?avant-garde?flavours taste unpleasantly accurate: the Branston-pickle option has a vinegary?tang?that no one really wants in an ice cream.?Far more palatable are the ones based on Coco Pops, a chocolate-flavoured cereal, and lemon curd.

在倫敦的高級(jí)時(shí)裝店 "冰淇淋項(xiàng)目"，那些對(duì)番茄醬味冰淇淋不感興趣的人可以選擇清爽的豌豆冰糕，或者選擇有 "塊狀松脆布蘭斯頓口感“的“醇香切達(dá)奶酪”口味冰淇淋。布蘭斯頓是一種酸辣醬，自1922年起就出現(xiàn)在英國三明治中。前衛(wèi)奇葩的口味令人不快：布蘭斯頓腌菜有一種醋味，沒人會(huì)喜歡這樣的冰淇淋口味?？煽擅灼叮ㄒ环N巧克力味麥片）和檸檬凝醬味的冰淇淋更容易令人接受。

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Ms Hindmarch is not alone in experimenting with unusual flavours.?Heston Blumenthal, a British chef, has long been known for his bacon-and-egg ice cream.?The Alchemist, a two-star Michelin restaurant in Copenhagen, serves pig-blood ice cream (the blood replaces eggs as an?emulsifier).?Van Leeuwen, an American ice-cream company, has flavoured its products with mac and cheese, ranch dressing and pizza.?Nor are such experiments all that new. An ice-cream shop in 18th-century London called The Pineapple was serving Parmesan ice cream.?The urge to innovate seems to be?insatiable.

辛德瑪奇并不是唯一一個(gè)大膽嘗試不同口味的人。英國大廚赫斯頓·布盧門撒爾的培根雞蛋味冰淇淋早已聞名遐邇。哥本哈根米其林二星級(jí)餐廳 The Alchemist 提供豬血冰淇淋（豬血代替雞蛋作為乳化劑）。美國公司Van Leeuwen在冰淇淋里添加奶酪通心粉、牧場(chǎng)沙拉醬和披薩。這樣的嘗試也不是什么新鮮事。18 世紀(jì)倫敦的一家名為 The Pineapple 的冰淇淋店曾供應(yīng)帕爾馬干酪冰淇淋。創(chuàng)新的欲望似乎無止境。

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This may suggest that ice-cream makers need to keep churning out ever-weirder flavours to persuade people to keep slurping.?Yet the charm of ice cream seems to be more fundamental.?It has been made around the world, in places with vastly different culinary styles and histories, underlining the universality of its delightfulness.?From Turkish dondurma to Syrian booza, Italian gelato to Iranian faloodeh, Filipino sorbetes to Indian kulfi, Japanese kakigori, Afghan sheeryakh and Indonesian es puter, some?iteration?of the dessert is made and loved everywhere.

這可能表明，冰淇淋制造商需要不斷推出更古怪的口味來吸引人們繼續(xù)消費(fèi)。然而，冰淇淋的魅力更多體現(xiàn)在本質(zhì)屬性上。冰淇淋世界各地都有，各地的烹飪風(fēng)格和歷史大相徑庭，這凸顯了冰淇淋令人愉悅的普遍性。從土耳其的 dondurma 到敘利亞的 booza，意大利的 gelato 到伊朗的 faloodeh，菲律賓的 sorbetes 到印度的 kulfi，日本的 kakigori，阿富汗的 sheeryakh 和印尼的 es puter，每個(gè)地方都喜歡制作和享用推陳出新的冰淇淋。

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Vanilla, the classic option—and a derisive synonym for boring—is often touted as having universal appeal, writes Rachel Herz in “The Scent of Desire”.?That, she explains, is because vanilla is one of the volatile flavour compounds present in breastmilk, as well as some formulas.

雷切爾·赫茲在《欲望的香味》中寫道，香草是經(jīng)典選擇--也是無聊的同義詞--人們普遍認(rèn)為香草有魅力。她解釋說，這是因?yàn)橄悴菔悄溉楹湍承┡浞侥谭壑械膿]發(fā)性香味化合物之一。

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The pleasure of ice cream is indeed childish. The?chimes?of an ice-cream truck send a ripple of delight through even the iciest heart.?Childish is a term usually used?pejoratively, to describe things that should be put away at the age of maturity.?Perhaps that explains the drive to make ice cream ever more sophisticated.?H?agen-Dazs was among the first ice-cream companies to market the product to adults.

冰淇淋的樂趣充滿了孩子氣。雪糕車的鈴聲讓最冰冷的心也蕩起愉悅的漣漪。"孩子氣"通常是一個(gè)貶義詞，用來形容那些應(yīng)該在成熟的年齡放下的東西。也許這解釋了為什么要不斷提升冰淇淋的復(fù)雜度。哈根達(dá)斯是最早將產(chǎn)品推向成年人市場(chǎng)的冰淇淋公司之一。

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But the best adult desserts are not that far removed from those enjoyed by children.?And the joys of childhood are profound.They win out against innovation, however sophisticated the marketing.?People may come for the Branston-pickle ice cream, but they stay for the Coco Pops.

但成年人喜歡的甜點(diǎn)與兒童喜愛的甜點(diǎn)并沒有太大差別。童年的樂趣是深遠(yuǎn)的。不管創(chuàng)新多么先進(jìn)，營銷多么精細(xì)，童年的樂趣總是勝出。人們可能會(huì)為布蘭斯頓腌菜味冰淇淋而來，但他們會(huì)為可可米片味冰淇淋買單。