作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學者、歷史學家、語言學家和翻譯家，以他關于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂?

上一章

[vii] On aromatics

芳香劑

?Musk is hot and dry by nature. It is suited to those with a moist and cold temperament. It dissolves aching of the head caused by phlegm. It also helps with weakness of the heart, heartburn and dysuria. It is not good for those with a hot temperament.

? ? ?Ambergris is hot by nature and invigorates the brain. It cheers the heart and the stomach. Camphor is moist and cold. It helps with heat diseases of the head and body. In those who take too much of it [476] it causes sleeplessness. It cools the kidneys, reduces the seed and causes incurable diseases of the genital parts.

? ? ?Sandalwood is cold and dry. It helps in heat diseases of the liver, invigorates the liver and cools any disproportionate heat in that organ.

? ? ?Aloeswood is hot and dry. It helps in weakness of the head and stomach, and in excessive cold of the stomach, and in blockage of the liver and urinary system caused by coldness and moistness.

? ? ?Saffron is cold and dry. It is bad for the stomach; it causes pain and heaviness in the head, and is soporific. It cheers the heart.

? ? ?Cloves are hot and dry. They strengthen the stomach and the heart.

? ? ?Nutmeg is hot and dry: it shares the dietary effects of cloves.

? ? ?Attar of roses is cold and moist. It stops pain in the head caused by heat and by excessive drinking, invigorates the heart and helps with dysuria.

? ? ? ? ? 麝香的性質是熱和干的。它適合那些具有濕潤和寒冷氣質的人。它可以化解由痰引起的頭部疼痛。它還有助于治療心臟衰弱、燒心和排尿困難。它不適合性情熱的人。

? ? ? ? ? 龍涎香的性質是熱的，能使大腦活躍起來。它能使心臟和胃部振奮。樟腦是濕潤和寒冷的。它有助于治療頭部和身體的熱病。對于那些服用過多的人[476]，它會導致失眠。它能冷卻腎臟，減少種子，引起生殖器部位的不治之癥。

? ? ? ? ? 檀香是寒冷和干燥的。它有助于治療肝臟的熱病，使肝臟充滿活力，并冷卻該器官中任何不相稱的熱量。

? ? ? ? ? 蘆薈木是熱而干的。它有助于頭部和胃部的虛弱，以及胃部的過度寒冷，以及由寒冷和濕潤引起的肝臟和泌尿系統(tǒng)的堵塞。

? ? ? ? ? 藏紅花是寒冷和干燥的。它對胃不好，會導致頭部疼痛和沉重，并有鎮(zhèn)靜作用。它能使心臟振奮。

? ? ? ? ? 丁香是熱的和干燥的。它們能增強胃部和心臟。

? ? ? ? ? 肉豆蔻是熱的和干的：它與丁香有同樣的飲食效果。

? ? ? ? ? 玫瑰花油是冷的和濕的。它能阻止因熱和過度飲酒而引起的頭部疼痛，使心臟振奮，并有助于治療排尿困難。

[viii] On various kinds of meat

各種肉類

?Meat is more nourishing than any other food and makes the body healthy. Those who eat meat regularly and drink wine regularly should therefore be bled. The meats of different animals vary in their effects.

? ? ?Beef is cold and dry. Veal is moderately hot and moist. Goat is cold and dry: meat of females is better than that of males, while kid is moderately cold and moist. Mutton is hot and moist by nature: one-year-old animals are better, and castrated males the best of these; lamb is particularly moist. Pork is high in moistness and relatively low in heat: this meat produces plenty of moisture in the body and a good deal of phlegm, but its moisture is neutralized if roasted and eaten with pepper or mustard.

? ? ?[477] Wild goat is indigestible and produces black bile. Deer is hot by nature, light, and produces black bile: meat with fat is better. Gazelle is hot and dry, indigestible and not nourishing. Hare is cold and dry by nature, and produces black bile. Bear is cold, not nourishing, indigestible: it causes tremors and weakness in the sinews. Buffalo is cold, indigestible, heavy, not nourishing, and altogether unhealthy: those who eat it frequently develop leprosy, elephantiasis, diseases of black bile and other disgusting illnesses.

? ? ? That of the domestic hen is the best and the lightest of all meats. It produces pure, healthy blood. Chicken is particularly light and digestible, and is suited to those recovering from illness. The meat of older birds is dry by nature. Chicken soup cures coldness in the intestines.

? ? ?Duck has more of the heat and thickness of buffalo meat and produces a great deal of excrement. Crane is particularly indigestible and thick by nature, and produces good blood. Pigeon is hot and dry by nature: the meat of young pigeons is hot, moist and indigestible. The meat of peafowl tends towards coldness: it is light and quickly digested. The meat of small birds is hot and moist: it helps those with a cold temperament.

? ? ? The heads of all animals are thicker and heavier than other parts of the body and particularly nourishing. Brain creates heaviness in the stomach and tends to be emetic: it should be eaten with pepper or mustard. [Bone marrow is sweeter and pleasanter to eat than brain, but it too may be nauseous and emetic. If well-cooked it is nourishing.]' Udders are cold, slow in digestion and very nourishing, suiting those with a hot stomach. [478] Liver is hot, slow in digestion and very nourishing. [Spleen] produces melancholic and unhealthy blood. [Lung is spongy and easily digested, but not nourishing and productive of bad humors. Heart is coarse and indigestible, but, if well cooked, nourishing and not productive of bad humors.] Intestines [also womb and tripe] are cold, indigestible and produce phlegmatic blood.

? ? ?Muscle meat produces blood with little heat: red meat, with no fat, produces light, healthy blood; meat with fat produces moist blood.

? ? ?The extremities of animals are light, quickly digested, and produce thin blood. [Pigs' trotters are the healthiest, followed by snouts, followed by ears. Tongue is spongy and with little blood. Testicles produce bad humors.]

? ? ? ? ? 肉類比其他食物更有營養(yǎng)，它能使身體更健康。因此，那些經常吃肉和經常喝酒的人應定期放血。不同動物的肉在效果上有所不同。

? ? ? ? ? 牛肉是偏寒性干燥的。小牛肉是適度熱性濕潤。山羊是寒性干燥的：雌性的肉比雄性的好，而嫩山羊肉是適度寒性濕潤的。羊肉本質上是濕熱的：一歲的動物更好，閹割過的公羊是最好的；豬肉的濕度也高，但熱度相對較低：這種肉在體內會產生大量的濕氣和痰，但如果烤熟后與胡椒或芥末一起吃，其濕氣就會中和。

? ? ? ? ? [477] 野山羊不易消化，會產生黑色膽汁。鹿肉性熱，味淡，也會產生黑膽汁；有脂肪的肉比較好。羚羊性熱而干，不易消化，沒有營養(yǎng)。野兔肉性寒冷、干燥，會產生黑膽汁。熊是寒性的，沒有營養(yǎng)，難以消化：它會導致神經顫抖和筋骨虛弱。水牛性寒，不易消化，體量雖大，但沒有營養(yǎng)，完全不健康：吃水牛的人經?；悸轱L病、黑膽汁病和其他令人厭惡的疾病。

? ? ? ? ? 家雞的肉是所有肉類中最好的。它能產生純凈、健康的血液。雞肉特別清淡，容易消化，適合病后恢復的人食用。老雞的肉本質上是干燥的。雞湯可以治療腸道內的寒癥。

鴨肉有更多超過水牛肉的熱量，但容易產生大量的排泄物。鶴肉特別不容易消化，性質厚實，能產生良好的血液。鴿子天性燥熱：年輕鴿子的肉是熱的、濕的和難以消化的。鴿子的肉趨向于寒冷：它很輕，而且人進食后消化很快。小鳥的肉是熱的和濕的：它有助于那些性情寒冷的人消化。

? ? ? ? ? 所有動物的頭部都比身體的其他部分厚重，特別有營養(yǎng)。腦部會使胃部產生沉重感，并傾向于催吐：應與胡椒或芥末一起吃。[骨髓比大腦更甜，吃起來更舒服，但它也可能讓人惡心和嘔吐。如果烹調得當，它是有營養(yǎng)的。］ 乳頭是冷的，消化緩慢，非常有營養(yǎng)，適合胃熱的人。[478] 肝臟是熱的，消化緩慢，非常滋補。[脾臟]產生憂郁的和不健康的血液。[肺是海綿狀的，容易消化，但沒有營養(yǎng)，會產生壞情緒。心是粗糙的，不容易消化，但如果烹調得好，則有營養(yǎng)，也不會讓人產生壞情緒。］ 腸子[還有子宮和肚皮]是冷的，難以消化，并易產生痰血。

? ? ? ? ? 肌肉產生的血液沒有什么熱量：紅肉，沒有脂肪，產生輕盈、健康的血液；有脂肪的肉產生濕潤的血液。

? ? ? ? ?動物的四肢很輕，很快被消化，產生稀薄的血液。[豬的蹄子是最健康的，其次是鼻子，然后是耳朵。舌頭是海綿狀的，血液很少。睪丸會產生不良體液。］

（這個血液的“輕薄”或“厚重”是體液理論中的一種說法，寒性或濕性也是如此）

[Fix] On eggs

雞蛋

?Those of domestic hens are the best of all eggs; those of partridges are just as good. All those of ducks and peahens are heavy and indigestible. Those of small birds are hot and lacking in nourishment.

? ? ?Yolk or yellow of egg is moderately hot. The white is cold and indigestible; it helps in roughness of the chest and lungs and is strengthening. Taken with vinegar it stops the bowels.

? ? ? ? ? 家養(yǎng)母雞的雞蛋是所有雞蛋中最好的；鷓鴣的雞蛋也很好。所有鴨子和孔雀的蛋都很重，而且難以消化。小鳥的蛋偏熱性，但缺乏營養(yǎng)。

? ? ? ? ? 雞蛋的蛋黃是適度偏熱。蛋白是冷的，不容易消化；它有助于改善胸部和肺部，并能增強體質。與醋一起服用可使腸道停止蠕動。

[x] On milk

牛奶

Milk is cold and moist, so it thickens the body, and helps in cases of consumption, cough when there is no fever, and burning of the urine. It does not help those with fever or headache or intestinal obstruction. Fresh milk and curds give moisture to the intestines; they help with pain in the head and heat of the stomach. Whey has the power of breaking up obstructions, so it is taken by those who need a medicine to purge the digestive system.

? ? ? Butter is moist and midway between hot and cold. It is suited to those with a rather hot temperament. It alleviates roughness of the chest and [479] helps with pain in the kidneys and burning of the bladder. Young cheese without salt is nourishing and good to eat; it is easy to digest, builds up the flesh, is relatively soothing to the bowels. Other cheeses are all bad, except those made from buttermilk.

? ? ? ? ? 牛奶性涼而濕潤，因此可以使身體變稠，飲用牛奶有助于遏制不發(fā)燒時咳嗽和小便灼熱等癥狀。 它對發(fā)燒、頭痛或腸梗阻的人沒有幫助。 新鮮牛奶和凝乳為腸道提供水分； 它們有助于緩解頭部疼痛和胃部發(fā)熱。 乳清具有分解沉積物的能力，因此需要藥物來清除消化系統(tǒng)的人會服用它。

? ? ? ? ? 黃油是濕潤的，介于冷熱之間。 它適合那些熱性體質的人。 它可以減輕胸部的粗糙度，[479] 有助于緩解腎臟疼痛和膀胱灼熱。沒有加鹽的新鮮奶酪營養(yǎng)豐富，很好吃； 容易消化，可以增肌，對腸胃也比較舒緩。 除了用酪乳制成的奶酪外，其他奶酪都不好。

[xi] On fish

魚

Grey mullet is rather unhealthy in that it customarily feeds on mud; fish from the deep sea would be better; those from lakes even worse, but fish that come from rivers are better again, especially if swift flowing.

? ? ?Oily fish are not so easy to digest. They are poor eating and produce bad humors.

Bass produces rather light blood, as do other fish. Apart from this it is not a bad food.

Red mullet has coarse, friable flesh and for this reason gives more nourishment than other fish, when well cooked. Good are the red mullets that feed in clear water, where there is no weed.

? ? ?Inshore fish offer healthy and easily digested nourishment. Other fish produce poor blood; these produce well-balanced, good blood.

? ? ?The goby is one of the best. Those of sandy shores and rocky headlands are pleasant to the taste; they are easy to digest, to assimilate and to convert to good humors. Those of lakes and of river mouths, or lagoons, are unhealthy, especially if crabs live there. Similarly, all fish from such locations are bad.

? ? ? Coarse-fleshed fish are indigestible, not only in the stomach but also when the food reaches the veins and other parts. Of soft-fleshed fish, the heaviest are the weever, piper, rascasse, grouper and large red mullet.

? ? ? Common to all shellfish is that there is a salty humor in the flesh, and this provokes bowel movement. Some have more of it, some less. Oysters have softer flesh than the rest; all the others are less digestible, and some of them coarse-fleshed. They are best given to those who are wasting nourishment owing to bad humors in the stomach, whether originating there or deriving from the liver. From shellfish comes a great deal of the so-called raw humor. When soft-fleshed shellfish are boiled, much of the salty humor is taken off; the flesh then becomes difficult to excrete and constipating, but drinking the cooking liquor provokes bowel movement. They include oysters, mussels, winkles, cockles and scallops.

? ? ?Crustaceans are also difficult to digest, but nourishing. When boiled - like oysters - they are constipating, and resemble the coarser-fleshed of shellfish. They include lobsters, crabs [karkinoi, pagouroi] including river and sea crabs, crayfish and all other such creatures with a light shell.

? ? ? Soft-bodied seafood is coarse-fleshed and indigestible, but very nourishing when digested. These foods, too, produce a great deal of raw humor. They include octopuses, squid, cuttlefish, curled octopuses and the like.

? ? ?Cartilaginous fish have sweet, soft flesh, which is good for the bowels, digestible and moderately nourishing. Such are electric rays and sting-rays. Skates, rays and monkfish are less digestible, bur more nourishing, than electric rays and sting-rays.

? ? ?There are no other fish in regular use among us except yska [catfish?], tuna. These are all productive of bad humors and excrement. They are to be eaten pickled or salted.

? ? ? ? ? 灰烏魚相當不健康，因為它通常以泥漿為食；來自深海的魚會更好；來自湖泊的魚甚至更糟，但來自河流的魚又更好，特別是水流湍急的河流。

? ? ? ? ? 油性魚不那么容易消化。它們吃起來很差，而且會產生不良的體液。

? ? ? ? ? 鱸魚和其他魚一樣，會產生相當?shù)难?。除此以外，它并不是一種壞的食物。

? ? ? ? ? 紅鯔魚的肉質粗糙易碎，如果烹調得當，比其他魚更有營養(yǎng)。在沒有雜草的清水中覓食的紅烏魚是好的。

? ? ? ? ? 近岸魚提供健康且容易消化的營養(yǎng)。其他魚產生的血液很差，這些魚產生的血液很平衡，很好。

? ? ? ? ? 蝦虎魚是其中的佼佼者。沙岸和巖石岬角的魚味道宜人；它們容易消化、吸收并轉化為良好的體液。湖泊和河口或瀉湖的魚是不健康的，特別是與螃蟹生活在一起的魚。同樣，所有來自這些地方的魚都是不好的。

? ? ? ? ? 粗肉的魚是不能消化的，不僅在胃里，而且當營養(yǎng)物質到達靜脈和其他部位時也是如此。在軟肉魚中，最重的是威化魚、琵琶魚、拉斯卡西魚、石斑魚和大紅烏魚。

? ? ? ? ?所有貝類的共同點是，肉中有一種咸味的新鮮感，這種味道能引起腸道運動。有些有更多的咸味，有些則較少。牡蠣的肉質比其他的軟；其他的貝類都不太容易消化，其中一些肉質較粗。它們包括牡蠣、貽貝、水母、毛蚶和扇貝。牡蠣最適合給那些由于胃部的不良體液而浪費營養(yǎng)的人食用，不管是源自胃部的還是來自肝臟的。貝類中含有大量的所謂生津。當軟肉貝類被煮沸時，許多咸味的腐殖質被去除；然后肉變得難以排泄，但飲用煮沸的酒會引誘腸道運動。

? ? ? ? ?甲殼類動物也很難消化，但有營養(yǎng)。煮熟后--像牡蠣一樣--它們有便秘作用，類似于貝類中較粗的肉質。它們包括龍蝦、螃蟹[karkinoi, pagouroi]，包括河蟹和海蟹、小龍蝦和所有其他有輕殼的此類生物。

? ? ? ? ?軟體海鮮的肉質較粗，不易消化，但消化后非常滋補。這些食物，也會產生大量的原始體驗感。它們包括章魚、烏賊、墨魚、卷曲的章魚等。

? ? ? ? ?軟骨魚的肉質甜美、柔軟，對腸道有好處，容易消化，營養(yǎng)適中。這類魚有電鰩和刺魚。鰩魚、鰩魚和鮟鱇魚比電鰩和刺魚更不容易消化，但營養(yǎng)更豐富。

? ? ? ? ?除了伊斯卡[鯰魚]和金槍魚，我們沒有其他經常食用的魚。這些魚都會產生不良的體液和排泄物。它們應該被腌制或鹽漬后再食用。

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未完待續(xù)！