2018 成為會員

    與冷蕓一起讀書及解讀時尚行業(yè)

課程簡介

繼2017年的時尚讀書會后，我們即將開始2018年的讀書。

時尚從來就不僅僅是關(guān)于穿著與裝扮。時尚既是歷史與社會的一面鏡子，同時也是歷史與社會所塑造的結(jié)果。在本讀書會中，冷蕓將與您一起閱讀并分享20本時尚相關(guān)類的經(jīng)典著作。這些作品都并非就時尚談時尚，而是從社會學、人類學、經(jīng)濟學、文化學、地域與民族學等角度來討論時尚。相信通過這一系列的閱讀，您一定會對時尚有更加深刻的認識！

本系列中所閱讀的基本為英文原版作品。對于可以閱讀英文的讀者，我建議您可以從圖書館、亞馬遜英文書店或者Kindle里購買這些書（本讀書會并不提供書的采購與借閱）。

對于不能閱讀英文的讀者，您可以通過加入讀書會，透過我的中文分享，來了解原本可能你沒有機會了解的時尚世界。

讀書清單將逐步根據(jù)大家的反饋進行更新。目前已確認讀書的清單請見以下閱讀書目。

讀書時間原則上是每2周的周六晚7：30到8：30。所有課程均可無限次數(shù)回放。

請注意，此為讀書分享會，而非任何專業(yè)的培訓課程。讀書會主要還是為了拓展大家的視野，能夠更加深刻地了解時尚及其所帶來的社會、經(jīng)濟與文化現(xiàn)象。

講師介紹

冷蕓，博士，時尚撰稿人、評論人與商業(yè)顧問。2017秋冬季上海時裝周特邀評論員。其合作媒體與知識付費平臺包括《BoF時裝商業(yè)評論》，《周末畫報》、《三聯(lián)生活周刊》、 知乎等。其培訓對象則包括唯品會、赫基（歐時力）、三福百貨、康泰納仕時尚與設(shè)計培訓中心(下屬雜志VOGUE,GQ,悅己等)等。

冷蕓2013-14年獲得由美國政府頒發(fā)的富布萊特(Fulbright)學者獎(該獎項誕生于1946年，為美國最高榮譽的獎項之一。該獎項曾經(jīng)誕生了86位普利策獎獲獎人；及54位諾貝爾獎獲獎人)。 同年冷蕓在紐約帕森斯(Parsons)設(shè)計學院做訪問學者。其研究領(lǐng)域主要為中西時裝體系對比。該體系包括了從設(shè)計教育、到設(shè)計師、零售商、傳媒及消費者的體系形成、歷史發(fā)展及商業(yè)模式等完整的時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)價值鏈系統(tǒng)。冷蕓在服裝業(yè)工作近15年。曾任職于耐克、百麗及利豐集團。

冷蕓主要出版作品有《中國時尚：對話中國服裝設(shè)計師》。《時裝買手實用手冊》（2011年由中國紡織出版社出版，現(xiàn)第2版）是其另一本主要著作。該書上市后在2年內(nèi)即獲得３次印刷，并獲得中國紡織總會頒發(fā)的“2012年優(yōu)秀圖書獎”。

閱讀書目

讀書清單將逐步根據(jù)大家的反饋進行更新。目前已確認讀書的清單見下。

1：《服裝作為物質(zhì)文化》

英文名：Clothing as Material Culture 
by Susanne Küchler (Editor),? Daniel Miller (Editor) 

本書從物質(zhì)文化角度來審視服裝。討論了服裝在不同的地域（非洲、印度、太平洋地區(qū)等）及不同的場景中（飯店、家庭等）如何被人們用來表達它的社會屬性。

2：《時尚的美學經(jīng)濟：服裝與模特兒業(yè)的市場與價值》

英文名：The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion: Markets and Value in Clothing and Modelling (Dress, Body, Culture) 

by Joanne Entwistle (Author)

本書從社會學，通過對百貨商場及模特兒經(jīng)濟公司的案例分析，闡述了時尚是如何利用“美學”來賺取增值價值的。

3：《女人的服飾：服裝中的符號學與社會學》

英文名：The Dress of Women: A Critical Introduction to the Symbolism and Sociology of Clothing 

by Charlotte Perkins Gilman (Author),? Michael R. Hill (Editor),? Mary Jo Deegan (Editor)

此書最早寫于1915年。由著名的女權(quán)社會學家Gilman所著。本書主要探索女性服裝在男權(quán)社會里的象征意義。雖然成書于早期，但是其中的理論即使今日看來也頗有意義。

4：《穿著衣服的社會：服裝、人體與世界的某些意義》

英文名：The Dressed Society: Clothing, the Body and Some Meanings of the World (Published in association with Theory, Culture & Society) 1st Edition 

by Peter Corrigan (Author)

本書主要通過對社會中諸如美妝品的使用、禮物的交換、以及階層、性別及宗教等現(xiàn)象的分析，闡述了服裝是如何塑造了社會，以及社會又如何塑造了服裝。

5：《20世紀的美國服飾》

英文名：20th Century Dress in the United States First Edition 1st Printing Edition 

by Jane Farrell-Beck (Author),? Jean Parsons (Author)

本書所跨越的年代從1898年到2004年。不僅僅呈現(xiàn)了20世紀美國在不同年代所流行的服飾，更是將導致時尚流行背后的社會文化思潮、流行音樂、政治、經(jīng)濟及技術(shù)發(fā)展因素一并展現(xiàn)給讀者。

American dress from 1898 to 2004 and find innovation at every turn. Diversity and complexity are key: far from the fashion stereotypes embodied by popular ideas of "the Twenties" or "the Sixties"-periods noted for their youthful upheaval and influence-we see how every era has its conformists and rebels, from the Arrow Collar Man and the Gibson Girl to flappers, bell-bottom-clad hippies, and Jackie Kennedy. 

Each chapter explores the social, cultural, economic, artistic, and technological themes that shape fashion in both festive and everyday clothing. Changes in retailing and manufacturing are also examined, from the sweatshops of yesterday to the Internet shopping of today. From high fashion to low, glitz to grunge, this vivid and comprehensive book explains what we wear on our backs-and why.

6：《文化與消費：消費品與消費活動的符號性》

英文名：Culture and Consumption: New Approaches to theSymbolic Character of Consumer Goods and Activities

by Grant David McCracken.

This book compiles and integrates highly innovative work aimed at bridging the fields of anthropology and consumer behavior." ―Journal of Consumer Affairs

Grant McCracken has written a provocative book that puts consumerism in its place in Western society―at the centre." ―Report on Business Magazine

The volume will help balance the prevailing cognitive and social psychological cast of consumer research and should stimulate more comprehensive investigation into consumer behavior." ―Journal of Marketing Research

This provocative book takes a refreshing new view of the culture of consumption. McCracken examines the interplay of culture and consumer behavior from the anthropologist's point of view and provides new insights into the way we view ourselves.

7：《文化的產(chǎn)生：媒介與城市藝術(shù)》

英文名：The Production of Culture: Media and the Urban Arts

by Diana Crane

The phrase `production of culture′ is concerned with how the organizations in which culture is produced and disseminated affect the nature of culture itself. Yet there is no clear consensus on what is meant by this phrase. Crane, in reviewing and synthesizing current research, provides a systematic and accessible approach to this complex subject.

She examines the issue on both popular and elite levels. The reader is thus allowed to see how the notion of `production′ changes depending on the size of the audience and the structure of the particular cultural industry.

8：《消費文化與后現(xiàn)代主義》

英文名：Consumer Culture and Postmodernism

by Mike Featherstone.

The First Edition of this contemporary classic can claim to have put ′consumer culture′ on the map, certainly in relation to postmodernism. 

Updated throughout, this expanded new edition includes a fully revised preface that explores the developments in consumer culture since the First Edition. 

Among the most noteworthy areas discussed are the effect of global warming on consumption, the rise of the new rich, changes in the North/South divide and the new diversity of consumer culture. The result is a book that shakes the boundaries of debate, from one of the foremost writers on culture and postmodernism of the present day.

9：《媒介符號學概論》

英文名：Media Semiotics: An Introduction

by Jonathan Bignell 

Media semiotics is a lucid investigation of the critical approach in contemporary media studies. Using examples such as Big Brother and Billy Elliot, Jonathan Bignell steps easily from basic concepts to more complex theories, while devoting chapters to specific media forms. New material in this second edition includes sections on men's style magazines, docusoaps and 'reality TV', digital interactive television, and mobile phone text messaging.

This study begins by explaining the concept of the sign and the ideological roles of media in contemporary culture. The book then scrutinises advertisements, glossy magazines, daily newspapers, TV programmes, recent films and interactive media, with each chapter containing close analyses of particular examples. Key strands in critical theory which are allied to semiotics, such as ideology and psychoanalytic theory are explored. Media semiotics moves on to discuss the challenges to establish semiotic methods posed by audience studies and postmodernism, and considers 'new media', including computer games, the Internet and the World Wide Web.

10：《營銷符號學：品牌標識、戰(zhàn)略及價值》

英文名：Marketing Semiotics: Signs, Strategies, and Brand Value

by Laura R. Oswald (Author)

The book uses structural semiotics, a discipline that extends the laws of structural linguistics to the analysis of verbal, visual, and spatial sign systems, to shed light on the cultural codes and discourse of brands. It proposes that semiotic research should form the cornerstone of brand equity management, since brands rely so heavily on sign systems that contribute to profitability by distinguishing brands from simple commodities, from competitors, and engaging consumers in the brand world.

The book includes dozens of global business cases where semiotics has been used to refocus, reposition, or extend the brand to new products, customers, and markets. Drawing upon twenty years of academic and consulting experience, the book provides actionable direction for steering brands through technological and cultural change, differentiating brands in the competitive environment, and counteracting the natural depletion of brand meaning over time.

11：《從中國品牌文化到國際品牌》

英文名：From Chinese Brand Culture to Global Brands: Insights from aesthetics, fashion and history

by W. Zhiyan (Author),? J. Borgerson (Author),? J. Schroeder (Author)

From Chinese Brand Culture to Global Brands examines branding from the Chinese perspective, and predicts that China's greatest brands are poised for global dominance.

12：《形象的力量：外貌的社會分層》

英文名：The power of looks：Social Stratification of Physical Appearance

by Bonnie Berry

13：《時尚：一種溝通方式》

英文名：Fashion as Communication

by Malcolm Barnard

What kinds of things do fashion and clothing say about us? What does it mean to wear Gap or Gaultier, Milletts or Moschino? Are there any real differences between Hip-Hop style and Punk anti-styles? In this fully revised and updated edition, Malcolm Barnard introduces fashion and clothing as ways of communicating and challenging class, gender, sexual and social identities.

Drawing on a range of theoretical approaches from Barthes and Baudrillard to Marxist, psychoanalytic and feminist theory, Barnard addresses the ambivalent status of fashion in contemporary culture.

14：《克萊普那廣告學教程》

英文名：Kleppner's Advertising Procedure

by Ron Lane (Author),? Karen King (Author)

An all-inclusive introduction to the exciting and dynamic world of advertising.

Kleppner’s Advertising Procedure introduces readers to advertising by providing insight from professionals and recentexamples that highlight the best advertisements and promotional techniques.This text also provides readers with a clear, comprehensive look at the rolespractitioners play from three key perspectives: a firm’s marketing/advertisingdepartment, an ad agency professional, and media executives.

The eighteenth edition reflects how new media has changed advertising.

后期清單將逐步根據(jù)大家的反饋進行更新......

適合人群

設(shè)計師；媒體；買手；教師；以及所有時尚愛好者。

你將獲得

1、收獲20本經(jīng)典著作的閱讀分享；
2、冷蕓個人的行業(yè)觀點分享20次；
3、加入“冷蕓時尚圈”社群，結(jié)交更多志同道合者。

冷蕓時尚圈是個公開的時尚社群，并不僅限讀書會成員加入。但是加入者可以在這個專業(yè)的社群里認識更多的時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)熱愛者。 請加微信“ruizhi-sheng"，并注明”冷蕓時尚圈+姓名+入群理由“。24小時內(nèi)會回復確認。請務必按要求格式加，否則加不上。為了給群友創(chuàng)造有價值的內(nèi)容，本群群規(guī)嚴格，嚴禁入群發(fā)送廣告、紅包、以及任何與時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)不相關(guān)的內(nèi)容。違反者將會被退群，且不可再入！

聽課時間及方式

平臺：千聊live

• 讀書時間原則上是每2周的周六晚7：30到8：30。

• 冷蕓個人行業(yè)觀點分享，2周1次，10分鐘；（與讀書會交替進行）

• 所有課程均可無限次數(shù)回放。

我要報名

特別優(yōu)惠：

現(xiàn)買2套系列課及以上，且一次性消費滿8000元的學員即可享受85折價格。

由于千聊平臺系統(tǒng)不支持這類促銷模式，故請購買者加微信：ruizhi-sheng（千聊報名賬號與加友微信號需一致），付款后將付款憑證交于該微信號，隨后我們會按你所支付的總額退15%的折讓費給課程購買者。

這個消費金額是指扣除銷售代表傭金之后，本直播間實際收到的費用（銷售代表會收15%-30%的傭金，但大家也可以不通過銷售代表直接購買）。

本直播間不砍價，請大家勿再另外咨詢是否有其它優(yōu)惠。

本直播間系列課包括買手課，創(chuàng)業(yè)課，讀書會以及職場禮儀等課程。歡迎大家在本直播間查詢更多課程詳情。

“冷蕓時尚圈”社群入群方式：

冷蕓時尚圈是個公開的時尚社群，并不僅限讀書會成員加入。但是加入者可以在這個專業(yè)的社群里認識更多的時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)熱愛者。 請加微信“ruizhi-sheng"，并注明”冷蕓時尚圈+姓名+入群理由“。24小時內(nèi)會回復確認。

請務必按要求格式加，否則加不上。為了給群友創(chuàng)造有價值的內(nèi)容，本群群規(guī)嚴格，嚴禁入群發(fā)送廣告、紅包、以及任何與時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)不相關(guān)的內(nèi)容。違反者將會被退群，且不可再入！

2018時尚讀書會

關(guān)注微信公眾號冷蕓時尚，目錄下找到，即刻報名哦！

請所有購買課程的親務必仔細閱讀本公告。

“細心”'一個學員能良好吸收課程的基本素養(yǎng)，也是本講師對學員的基本要求。學員不能仔細閱讀或者細致聽課，勢必會影響你所收到的課程服務質(zhì)量。

關(guān)于冷蕓：            

冷蕓，博士，其研究領(lǐng)域主要為中西時裝體系對比。 服裝商業(yè)顧問及時尚評論人。其撰稿媒體包括《周末畫報》，搜狐時尚，及《BoF時裝商業(yè)評論》。其培訓合作企業(yè)則包括唯品會，康泰納仕時尚培訓中心等。2013-14年紐約帕森斯設(shè)計學院(Parsons)訪問學者；美國政府富布萊特獎金(Fulbright Scholarship)獲得者；倫敦時裝學院(London College of Fashion)時裝營銷管理碩士。曾就職于耐克、百麗及利豐集團。所從事的工作包括零售、銷售、運營、產(chǎn)品開發(fā)、商品管理、市場拓展及總經(jīng)理等職務。主要著作《中國時尚：對話中國服裝設(shè)計師》，《時裝買手實用手冊》。            

冷蕓目前也開設(shè)了3個線上課程：買手；新人職業(yè)生涯規(guī)劃；服裝創(chuàng)業(yè)者課堂。更多詳情，可以關(guān)注本人知乎專欄；微信平臺或者博客。          

聯(lián)系方式：            

知乎：冷蕓時尚              

微博：冷蕓時尚              

微信平臺：冷蕓              

值乎：Christine Tsui              

赤兔: 冷蕓              

分答：冷蕓時尚              

喜馬拉雅：冷蕓時尚