Tyrian purple (aka Royal purple or Imperial purple) is a dye extracted from the murex shellfish which was first produced by the Phoenician city of Tyre in the Bronze Age. Its difficulty of manufacture, striking purple to red colour range, and resistance to fading made clothing dyed using Tyrian purple highly desirable and expensive.

? ? ? ? ? 骨螺紫（又稱皇家紫或帝國(guó)紫）是一種從骨螺科貝類中提取的染料，最早是在青銅時(shí)代的腓尼基城市泰爾生產(chǎn)的。它的制造難度、醒目的紫色到紅色的漸變，以及抗褪色能力，使得用骨螺紫染色的衣服非常受歡迎，而且價(jià)格昂貴。

The Phoenicians gained great fame as sellers of purple and exported its manufacture to its colonies, notably Carthage, from where it spread in popularity and was adopted by the Romans as a symbol of imperial authority and status.

? ? ? ? ? 腓尼基人作為泰爾紫染料的銷售商，聲譽(yù)大增，他們將其出口到所屬殖民地——特別是迦太基，骨螺紫就是從那里開始流行起來(lái)的，后來(lái)被羅馬人采納并作為帝國(guó)權(quán)威和地位的象征。

制造工藝

In Phoenician mythology, the discovery of purple was credited to the pet dog of Tyros, the mistress of Tyre's patron god Melqart. One day, while walking along the beach the couple noticed that after biting on a washed up mollusc the dog's mouth was stained purple. Tyros asked for a garment made of the same colour and so began the famous dyeing industry.

? ? ? ? ? 在腓尼基神話中，紫色的發(fā)現(xiàn)歸功于泰爾的守護(hù)神梅爾卡特（梅爾卡斯或梅利卡薩斯）的寵物狗。有一天，這對(duì)夫婦在海灘上散步時(shí)注意到，狗在咬了一只被沖走的軟體動(dòng)物后，狗的嘴被染成了紫色。泰羅斯要求用同樣的顏色制作一件衣服，于是開始出現(xiàn)了后來(lái)著名的染色工藝。

The first historical record of the dye is in texts from Ugarit and Hittite sources, which indicate that the manufacture of Tyrian purple began in the 14th century BCE in the eastern Mediterranean. Cloth dyed with Tyrian purple was a hugely successful export and brought the Phoenicians fame throughout the ancient world. Indeed, some historians (but certainly not all) claim that the very name Phoenicia derives from the Greek word phoinos meaning 'dark red' which refers to the dye and may itself be a translation of the Akkadian word for both Canaan and red, kinahhu. Despite their formidable reputation, the dyers of Tyre did not have a monopoly on the process even in the Late Bronze Age as four Linear B tablets from Knossos indicate that it was manufactured (albeit on a small scale) on Minoan Crete too, which also had a supply of the shellfish in its coastal waters.

? ? ? ? ? 關(guān)于這種染料，最早歷史記錄是在來(lái)自烏加里特和赫梯的文本中，這些文本表明骨螺紫的制造始于公元前14世紀(jì)的地中海東部地區(qū)。用骨螺紫染色的布是一種非常成功的出口產(chǎn)品，為古代世界的腓尼基人帶來(lái)巨大的聲譽(yù)。事實(shí)上，一些歷史學(xué)家（但肯定不是全部）聲稱腓尼基這個(gè)名字來(lái)源于希臘語(yǔ)中的phoinos，意思是 "暗紅色"，指的是這種染料，其本身可能是阿卡德語(yǔ)中迦南和紅色的翻譯，kinahhu。盡管泰爾的染工享有盛譽(yù)，但即使在青銅時(shí)代晚期，他們也沒有壟斷這一工藝，因?yàn)閬?lái)自克諾索斯的四塊線性B文字碑表明，米諾斯克里特島也在生產(chǎn)這種染料（盡管規(guī)模很小），該島的沿海水域也有這種貝類供應(yīng)。

The dye was extracted from the fluid of the Murex trunculus, Purpura lapillus, Helix ianthina, and especially the Murex brandaris shellfish. Living in relatively deep water, these shellfish were caught in baited traps suspended from floats. The dye was then extracted from the glands of thousands of putrefied crushed shellfish left to bake in the sun. The resulting liquid was used to dye cloth fibres in manipulated variations of colours ranging from pink to violet. One can imagine the smell from the process must have been overwhelming and perhaps explains why Sidon's workshop was 14 kilometres south of the city at Sarepta.

? ? ? ? ? 染料是從Murex trunculus、Purpura lapillus、Helix ianthina，特別是Murex brandaris貝類的液體中提取的。這些貝類生活在相對(duì)較深的水中，被懸掛在浮子上的誘餌陷阱捕獲。人們從數(shù)以千計(jì)的腐爛的碎貝類的腺體中提取原料，放在太陽(yáng)下烘烤。由此產(chǎn)生的液體用來(lái)給布匹纖維染色，顏色從粉紅色到紫色不等。可以想象，這個(gè)過(guò)程中產(chǎn)生的氣味一定很刺鼻，也許這解釋了為什么西頓的工場(chǎng)在城市南部14公里處的薩雷普塔。

In his Natural History the Roman writer Pliny the Elder describes how the dye extraction process had by then developed. Taking three days, salt was added to the mash of shellfish glands which was then boiled down in tins. Finally, whole fleeces were dipped into the mixture when the correct hue had been reached. Fibres were dyed before weaving them into clothes and only very rarely would completed garments have been dyed; perhaps very valuable ones might have been redyed.

? ? ? ? ? ?羅馬作家老普林尼在他的《自然史》中描述了當(dāng)時(shí)染料的提取過(guò)程。人們需要三天時(shí)間，將鹽加入貝類腺體的泥漿中，然后在罐子里煮沸。最后，當(dāng)達(dá)到正確的色調(diào)時(shí)，將整匹毛皮浸入混合物中。纖維在織成衣服之前被染色，只有非常少的成衣會(huì)被染色；也許非常有價(jià)值的成衣會(huì)被重新染色。

According to the historian B. Caseau, "10,000 shellfish would produce 1 gram of dyestuff, and that would only dye the hem of a garment in a deep colour" (Bagnall, 5673). These numbers are supported by the quantity of discarded shells which, at Sidon for example, created a mountain 40 metres high. Such figures also explain why the dye was worth more than its weight in gold. In a 301 CE price edict from the reign of Roman emperor Diocletian, we learn that one pound of purple dye cost 150,000 denarii or around three pounds of gold (equal to around $19,000 at the time of writing). A pound of pre-dyed wool would set you back one pound of gold.

? ? ? ? ? 根據(jù)歷史學(xué)家B.Caseau的說(shuō)法，"10,000只貝類可以提取1克染料，而這只能將一件衣服的下擺染成深色"（Bagnall，5673）。這些數(shù)字得到了被丟棄貝殼數(shù)量的支持，例如在西頓，這些貝殼形成了一座40米高的山。這樣的數(shù)字也解釋了為什么染料的價(jià)值超過(guò)其黃金的重量。在公元301年羅馬皇帝戴克里先統(tǒng)治時(shí)期的一份價(jià)格法令中，我們了解到一磅紫色染料需要150,000第納爾或大約三磅黃金（在寫作時(shí)相當(dāng)于大約19,000美元）。一磅預(yù)先染色的羊毛會(huì)讓你付出一磅黃金的代價(jià)。

Such was the demand for Tyrian purple that vast deposits of the shells have been excavated on the outskirts of Sidon and Tyre and the species was all but driven to extinction along the coasts of Phoenicia. The Phoenicians not only exported the dyed cloth but also the process of extracting the dye, as indicated by the shell deposits found at Phoenician colonies across the Mediterranean. Carthage was particularly involved in its manufacture and continued to spread its fame into Roman times and the Byzantine period. In antiquity, besides the Phoenician cities and Carthage, other known manufacturing centres included Rhodes, Lesbos, Motya (Sicily), Kerkouane (North Africa) and various other places in Asia Minor and southern Italy.

? ? ? ? ? 骨螺紫的需求很大，考古學(xué)家們?cè)谖黝D和泰爾的郊區(qū)挖掘出了大量的貝殼礦藏，這種貝類在腓尼基沿海地區(qū)幾乎被趕盡殺絕。腓尼基人不僅出口染布，而且還負(fù)責(zé)提取染料，這一點(diǎn)從地中海各地的腓尼基殖民地發(fā)現(xiàn)的貝殼礦床可以看出。迦太基參與了它的制造，并繼續(xù)將其名聲傳播到羅馬時(shí)代和拜占庭時(shí)期。在古代，除了腓尼基城市和迦太基，其他已知的制造中心包括羅得島、萊斯博斯、莫提亞（西西里島）、凱庫(kù)安（北非）以及小亞細(xì)亞和意大利南部的其他地方。

Tyrian purple was always the finest on the market as the Phoenicians (and through inheritance perhaps also the Carthaginians) not only had access to the raw material but years of experience. They were expert at blending different species of shellfish in certain sequences of the process and adding extra secret ingredients so that only they could produce the most prized colour of all, a rich deep purple which seemed crimson when held to the light. Tyrian purple was also noted for its great durability and lack of fading. As with any luxury product, there were cheaper, if less effective, alternatives to the real thing. Purple could be produced from certain lichens or first dyeing using red (madder) and then overdyeing using blue (woad). The Gauls used whortleberry to die textiles purple, which were, ironically, then made into clothes for slaves.

? ? ? ? ? 骨螺紫總是市場(chǎng)上最好的染料，因?yàn)殡枘峄耍ㄒ苍S還有迦太基人）不僅能獲得原材料，而且有多年的染料提取經(jīng)驗(yàn)。他們擅長(zhǎng)將不同種類的貝類按一定的順序混合在一起，并添加額外的秘密成分，因此只有他們才能提取出最珍貴的顏色——一種深紫色，在光線下顯得深紅。骨螺紫還因其強(qiáng)大的耐久性和不褪色而受到關(guān)注。與任何奢侈品一樣，骨螺紫也有比真品更便宜的替代品，盡管效果較差。紫色可以通過(guò)某些地衣或先用紅色（染色茜草）染色，然后用藍(lán)色（菘藍(lán)）過(guò)度染色來(lái)生產(chǎn)。高盧人使用山桑子將紡織品染成紫色，諷刺的是，這些紡織品后來(lái)被制成了奴隸的衣服。

用? ? ?途

The primary function of Tyrian purple was to dye textiles, especially clothing. The highest quality cloth was known as Dibapha, meaning 'twice dipped' in the purple dye. Because of the time-consuming production process, the huge number of shells required, and striking colour range of finished articles, such dyed textiles were, of course, a luxury item. As a consequence, Tyrian purple became a status symbol representing power, prestige and wealth. The high value of purple cloth is further indicated by its presence on tribute lists alongside other precious goods such as silver and gold which Tyre was obliged to pay to the Assyrian kings in the 9th and 8th centuries BCE. Alexander the Great, too, was said to have come across 5,000 talents in weight of purple cloth at Susa, likely acquired through tribute and kept as a permanent deposit of high value. The still bright colour 180 years after its manufacture did much to enhance the already formidable reputation for the durability of Tyrian purple cloth.

? ? ? ? ? ?骨螺紫的主要功能是為紡織品、特別是服裝染色。最高質(zhì)量的布被稱為Dibapha，意思是在紫色染料中 "浸泡兩次"。由于生產(chǎn)過(guò)程耗時(shí)，需要大量的貝殼，成品的顏色也很醒目，這種染色的紡織品當(dāng)然是一種奢侈品。因此，骨螺紫成為代權(quán)力、威望和財(cái)富的象征。在公元前9世紀(jì)和公元前8世紀(jì)，泰爾必須向亞述國(guó)王繳納金銀等其他貴重物品，紫色布匹的高價(jià)值進(jìn)一步體現(xiàn)在它出現(xiàn)在貢品清單上。據(jù)說(shuō)亞歷山大大帝也曾在蘇薩得到5000磅的紫布，很可能是通過(guò)進(jìn)貢獲得的，并作為高價(jià)值的永久存款保存起來(lái)。這些布匹在制造180年后，它的顏色依然鮮艷，這大大提升了骨螺紫布耐用性方面的聲譽(yù)。

The status-conscious Romans were particularly fond of purple garments and reserved them for the elite only. The imperial family, magistrates and some elites were permitted to wear the toga praetexta which had a purple border, and generals who celebrated a Roman Triumph could wear on their big day the toga picta which was entirely purple with a gold border. In time, the colour purple came to represent the emperor, although it was Julius Caesar who first wore the all-purple toga purpurea. By the 5th century CE purple and silk formed a winning combination, and its production became a state monopoly from the reign of Alexander Severus (222 - 235 CE). Only the emperor could wear these silk garments (kekolumena) or those lucky enough to be given his favour, and no foreigner was permitted to purchase them. Emperors were even depicted wearing Tyrian purple, too, such as the celebrated mosaic portrait of Justinian I in the Basilica of San Vitale, Ravenna. Purple was long associated with the priesthood from Roman times onwards, and it was not until 1464 CE that Pope Paul II ordered the replacement of purple robes with scarlet ones for Church vestments.

? ? ? ? ? 注重身份的羅馬人特別喜歡紫色的服裝，并只有精英階層才能穿戴這種服裝?；适页蓡T、行政官和一些精英被允許穿有紫色邊框的長(zhǎng)袍（toga praetexta），而慶祝羅馬凱旋的將軍們可以在他們的大日子里穿全紫帶金邊的長(zhǎng)袍（toga picta）。隨著時(shí)間的推移，紫色開始成為皇帝的象征，凱撒大帝首先穿上了全紫色的紫錐菊長(zhǎng)袍。到了公元5世紀(jì)，紫色和絲綢形成了一個(gè)成功的組合，從亞歷山大·塞維魯斯?（公元222-235年）開始，骨螺紫成為國(guó)家壟斷染料。只有皇帝才能穿上這些絲綢服裝（kekolumena），或者那些幸運(yùn)地得到皇帝青睞的人，而且不允許外國(guó)人購(gòu)買這些服裝?；实蹅兩踔烈脖幻枥L成穿著骨螺紫衣，例如拉文納圣維塔萊大教堂中著名的查士丁尼一世的馬賽克畫像就是如此。從羅馬時(shí)代開始，紫色長(zhǎng)期與神職人員聯(lián)系在一起，直到公元1464年，教皇保羅二世才下令用大紅色的教會(huì)法衣取代紫色長(zhǎng)袍。

It is thought that such was the symbolism of purple in ancient Rome that even imperial monuments and sarcophagi came to include it in the form of porphyry marble which has a deep and uniform purple colour. Besides textiles, Tyrian purple was sometimes used to dye parchment and several examples of Late Antiquity texts dyed purple survive, such as the Codex Rossano.

? ? ? ? ? 人們認(rèn)為，在古羅馬，紫色的象征意義很大，甚至連帝國(guó)的紀(jì)念碑和石棺都有紫色，其形式為斑巖大理石，具有深而均勻的紫色。除了紡織品之外，骨螺紫有時(shí)也被用來(lái)給羊皮紙染色，還有幾個(gè)晚期古代文本染成紫色的例子，如《羅薩諾法典》。

參考書目：

Aubet, M.E. The Phoenicians and the West. Cambridge University Press, 2001.

Bagnall, R. et al. The Encyclopedia of Ancient History. Wiley-Blackwell, 2012

Cline, E.H. The Oxford Handbook of the Bronze Age Aegean. Oxford University Press, 2012.

Hornblower, S. The Oxford Classical Dictionary. Oxford University Press, 2012.

Hoyos, D. The Carthaginians. Routledge, 2010.

Kenrick, J. Phoenicia. Forgotten Books, 2015.

Miles, R. Carthage Must Be Destroyed. Penguin, 2016.

原文作者：Mark Cartwright

? ? ? ? ? 駐意大利的歷史作家。他的主要興趣包括陶瓷、建筑、世界神話和發(fā)現(xiàn)所有文明的共同思想。他擁有政治哲學(xué)碩士學(xué)位，是《世界歷史百科全書》的出版總監(jiān)。

原文網(wǎng)址：https://www.worldhistory.org/Tyrian_Purple/