作者生平：
????????? 安德魯·達爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學者、歷史學家、語言學家和翻譯家，以他關(guān)于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎，他的第二本書《Dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。
《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版
ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8
本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會圖書館獲得
由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂

Peoples, languages and 'ethnic foods' of Constantinople

君士坦丁堡的民族、語言和“民族食物”

It is easily forgotten to what extent the Byzantine Empire was a multicultural and multilingual state.

????????? 人們很容易忘記拜占庭帝國在多大程度上是一個多元文化和多語言的國家。

In its origin it was the Greek-speaking half of an Empire founded by Latin speakers. Its founding marks the moment when Christianity became the state religion of the Roman Empire. Constantine's mother Helena was Christian and he himself was baptized on his deathbed. All his successors were Christian with the single exception of Julian. Constantinople was thus the capital of a great Christian empire with a magnificent inheritance of pagan literature, art and philosophy.

????????? 它的起源是由講拉丁語和講希臘語各占一半的群體所建立的帝國。它的建立標志著基督教成為羅馬帝國國教。君士坦丁的母親海倫娜是基督徒，他本人在臨終前接受了洗禮。他的所有繼任者都是基督徒，除了朱利安。因此，君士坦丁堡是一個偉大的基督教帝國的首都，擁有豐富的異教文學、藝術(shù)和哲學遺產(chǎn)。

After the division in 286, Latin, though the mother tongue of only a small proportion of the Eastern Empire's subjects, remained for some hundreds of years an official language of administration in the East. Latin, or rather the Romance speech of the Balkans, was still the language of command in the Byzantine army. So we are not surprised to find names of foods that seem to have Latin roots. There is boukellaton (Latin bucellatum), the ring-shaped dry loaf typical of the rations for which the auxiliary armies depended on their commanders. There is phouska (Latin posca), the watery, vinegary wine that was typical of soldiers' drinking in early Byzantine times. There is konditon (Latin conditum), the famous spiced wine aperitif of late Rome and Constantinople. Then there are rodakina, peaches, whose Greek name seems to describe these fruits as 'rosy' (Greek rodos'rose') but actually derives from the old Latin variety name duracina 'clingstone’.

??????????? 在 286 年分裂之后，拉丁語雖然只是東方帝國一小部分臣民的母語，但數(shù)百年來一直是東方的官方行政語言。拉丁語，或者更確切地說是巴爾干地區(qū)的羅曼語，仍然是拜占庭軍隊的指揮語言。因此，我們對發(fā)現(xiàn)似乎有拉丁詞根的食物名稱并不感到驚訝。 有 boukellaton（拉丁文 bucellatum），一種環(huán)形干面包，是輔助軍隊指揮官的典型口糧。有 phouska （拉丁語 posca），一種含水的、帶有醋味的酒，這是拜占庭早期士兵飲用的典型飲品。 有konditon（拉丁語conditum），羅馬晚期和君士坦丁堡著名的五香開胃酒。然后是 rodakina，桃子，其希臘名稱似乎將這些水果描述為“玫瑰色”（希臘語 rodos'rose'），但實際上源自古老的拉丁品種名稱 duracina 'clingstone'。

All the peoples of the Empire were naturally represented in the population of Constantinople. Some of its inhabitants had come from much further afield, as observed in about 1096 by a participant in the First Crusade: 'In this city are Greeks, Bulgarians, Alans, Comans, Pigmaticans, Italians, Venetians, Romanians, Dacians, English, Amalfitans, even Turks; many heathen peoples, Jews and proselytes, Cretans and Arabs and people of all nations come together there."

????????? 君士坦丁堡的人口自然而然地代表了帝國的所有人民。 它的一些居民來自更遠的地方，大約在 1096 年，第一次十字軍東征的參與者觀察到：“在這個城市里有希臘人、保加利亞人、阿蘭人、科曼人、豬人、意大利人、威尼斯人、羅馬尼亞人、達契亞人、英國人、阿馬爾菲人 ，甚至是土耳其人； 許多異教民族，猶太人和改信者，克里特人和阿拉伯人以及各國人民都聚集在那里?！?/span>

Russians were naturally well-represented, for Constantinople was the source of their Christian culture. So Ignatius of 5molensk, member of a party of Russian pilgrims, was able to find homely food and familiar company at the monastery of 5t John the Baptist: 'On the first of July we went to the Monastery of 5t John Prodromus, which means "the Forerunner", and worshipped. The Russians who live there entertained us splendidly.' North Europeans, including English, were also at home in the city, some of them as mercenary troops enrolled in the famous Varangian Guard, others as traders. It was these, we must suppose, who introduced the novel delicacy of rengai 'herrings' to late medieval Constantinople. Arabs and other Muslims had a settled community in Constantinople and achieved freedom of worship by treaty in the course of the twelfth century. Arab historians tell of the day on which Islamic worship was first practised publicly in the city.

????????? The ship brought a preacher, a pulpit, several muezzin and Koran reciters. Their entrance into Constantinople was a day noteworthy in the history of the religion ... The preacher mounted the pulpit and pronounced the liturgical prayer in honour of the Abbasid Caliphate, in presence of all the faithful and of the resident merchants.

????????? 俄羅斯人自然有很好的代表性，因為君士坦丁堡是他們基督教文化的源泉。 因此，摩棱斯克的伊格內(nèi)修斯（Ignatius）是俄羅斯朝圣者團體的成員，能夠在施洗者約翰修道院找到家常食物和熟悉的陪伴：“七月一日，我們?nèi)チ诵薜涝杭s翰普羅德羅姆斯，這意味著” 先行者”，并供奉。 住在那里的俄羅斯人給我們帶來了極好的娛樂。包括英國人在內(nèi)的北歐人也住在這座城市，其中一些人作為雇傭兵加入了著名的瓦蘭吉衛(wèi)隊，其他人則作為商人。我們必須假設(shè)，正是這些人將rengai “鯡魚”的新奇美味引入了中世紀晚期的君士坦丁堡。 阿拉伯人和其他穆斯林在君士坦丁堡有一個定居社區(qū)，并在 12 世紀通過條約實現(xiàn)了禮拜自由。阿拉伯歷史學家講述了伊斯蘭崇拜首次在該市公開進行的那一天。

????????? “這艘船帶來了一位傳教士、一個講壇、幾個宣禮員和古蘭經(jīng)朗誦者。 他們進入君士坦丁堡是宗教歷史上值得注意的一天……傳教士登上講壇并在所有信徒和居民商人面前宣布了禮儀祈禱，以紀念阿拔斯哈里發(fā)。”

The delicacies that came 'from the city of Mosul' were brought by Arab merchants (actually, they came from far to the east of Mosul, but it was at Mosul that they emerged into Byzantine knowledge); they included 'the best kind of cinnamon' according to the eleventh-century dietician Simeon Seth. This may be the earliest reference to the cinnamon of Sri Lanka.

????????? 來自“摩蘇爾城”的美食是由阿拉伯商人帶來的（實際上，它們來自摩蘇爾東部很遠的地方，但他們是在摩蘇爾才進入拜占庭知識的）； 根據(jù) 11 世紀的營養(yǎng)師 Simeon Seth 的說法，它們包括“最好的肉桂”。 這可能是最早提到斯里蘭卡的肉桂。

How much blending of local traditions went into the Byzantine culinary melting-pot? There is plenty of evidence that the blending took place. We shall encounter some fine flavours inherited from early Greece, notably the fish (kephalos 'grey mullet', labrax 'bass' and many others) that were just as important to the gourmets of Constantinople as they had been to those of Athens. We shall find tastes introduced long ago from the early Greek colonies: garos, for example, the fermented fish sauce first encountered as a product of the northern Black Sea coast, later to become ubiquitous in the food repertoire of the Romans, by whom it was more often called liquamen. Some favourite foods indicate by their names that the Romans of the early Empire had brought them into fashion: laktenta 'sucking pigs'; konditon 'spiced wine'. A new focus on Asia Minor, natural consequence of the establishment of Constantinople as Imperial capital, leads to important gastronomic discoveries, such as the gazelle, the 'deer commonly called gazelia' noted by Simeon Seth (On the Properties of Foods p. 33). For the same reason the Black Sea and its great rivers became the sources of new fish specialities with strange northern names, including the sturgeons mourzoulin and berzitikon and their caviar khabiarin.

????????? 拜占庭烹飪大熔爐融合了多少當?shù)貍鹘y(tǒng)？有大量證據(jù)表明這些傳統(tǒng)發(fā)生了混合。我們將遇到一些從早期希臘繼承下來的精美風味，尤其是對君士坦丁堡美食家和雅典美食家一樣重要的魚類（kephalos 'grey mullet'、labrax 'bass' 及其他）。我們會發(fā)現(xiàn)很久以前從早期希臘殖民地引入的口味：例如，發(fā)酵魚露，首先是作為黑海北部海岸的產(chǎn)品出現(xiàn)，后來在羅馬人的食物中無處不在， 更常稱為 liquamen。一些最喜歡的食物的名字表明早期帝國的羅馬人已經(jīng)將它們帶入時尚：laktenta 'sucking pigs'； konditon '五香酒'。對小亞細亞的新關(guān)注是建立君士坦丁堡作為帝國首都的自然結(jié)果，導致了重要的美食發(fā)現(xiàn)，例如瞪羚，Simeon Seth 指出的“通常稱為瞪羚的鹿”。出于同樣的原因，黑海及其大河成為具有奇怪北方名稱的新魚類特產(chǎn)的來源，包括鱘魚 mourzoulin 和 berzitikon 以及它們的魚子醬 khabiarin。

The end result was a massive amount of cultural exchange. The paximadia in Justin 1's knapsack were a standby that was well known Empire-wide, to judge by later derivatives of the name: these extend from Venetian pasimata, Croatian peksimet and Romanian pesmet to Turkish beksemad and Arabic bashmat, baqsimat. The lucanica sausages that early Roman soldiers learnt to appreciate while on campaign in Lucania (southern Italy), in due course inherited by Byzantium from the Roman army, were transmitted in their turn to Bulgaria (lukanka), Greece and Cyprus (loukanika), Spain (longaniza) and eventually even Brazil (linguira).' Several important foods were introduced from the east after Egypt and Syria became Muslim lands, and these new foods naturally have Arabic names: mazizania 'aubergines', nerantzia 'oranges', spanaki 'spinach'. As Arab power expanded, much of Byzantium's eastern trade came under Arab control; hence the Arabic names of foods, especially spices, became well known in later Constantinople, sometimes supplanting the native name, as did nanakhoua for older ammi 'ajowan'. Eastern spices and aromatics that were wholly unknown in the earlier Mediterranean include iasmion 'jasmine' and koubebe 'cubebs'.

????????? 最終的結(jié)果是大量文化的交流。賈斯汀1號背包里的堅果是全帝國都知道的備用品，從后來的名字衍生來判斷:這些衍生詞從威尼斯的 pasimata、克羅地亞的 peksimet 和羅馬尼亞的 pesmet 延伸到土耳其的 beksemad 和阿拉伯的 bashmat、baqsimat。早期羅馬士兵在盧卡尼亞（意大利南部）的戰(zhàn)役中學會品嘗的盧卡尼卡香腸，在適當?shù)臅r候被拜占庭從羅馬軍隊那里繼承下來，依次傳到保加利亞（盧坎卡）、希臘和塞浦路斯（盧卡尼卡）、西班牙（香腸），最終甚至是巴西（linguira）。埃及和敘利亞成為穆斯林國家后，從東方引進了幾種重要的食物，這些新食物自然有阿拉伯名字：mazizania '茄子'、nerantzia '橙子'、spanaki '菠菜'。隨著阿拉伯勢力的擴張，拜占庭東部的大部分貿(mào)易都在阿拉伯人的控制之下。因此，食物的阿拉伯名稱，尤其是香料，在后來的君士坦丁堡變得廣為人知，有時取代了當?shù)孛Q，就像 nanakhoua 為較老的 ammi 'ajowan' 命名的那樣。在早期地中海完全不為人知的東方香料和芳香劑包括 iasmion '茉莉花' 和 koubebe 'cubebs'。

未完待續(xù)（拜占庭印章系列也在持續(xù)更新?。。。?/strong>?